Mul-ti-pass

A few more.

Yeah I did those myself with my digital calipers. Sorry I don't have any transmissions to measure. On the WRX the bell housing is not bolted on. It's Basically one piece. However the STI at least looks more promising. WRX STI

Measurements are not perfect, but should be accurate to at least two tenth's of a millimeter. I didn't know which numbers you might need so I put them all in. I hope it's not too many. I no longer have a clutch to measure, but the input shaft bearing on the flywheel is about 8.9mm in from the bellhousing mating surface.

I'd love to see this swap happen. Here's your red measurement. Actually this is measured at the inside of the exhaust ports. It wouldn't be much wider with an aftermarket header, but the stock cast iron ones are very thick. Let me know If you need any more numbers.

Can anybody give me some recommendations? I have this crazy motorcycle I'm building. A friend who owns a machine shop said he would do the work at cost if I supplied the Solidworks models. Well surprise, he backed out at the last minute. So now I have thousands of $ in motorcycle parts, a complete 3d model, and no machine shop. So If anybody could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.

Yeah, disconnecting the battery will bring you back to square one. Some cars it takes maybe an hour of driving. Others take days. I have seen cars that were so screwed up they would reset the drive cycle every time the car was shut off, but that would mean all the systems wouldn't be ready.

The only thing that comes to mind is BMW. I know some of their transmissions were separate from the motors. The only problem is, I think they were all shaft drive, not chain. I'll bet a chain conversion would be possible though. I'm actually in a similar predicament with a bike I'm building. I'm using a right angle gearbox from Tandler, and from that a HD type Primary belt drive with a Baker Torquebox RSD transmission. Although right now I'm having a lot of trouble getting info on what belt drive I should use. You could use my method, but there is quite a bit of machine work involved, and quite a few parts vendors with no customer service. Good luck with the project.

A friend of mine tried a similar product, with "octane boosting powers". It smelled suspiciously like moth balls. Which of course will boost you octane, but should be cheaper. Of course good luck getting rid of the smell.

Not perfect but here's the one I use: http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp

Speaking purely as a mechanic. You should expect the truck will need a new idler arm, pitman arm, and maybe lower ball joints. Usually around $800-$900. This is very very common with GM trucks. I've seen them go bad in trucks with as little as 40k miles. If this work hasn't been done recently I suggest you get it checked out by a good suspension mechanic. Other than that you really don't want my opinion on GM trucks. Good luck.

Thanks Rassie. Your bikes are very cool. I look forward to seeing the SV when it's done. I've already started the next project. I think it'll blow this one away, but only time will tell. Hopefully a lot less time.

That's funny Rassie. I just found that website a few weeks ago. It's a very cool site. I didn't think my bike really fit in. They do some really cool stuff with very little work and money. I'd hate to make a first post just showing off, but then what the hell I want the votes. I think I will have to ride it once. The thing that scares me most is Utah drivers are the worst in the country. That and all the attention it will get.

Hey thanks guys. Yeah I was planning on riding it until I put $1600 into the paint. It's a custom mix candy/metallic/pearl orange. I outsourced the paint, and the final welding on the sub frame. Even with lots of insurance I don't think I can ever ride it. Maybe I'll just sell it and put the money toward the next bike. The headlight is from a 06 GSXR 600/750 cut down and modified a lot.

Hey guys. I've been lurking around soaking up the wisdom here at hybridz, but I've only posted a few times. Well now I think I finally have something worth posting. I've been working on this bike for the past couple years, and I just finished it. And hey If you wouldn't mind I'd really appreciate it if you could stop be this website and vote for it. so I can get it into the Utah autorama. http://www.kber.com/Article.asp?id=569190&spid=22375 Before 1987 CBR1000F Hurricane basket case After...A lot of work There are more pics at my photobucket accounthttp://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v210/meatpopsicle/Bike/?start=0

I do a lot of aluminum grinding. I never use a grinding wheel. The best method I've found is to use a cut off wheel to remove the bulk, and then move to a flap disk of about 40 grit for the rest. When sanding softer aluminum such as a 40 series or lower you have to move around a lot or cool the metal often. Flap disks aren't nearly as dangerous as grinding wheels are. I use a 50 series wire which is much harder, and allows me to grind away without it heating up and getting soft. It also has the added benefit of being a better color match for 60 series aluminum sheet.