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  1. Past hour
  2. So I'm starting to plan on my dash and getting everything in order. I'd like to run a purely tablet driven dash. Most of the sensors I need are accessible via Raspberry Pi running Tuner Studio hooked up to my Megasquirt 2 (v 3.57). Is there anyway to also get readings like, oil pressure, fuel level, gps speed, through to tuner studio?
  3. Today
  4. I have a 71 240z that has a SBC in it. my valve covers were leaking and cracked so i wanted to replace them but ...the original covers had an oil filler cap hole and two other holes for the breather. Ive looked around for a replacement but found some that they only have 2 holes for the breather and none for the oil cap. Can I use this valve cover and just use one breather and use the other hole to put a cap plug. Do i have to get a cover with 3 holes or can i use the ones with just two with out oil cap hole thanks
  5. i've searched, honestly. The aftermarket tach in our '72 is junk. Is it possible to make the OEM tach work with the V8? I see some "adapters" out there. The 350 has an HEI dizzy. The OEM tach is still sitting in the nacelle and it would be so nice just to make it work with the V8, ya know? Something like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-TACH-ADAPTER-CONVERTER-COP-1-2-3-4-5-6-8-10-cyl-to-any-4-6-8-Tach/141931549970?hash=item210bc79512:g:wqgAAOSwNX1b~MNz:rk:1:pf:0
  6. Danconklin

    Custom Triple Su Carbs

    I had this on my 71 240z I was given the โ€œruff Castes manifold when I bought the car. We built the linkage, fuel line and flow tube. It was a successful application and once balanced performed without any problems or adjustments for years!
  7. Sounds like it's not fully closed when you think it's fully closed. How do you know it's fully closed? What are you using to drive it?
  8. Jethoncho

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    Thanks amigo! You should, itโ€™s only getting more valuable!
  9. ALEXUMC

    280SR-Z from Germany

    They had no Dustcovers on the caplipers so at my place they dont like it. But iโ€˜m Fine with That ๐Ÿคท๐Ÿปโ€โ™‚๏ธ
  10. Ereschkigal

    280SR-Z from Germany

    They are just more difficult to get approved. "Not allowed" is wrong.
  11. ALEXUMC

    280SR-Z from Germany

    Hi, I love it to Sure you can, but when you have a look at a willwood brake setup you will end up a lot cheaper. I would use willwood but in Germany they're not allowed. ๐Ÿ˜•
  12. Lets try removing the Turn Switch out of the equation; 1) unplug the 6-wire connector from the switch but leave the Black Ground wire running between the two in tack. Did this remove the "extra" power from the Headlight plug? 2) With the Headlights off ground the Red/black wire on the harness side (see diagram above for location). 3) Turn the Headlight Switch to the "on" position, do you have Low Beam lights? 4) If so, then the Turn Signal switch is suspect and likely needs to be opened up and have the contacts cleaned.
  13. Awesome, thanks. I have some spare injectors, but they've been sitting for several years and I'd be hesitant to use them without getting them cleaned by WitchHunter or similar first. Some confirmation that I'm on the right troubleshooting track is great. 7.9mm line is easy to get around here, I'll see if I can source new seals and o-rings locally, or maybe just make it a 2-stage repair. -Eric
  14. I fixed already those wires that were rusty,, now I removed the maf sensor and I sprayed starting fluid and it turned on right away and smooth,, but once again. I check all the relays with the multimeter and apparently they are fine and I still have no voltage at fuel pump. Please help guys I will appreciate so much.
  15. seattlejester

    280ZX 2jz transmission help

    Probably not. Nissan bell housing isn't removable. So no bolt in swap type scenario is going to happen. If you had an access to CAD and a CNC machine you could theoretically make an adapter plate, but then you are looking at custom off set fly wheel and such potentially. If you had a TIG that could weld 1 inch aluminum you could in theory graft it together, but then you are looking at trying to piece together the correct clutch scenario which most likely won't happen. R154 are generally made for the 7m, the 1jz variants would work. If you used the R154 bell housing, you would have to either covert the engine to the push type via W58 gear, or covert the nissan trans to a pull type (or vice versa). That would of course be assuming you have perfect distance to the input shaft and the flywheel splines and all that jazz mesh, which they don't. Also not sure what you have, as auto R154's don't exist as far as I know. If you are on a budget you can go with a W58. If you can't afford that, then you can stick with the automatic and convert to a CD009 using that bell housing and a collins adapter conversion thingy in the future. Keep in mind transmission options are expensive for 2jz's. I've done both the R154 and the CD009 and both will put you in the hole about 2k with minimal effort. Best not to limp in on something like this.
  16. seattlejester

    seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    Thanks, I think I am going to try and get some lift time soon and I'll grab a few more photos. It really does look like stock, maybe even better with the speed grooves. The tank is from when they switched over to the LS-1, so 99+ I believe. Notes while I still remember. Most parts you can buy from rock auto, straps, hardware, fuel fill neck, gas cap, lock ring, etc. The Spectra V6 pump says it will push 50gph, but I'm not sure if that is true, I have the pump, but I've never tried it. Their pumps are clipped into a plastic ring and are not readily replaceable other than another spectra pump so be advised. The stock style bucket was found on amazon for about $30, it has the rubber sleeve, jet pump assembly, etc. You can get a stock replacement for something ludicrous like $5-700 from the parts store. Racetronix sells a plug and play kit for the STOCK bucket. It puts a 255lph pump that uses the jet pump and is all wired up, but it is for the STOCK bucket, if you use aftermarket they switched to wider tabs for the fuel pump wires and the plug will not fit. You will have to harvest the new pins from the new bucket and crimp them onto the thicker wires from the racetronix kit. The part that is seemingly non existent is the fuel fill hose that connects the neck to the tank. According to the junkyard they cut those to drain the tank. Given the tank has a roll over valve that seems completely unnecessary, but I believe the stock fill neck is welded to the car so it may be how they remove it easily. I found a hose for an old jeep that is the correct diameter, if you can find 1 inch hose rated for gas as well as some 1 inch hose barbs you will be in business, I could not find any locally. Still looking for the right fittings. Company/part number: Omix-Ada 17740.05 it seems to have sufficient bends and curves to figure something out with some couplers/90 fittings. Note the V6 and the V8 tanks are identical as far as I can tell. The internal bucket mechanism is different. My setup is a combo, I have the top half of the V6 bucket and the lower portion of the V8, the only benefit is that my fuel return goes straight back into the bucket instead of shooting out from the removed regulator port, not sure if it will make a difference. The difference once again is the V6 has a feed and return and dumps into the bucket, no regulator in line. The V8 setup has a regulator built into the bucket and will not return until 70psi or so. I am pretty sure these are the fittings I used to adapt to the top of the tank https://www.amazon.com/Russell-640853-Quick-Disconnect-Female-Fitting/dp/B001P2CKVY/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1548038859&sr=8-15&keywords=3%2F8+to+6an+quick I already have 6 an line so plug and play. The pump needs to be primed on your first go around, preferably with adequate fuel. I had it all installed and poured in a few gallons into the tank and the pump wouldn't circulate. Pulled it out and filled the bucket a bit and it gurgled then started pumping. Make sure you prime it the first time before you load it into the tank. The bars to mount the tank against should be about 2 inches wide (note the frame, not the straps). Make sure you use foam on the pressure points, you can see where they used it on the factory tank from the cut outs they have for it (weather strip foam bought at home depot). Ohm range is like 40-250 for the sender. Not many gauges seem to do this range. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Gauge-2-52mm-full-ranges-LED-low-fuel-warning-001-F-BB-17/261697663603?hash=item3cee657273:g:PukAAOSwKSRa4yMw:rk:30:pf:0 That is the one I bought and it works well. Pretty nice as mentioned above.
  17. Who in california has a wing for my 1979 280zx
  18. Yeah I hear you, just slowly ticking away at it. I have a question about Bosch Idle valves if someone might have some experience with them. I'm using a bosch IAC out of a early 2000s VW (pictured below). The valve behaves as expected, and I can see it close at the proper duty cycles. However, it's only effecting my idle by about 50 rpm. If I put my thumb infront of the idle hole, I can still feel a lot of air being sucked in through the valve even when its fully closed. If I fully cover the IAC intake, the engine shuts down. Are these valves supposed to seal at fully closed? Or do they still leak air by? I think I might have a defective valve.
  19. LegnaZetr0

    1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

    Nice work, Robert! Flying right through this project, maybe this will motivate me to get back wrenching on my bucket of parts ๐Ÿ˜…
  20. Absolutely correct. Been into the turbo scene since 2012. LS and turbos are like bread and butter.
  21. Yesterday
  22. Plan on getting started on it this Spring. Going to dial down the initial plan just to get it rolling under its own power. So phase I will just be a turbo LS swap, Powerglide with a transbrake, billet converter, welded R200 differential, Toyota 4x4 caliper upgrade, slotted/crossdrilled rotors, and rear coilovers from Techno Toy Tuning.
  23. unterbergamotten3

    280SR-Z from Germany

    Love your brake setup. Any chance I could get a set of those mounting brackets? Or the CAT file? Bitte
  24. Finally back in the shop with some time to look at this issue again, and it feels like I'm going in circles. I replaced the 12V battery with a fresh one and started the process again. -I've got power at the white/red stripe going into the combo switch on the column now (I checked the connection behind that white plastic harness in the passenger foot-well area as well, it didn't work at first but did after cleaning the contacts a bit) -I've got 12V at each of the two headlight fuses on the fuse box, but ONLY when combo switch is on high beams, not when it's off or set to low beams -ground connection between combo and turn signal switches is intact and reads within 1mV of chassis ground -no power at any of the 3 headlight contacts, unless the switch is on high beams, in which case i get 12V at all three
  25. Exposed

    Speed Forme Kit

    what specs did you end up running on your wheels? I have some speed forme flares and haven't had a chance to fit them up yet. Anything you disliked about the kit when installing it?
  26. Exposed

    seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    that tank is a good idea, looks like it was meant to be there. I need to either clean out my current tank or repair/ replace it, was having a similar issue when the car was on the road. What year camaro is that from?
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