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355Z

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About 355Z

  • Birthday 05/13/1993

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  1. I'd go with the twins, but I'm partial to turbos.
  2. For those who have asked the exact headers ordered were the C33AP and the heads that are on the car are angle plug Edelbrock Performer RPMs.
  3. Thanks Ricci. This pic is of the drivers side from underneath the vehicle. It shows the header behind the steering shaft; The header primary tube on the left is the one we had to dimple to clear the shaft. The upper right corner of the JTR adaptor also touches the same tube(The bolt head showing behind the steering shaft is the corner in question) Grind a little off of that corner and you will be set. Hope this help those who are looking to put 1 3/4 primary tube headers on their 240-280Zs
  4. They FIT Put my 1 3/4" Sanderson Long tubes in tonight. Minor dimpling on the drivers side to clear the steering shaft, and they barely touch the JTR engine mount. driver side goes in with removal of the shaft. Passenger side goes in with the removal of the engine mount. Collectors come out about half way betwenn the bell housing and the frame rail, just right, and easily clear the floor. Sanderson doesn't say they they fit the 280Z in the add, but they do. They were $405 shipped to my door. I am very happy and the quality is about the same or a little better than the S&S 1 3/4 tubes. Took about 2.5 hours for just the headers and the clearance with a lift. forgot to check spark plug clearance since I run angle plug heads, but I'm sure they will since they advertise that they will clear. Pics to follow.
  5. I'll have to do some modifications then. Ordered them late last Tuesday, were on my door Friday! I'll take some pics and post them. I currently have some S&S 1 3/4 headers, which have to come off and be returned to a previous owner. I'll let everyone know how they fit or whats needed to make them fit.
  6. It's a common magazine comparo. Typically in the 10-15 hp range.
  7. Would the C33 with the 1 3/4 primary tubes fit any worse in your estimation?
  8. Right on. Since I had a Buick turbo in the 80's and thought of GM's Corvair as the first heavily produced turbo car in the US it's funny how the latest generation thinks of turbos as a purely Import phenominom. If they had ever experienced a v8 with a mild amount of boost it would open up a world that they would think of as impossible. Traditional sbc's with turbos are really the way to go if you want drivability, durabilty, price and usable power in a street driver. The attached dyno sheet below is my traditional sbc with a peak of 12 lbs of boost. The turbos are capable of twice that much boost when it's time too turn it up. It also makes more than 500 rwhp at 3500 rpm so it has a little low end grunt too. This run is on methanol, but it also has an E85 and a gasoline tune too. Dip in graph at 90 mph is when the tires started spinning on the rollers. I built an stroker LQ4 (402ci) combination last year with a set of bone stock L92 heads other than Manley valves. It is now in the 9's in a 3750 lb street driven 2000 Camaro. The heads are what does it for the combination. The L92/LS3 heads flow 330 cfm at 0.600 lift out of the box which surpassed a set of prepped SELF racing 23 degree heads that I have on my 427 sbc. Sorry i got off topic! I also believe there is a certain desirability in sticking with the same brand engine as body and the RB26 sure looks right at home in an older Z car!
  9. LS1 and the LS2 are externally the same size and weight.
  10. Personally, if there was no budget I would go with the Nissan combination. The big advantage with the LS series its compact size, It's horsepower per weight, and its availability. The biggest advantage is its broad power curve that only comes with size. Lay over the dyno sheet of an 500 peak horse power LS motor and a 500 peak horsepower motor of half it's size and its obvious which engine will get you there faster.
  11. Ive used the 252H in the past. Made more power and better mileage than the stock cam. It also makes for a good towing camshaft. For a performance car I would go up to a 260H though.
  12. I usually base my powerplant choice on the capability of the drivetrain and suspension/tires, along with the weight of the vehicle. Hence my choice of the 280Z. Light weight, 325 to the ground and a plate on top of that should give me a decent 1/4 mile time with a vehicle that can still handle.
  13. The usual, Make sure your fuel systems is capable of handling the extra power requirements. Pull a couple of degrees of timing out per 100 hp increase. Colder plugs are your friend, especially with high compression and bottle. I keep a self imposed 150 HP limit unless my pistons are forged.
  14. Wow! Amazing that an engine that big can fit it the front of a Z.
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