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  1. Today
  2. Reserved for Parts Sold Sold - - Radio - Tool Set and Jack - Delete plates, low fuel, and Hazard switch from center console
  3. Re: ride quality. I took my dad for a ride in my Z with 200/250 springs, camber plates, heims jointed fronts and TC rods, and Illuminas on 1 back when he was about 75 or so. His comment: "Seats are comfy!" With respect to camber change, what you're looking for is to keep the tread flat under load. With independent suspension, body roll = camber loss, so with soft springs you might be rolling over more than your static camber can compensate for, and then you roll onto the sidewall of the tire. You need more camber or less roll to keep that contact patch flat. If you have the camber right you should be a little hotter on the inside. Adding caster helps as that will give you more neg camber when the wheel is turned, but you'll have to trim your airdam/fender if you haven't already. You seem like you are already past this stage, but for other people who might stumble in here, you can use a dab of shoe polish running over the edge of the tire onto the sidewall in 3 or 4 spots to see how far you're rolling over onto the sidewall. Inflating the tire more keeps it from flopping over as much but also hurts grip if you do it too much. Better to adjust the camber so that you can run the optimal pressure for your particular tire. You're wrong about the camber going negative when the control arm goes past level. It's when the control arm goes perpendicular to the strut tube that you would actually start to lose camber. This was pointed out to me many years ago by blueovalz, who built a really awesome Z here, then sold it and moved on and no longer posts. You can confirm this with Dan McGrath's post here, in what is IMO the best thread on the whole forum:
  4. I am definitely interested in this car and auction! glad i checked on here to see if it was posted! going to look thru some of your topics and hope its inside my price range!
  5. Yesterday
  6. The time has come to sell my car and I have listed it on Bring A Trailer. The auction is NOW LIVE at the following link: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-88/ Spread the word if you know people who are looking for such a swap.
  7. Well, after talking with WHP their kit does require shorted axles even though the site doesn't specifically say they are required when using their CV conversion flange. I'm going to try and shorten them myself (cutting in the c clip groove further down the splined portion as outlined on this site) - I'm sick of throwing money at these damn axles. If I can get them at least a 1/2" shorter I can increase the track with the RLCA's and should be fine. I'll report back.
  8. Ah, didn't realize you were running adjustable TC rods.....you will want to stay away from the aluminum/delrin camber bushings. They offer no flex at all, as Jon pointed out. Consider replacing the stock rubber bushings with monoball.
  9. Thanks for the great input here. (this reply got long sorry) Im not aiming for max performance at the track, just looking for a little more front grip. No race compound tires some Firestone indyhawk tires. When I checked my tire temps after runs at my last event the outside tire temp was about 4 deg C hotter than the inside. So I'm guessing (maybe wrongly) that I'm not all that far off camber. I would hope by moving the lca up and out slightly I'd get some static camber and because the lca won't go beyond parallel in a turn I will gain/prevent losing camber like my current setup. Im running adjustable t/c rods for as much caster as I can fit in the wheel well. Though I Havn't checked the actual number (I will when I get some time and knowledge how) that should also help with camber Here's my setup currently Spring rate 155F - 155R Sway bar 1 1/8 F - 7/8 R Camber 1.1 deg F - 1.75 R T3 t/c rods Toe 1/32 out F - 1/16 in R Rear LSD 255/40r17 F 275/40r17 R 17x9.5 -12 F and R Shocks are not adjustable and just basic mr2 F/toicko blue R I know my springs are soft and my bars are stiff (came with the car but makes for a pretty smooth highway car). Looking to go down a size to 1 front 5/8 rear. And upping springs to 180 ish. Good to know about the strut tops having a larger hole, I have a lathe at home so turning a spacer is not a problem. What about ride quality VS the rubber? I daily drive my car most days to work in the spring to fall so racing is a small portion or its life. I would think that switching to plates on the front only could cause a little imbalance? Only in the last few months have in started looking suspension geometry beyond toe... Gets confusing sometimes! Thanks everyone
  10. Thanks I'm loving the look but i have to do a little work to the front tub portion that is shallow. Gonna have to cut and fab an inch or two for clearance.
  11. Don't forget the biscuit-style camber plates that EMI used to make, and DP Racing still produces. They offer quite a bit of adjustability and are a bolt-on solution that requires no cutting of the strut tower. The negative camber bump steer spacers offered by T3 are another potential solution; but like adjustable LCAs, may require the use of adjustable outer tie rod ends (depending on whatever other mods you decide to make).
  12. Thank you guys!! ill be sure to read up on that manual and ask on the z forums.
  13. Start with a complete tune-up including a valve adjustment. You can listen to the injectors click by using a screwdriver as a stethoscope. The pointy end touches the injector, the handle lightly pushing on your ear. There's a troubleshooting section in the factory manual that systematically goes through each elec. circuit. Most people reviving an old Bosch EFI have found it very useful. It's available as a download at classiczcars.com.
  14. Try asking over at classiczcars.com. There are a few owners that know all about flat tops and love them. There's a good thread titled "We're bringin' back the Flat Tops".
