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  2. Also losing fluid from one of the reservoirs is usually a symptom of a bad primary cup seal in the master. If it's in the front it will usually push fluid into the rear reservoir. If it's in the rear it will dump fluid into the booster. I've had a brand new Tilton master leak. I'm sure it's not unheard of with Wilwood as well.
  3. Hole in the diaphragm makes the hissing/whistling noise.
  4. Today
  5. If you're going to split the wiring into 2 looms, I suggest keeping the low current sensors away from the potentially noisy high current actuators.
  6. Working on my 280zxt Cas signal, so I can do full sequential. I got a very nice 280zxt distributor without a cas from a fellow Datsun nerd. I then found a basically new fully Nissan Cas from a 1998 Nissan Quest. Which has the correct trigger wheel. Pretty neat. Dizzy is getting vapor blasted today and I should have it all installed by the weekend. Pretty excited!
  7. Hey Joe, Want to trade Shifter Relocation part? I have a GTO trans ( I didnt know this) and the MGW short shifter as well. I need the inner part and would gladly trade you my GTO for your F-Body one
  8. I'd be concerned about the kick out, especially the right one. Also as high as those are it would dump into the firewall. If the engine is kept more forward there might be room to get it turned down. The engine bay is plenty long. I don't think they will work very well if the engine is held tight to the firewall for better car balance. With how short the Coyote platform is a front/mid engine setup should be possible with the strut towers about even with cylinders 1&2. My firewall is messy anyway so I'm going to set the engine right back into it and box a bit as necessary. I plan to do some shorty equal length headers. Reports I have seen show these engines really respond to a good exhaust and tune. Because the pulses are perfectly even side to side the Voodoo exhaust can be much less complicated and still have no compromise. If they don't flare too much, those manifolds might work well to get an engine in and running initially. You could always add headers.
  9. I pulled the rod and reaction disc out and glued the disc in place as per the faq.... would the rod adjustment being wrong create a hiss or is that just from the booster failing?
  10. The hissing sound suggests a failed booster. After you test the booster per my previous post, and it fails the test, replace the booster. Typical booster installation errors include push rod adjustment and/or the reaction disk falling out. See the brake FAQ and brake forums for details. Suggest that you read up on push rod adjustment and the raction disk.
  11. For reference: I can't find any pictures of them installed though. It mildly concerns me that they angle at the end, which means they're pointing at the transmissions potentially a bit much, but they also seem to terminate right at the end of the motor, so that's probably pretty good. That'll put the flange in a place that there should be space for them.
  12. is it possible the boot on the back end (boot thats behind the pedal) has something to do with it? might have messed that up
  13. So I have a spare motor on it's way over to me thanks to stupid_fast who's really coming through for me. In the meantime, nodus is scheeming and causing all sorts of trouble (the good kind). He has a project that's likely getting parted out, so there's a motor there that will likely end up at my house. More to come later.
  14. Thanks for the response! The pedal has been making a bit of a hissing noise since the upgrade.... the booster was working fine before the install of the new master cyl (or at least i didnt have these problems....), check valve hasnt been touched. going to bleed brakes then do this test today then check mc push rod, are there common areas where the booster can leak from? is it possible that something broke in the booster when i installed the new master? Thanks again!
  15. I believe it is new, not an original nissan cam. The width of the lobes is quite different. you agree?? joe
  16. "2: Do you have the correct length Factory bolt with factory thick washer? Washer is very important. Threads will bottom out in crank if you use the wrong washer. " ^^^^^This all day long! JeffP machined a Volvo Washer down - it was thick enough that it didn't "Bell out' when you torqued it. The crank pulley should be slightly proud of the crank snout, if you have pulled out the oil slinger...it will be closer! If that washer bells AT ALL it will contact the end of the crank and it's the same as it was bottoming on the threads: you are torquing something bound and the strain goes up without actually clamping anything. My comments on the above: Clean the threads with brake cleaner and use Locquic Primer N for the threadlocker. Loctite Blue 242/243 Schnell should be fine in this application, and you should also be using RC608 Cyndrical Parts Locker on the snout and key to hold the pulley from working back and forth and loosening the bolt. Loctite Red should be considered permanent, and heating the bolt with a torch should be required to remove it...if it comes out with red without torching the head to break down the bonding, your threads were oily in the first place. Used on clean threads and with Primer N no more than 4 drops (8cc's) of 242 should be MORE than enough to have you cursing and reaching for the torch to relax the 'removable' locker's bond to get it off! A Note here on "Cleaning the Threads" - use a BOTTOMING TAP and MAKE SURE all the threads in the crank are full depth as far into the snout as they can go to ease use of the longer bolts. I agree that buying a new bolt and proper washer is not expensive and is probably the best bet if you are having issues. I have a car where the guy got upset and put in this HUGE SPS Bolt into the nose of the crank. It's extreme, but it doesn't come loose. Thing is, he had a thin washer (guess what the problem ended up being!!!) Torque the bolt to the 75% Tensile Region Specification, no more than 85% tensile...this should keep you away from plastic elongation and allow re-use at least a couple of times (remember if using threadlocker properly, you will likely be torching the head of the bolt which isn't good for longevity!) I ESPECIALLY agree with another bolt (Use the KA24 bolt and washer if nothing else, and have it cut down to your needed length) if you have an ARA A/C Pulley added. The one they used in their kits WILL BOTTOM. If you have the crank out EVER...consider having the machine shop cut the woodruff keys into a single large key, and use standard key stock the FULL LENGTH of the crank snout. Seal it in with loctite, and a little RTV at the back to prevent oil leakage. I've seen guys with that slotted nose also fill the area under the washer with Loctite 598/Permatex Ultrablack as a leak stop as well. I haven't had issues if I seal the key. That full length key will SAVE your crank by greatly increasing the area that secures the pulley/damper should it come loose. This is common in the JDM since the 70's and I don't know why more in the USA don't do it.
