PandaZ

Would it be possible to make a pull-type clutch, such as the late r33 uses or would that cause a similar problem on the other side of the crank journal?

Tony, was that head still connected to the block, when you weighed it?

If you intend to leave the metal surface exposed, then i can think of three options. 1) Cheap one: Cover the area in veg oil, then use hot soapy water to clean later! 2) Expensive, anal-retentive option: Get a carcoon, which hermetically seals the car from atmosphere & throw in a box of those silica gel packs for good measure! 3) Permanent solution: Use a Zinc block as a sacrificial anode, connected to the cars chassis & body work! (replace the zinc block every several years)

Definately Suede, i have both a leather momo and a suede omp. I much prefer the feel of the suede (both with & without gloves); looks better too. my 2 cents

Hey, just wondering if anyone has any ideas, suggestions, examples on the best & most effective places to gusset & seam/stich an early S30 (late '71)? I was thinking about adding gussets to the chassis rail to firewall area and stitching or spoting the F&R strut towers and chassis rails. (i already have a full cage) Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Well i found an interesting tech article on aerodynamics! May be of some assistance?! Part 1: (intro) http://www.modified.com/tech/0607_sccp_automotive_aerodynamics_part_1/index.html Part 2: (indepth) http://www.modified.com/tech/0610sccp_automotive_aerodynamics_part_2/index.html

Yeah the notch and groove should line up central. When you say spring removed, do you mean the mouse trap? For a standard to mild cam, 0.008" IN & 0.010" EX is the factory settings, (mouse trap on), but for big cams 0.010" IN & 0.012" EX is used. You can cheat if your stuck using a std cam for short distance stuff only (hillclimbs, motorkana...) by using .006" IN & .008" EX. But as Zmanco suggested, use for bearing blue and check the wipe pattern on your rocker pads! Also ive always thought that removing your cam towers is an absolute no no! (I had 80thou off one of my heads once and managed to adjust for it without removing the towers to shim them)

Ok, thanks John, guess i will have to wait a while & seen then.....better start saving now i guess, based on the RB stroker prices. source of information : http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4235.0.html

wow! Sorry, John i should have been more specific, i was wondering about the new L6 3.1L stroker kit. (i already have an RB30, but an OSG stroked 26 would be sweet)

oh dear lord! Heavy drool forming, screen fogging....... lol I am willing to sell my soul for a mere 7.2million yen! Any takers? Well, its not the power or the price, its how amazingly cool & uber rare that item is!!! If i was ever to own one engine, i think that would be it. Most unfortunately, i cant use that head in tarmac rally , but if i ever win the lottery, i will build a car just for that motor. John, so how much is the OS Giken 3.1 stroker kit? (wondering if its comparable to the kameari kit ive been looking at?)

Hey Tony, that 16.2mm (.640") lift cam, whats the duration on that? Is it ground ready to go or is it a blank profile? Im interested in it, as its about the lift i am looking for (maybe a touch more than i wanted being .620" - .630", but very close)! What was the price on that cam & would you be willing to help me out, if its the cam im looking for? As for the handling square lugs, my L4 cams all have those, even my factory billet race cam. Cant remember if my L6 cams do, they are in another shed (dads) so i cant check them easily either.

Yes, needle valves, thats some good work there Matt, missed that post when i was reading through. It was entirely possible there were other problems at play, back then i was tuning by the seat of my pants. I was using bp100 fuel, which may have complicated things for me. The idle and low rpm suffered alittle with the change, with a noticable float rock, loping increase at idle, which tended to cause fouling issues if left idling for too long, but at high rpm in 5th seemed to make a very good improvement. I assumed it was float bowl related due to the engine leaning up (kill plug checks) at max speed and not pulling, then backing off throttle slightly and pushing again increased rpm then fell off shortly after (possible throttle jet assist)?! Well it made an improvement for me, so i took the small victory over the Weber demons! lol Also it was interesting to see the AFR readout of your needle valve experiment, showing what effect it actually had. Thanks.

lol its ok, i have a sense of humor and am fine at laughing at myself, so dig away... yep, i am rather anal retentive at times, it has good & bad points, but im ok with, even if your not.

Wow, very impressive! Thats moving alright! 14.75:1 CR YIKES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (and a few more just for Tony)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! *Just to note: i was in no way attempting to devalue the work that was done in balancing, its very good work. I admire his patience and fortitude in doing so! There is definately something to be gained for all of us from his work. But i was just highlighting some details that needed clarification, by bringing abit of science to the table. Sorry, i am doing analytical chemistry at the moment, affectionatly dubed "anal" chem! lol

So can i put a clutch type lsd into a q45 r200v (6bolt)? I cant use a vlsd in tarmac rally, it must be a clsd. If not i will scrap that idea and just use a GTR r200!