Jump to content
HybridZ

bigeZ

Members
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    bigE6009
  • MSN
    Spitwod@hotmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dallas, Texas
  • Interests
    Things that go fast.

bigeZ's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. Yes the heater has been bypassed by connecting the 2 hoses that normally go to the heater together. I see how this could be a problem with circulation but there should still be some water flowing threw the radiator, even if its a small amount. I'm not getting any flow at all, nothing comes out of the upper radiator hose when its removed and turned. Is there a correct way to bypass the heater core?? And why would this cause the lower radiator hose to collapse in on it self??? I think something is blocking the water way in between the pump and the exit on the intake. Ive already removed the pump and I'm thinking about shoving a water hose in a couple of the coolant passages and see if there is any blockage.
  2. I still have no water flowing through my motor. Don't know why. I found this hose tucked away in the back of the motor. I assume it’s for bleeding the air out of the system It connects to a T fitting and continues to the back of the block and the other end goes to the large tube next to the thermostat. I tried to bleed the system through the hose by removing the plug but still no flow. Then I poured coolant into the hose until coolant was flowing out of the radiator cap opening. This also resulted in no coolant flow. When I got to the car today I was shocked when I saw the lower radiator hose (the one going into the thermostat) was completely collapsed. The radiator cap was hard to remove because of all the negative pressure. When I did finally get it off the hose expanded and filled with coolant. WEIRD!!! I topped off the radiator again and still no flow. I pulled the upper radiator hose off and cranked the motor over several times with the starter to see if anything would come out and I got nothing. Shouldn’t there be water pumping out of the upper hose??? Pump is new and I tested the thermostat before I installed it. Wobbly thingy up and all. Would having air in the system cause this problem???
  3. I need the ( crank timing pulley plate ). This is what the R33 service manual calles it. The timing gear that is attached to the crank has 2 plates that help hold the timing belt in place. Theres one on the engine side and one on the pulley side. I need the one that goes on the Pully side. Without the plate my car makes a loud humming noise. This is from the timing belt rubing on the lower timeing belt cover. Please, somebody sell me one or tell me where i might be able to find one. Thanks
  4. I have a GFreddy intake on my Rb25det and i cant seem to find the Coolant Air Release Plug. I cant seem to get any collant flowing. Water pump and thermistat are new and good. I think i need to bleed the air out. Could somebody that has the GReady or GFready please let me know how they bleed the collant system Ive read about lifting the front of the car up in the air to bleed it. Does this work?? When i got the motor the intake was already on it. Maybe the hoses are installed incorectly. Does anybody have the GReady paper that showes where the hoses all go.
  5. I could use the one large bolt to hold the top mount onto the C-pillar (like Meph did) but it doesn't sit very well and I don't like it. Does anybody have an extra pair of the correct seat belts that i could buy???
  6. I'm looking for the right seat belts for my car. I own an early 75 280z. The car didn't come with seat belts when I purchesed it. I've pulled some seat belts out of a 77 (I think) from a pick n pull. The upper seat belt mount dosn't seam to line up correctly. The belts were attached to the rear shock towers in the car I removed them from. They looked the same as the ones I've seen in pictures but they don’t seem to work. Here are some pics of what i have. Here is the top mount of the seat belt. Here is the mount on the car. The holes on the seat belt don't line up with the ones on the car. Am i missing a bracket or do i have the wrong seat belts???
  7. Well i did a compression test today and well, it was bad. 6. 89 5. 105 4. 101 3. 110 2. 121 1. ? Didn't do the 1st cylinder because i just didnt care after what i had found in the others. I did it again after squerting a little oil in through the spark plug holes and the compression didnt increase. This leaves me in thinking that piston rings are ok but the valves are not seating corectly ... I got this head off the internet 2 yrs ago and it had been rebuilt. Im sure it wasnt done correctly now. I still have my old head and want to have it rebuilt. Anybody know where i can have my head rebuilt by a compatent mechanic that knows about the L series???? Im located in the DFW area. Off 360 and 183. Right by the airport. Or is there an easier way to fix my valve seating problem without having the head rebuilt??? Drax240z I did go out and buy new plugs but it did nothing. Also i am receiving spark.. "Disconnecting 1 cylinder should make a audible difference, but it's not as severe as you'd think." When i disconect the injector plug or the spark plug wire form the 6th cylinder the motor has no change in idle. But if i remove any of the other cylinders the idle severly worsens. So what else could it be besides a compression leak????? By the way, the motor has 230k miles on it.
  8. Ok so my 83 280zx NA has a very rough idle. I have tried to find out why so i started testing things and im pritty sure it has something to do with the 6th cylinder. 1.. When i disconect the injector plug from the 6th injector nothing changes. Still the exact same rough idle. When i disconect any of my other injectors the idle gets much worse. So maybe the injector is clogged or bad. I Replace the injector and idle is still bad. Maybe the plug wire for the 6th plug is bad, so i disconect the 5th and 6th plugs. Idle now is really bad because the 5th plug is disconected but when i plug in the 6th wire plug into the 5th injector the idle returns to the rough idle that was there before. And then i plug the 5th plug into the 6th injector and i the idle stays rough. Is there any chance i replaced a bad injector with another NEW bad injector?? Or its not an injector problem. 2.. When i disconect the 6th spark plug wire the idle is also the same. When i disconect any of my other plug wire the idle gets much worse. So i think the spark plug is bad. The plug on the 6th cylinder was completely black so i cleaned it with some sand paper. I swap it out for a plug in a diffrent cylinder and start it up. Exact same rough idle. Nothing has changed so im assuming the plugs are not bad. The 6th spark plug wire does have spark. My only guess is that maybe i have a compression problem. Could this cause the problem??? What could possibly be my problem?????????????? If any of you guys disconect your 6th plug wire or injector, does the idle get alot worse????? Anybody have any ideas?
  9. I just did this last week. Make sure the cam sprocket is in the number one hole on the cam it self. Also look through the sprocket and align the sprockets small groove with the small grove on the head. Also if you havent done so already, replace all bolts that will be torqued. I learned the hard way and had many bolts that hold my front cover break off. Not a fun fix.
  10. bigeZ