  17. Fascistbook is the warren of the butthurt and the snowflakey... If they have a visceral hatred it's because it can be whined to the highest heavens with supporting ilk in a safe place. It's pathetic when you consider most who are butthurt are upset because they were CORRECTED and resented it. I don't know, I appreciate being correct. If you're not corrected, you are giving bad information and that's the last thing I want to do is give bad information. And therein lies the rub... Many weren't out to give out information, they were out to make a name for themselves. I bought a shirt recently that is black with white block letters: IDK IDC IDGAF If I could have had "if you click like and follow me" it would have been perfect!
  18. mine came from RPM transmissions. its technically out of a late model GTO. the guy said it was the same case as a f-body camaro t56 but the 1st gear is shorter in a GTO tranny. i think the shifter location is different too, cause i remember him saying he would put a camaro shifter in it. he felt the camaro 1st gear was too long. i dont know how much difference it would make for you, im happy with what i have is all i know. i dont know how the magnum t56 would be with the shifter location. i was happy as can be the 1st time i put the motor with the trans hooked up in its place and seen how perfect the location of the shifter was. if you want more strength out of the tranny (mayb why you want the magnum/viper tranny) look at RPM transmission. mines built to handle 750hp and they will do more than that.
  19. So I think I found just a shell in Southern TX that just needs floors. That I'm OK with so will update when I find out more. Asking $1800 and includes an RB26 motor.
  20. Hello Hybrid Z! I’m here to document my process of installing the Tanks Inc. Universal In Tank fuel pump. This has been done before numerous times BUT is somewhat elusive to track down quality pictures, notes etc. This is not a thread to discuss In tank VS external w/ sump etc. but I will mention my reason why I went with this setup. ***Disclaimer - I’m assuming you understand there’s is a risk involved when welding / cutting a old used gas tank. There’s a reason why I left mine out for almost 6 months while I worked on other parts of my build. PLEASE BE CAREFUL / make sure your tank has ZERO fuel particles / fumes leftover in it. Proceed at your own risk*** - Weld In universal sump hung to low on my lowered Z. You can imagine the issues! - External pumps are NOTORIOUS for noise... my build is a mid canned LS swap with AC etc. - Reduces the “clutter” under the car in the rear area Now for the what you will need parts wise : 1. PA series universal Kit from Tanks Inc. - MAKE SURE TO BUY THE FLOW RATE THAT SUITS YOUR BUILD http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/mode=prod/prd84.htm 2. 240Z or 280Z tank - Clearly the 240Z has one terrible baffle and the 280 has a few more. Baffling is not the Z Cars gas tanks strong Suite. With the PA kit it comes with a nifty little In tank sump that works amazing for MOST applications. 3. Tanks Inc PA-REC - Surprisingly very nice piece with a great https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-pa-rec/ 4. MIG Welder - I use the Eastwood MIG 135 and it does everything I need for this job and any other job in the Z! https://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html First step is I measured up the top of the tank where I was going to chop! Here’s the great part about this process - you have a MASSIVE HOLE to get inside and clean / add baffles if you want! The recess fits nicely in the hole I just created In order to keep my stock fuel gauge I heated up the plunger am and bent accordingly to clear the Tanks Inc. system once installed I then used all 16 screws to since right the locking rig UNDERNEATH the recess and tack welded at and between each screw hole - 32 rack welds total after this I measured the Vertical portion of the tanks Inc arm with the recess mocked up - I measured a total of 9 15/16” so I cut to 9 7/8” for a little extra room - I then used a square to tack weld the tray instead of using ONE screw that’s supplied stay tuned for more tomorrow -Don
  21. Well shit! Hope you can get it sorted before the 14th. I'm not sure an F22C1 would fit the character of the car well but to each his own. VQ is a cool swap and the LSx is a given.
  22. Sounds like a booster problem. Check your booster and vacuum hoses to the booster. Also, make sure that the check valve is installed correctly. Check that the push rod between the MC and the booster is adjusted correctly. Booster check: With the engine off, place your foot on the brake pedal and apply pressure like you are trying to stop the car. Hold that pressure. While still applying pressure on the brake pedal, start the car. You should feel the brake pedal sink a bit and become softer to push. It means that the booster is working. If the pedal remains hard to push during the test then there is a booster issue. Most likely the booster is leaking or it is not getting vacuum from the engine. The other cause of a stiff pedal would be if the MC push rod is adjusted too far out such that it is pushing the piston inward in the MC. What happens is the piston gets pushed past the the point where the the fluid return port is covered so fluid gets pumped out to the brakes but can not return to the tanks when the pedal is released. So the brakes become locked. If this happens you can relieve the pressure by opening the bleeders on the MC.
  23. Just upgraded to wilwood dynalite calipers, have an 8.5" booster, and put the wilwood 1" mc in and now my pedal is hard as a rock barely any travel...have to hit the pedal super hard to get brakes to work. Thought it was getting softer and better then realized one of the resevoirs had emptied ( which i beleive ive now remedied..) is it supposed to be this hard? for people whove done caliper upgrades is it worth switching down to a 15/16 to get a better pedal or what? Thanks
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