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HybridZ
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  1. Today
  2. he will sell them in carbon fiber, don´t know when they will be available here is his website https://www.industrygarage.com/ , he recently announced that he will make most body panels in carbon aswell
  3. Looking to use this motor in my Z. Finger crossed to see a clear resolution on this!
  4. This is a good question and there is almost no info I have found, even from ZFever about how to change the steering linkages with the VQ35/VQ37 swap. For a while I was under the impression the tubular manifolds on the VQ37 would allow the steering to clear when it is mounted correctly but that may not be case. I wish I could help you but I’m just as lost as you when it comes to this area of the swap.
  5. @Shiboh I got the system installed on my car now it’s a 78 280z I am using stock injectors with aeromotive adjustable FPR and a billet fuel rail with no cold start injector here are my settings they are some differences on what your settings are. base fuel pressure; 40psi injector pressure; 19lb/hr @43psi Fuel trim; -6 for accel setting, zero for cranking. AFR set to 13.9 at idle, 14.0 at cruise and 12.7 at wot idle set to 800 rpm Engine size 171 rev limit 6000 Throttle body “other” Injector count 6 I set my TPS to about .3 volts set Fuel Pressure regulator to 29 with vacuum connected and car at idle I have my idle speed screw all the way closed on the throttle body I think I need to lower my accel value to -8 like you have it because it seems to really be dumping fuel under throttle and my AFR shows about 8.8
  6. Not aware of any vendors that are selling just a pair of lowering springs (vs set of four); but a couple other ideas that may work for you are: 1) If you're running the stock strut isolators in the front, replace them with simple bolt-in camber plates. Should lower the front end by approx 1". Silvermine offers them at about the best price I've seen on the web: https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/suspension/240z-260z-280z-camber-plates-bolt-in-lowering-kit 2) If you're running gas-charged strut inserts (i.e. shocks) in the front, consider replacing them with non gas-charged units. It's surprising how much static "lift" gas-charged shocks can produce vs the non-charged shocks.
  7. Thank you, but I was more wondering how you are able to get correct tension on your belt. I haven't seen any tension arm brackets for the VQ37 alternator.
  8. So the body shop gave me some less than stellar news, but news I was somewhat expecting to hear. My chassis is saveable but to have somebody else do it will cost me more than I can really afford to spend. It sucks, but I had a feeling deep down that it would possibly be the case. This means that I will need to start really putting in some work to improve my pretty mediocre welding and metal body working skills (I'm a wizard with body fill and fiberglass though cause of my work with boats in college). Anyway, I would appreciate any help and tips and pointers you guys could throw my way about replacing the outer rockers and the main engine bay rails where they meet the radiator core support because those are areas I know I'll struggle. I've seen some pretty good guides about the floor pans and frame rails/front gussets that make me believe that it is something I can do as a novice with the help from some of my friends who have done body work before, but still any advice is much appreciated. It sounds like I shouldn't need any thing more than a good quality MIG welder to do all of the body work on this car.
  9. Definitely couldn't hurt, let me know when you do that how it goes.
  10. It came with the conversion kit that I purchased from JTR. You can also buy it separately. I made the plates for the top, to sandwich the floor. I also painted it myself. Other than that, that's how I received it. I actually installed the T56 last weekend but I haven't got around to posting any pictures. Maybe I'll post a update and some pictures later this weekend or next weekend. By the way, quick tip for anyone swapping in a T56. Go ahead and cut out the stock Datsun transmission mounts. The Borg-Warner T56 is not one of the transmissions that will fit in between them
  11. Glad that's all it was. It's always the obvious. I think I going to try the alignment route. Mine doesn't pull but I never did get an alignment after a refurbed the front end.
  12. With that said, I still have new tie rods, and some various front end bushings coming to tighten things up even more.
  13. Good news, the straight line shimmy is 100% gone as of today. Went to a buddies and we ran fishing line on jackstands to check toe on all 4 wheels with steering wheel centered (working out degrees later tonight because im curious). Front Left was 4mm toe in Front Right was 9mm toe OUT Both rears were 1mm toe in My Car would track right pretty heavy, and the 9mm toe out explains it all. As soon as I adjusted the front right Tie Rod, we got it dead on 4mm toe in and the shimmy disappeared completely. Can cruise in 5th 2000rpm with a rock solid steering wheel, that use to be the worst spot for vibration.
  14. What did you do for your steering shaft? Teach me! I have an issue with binding because of the angles, ive been told to cut into the time cover....
  15. Yesterday
  16. Hey guys, i’m in the middle of swapping my vq37 into my 280z. we’ve stumbled onto a very important issue 😅 Steering shaft- we have added a few U joints and heim joints to support the rack. the angles aren’t right a lot of binding, we have tried different approaches but we end up with binding and terrible steering. I’ve talked to a few people on social media that have done this swap and i’ve been told to cut into my time chain cover...... Some one help me😭😭😭😭😭 The Pinion sticks out from the rack and the joint that connects to the rack hits the timing cover (that’s where we would like to cut) we removed the compressor from the block to allow us some room to work with.
  17. Thanks i already have an idea of how to use an multimeter, I used to build RC cars and that video gave me an reminder of how To properly use it, I already had ordered the multimeter and the power and tach wires And will come by mail by tomorrow. Ill test the cables, distributor cap and I’ll be back with any updates. thanks again.
  18. Don't think I am going to blast the body Richard. Other than the door and firewall there is minimal rust. That will save me some money I can put to other things. Next step is the Bad Dog frame connectors. While I'm prepping for the rails will poke around with the sander and screw driver just to make sure there are no hidden patches of rust.
  19. lol yeah it has tons of potential, its just taken so long that i just lost interest with so many simultaneous projects and not nearly enough space or money these days...
  20. Goodness, that is quite the list. Sounds like the best model car kit! Hmmm...tempting.
  21. Congrats! Bummer on the low cylinder. I've learned to really address that sooner than later. I hoped it was just a weak gasket or something and it turned out to be a cracked piston.
  22. That is a lot of work yet to be done. But, starting from scratch is the best way to get it all correct, and the way you want it. So now the only question is blast or not to reveal anything hidden. Great work!!
  23. Time for a much needed update.... Car is tubbed, cage is nearly complete, engine/transmission are in the car, etc
  24. Hey guys, like the title says I am looking to buy just a front set of lowering springs. Seems I have removed a bunch of weight during my LS twin turbo conversion since the front end is a tad high.... The rear of the car has been tubbed so I don't need rear springs. I don't need front adjustable coilovers either or the added fabrication involved for type of action this car will ever see. Just a pair of drop in lowering coil springs will do me just fine. So if you know a store or retailer, even a private seller, i would appreciate the info. Thanks!!
  25. Did you make that t-56 cross member or purchase it?
  26. Dadddio

    '72 hatch

    I am looking for a hatch for my '72 240z. Doesn't necessarily need to have glass. Needs to be rust free. White would be a bonus. I'm in the St. Louis area. Thanks in advance.
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