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  3. Thanks for the advice. There seems to be enough interest so far from the Aussie guys that I'll get kits made up. Makes sense to sell it in sub-kits and then a discounted full-kit. I'm currently in the process of doing the engineering drawings and then I'll get a few quotes from fab shops to see where the costs land. At this stage, the earliest I think I can get everything done is the middle of next month if there are no issues with manufacturing and fitment.
  4. I’m working in getting a early 260 back on the road and looking to clean up the engine compartment and sort out the seatbelt lock out relays. I’ve read/searched a bunch of posts here and in classic z forum on relay bypass’ and removals and have a few different manuals on the car and still not 100% of where and what all the components looks like. No labels on any of these anymore. Does anyone have a map or overview of where and what all the relays are in the car? I’ve seen one outlining all relays and components for a 280 fuel injection system and it was very helpful.
  5. Yesterday
  6. When it rolls off the ship please post photos, we would love to follow your build.
  7. They are still going and active on their FB site. Search FRP Automotive
  8. People will probably compare what you're offering to the typical piece by piece mods that are done, on the way up to a cage. Here is a thread that covers much of those mods. Might get more response if you break your package up in to sub-kits. More affordable and people can choose between the curvy stuff and the straight line power stuff. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49036-suspension-modification-faq/
  9. Oh, your car has a VqHr? Just build that. It's a great block. Wish I had that motorset. Same block as the VqVhr. Difference is in the crank/stroke. Hr -It has cam timing on Intake and exhaust. Similar to the vqde revup, tho iirc the cam sensors are in the back of the engine? Vhr cam timing and variable lift on intake, no variable exhaust timing iirc. You would need an entire vhr engine, harness and ecu, *maybe* cluster?, *Maybe* auto trans computer? Trying to think of all the things on the can-bus. The bolt pattern for the trans is the same on the hr/vhr, so it should work. The two *maybes* are idk if nissan can-bus systems check for serial#s in the different components. I think the hr trans and cluster will work if the Nats is removed, but that's a question for a tuner. Tbh if I had an HR I'd happily build that. If you want the extra displacement, swap the crank/rods/pistons out of the vhr into the vqhr
  10. @rturbo 930 It's a shame their website doesn't work. With the lack of s30 chassis these days I would be super interested in a fiberglass one. *Edited for my crappy typing*
  11. Hi All, I am JC, I currently live in Paris area (France), and after lots of japanese cars I had (S13, Civic, Corolla TS, GT86, EX37), I am currently buying an imported '78 280Z. Project is subject for full restoration, and maybe engine swap, as I currently have one in hands Although L28 seems to be a good base, so it is under consideration. Nice to find such a board See you all around!
  12. Hey guys, I've been a long time lurker but just seeing if there would be any interest for a weld-in chassis strengthening kit. I couldn't find anything on the market, so I decided to make one myself. I'm located in Sydney, Australia and will happily ship these kits overseas if there is enough interest. To register your interest (no commitment or deposit required) just follow the group-buy format of e.g. 1. sabiauto 2. ... At the moment this is just to see if there is enough interest for me to mass produce it. This will be developed by myself, an ex-automotive engineer (I'm now in software of all places) and one of my ex-managers who is an ex-Prodrive rally engineer and ex-Holden engineer. The main priority for this kit is to: (i) Prevent cracks, tears and fatigue without loading up other areas (ii) Strengthen front and rear strut regions to retain car geometry (iii) Strengthen the floorpan and the tunnel. Naturally the tunnel will provide most of the cars mid-section strength, but we think it can be better tied in than just spot welded around the footwell. (iv) Maintain an OEM appearance after applying seam sealer. Anyone with a Z will know it's different, but otherwise it appears to be stock. Without a CAD model for the car, we cannot complete proper FEA modelling so in terms of how much hp or torque the chassis can support, it'll be up in the air. However in the past we've designed and engineered (for internal prototyping) engine swap and reinforcing kits to test different engine combinations in different chassis' for OEM manufacturers and we're also quite fond of the S2000 chassis as a benchmark design. If there is enough demand, I'll properly get it sorted with engineering drawings and work with a fab shop so each kit is toleranced, tested with a few Zs before mass production, professionally cut, bent and primed. Price-wise it will probably be in the range of $3000 AUD for a full kit. I have some light demand from a handful of fellow Aussies but we don't have that many Zs here. I spent a few hours inspecting the Z shell and it's probably going to end up as a 32-pc full kit. I've mocked out which areas I'd like to strengthen and did some calcs + impact considerations. This is not a replacement kit for a full roll-cage though, I am primarily looking to update the 240z chassis and ensure that it can adequately handle more power with spot welds popping off, chassis flexing, twisting and fatiguing. It will include: - 10 x square angle gussets (street: 8pc, performance: 10pc) - 4 x flat plates (street: 4pc, performance: 4pc) - 9 x rails / rail extensions (street: 6pc, performance: 9pc) - 6 x reinforcing structures (street: 2pc, performance: 6pc) - 2 x full sill length tubes (optional + performance only, this can only be installed if you have the outer sills removed) - 1x underbody butterfly brace (optional + performance only, bolt on part but requires you to drill through your floors) I'll probably make 2 kits with 2 optional extras: (a) Street kit (20-pc kit) (b) Performance kit (29-pc kit) (c) Options - 2x full sill length tubes - 1x underbody butterfly brace It will be something along the lines of this (NOTE: these are random photos we took off the internet of a kit for a mustang I think and an S2000 diagram as a guide);
  13. So close... So tired... Will post up some pictures when I'm mostly done and the seats are ready to go back in. Doors are already so much better, but hopefully it also helps with the large flat areas that Lizard Skin didn't quite do enough for
  14. Removing them as an included item would be an interesting decision. If it's this difficult for a company ordering a large batch to get a supplier to do them correctly, imagine how difficult it would be for a single set? I think having to source your own custom axles would turn a lot of people off from the kit.
