kciuq

"Changed fluids - didn't get much oil out so I'm sure there is some thick oil still in there" with old oil you will need to run your car for atleast 10 to 15 min or op temp so all the old oil can become liquid again.i bought a s130 last year which had the same problem and all i did was change the oil all it did was block up the oil pump screen...some old bloke i know advised me to immediatly put in the old oil and drive it for a while...kinda glad i did otherwise i would have killed the old girl "Started up fairly easy without much help from the gas pedal. Idled a little rough then smoothed out" you shouldnt need to use the gas pedal on startup unless you have carbs,the roughness would have come from the temp sensor/cold start mec...definatly normal "Oil pressure was up around 70, then dropped to around 20 as it idled for a while." by rule of thumbs the oil pressure should be up to 1/3 of gauge at idle and possibly over 2/3 at full noise

i know this dosnt help you much but im in western australia and it took me 10yrs to find 2 1979 280zx 2+2s...the reason being is in these cars i an exempt from australian design rules meaning i can legally modify my vehicle in any way (minus nos) id like...i bought the both of them for 1500 auzzie dollars...one had been converted to a l20 the other a n42...in one rear compartment was 1 and a half entire rebuild kits...one had rusted out the entire left hand chassis rail the other only needed a decent paint job so, i built a good one out of them,i mainly used rb30 parts on the external side of the motor (injectors,fuel regulator,fuelpump,blow by valve etc etc)i or others could not believe how good it ran...everything in the motor was standard and i recieved 2nd place in a rally(i was beaten by a wrx imprezza) what im trying to say is you dont have to spend 5k to build a reasonable car you just need to be somewhat mechanically minded and trial an error(inexpensivly) and even though people told me i was wasting my time on the heap of s#*t when they got in the passengers side of it they got out looking pastier than a white crayon and were dissapointed i wouldnt let them drive it so chin up and have fun doing it lifes only as hard as you make it

hi ...i bought a 280zx it never ran good after it was warm and bad startup. i found that the air bypass valve was knakkered (i could blow thru it easily when disconnected and out of the car )i swapped it with a rb 30 one (which i could only just blow thru ) which helped heaps...(note... the standard 280 bypass valve runs at 60ohms and the rb 30 bpv runs 75ohms but it will do for now) also my cam lobes (on top dead centre ) were a little off (left one (drivers side) slightly lower than the other) i had to put the cam sprocket to position 2 which helped again ( diagnosis... stretched timing chain ) now it ran ok but still sluggish so i checked my fuel filter which seemed to be clean untill i shook it and mud came out so i changed it (the difference between struggling at 5g+ to coasting past 5.5g revz ) so i took no chances and also changed my fuel rail regulator once again more & better performance ...even though ive done all this i cant seem to get my fuel pump to stop running constantly which affects my bcdd (i ran my bcdd line to the black white wire on my fuel pump relay box bcause it ran badly and had no other wire to monitor fuel usage in the harness to the computer ) just a few things in my experiances with my datto ...maybe something here will or might help you with yours

hi its taken me 1 day to change from e30(240zx) to n42(280xz) :burnout:the only thing is im not sure if my computer is from a manual or auto:shock:...these are the numbers on it if anyone can help id it:redface:................................. AII-600 000 ....9316......l28...if anyone can help with a link to kikars aftermarket cpuz (for 5sp g box) it would be greatly appreciated:mrgreen: