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  1. Past hour
  2. Moving, having a baby and selling my 280z. Have some parts that I want to get rid of so I’m not toting them along. All of these parts either 1) came off of a car I owned 2) were purchased from members here or 3) were purchased new. Make (reasonable) offers ECU. 1 - 76 auto trans, 1 - 77 2+2 manual Distributor - 1977 Distributor, 1983 turbo, diy autotune optical wheel installed. Have oil pump spindle to go along Pallnet fuel rail, no regulator. Have 440cc 7mgte injectors turbo exhaust manifold. All 4 studs intact, no cracks COP bracket w/ LS coils. I have a full n47/n47 block head pulled from a 77 2+2. Ran with some encouragement, never opened up. Planted Universal seat bracket, 280z drivers side angled rear tabs. Photos on request. I probably have a few other items but would like to get these out of my garage to a loving home. -Robert
  3. Today
  4. The more that I ponder it, the more it strikes me how an NA Miata (1990-1997) is today, what the 240Z was 20-25 years ago.. light, simple and beautiful... old enough to be "simple", but young enough to run reliably without constant attention or the need for a restoration. The late Wick Humble (sp?) - unless I'm confusing him with another venerable fellow of the same vintage - had a long-running column in Z-car Magazine. He was fond of condescendingly dismissing the V8 Datsun, with the quip, "Hey, if you really want a V8 2-seater coupe, why don't you just buy a Corvette"? The point that he missed, is that even the lightest Corvette is >3100 pounds. It has, at least in the modern generations, something like a 106" wheelbase. Sure, it's fantastic at 100 mph, and no doubt could go around the Nuerburgring faster than all but the most aggressively modified Datsuns. But how does it do at 30 mph? How well does it negotiate cones in a parking lot? The whole point of a V8 Datsun, or a V8 Miata, or a V8 AC-Ace, or a V8 MG, or a V8 VW Bug, etc., is to introduce insane amounts of power into a light, short-wheelbase car. Its ultimate racing-prowess is beside the point. Its main aim is to produce ear-to-ear grins in an entirely legal street-driving situation. To get such a grin out of a 911, a Corvette, or even an M3, requires a specialized setting.
  5. JCI is sending his original 1.5" design once the fabricator finishes, hopefully this week. The 1.75" set was really nice but needs a drivers side redesign to work well in my opinion. There's plenty of clearance by the steering shaft to have all spark plugs fit with the 1.75" primaries, but it can't just be a single mandrel 90, the 1st primary would need a bend down then back to join the others, the dent was going to be massive I didn't want to restrict just one port. 1.5's should tide me over since I might do a cam eventually but nothing too crazy yet. It's part of his Vital Liquids set. He'll sell them individually though if you need just an adapter.
  6. Some of us abhor fuel-injection, computers or closed-loop feedback. Lower weight and better power-density are fantastic, but not all of the associated trade-offs are worthwhile. The main disadvantage of the "old school" engines is that, unlike in the 1990s, they're no longer readily available in junkyards. They've become the stuff of specialized machine shops, or at least mail-order houses. Costs have risen. Performance has risen too, but the cheapness-factor is largely obsolete. The above notwithstanding, I'd prefer the largest displacement engine, making the most torque. If that is via an LS, fine. If traditional small-block or big-block V8, that's fine too. And there have been successful instances of LS engines reverse-upgraded to work with a carburetor. Some have been very nicely done. But at the very least, we're debating "old school" vs "modern" V8s. At least we've not begun by insulting a hapless new-member with some condescending "Search, newb!" That alone is progress, and I'm grateful for it.
  7. Yesterday
  8. Yes an LS is more expensive but you can find often a low mileage good LS with transmission and everything on it for around $5K. The old school V8' are not worth much as most people do not want them and are going to a modern LS fuel injected V8. If cost is an issue sure go with the old school as you can often get a old school 350 for next to nothing but the car no matter how nice will NOT resale for anywhere close to an LS Z nor be as desirable.
  9. Is this group buy still active ? I’m ready to pull the trigger .
  10. Your setup is very neat. I’ve been thinking about a solution for awhile. Your setup looks so simple - which is great - I’m jealous you thought about it, not me :) congrats!
  11. I bit of perseverance (and a new CAS haha) has paid off! I have a functioning L20ET distributor that my Megasquirt MS1 can read. I fiddled with a few mods to the board taken from a few sites that have V3.0 board info. Ultimately I could have left the mods at removal of C12, C30, D1 and D2 but I left one of the diodes in as backflow protection. I didn’t need a pull up resistor but I left the one I had installed from the S12c pad. The Fuelmiser crank angle sensor Sparebox first sent was faulty through bench testing. Sparebox quickly replaced it which was great. I slapped the dizzy back together with the DYIAutoTune 12-1 trigger wheel which means I can run COP later if I choose. The next step for me is to swap in the turbo oil pump drive with the engine in the car. It’s the one item of work I have been putting off for obvious reasons haha!
