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zbloke

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zbloke last won the day on January 18 2020

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  1. Will you have to fit a pre and post butterfly pressure sensor on every runner, so 12 sensors in total, or on just one? so only 2 sensors?
  2. Looks very nice! What's that bracket/adjuster attachment next to the oil pump for?
  3. There is some information you should find helpful in this thread:-
  4. I appreciate that the following isn't the Apex Track Attack system but a fellow Hybridz member built, installed and ran a pushrod/rocker/inboard damper rear suspension on his car some time ago, I don't know if he is still active on here but a search of his past posts might give you some insight into how he fared with his system https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/91914-rocker-arm-rear-suspension/
  5. Books:- Anything relevant to chassis or suspension design by Allan Staniforth or Carroll Smith should give you a pretty good insight If you feel the need to go further then consider Race Car Vehicle Dynamics by Milliken and Milliken
  6. A fine choice if I may say so, you won't be disappointed! I've run one in my Z for a number of years, road use and on track too - can't fault it The OS diff oil is expensive and with the current USD > GBP exchange rate I pay about the same as you have for two litres
  7. I use the 8610-1437's in my car - perfect in my opinion If you haven't already checked out the FAQ section here I recommend you do so, there is a lot of great info in there relating to strut insert installation, getting your desired ride height and sufficient damper travel in both compression and extension
  8. If you go to this website:- https://www.oer-carburetor.site/ And send them an e-mail asking the question they'll reply and send you a picture, with dimensions, of the type of injector you need I have a reply from them somewhere in my inbox with the above information but can't seem to find it.......
  9. Wheels for setting up your car 😉 The items pictured are more like hub stands as they don't resemble wheels It goes something like this - jack car up - wheel off's - bolt hub stand's to hub's in place of wheel's - lower onto corner weight scales/set up patch - give it a good shake to settle the suspension - adjust away to your hearts desire, without having to fight your way around the wheel that's normally in your way
  10. Do the couple of lobes that have lost material look like they've been overheated? if they do are the oil ways partially blocked or could the original hardening depth be thin where the cam was re-profiled?
  11. I might be massively wide of the mark here but, the bit I've highlighted in red combined with the issue you're having would lead me to believe the engine had this bolt coming loose problem before coming into your possession or if the head had recently been worked whoever had done it had overlooked something, the result being the bolt coming loose
  12. If the threads in the end of the cam are trashed I personally wouldn't want to reuse it or even attempt to Helicoil it either Same for the bolt, if its threads are anything like the threads in the end of the cam again I personally wouldn't reuse As for an underlying issue causing the problem, do you know any history of the engine prior to the bolt coming loose? was it a running engine when it came to you? have you completely rebuilt it or part rebuilt it? left it untouched and just got it running?
  13. Can you check to see if the bolt is bottoming out in the camshaft before its actually pulling up against the cam sprocket?
  14. An alternative to a ZXT distributor is this twin Hall sensor distributor from EFI Hardware https://www.efihardware.com/products/1752/distributor-full-sequential-for-Nissan-L-series-6-cyl
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