HarrisonTX

Took me about 8 years, but it's in there.

I've been considering an ebay radiator. Hard to beat $140 for a bolt in aluminum rad. I run an ebay Chinese radiator in my malibu with a 406 chevy and have never had issues, and that's here in Texas Any one try one yet? http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROW-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-1970-1975-Aluminum-Radiator-AT-MT-New-1971-1972-73-/261126499728?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item3ccc5a2d90&vxp=mtr

An 8 second street car is pretty damned impressive. You sure put a whoopin on that GTR as well. Good Job.

I know this is a rather tall order, but I'd like a second set of eyes covering this please TILTON 7/8 master has a 3AN out 361-63011732 (jegs) 32' -3AN Straight to 90° (line) Roll pin adapter "640281 Russell late model gm hydraulic clutch fitting" -3AN Duralast 10380 clutch slave. Should be metal (camaro slave) Member "Miles" used these part numbers, and is running a few more AN fittings than me. His roll pin adapter is -4AN and $40, mine is -3AN and $20, and avoiding the use of the -3 to -4 union as well as the -4 swivel. I've read some guys on here running a -4AN line, but the JTR manual calls for a -3AN. I hope that is sufficient line size. What do yall think about my parts list? The camaro slave bolts to the camaro bellhousing. I'm running a standard lakewood. I plan to just fab up a bracket, and weld it to the bellhousing. Should I run the Camaro clutch fork? If so, for what years? I'm concerned the clutch fork wont reach out far enough.

Is this the metal body one? Link shows metal, but says plastic. Centerforce just told me that I need a metal slave to run the PP I want.

Im in waco, about 90 miles north

http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/4803441.htm That will bolt to a 400. I just ordered one, it actually arived today for my ls1 t56

What slave is that? I assume a stock chevy salve that bolts to the bellhousing? I'm running a lake wood, It would be difficult to weld on a bracket and run that same slave that you have.

Hell, I'll take it... It is in fact a one piece rear main, with a passenger side dipstick. With one piece's I believe there were both passenger, and driver side dip sticks. If it's passenger side, and useable like you say, I'll take it. I'm going to PM you now. '

I'm running an M55HV oil pump. I'm worried about sucking the pan dry, and I'm considering a 7 quart pan. The JTR book doesnt mention anything about oil pans. I doubt some kickouts would interfere with the crossmember. What about the block hugger headers? Would those prevent me from running a larger capacity oil pan?

Check for allignment. Also, belts with the cogs on top (rather than the bottom) are harder to throw. Also, once a belt is thrown, it's done (according to Carcraft). Are you continually throwing the same exact belt? Try a fresh belt, with the cogs on top.

http://www.kinneysmufflershop.com/ Hands down. The guy is a total dork, but the work is great.

Incorrect. It's not a Z, but in warm weather I daily drive my '79 malibu with a spool (which is the same as a welded diff [locked axles]). "Timestamp" is just incorrect. It's not only done to drift. Like you say, its a cheap alternative to an LSD. I avoid driving in the rain, and SHARP corners like in a fuel station are annoying, and squeaky, but it's not the end of the world. I cannot speak from experience on the strength issue, but I can tell that on the street its FAR less dangerous than people make it out to be. Many many people speak from absolutely zero first hand expirence, like "timestamp", but rather word of mouth, and 'stories' they heard.

Not smacking your gum a foot away from the camera would be nice.