  15. I think the rear would look a lot better if there weren't two different colors on yh4 hatch. The black roof stopping before it gets to the taillights creates kind of a "shelf" effect that detracts from fastbacl design. IMO either paint it all one color, or carry the black all the way through the bottom of the hatch.
  16. Last week
  17. Larry, l just sent you a private message.
  18. Hi Joe, just weighed the box at 6.16LB, and running the numbers on the UPS website estimates $15.50 to zip code 55127. This is UPS ground service, the least costly. Larry
  19. My son and I were talking about a project to do together. My friend Larry has been racing and building Z cars for many years and his wild enthusiasm was infectious. So we started casually searching for a car. We were looking for a 240, but couldn't be happier about what we found, given all that we've learned in the process. I was looking a Craigslist and there she was. It was a '77 280Z, in Reno. I think the seller was asking $2000. I forwarded the post to my son, who lives in Reno, to see what his reaction would be. He drove over to the buyer's house immediately and looked it over, pretty carefully and called me up. We talked about it and he offered $1500, with no title and the buyer accepted. So we took a leap of faith and purchased our project car. I rented a trailer and drove up the next day, loaded her up and took her back to our shop in Gardnerville, NV. It was apparently all original, with 93k miles, with a sticker on the license plate, from 1993. We did a title search and that was the last issued registration for the car. There were no outstanding liens and we now have the title. The buyer had found it under a tarp, in a parking lot. He was planning to get it running, but it ended up sitting in his garage. We weren't entirely sure how far we were going with it and have ended up on a fantastic journey, much more to come. Here she is, as we found her:
  20. I’ve come to understand that a big difficulty involves exhaust routing. The tranny might fit, but ya gotta fit the pipes too... I’m tackling body work now and will be replacing floor pans soon, so now would be the time to enlarge the tunnel. Just not sure I want to impose on my space to accommodate pipes. Decisions, huh? Why the 6L80? Really just spit-balling the idea. More gears = closer ratios. I’m in the research and ask questions phase. I have an L28/5spd that I can put in it. I figured to go through the L28, with a performance cam and install 3 Webers or an ITB injection system. Giving that some thought, it seems that one might swap an LS (and corresponding tranny) for similar money. I like the fab work and the technical challenges. Just developing a plan!
  21. Not a fan of the roof spoiler. Surprisingly not offended by the rest of it. Pretty impressed actually. I can see the modded ones looking really good.
  22. Bottom line is, everyone will always complain about something. I think for the most part it's a solid car, and the mostly understated styling will prevent it from looking dated too soon. -Twin turbo -RWD -6 spd manual All the sorts of things most people claim they want, bu most of those complaining couldn't afford it anyway.
  23. Thanks Larry. How much would shipping be to 55127? Joe
  24. I've seen a few renders that seem to make the front end work nicely, most dividing up the space, painting the lower section of the bumper black, adding lights, or some combination of the 3. The rear doesn't really bother me, maybe some strategic vinyl, or a different color will make it slot together. Overall, impressed and excited. I think Nissan is moving in a good direction, and I'm excited that they are at least doing SOMETHING!
  25. Just for clarity, and because Dave did me a solid, I broke the old style bumpsteer spacer/short knuckle. There's a machined pocket that I think was the failure point on mine, but that pocket isn't present in the new style parts. Dave did take these back and shipped me a new set of the updated style. I'm still not a fan, since I'd rather not have a failure at all, so I've moved on to the Apex Engineered pieces, which are all steel. I'd love to see someone do a double sheer style mount, since more and more companies are moving to heim style outer tie rods, and with short knuckles and people using bigger wheels, it shouldn't be too much of an issue.
  26. My biggest gripe is the design decision for the 300zx style taillights, on a car, that is doing everything it can to take inspiration from the S30. The hood, headlights, front end, side, rear quarter, almost everything is S30...then someone crammed some 300zx taillights on there because he liked them. To me, that's dumb. Make a modern version of the S30 taillight structure back there and actually have it be a cohesive structure. The front is pretty easy to fix IMO. I'm blow away at how a simple painted line really changes that whole space. But the taillights...that'll take a lot of expensive parts to fix that. I dunno. Maybe it'll grow on me, but right now I'm not a big fan.
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