    Need Heater

    I need the heater unit , ducts and all the plastic that is used for the heater. For a 75 280z.
  11. My 83zx na has a digital dash and I was wondering if the analog speedo cluster would swap in without any modifications? I’ve looked at pics of the backs of both the analog and digital cluster and they appear to be similar. If anybody else has done this swap please let me know if there are any modifications I need to do like cutting wiring or something else. Thanks
  12. My lights are giving me problems also. mine have been stuck on hi for the past year.
  13. I attempted to drill the broken stud out but the drill bit broke off in side the already broken stud. The hole is in the Head. a little higher and to the right of the hole with the broken stud. I didnt run into anything and the hole is prity shallow. I know this was a bad idea but i needed the car to get back to college and i had no time. Ive worked on 60's chevys for 8 of years, im good at taking things apart and putting them back together. is the head in a Z that much harder to remove than that of a 350 chevy. Im keeping it an NA for now. This is my daily driver and the car is in great shape. The only rust is where the spare tire sits. Money isnt a problem. I just dont have much time. I only have about 1 month to do all i can to the car during the summer. So if i have to pull the head off the car i would like to do something to it before it goes back on. This is a street car and i drive it pritty hard so i would like to have a few performance upgrades done to the head. When it comes to cam, valves, springs, etc, i know nothing. There is no smoke comming from the car. It starts and runs great except for the exhaust leak and a bad clutch. Im replacing the clutch and I will do a suspention upgrade right after i get the car back on the road. The brakes, i put new pads, had the rotors spun, fixed all the leaks in the lines not to long ago and they have felt great ever since.
×
×
  • Create New...