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Hi HybridZ universe! Been taking a break from the car for a bit, but starting to get more motivated here. Let's do our quick catch up first. ORP was an interesting event. We had positives, but the issue that wrecked the car in July surfaced it's head again. Turns out the ABS was overpowering the master cylinder seals on the front circuit and causing massive pressure losses. I had more pronounced but less consequential failure out there, but had good data to show what was wrong. I got my hands on some Tilton Type 79 master cylinders, developed specifically for the Audi LeMans teams who were seeing a similar failure in their master cylinders. I also had to upgrade the pedal box as these are bearing mount master cylinders. The plan was to run the car again at PIR, but that event ended up getting canceled, and so the car has sat since September. Slowly getting poked at, and trying to figure out where I wanted things to go. I made some aero mods to the fenders, and have been slowly cleaning up the firewall and some other areas. The big change I'm in the middle of here is with my ECU. I'm ditching the megasquirt and going Haltech. The LS never really ran right on the megasquirt, and when I started seeing some odd stuff starting it up for the first time this year, that was all the impetus I needed to ditch that. It'll be for sale shortly, expect to see it soon. Hoping to get to an event this year with the car, but really not sure when or where. For now, here's where we sit. I put it down on the ground for the first time since August last year.

If you have spark and timing is right it should start on starting fluid and run for a second. Not just a sputter but a solid burst of RPM. Any chance you left a rag in the intake tract? Could there be a blockage somewhere? Are you using a MAP sensor? Have you had a spark plug out and rechecked it? Maybe you're adding too much fuel and gas-fouling the plugs. Those are big injectors. Just some ideas. Get back to the primitive aspects of the engine. Fuel, air, spark.

Yeah, no problem. Ran awesome 3 weeks ago on the stock harness. I added the turbo, 82 zx dizzy, 370cc injectors, new plugs, and megasquirt. I kept the same ignition coil. I did no work internally on the engine. I only removed and replaced surrounding components. I find it weird I'm having so many issues trying to start it. It had no issues whatsoever. That's why I'm so focused on it being my settings for megasquirt. I have rpm signal in tunerstudio, so I'm certain my dizzy install is good. And I also have the CAS trigger wheel to clear signal up. I tested the injectors, and those are all squirting. New plugs are ngk and were marked as gapped for my Z, but I should check those to make sure. Anyone have Chickenman's email? I tried to pm him on here, but he hasn't been on.

It might help to describe more about the engine itself. When did it last run? Have you done any work on the engine? Your focus is on the MS system but maybe it should be on the engine.

Attached is my new tune and a tooth log. I had my injectors set for low impendence, when I have high. Still had no effect. I also made sure my tooth angle (15) matched my timing with a timing light. I checked my spark plugs, and most of them seemed brand new, and some didn't even smell like fuel. Maybe my fuel table is off? I tested the injectors and could hear them all clicking. It doesn't even sputter. DG280zTune.msq 4-22-24 Tooth Log 280z.csv

Not sure where they source theirs, but that's a BRE "Spook" style chin spoiler. You can still get the ducted version from BRE, and multiple other places make a non-ducted version. Here's one https://www.thezstore.com/product/625/bre-style-front-spoiler-fiberglass-70-874-240z-260z

Hello all, Is this a one off front spoiler? Thanks Christian Tried to link to the picture but came to the gallery.........it's the front pic i'm after https://mzrroadsports.co.uk/the-lion-rock-commission/

I cannot start the car, therefore, cannot tune at idle. Today, I looked at my rotor at TDC, it was 180 degrees off. Rotated the shaft and all looks good. I installed my DIYAutoTune trigger wheel and phased the dizzy, setting it at 25 BTDC. Interestingly, I had to turn my dizzy all the way clockwise to get back to my #1 plug mark. I set my settings for ignition as per DIYAutotune's directions. Still no start??? Not even a sputter. I redid one of my tables, so I am attaching my tune, and my tooth log. I have no idea what's preventing it from starting, but it will probably end up being something stupid, as always. EDIT: I also changed the injector settings to match my injectors. I forget exactly what the entries were called, but I have the settings at 30% and 1 ms pulse width. I did get a single sputter with a puff of smoke after changing this. 2024-04-21_13.16.32.csv 280zTurboConversionTune4 21 24.msq

I need to transfer your file into my tuning laptop and see what's going on. BTW. do you guys visit this site? Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA) - Index page There is lot's of information and experts there. Edit: this is beyond my brain. Why don't you past on the MSEXTRA forum.

