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  1. Past hour
  2. I had a bearing burn up during a drive on Sunday and it has led to the world's biggest headache. I had to cut the nut off, it sheared off the pin on the washer and jammed it up. So I had to cut that off too which leads to my question. I need to try and repair the threads on the spindle with a die so does anybody know the thread size and diameter?
  3. Today
  4. Working on fitting the air dam/bumper. The Ztrix piece is of course just a fiberglass shell, without much rigidity, so it is going to require a fairly elaborate support structure to be fabbed up to mount and support it. I made two brackets to bolt inside the wheel wells to support both the sides of the fenders and the sides of the air dam. I also included a piece to strengthen the fiberglass headlamp mounting panel, as it was pretty flexible and I don't want the headlights to vibrate excessively. This larger tube structure (it bolts into what I think used to be the OEM bumper mounts....but don't remember for sure) will be the foundation for the rest of the support for the air dam, and I also need to conjure up some structure to support a front splitter. All the tubing I am using for these parts is very thin wall. My hope is that in a minor front end collision the tubes will bend before they transfer damage to the car unibody structure. Not sure it will pan out that way, but that is my hope.
  5. Found a 2004 STI rack on ebay easily but then realized it was RHD.
  6. Start from the beginning. You hear it sparking, but not creating spark on the distributor? The distributor is the first place the spark will jump. Check your distributor cap/rotor. You pulled the plugs, grounded them and tested for visual spark at the plugs themselves? megasquirt is really great for troubleshooting with its test functions.
  7. Continuous beads (stitch welding) is never a good idea on thin sheet metal, exactly for the reasons you mentioned. Distortion being the biggest issue unless the piece you are working on is extremely well constrained, but most of the times it isnt. On longer runs, I usually will place my spots a few inches apart. If I have enough access and the joint permits, I will sometimes clamp on a copper or aluminum backer plate which seems to sink the heat out of the sheet metal sufficiently so as to avoid distortion even in long stitch runs but automotive application rarely has the space for it.
  8. Anyone have any good recommendations for someone to rebuild my l28et in south florida/west palm beach? Thanks in advance
  9. i might have to talk with machine shop about custom hubs sometime. extra 30mm for geometry to take 45ET rims and hub centric desing. Again rear axle gives me headache ce28n 15x6 for integra DC2 racing is 5kg rim.
  10. Sounds like a good plan, with a good shell. We did the Bad Dog rails, which help a lot. Start a build thread, at least we can help if we can see what is going on. I can personally say there is no way I would have attempted the project without this forum. There are guys here who are very helpful and extremely knowledgeable. If there is 'what should I do now' question, search and ask. The 240 probably has a R180 and 24 spline hubs, if leaving them in be very careful, they could be the weak link. Richard.
  11. I was just pulling my 240z out of the driveway and it died. I originally thought I might be low on gas but it turns out I am not getting spark. I connected my computer and it senses rpm. I can test the injectors and even hear the clicking in the cabin when doing a spark test but it's not creating a spark on the distributor. Do you have steps I could follow with a multimeter to figure out the exact issue? MS2 3.0 L28et. Single coil to stock distributor setup. Thanks, Shane
  12. Just bumping this along with the two remaining, lowered priced items... Still for sale are : I have a custom rear bracket set for the Arizona Z Car Wilwood brakes that will allow Wilwood spot parking brakes (120-2374 & 120-2373) to be used. Only have the brackets and had them anodized red to match the rest of the Arizona Z Car parts. I have all the necessary info for completing this = $200 +.shipping... I also have my battery tray removed, blasted, and in epoxy primer with riv nut set up for easy install/ removal = $40 + shipping
  13. I rebuild these as I have cores available.Hard Parts and needed Items are drying up and make this a more pricey trany to go thru now. I can take 3-4 cores to make a good unit. My units are used in restorations as they look as new when finished .Not painted. Steve contacts thru < stevenehlers77@gmail.com >
  14. The Subura rack swap is well documented utilizing 90's and early 2000 Subaru cars here and around web. As donor cars become newer their rack utilize large diameter tie rods thereby needing different compatible tie rods. The swap using most current rack I found was by winstonusmc and has sorted out the parts for larger tie rods I would like to source a 15:1 ratio rack with 2.5 turns lock to lock. The stock S30 rack has 2.6 or 2.7 turn to turn correct? 2004 WRX rack has 16:1 with 3 turns lock to lock I believe. The 2004 STI rack is 15:1 but finding one used is not easy, rare beast. From what I gather all the 2005-2007 WRX and STI cars came with 15:1 rack but they differ slightly in mounts. The 2005-2007 have round mounts while the 2004 older have a round mount on passenger and a square mount on driver's side. This nasioc link states the 2005-2007 racks can be fitted to the 2004 Subaru cars so assuming these racks will work as outlined in winstonusmc swap. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2867695 A saddle can be easily made for the square driver's mount on the S30 to accommodate the round mount on 2005-2007 rack. Seems many Subaru owners are running the newer racks in 2004 and older cars without modifying the square mount. Questionable practice which I'll do my best to avoid. Need to confirmed the threads M16 x 1.5 and overall width of 2005-2007 are identical to 2004 rack. Am I missing anything?