  12. BUMP Price Reduced $4500 CAD ($3400 USD) Text 1-306-530-8707
  13. call or text 308 440 9561
  14. For sale in Kearney NE. $10,000 lots of extra parts
  15. ckrell

    the orphan

    s30 build 4g63/240z
  16. Awesome It's always nice to see a refresh new project underway. One thing I may suggest is, those 4.6 engines are tall depending on the intake manifold and throttle body your using. If you want your hood to close without cutting it. The oil pan will sit quite a bit lower then the Datsun sub frame. I cut the a sub frame out of a mustang to protect my oil pan. If I were to do it again I would cut the pan to be less deep or buy a shallow aftermarket one. Cheers
  17. That 350Z is crazy fast and shows what the chassis is capable of. Porsche concentrate on making a car that is competition orientated and comfortable enough for it's target market while the 350 and 370 are built to a lower price which means no competition orientated tweaks like extra chassis spot welds for a stiffer body with less metal. Extra metal is cheaper than extra spot welds, it boils down to basics like that.
  18. I’m with you Lazeum, beautiful table btw. Purchased an Everlast 250ex. Go big or go home. I’ve been having a blast. My welding itself is mediocre at best, but the whole process has tried to teach me patience and let my creativity go wild. Not to mention learn some fabrication skills. Prep prep prep, especially with aluminum. My first project was my coil bracket. Then welded all my intercooler piping and turbo stuff (modify manifold, build downpipe etc. after the rush of getting the car on the road for summer was some fun projects (not that the others weren’t, just less pressure). Wife’s birthday present and since this thread is about welders.... my welding cart. pretty excited to learn all the fancy functions, improve my skills and really hone in on my patience. I’m really glad I went with a bigger welder. Aluminum eats the amps quick, so does the pulse function (manual or automatic). 200amp minimum if aluminum is in your future at all.
  19. Last week
  20. I've also invested into TIG welder last year. We all have super projects to go such as roll bar, sway bar, braces, etc. At the end, we all need some learning curves and I got into furniture making. Simply because the risk to kill myself with a table or a lamp is lower than with chassis braces in my Z. So I've got a welder and I haven't yet made any automotive parts ! Between welding techniques, how to set up the welder, choose the right cups, tig rod, gas flow, etc. it takes a lot of time. We all make the same mistake: we believe because we have a welder, we can weld. This is far from being true. ...and when you believe you start to master the new toy tool, you start realizing that welding make everything moves. Something square at the beginning end up being all over the place at the end. So come new questions: heat management, how to tack and clamp stuffs, etc. You also realize you do not really know how to cut and shape metal. So it is not always only about welding but also preparation. It takes almost as much time to learn how to properly shape metal as welding. I have a IGBT Tig 200, same as Powerlast i-TIG 200T and I'm very happy with it. Having AC/DC TIG is for sure a nice feature but I could just use titanium instead if required 😅 Budget comes into play also. I'm way over 1500€ ($1500) with my setup when you add everything up. I believe having a digital inverter TIG is a must now. I love the pulse feature, high frequency start, slopes, etc. It really helps to control puddle and consistency for beginners with pulses. Because pictures are cool, here are some of my projects: A lamp with Edison type bulb, 10 hrs of work to make it. Cool project because it really teaches how to spot weld. A second lamp because I've found cool rusty chains that inspired me Because we all have to start somewhere: A bottle opener. You have no idea how popular it is. I've build 5 of them - I own none. Each time friends come at my place for a drink, they are begging me for one so I gave them apart. With this project, I was also able to play with arc length and heat. I was able to make some heat treatment to make the hook harder. Last project was a coffee table. My work of art (so far!). I've spent 40 hrs minimum in the making. Oh, and I had to learn how to work on reclaim wood also ! Almost done. I still need to finish the legs (hence the board below to avoid scratching the hardwood floor)
  21. I am going to attempt to move my FPR to the drivers side and use it. That way I am hard lines under the car. I will T the return from 7mm to 5mm and return via the stock 5mm line and the 7mm vapor vent line. Then use the 5/16 to feed the ITBs. Hopefully it works! I bought some 7mm efi fuel hose from belmetric. So that should give me a good amount more flow. Hopefully my push lock fittings work with it. My FPR mount was waiting to fail, i cut a lot of the strength out. So I will need to fabricate another and put it in my stock coil spot. Should end up looking pretty clean and simple.
  22. I use a Miller Diversion 180. It is fine for my purposes, but in retrospect I think it is overpriced for it's capabilities. For anyone just starting TIG welding, it is one of those endeavors that is very simple in concept but the execution can take years or decades to perfect. Sticking two pieces of metal together is not difficult, but making a nice looking solid weld without over-cooking the crap out of the part is exceedingly difficult. People like the guy on "Welding Tips and Tricks" make it look easy, but.....it isn't.
  23. What’s your PayPal? I need a set + the jig. Thanks!!!
  24. Thanks for your quick reply. Will check the dash harness first before proceeding to the tank.
  25. What bell housing, clutch/flywheel are you using?
  26. Evan where on JCI's site are those parts located. Couldn't locate them.
  27. Nice work Evan. I've located a 2002 Tahoe 5.3 which I hope to pickup this weekend. Waiting to here about header fix.
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