Long time no see. I am back after a long time because I run MSQ 2 for 4 years now, so I can share some experiences. After sitting on a shelf for 10 years I decided to install it in a Mazda B2200, sorry! Ripped out the carburetor and installed a Mopar TBI. My goal was fuel efficiency. My setup is MSQ2 Ver. 2.2 EFI only. I kept the original electronic ignition. I did some wiring changes on the V2.2 PCB before installing the EFI. How I did ignition timing: 1. installed the dizzy at 0 BTDC (there was a mark on the dizzy) 2. at idle rpm and timing light, adjusted the dizzy to 10 BTDC (vacuum advance disabled) 3. vacuum advance connected, at 2500 RPM ignition advance went to about 35 BTDC. Done But that is for a Mazda 2.2L 4 cyl. engine. The EFI runs without any issues and my fuel efficiency increased to 28 MPG in mixed driving.

How much body work is involved to make that fit?

No, checked my wires and changed my plugs today. I haven't installed that DIY CAS wheel from diyautotune, maybe there's too much noise. Not sure, it's hard to find what the issue might be since I have no idea about TunerStudio settings. I imported tried a few maps from the pinned thread, but none worked. Although, none of them were really set up for the dizzy, single coil setup, so I had to change all the timing and advance stuff for my setup, which very well could be wrong. Should my trigger angle match my timing mark on the engine? I'm a bit confused what that is and what the ignition offset is. I can see my engine is at the timing mark 10 while cranking. I have both my ignition offset and trigger angle at 90 I believe.

Any chance that you have the plug wires installed in backward rotation? That would give proper timing on #1 but the others would be off. Although, I have started an engine with the plug wires that way. It ran terribly. Here's your old thread with the msq file.

I decided to make a new post, as my new issues do not relate to my other topic. 78 280z turbo conversion, 82 dizzy. I have spark. Set the engine to tdc when dizzy was installed, and turned it back to ~55 BTDC. When cranking, timing shows at 10 with timing gun. Car will sputter and wants to start on ether. I think either my timing is wrong, or my fuel settings aren't any good. The timing talk of posts about megasquirt are all confusing. I've read conflicting information about setting the car the TDC, turning it ~55 BTDC, and also setting it at 20 BTDC. Not sure what I'm supposed to do. Trigger angle has been set to 90 degrees, not 65 like the msq says. If you guys could check out my msq and let me know where I'm being an idiot now, I would greatly appreciate it. DG280zTune.msq

Good news, replacing the transistor solved my spark issue. The car wants to start, but is very lean. A new issue I am having is with my AFR's. My AEM 30-0300 gauge is reading at around 15 AFR, meanwhile, in tunerstudio, it reads 19. I have my wideband in tunerstudio set to AEM 30-3xx, but it will not read the same values. Should I change required fuel or my fuel tables to incorporate more fuel, and how should I try to solve my afr issue? I tried inputting custom linear wideband values, and that helped bring down tunerstudio's values, but that is pretty ghetto, and still wasn't synced to my AEM gauge. I have tried both ground the gauge to the ECU ground and it's own ground, same issue. DG280zTune.msq

2eighTZ4me, I have sent you a private message.

