hackish

If there is a problem with the EDIS ignitor then maybe it's not giving consistant dwell on the coils. I will attach a scope to it and see what I can find. We mechanically found TDC on the engine via a TIG rod in cylinder1 and via the cam lobe. It is definitely firing way past TDC. Originally I suspected it was about 90-100 degrees too late so I rotated the coils by one. This gave a proper spark at the correct time but it doesn't explain why it does not work as advertised. Car ran well like that but one morning the battery was dead and it wouldn't fire up again. We ended up setting everything back to the way it was before and spent almost an entire day before it ran again. I verified the coil to ignitor wiring and it appears correct. From left to right with the plug on the bottom they are supposed to be A,B,C.

Quick update. I just went through and verified the owner's wiring job. The coils appear to be wired correctly. I'm going to take the coil pack off just to make sure he didn't reverse all the wires on the connector. I also installed a butt connector on the PIP and SAW plugs so I can unplug one of them and force the EDIS into limp mode.

Crank triggered EDIS. To save time here are the relevant ignition settings. I'm not sure where the client got the basemap - the startup fuel and ignition map were completely wrong.

I've been trying to tune a customer's EDIS/MSnS system. He did the engine build and wiring and I've gotten it to start but the engine runs like something that's off a tooth on the cam. I put a timing light on it and found the timing is quite retarded. It's an L28 turbo swapped into an older 240z. So I took the 36 tooth wheel and lined it up as per BRAAPZ's directions - used a rod in cyl1 to find TDC and counted teeth: I left the MS settings at skip 3 teeth and found that -10 timing will allow it to start. The car runs really poorly, backfiring a lot and the revs like it's off by a tooth on the cam. So I hooked up a timing light and despite asking for -18 degrees timing at idle I found cylinder #1 is actually firing somewhere around 30 degrees ATDC. The customer removed the stock timing marks so there is no real way to be exact but I'm wondering what suggestions can be given to solve this problem. I can try unplugging the MS and just blindly adjust the trigger wheel until it shows about 10 degrees BTDC. That's about all I can think of at the moment. thanks -Michael