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  1. Today
  2. Yeah not a big deal on the price. I think I paid $150 for them. Mainly want to sell the $600 Nittos on them. I just want to be able to tell someone what they are.
  3. If the car doesn't already have one, an inertial cutoff switch is a good idea. I have both a manual switch and an automatic inertial cutoff switch in my fuel pump circuitry.
  4. I bought this MC from Amazon, and was completely expecting a piece of junk due to the low price tag. Turns out I was completely wrong, and very pleasantly surprised by the quality of manufacture and materials. All the threads were clean and well-cut. The plastic reservoirs were plenty thick. Installed it with zero leaks on the first try. If you don't like the black plastic caps, you can substitute your own original metal reservoir caps. Haven't had it on the car all that long yet, but it worked great during one very long day of testing at the track. Highly recommend! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PBHLCI?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
  5. Well my kid (it's his car really) told me to leave the pump alone, he doesn't mind the buzz so I'm letting that one be.
  6. I'm running both in my mild SBC. The stock mech pump is fine for street use, but I need the electric pump for any kind of track use. I'm using an Edelbrock pump, 38 gph, 4-7 psi.
  7. Also forgot to add, if I unplug the "T" plug the charge light goes off, but not still not producing anything from the alternator. If I use a jumper wire with one end on the POS terminal of the battery, and the other end touching the top pin on the alternator that the fatter white/ with red stripe wire that goes to the "T" plug, there's a spark, voltage drops, then car shuts off. Assuming that it grounded for some reason. When car is off, battery is at 12.6, when running it drops to 12.3
  8. Yesterday
  9. Hi, I have a 78 s30. Been working on the car recently and noticed the alternator isn't charging the battery, and the red charge light is on w/ the voltage reading about 6 on the stock gauge. When the car is running w/ no accessories on, voltage of the battery is at around 12.2-12.35v. Read through the electrical section of the FSM. With the car running, POS point on tester to battery, and NEG point of tester to the point on the alternator that says BAT, the tester reads 10.35??? This doesn't seem right, A pos and a pos shouldn't read a voltage like that, right? Think the alternator could be grounded out somewhere in the 40+ year old wiring? This alternator is 10 months old.
  10. You can report them to the Better Business Bureau if they are a licensed business. Hybridz used to have some things about Vendors and how they would deal with the bad ones. But the Rules and Guidelines aren't available anymore.
  11. I have an Airtex in hand, probably 30gph, I have no idea if that's enough to supply it under heavy load. I think this is what I have, the numbers sort of match. I can't even remember what I pulled it out of or why anymore. It seems to work fine. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8012s/reviews/
  12. You can calculate the minimum size you need and go from there knowing anything bigger than that is better. https://www.knfilters.com/filter_facts.htm https://streetandcircuit.biz/engine-air-filter-size-calculator-find-correct-size-air-filter-small/
  13. I did receive a refund, thanks to Pay Pal. Not even an apology or explanation from Paulo. People like this shouldn't be allowed to present themselves as vendors. I see people on Facebook requesting parts for their Z cars on Retro-Specs page and I wish there was a way to warn them.
  14. I’ll ask my buddy in Avon
  15. I ordered the AE crossmember unpainted, then just cut off the bases for the stock rack mounts, and welded on a mount to fit the Woodward rack. There are a few pictures of this on page 4 of this thread. The Woodward rack is very easy to make a mount for, basically all you need is a piece of .25" steel plate. I added braces below to stiffen things up, but this was probably overkill. I ordered the Woodward rack in a significantly quicker ratio than the stock Datsun rack, but I also just wanted another option than my stock rack. It was very tired and loose, most of the parts needed to rebuild it are NLA, and I just wanted an aftermarket option rather than trying to deal with 45 year old parts. This has been the case with most of the build....not too much OEM Datsun stuff is left.
  16. I think that Motorsport Auto used to sell their own brand of lowering springs that were blue. Nissan/Datsun springs are black with a colored paint splotch on them. The springs aren't really difficult to change. The 240Z's have enough room to swing the strut out and take the top off, without disconnecting the control arm. Once you get started though you usually find a bunch of other stuff that needs doing.
  17. it is still under tension when unloaded, I will just block it for now, maybe not even lowered at all, just fitted with massive oversize wheels/tires and not cut out enough
  18. Exposed

    S30 Whale Tail

    Thanks for the picture.
  19. This thread is awesome, getting close! Interested to know more on what you ordered from Woodward. Did you modify the AE front crossmember to use that rack or was the single bolt style mounting an AE option?
  20. It looks like it may be an aftermarket spring. If it's loose in the perch when the wheel is off the ground, it's definitely a lowering spring.
  21. Many Z owners have used the 1st gen. Mazda RX7 (80-81) elec. fuel pumps. They are quiet, cheap and avail. at any chain parts store.
  22. The code should be on a paper sticker in the glovebox. I know an adress in the netherlands that cuts perfect keys based on that number but I guess thats not really feasible for you guys. IIRC the code on the key is useless for this ^^ . He is also skilled enough to get the code from a key picture. You could ask nicely maybe. He found out that my key was not actually for my car since its profile didn´t match the paper-glovebox sticker and now all locks work a LOT better. PM for adress
  23. The carter fuel pump is so obnoxiously loud. I think the ZZ4 has a spot for a mechanical pump, was thinking of installing both, switching the electric to use as a primer if needed but leaving it off otherwise. Research says this is doable. Might be a lot of needless work and risk just to shut up the stupid pump. I'm pretty sure a standard mechanical pump at 7psi should supply the juice just fine, could be wrong. Something like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m4685/overview/year/1967/make/chevrolet If the mechanical failed and you resorted to electric and pumped your gas tank into your crankcase, that would be bad.
  24. pulled left rear wheel, this is what I see, so far I just cheated with a couple coil spring blocks, no idea what I'm looking at, it's blue.
  25. 5speed speed sensor that attaches to the tranny???
  26. Yes, in fact I was looking at it yesterday and thinking about advertising or taking to swap meet.
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