I dont want any filler, so I fit each part perfectly with a butt joint, dolly it out where possible, then grind it flat and smooth for an original fit. before any welding I prime all parts on the back side and pinch points with weld-thru primer the arc and inner rocker are new in this picture then the rear of the rocker, putting back the spot welds in the OEM position Some more primer to look super clean and blend in tot he original rocker which was perfect everywhere else Finally fit the outer skin and tig it in small steps so no warping Some more smoothing of the welds and original spotweld locations used Just a small skim coat of filler on the upper weld seem, but making sure to leave all the factory spot welds to show through the paint. Other side is the same, so on to the front fender next

Been busy working on the body of the NA car. Overall in really good original paint condition. But of course the common areas still need to be replaces even in a low mile California car. So I got busy cutting and welding. The KF parts are really nice but I only want to replace as much metal as trulely needed, so instead of just replacing the entire part, I grafted in what I need to keep it as original as possible. Here are some pics of the first dogleg What is hiding inside you ask Surprise cut it all out start fitting rebuilding from the inside out as how it was originally done Blast it all clean and start TIG welding

JLuis - I'd like a set please. How many sets do you have left?

I had some time in the laser today so i decided to make new mounts for my seats😀. More on this later as they have no priority and are" a bit " of neerd warning. As the engine is 6.2 litre why not make it a 620Z😎

converting to electrical power steering for Prius

I have already started and pulled the motor and trans out.

04-16-2024 UPDATE: Took the day and started with getting the Water Temp gauge working.......great feeling, had to dig back though the wiring to find the right wire and test it....really glad it's fixed.....I am noticing since I fixed my gas tank, that it is reading full when I poured 1/2 tank back in it.....and when I turn it off, the gauge doesn't fall completely back to E. I hope it will striaghten itself out once I get it out driving it around and fill it up for another leak test. I repalced the in tank sensor and it was worrking great....hmmmm. I ordered a repalcement clock from Ron at ZClocks. Upgraded to the Quartz and I am having him remove the green light filter, as I am using white LED bulbs. I also received the tires for my new 17" rims that are coming. I went with the Riken Raptor tires 225/245 45ZR17 size. They were on sale at Tire Rack, and they are a ZR rated all season.....I only drive on nice sunny days, but they will work. Less than $100/tire! Free shipping too! I jumped on my rear drum brakes, adjusted them to where the tire spins 1/2 turn or a bit less.....so they're right on, and so far, parking brake looks to be good as well. STRONG pedal feel. I rebuilt them completely a while back, but never did the adjustment...no wonder they didn't work! Torqued the wheels back on and then I noticed all of a sudden a really loud clacking sound while idling. Turns out 2 valves worked loose! All better now. Added some of my Walmart oil.....this is really good oil! Also finally got my Rising Sun stickers, put them right where I want them. Here are some pics. To view Video, click on "Facebook" below and scroll to the end of the pictures. (4) Facebook V1.MOV

VINTAGE CARBON Pre-order Opportunity - NEW S30 CARBON FIBER FRONT GRILL! We have been cooking here at Vintage Carbon! We are going to be coming out with an ALL NEW Carbon Fiber S30 Grill! To our knowledge, this will be the First Ever Carbon Fiber Grill made for the Datsun S30 Platform! We are going to incorporate the Thick Outer Border similar to the Fairlady 432 Style Grille, while keeping the OEM "V" shape and OEM style straight across Slats all made completely of Carbon Fiber!! The slats will be thicker so you can really see the Carbon Weave from the front. We are also going to extend the overall height about 3 inches to make sure it covers as much as possible with a front air dam installed. We are going to ensure the vents are spaced equal to OEM so air flow will not be affected. It will be different from anything out there, more aggressive yet reminiscent of OEM but made of Carbon Fiber right here in So Cal, USA!! These will really add style to any S30 Z Front End!! What do you guys think? We will be accepting pre-orders for a heavy discount off Retail cost for the first 10 people. Contact me if interested! Message me or Email me at andrew@zociety.org ! We are currently working on a high quality render as we speak! Hoping to have that ready by the end of this week.

Nice-looking piece. Can I suggest you move your post to the Vendors' Forum? https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/27-vendors-forum/ Thank you.