  15. I rebuild these as I have cores available.Hard Parts and needed Items are drying up and make this a more pricey trany to go thru now. I can take 3-4 cores to make a good unit. My units are used in restorations as they look as new when finished .Not painted. Steve contacts thru < stevenehlers77@gmail.com >
  16. I rebuild these as I have cores available.Hard Parts and needed Items are drying up and make this a more pricey trany to go thru now. I can take 3-4 cores to make a good unit. My units are used in restorations as they look as new when finished .Not painted. Steve contacts thru < stevenehlers77@gmail.com >
  17. Thanks for the reply Richard. I ended up spending more on a donor car than i intended. Ended up with a '73 240z. The car has floors and the bad dog frame rails already. A lot was done on the exterior so basically starting with a nice clean slate. Reading over another similar build thread to what I am attempting, shows the GM column probably is a no go. I want to use the cluster from the WS6 so not sure yet how I will attempt the wiring yet. I will keep reading and reading. My budget is already blown, so trying to sell off as many of my old f-body parts as I can. This will definitely not be a quick project.
  18. Bearings, hub, cap, washer, nut, tone ring, and plastic version of the adapter. The aluminum adapter would add some weight over the plastic obviously, but less than a wheel spacer. The studs are also the extra long racing studs, and there is an additional stud.
  19. Yesterday
  20. INTAKE (4 colors Red, Blue, Flat Black , Polished) Anodizing at no extra charge Angled Plenum/Runners: improves air flow smooth transition into head allows easier access to Header/DownPipe for maintenance. Less Heat soak due to reduced heat absorption properties of materials (when compared to stock and other aftermarket manifolds). CNC BILLET Flange with built-in fluted runners to minimize eddy turbulence and promote nearly even cylinder head aspiration at all ports. Gorgeous Fabrication: TIG welded Aluminum Bolts and Fittings included. Vacuum ports: 4 on the top/side to support vacuum-based accessories and accurate MAP readings. Durable Finish FUEL RAIL (5 Colors Black, Polished, Red, Blue, Purple) Fuel Rail designed for 14mm/11mm Or oem Barb style Injectors ORB-8 inlet with 6AN male fitting ends Fuel Pressure/Sensor Port (Plug included) THROTTLE BODY (Will match chosen manifold color by default. (Otherwise message us for different color selection). 90mm Throttle body, Improve throttle response and increase air flow! Cable actuated. Improves throttle feel and smooths pedal feedback. (Plus no more yellow balls and ugly mechanical linkage!) Utilizes stock OEM TPS/240sx or 2jz adapters included! (for modern Engine Management Systems that require potentiometer) Shipped Via Express Tracked and insured. Intake is very well packed with dense foam to ensure perfect delivery. Please view pics
  21. can you turn the rear wheels by hand? If not then the rear drums might be seized to the shoes.
  22. Rear wheels are off the ground and the parking brake line is disconnected at the brake handle....? Am i missing something in the rear on the e-brake..?
  23. Are the rear wheels off the ground and the parking break released?.
  24. Hey guys... I'm trying to remove the driveshaft on my 74' 260Z and the damn thing just won't turn... i have it in neutral and it just won't turn... like something is seized up....? I got 2 of the bolts out but I cannot turn it to get the other 2 out to drop the drive shaft. Any ideas...?
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