  15. I might have just the thing for you. I came across this manual about a year ago in preparation to install these carbs on my L28 (I haven't got that far yet, but they're intended as a placeholder until I go standalone). You may find what you need in here. 1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf
  16. Hello, new z member here and first time owner of an s30. I have a stock 74 260z. My issue is that for the life of me i cant find a way to properly tune this thing. These are the Hitachi HBM46w carbs on the L26. Please dont comment telling me to ditch them for the earlier generation carbs. I have no desire to really spend money on carbs, i just want these to run some what properly till i do an rb swap. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  17. There are problems with all of these solutions: Bolt in camber plates won't move enough to get you the neg camber you need for autocrossing (I think you'll find 2 degrees isn't sufficient unless you're running all season tires and not real serious about it). Stickier tires will create more roll which requires more neg camber. Camber bushings with delrin/aluminum don't allow the control arm angle to change, which it HAS to do as the suspension compresses. TC moves in an arc, so the control arm should have some front to back movement available. Some of that might get taken up in TC bushing flex, some in crossmember flex, but it's not ideal. Camber adjustment with these also adjusts bumpsteer. Moving the xmember pivot requires removing the washers that are welded to the xmember, which is tough to do without screwing up the thin xmember metal. Moving them out will gain you some camber, but you can't go too far before you run out of threads on the tie rods. I slotted my xmember and found that moving the pivot up about 7/16" minimized bumpsteer. The old JTR recommendation was up 3/4, out 1/4, which is too high on the bumpsteer for my car, and still not enough neg camber. Longer control arms will have the same problem with the tie rod threads. My suggestion would be a better camber plate like Ground Control or TTT. This will allow enough movement to actually get the camber you want without worrying about the tie rods. The tie rods used to be more of an issue, because one of them is LH thread 14x1.5, which is tough to find taps and dies for when making your own, but now there are several vendors selling aftermarket tie rods. If you get new tie rods with a turnbuckle, that basically doubles the amount you can adjust before you start getting too close to the end, and that frees you up a bit. If you go with replacement tie rods, then my second choice after the good camber plates would be custom LCAs with the heims joint inner, and you can decide to make them longer or move the pivot. Moving the pivot would have the added benefit of being able to adjust the bumpsteer. EDIT TO ADD: if you're worried about the 14mm shaft on the top of the Tokicos in combination with monoball camber plates, Ground control makes bushings to fit them in a 5/8" monoball. I'm sure TTT does the same.
  18. All, I ended up picking up a 1977 datsun 280z yesterday with 63k miles and matching numbers. The rust is not that bad, the floor pan on the driver side has been patched up with rivets. The guy tried to sand the paint and prime it and eventually realized that he couldn't do it. The car kinda runs but doesn't stay on for more then 30 seconds. What to check for ? What should I change to try and make it run ? Oil and oil filter change ? spark plugs ? injectors ? got all the service guide and owner manual downloaded
  19. Description Various interior pieces for sale. All pulled from a 1973 early-model 260 or a 1974 late-model 260. Most in decent physical and operating condition. All prices listed do not include shipping -- I will use the most economical USPS flat rate shipping available. Thanks for looking. - ashtray cover and mounting bracket, two available (note the different configuration on backside): $10 each - ashtrays, two available: $5 each - glovebox door, includes the side-mounted retaining bracket and screws: $15 - cigarette lighters, two available, both in working condition: SOLD - overhead dome lamp, includes bulb, working condition: SOLD - ammeter/fuel gauge, pulled several years ago when converted to voltmeter, unknown working condition: $10 - fresh air side vents, two available, one functions nicely/the other has a broken pull tab for opening/closing vents: $10 for both - center console armrest, spring and latching mechanism in good working condition, one mounting bracket was repaired years ago: SOLD - center air handler for center vents/defroster: free with any purchase - white plastic mounting bracket for dash harness: free with any purchase - small plastic coat hangers (that mount behind drivers and passengers seats), two available: free with any purchase FIRE SALE.....PACKAGE DEAL: $40 total for everything remaining, shipped anywhere in the U.S! $40 for everything, with free shipping!!
  20. The JCI kit is based on the F body shifter location. I used the standard Datsun ground from the battery to the body by the batter location. I guess it could be run to any trough bolted place on the chassis. JMHO. R
  21. Hi all, I am almost ready to start up the LS1 in my 280z for the first time but I need exhaust headers first. I used the mounting kit from JCI but they are out of headers right now and it could be a month until they build some more. I know this is a long shot but does anyone have a pair of JCI exhaust headers they would like to sell? Thanks!
  22. Last week
  23. calZ

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  24. Sorry, I'm an idiot and forgot to include that. Asking price is 15,000.
  25. I want to post my 1jz 280z here for sale. Can't seem to post in for sale sections?
  26. Location: Alexandria, Virginia (Right next to D.C.) For sale: 1977 Datsun 280z with an RB25DET with a Haltech ECU. Custom intercooler and oil cooler. Blow off valve 350z coil packs. Custom fan setup controlled by engine temperature(kick on temperature can be modified in the haltech). refreshed brakes and lowered suspension (KYB struts and Eibach springs). New differential mount, Urethane mustach bushing, rear control arm and differential fluid (80W-90) Nissan OEM Oil Filter Recent synthetic oil change (10W-30) Running at stock boost levels . 300zx (Z31) transmission. Brake light stucks on, but E Brake works just fine. Speedometer/Tachometer and temperature gauge don't work due to engine swap Oil pressure, voltmeter and fuel gauge do work. Little bit of rust on the drivers side fender. typical rust on floor boards. Engine swap done by Wireworks performance in Ft Worth, Texas. Brake refresh and suspension work done by Datsun Spirit in Manassas, Virginia. (All receipts saved) Certainly not perfect, but runs just fine and is a blast to drive. Clean and clear Texas Title in my name. Sorry, no trades. Asking 15,000. Walk around video:
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