Jump to content
HybridZ
  • Member Statistics

    29799
    Total Members
    2093
    Most Online
    MadMatt
    Newest Member
    MadMatt
    Joined

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Self-adjusting just means that the hydraulic cylinder will pull enough fluid in on its backstroke to get a full stroke on the next pedal press. So, even if you adjust the rod at the slave cylinder it will still push the same distance. The ratio of your clutch pedal would need to be like that of a Supra if you wanted to compare those parts. But, it might be easier to just find a Supra manual and see what the slave cylinder stroke is supposed to be. Then do the math on your car to see what slave cylinder stroke you'll get with a 7/8" master. There's no easy way without digging in to the math, unless you just put it together and measure what happens. There is stuff in the manuals. Here are some examples, from the 78 280Z FSM. The pedal picture is probably to scale so you could take measurements and compare to a supra to see if you need the 7/8" cylinder. If the pedals are the same, Z to Supra, then you probably want a 5/8" master. I'd say, odds are good that you should run the Z parts on the Supra clutch. They're both Japanese sports cars. Put the 5/8" master on and forge ahead.
  3. Yesterday
  4. It probably took 5 hours to vapor blast all of it. Lots of surface area.
  5. My current setup is a 2JZ GE from an SC300, SC300 Exedy stock clutch kit, stock flywheel, Exedy stock clutch slave, and a 7/8 bore wilwood master cylinder. I believe the stock SC300 system calls for a 5/8 bore master cylinder, I picked up this 7/8 bore master cylinder a while back when I thought I would be installing a completely different motor/transmission combo in the car. Would I need a 5/8 bore or would this 7/8 one work? How does the self adjusting work? I was reading you have to adjust the throw at the clevis where the pedal connects to the master cylinder and that it affects the throw of the clutch fork.
  6. I need the drivers side. Shipped to 75115
  7. I'm using an adapter kit provided by LOJ Kits. I'm able to keep the stock z32 bell housing and use a clutch/flywheel as provided from them as well.
  8. Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
  9. NO hes hearing the injectors click not dizzy. Could be a bunch of reasons Here are some I would check in this order. Could be no power to the coil simple check with a light. IF YES check this.... Relay, Fuse, Physical connection. IF NO PROCEED to next Coil Wire to dizzy nice and snug. if yes continue COIL is bad How to check- Check FSM there are resistance test. IF good proceed. bad connection between COIL (NEG) to transistor source external / internal pin36 Ohm out. Bad transistor external / internal ( I doubt it ) If I had to guess its the BIP transistor touching the heat sink/too much thermal paste. Assembly guide as for using metal screw i use the nylon there. IF it is this you still learned something like trouble shooting flow chart. Goodluck
  10. look solid, those 3d printers can be quite useful.
  11. Minor improvements for v3, namely the ability to jump from 2015 to 2014 brakes and back as needed. Also tabbed a few spots to keep it from moving around too much during welding etc. David still rocking v1 in his 800hp car without issues half a year later.
  12. First off, finally got the wipers installed and working! Found some new arms on eBay and they work great! Also, installed the rear glass, antenna, and front bumper. The rope trick worked great for getting the glass in! Time for door cards (currently shipping) and seat (waiting on some brackets). Cockpit looks real good now! Side note... the aftermarket head unit requires constant positive voltage for memory and main power. Since the hazard switch is right there, I spliced into it for the constant +12. To get the radio to turn on I had to plug it in and unplug it many times and I thought this was just an anti-theft thing at first Today, I flipped on the hazards while the radio was on and it lost all power. I definitely forgot how hazards work with the flasher unit pulling the +12 to ground to make the lights flash So basically, don’t be stupid like me!
  13. Finally finished the car. Just finished passenger seat, and front windshield install. After reading issues with after market windshield seal, I went with Nissan seal and the install of the windshield went great the seal fits perfect. More pictures to come when the weather gets better. Next up maybe a supercharger and electric power steering.
  14. Hydraulic clutches are essentially self-adjusting. The throw will depend on cylinder travel. So it's your clutch pedal throw that will determine the hydraulic piston travel. Anyway, it's not adjustable. It's designed in to the system. And, the transmission has nothing to do with clutch fork or clutch hydraulics. The only thing the transmission does is provided a spot to hang the slave cylinder. Describe your other parts. Engine, clutch, slave cylinder, etc. You've probably done it somewhere else but it's not in this post.
  15. Last week
  16. E31 is back from final surfacing! Vapor blasting it was tedious. But results areawesome.
  17. I want to buy the manual transmission bell housing that was used on 280ZX Turbo models that received the Borg Warner T5 manual transmission. I am only interested in sourcing a bell housing! NOTE: If you are local to the Sacramento, California region I would be interested in a complete transmission.
  18. Hey! You may have gotten this resolved by now, but we had a similar problem with my car (similar setup). In the window "Spark Settings" there is a setting for "Spark Output Inverted" I think the default is YES and that's what we thought was correct. BUT we could not get the thing to run after setting it up with ford 36-2 wheel and sensor and individual coils. We changed the Spark Output Inverted from YES to NO and that is what was wrong. So you might try that. Again for our Ford crank timing and individual coil setup we needed to set the Spark Output Inverted setting to NO. And it is running great now!
  19. Hi RB30X, I'd like a kit if it is still available please. Im In Melbourne. Cheers
  20. +1 on buying the correct tools for the head bolts, they were only like 14 bucks for a set of 4 at AutoZone in varying sizes. I don't even know how you would be able to remove those bolts if they were rounded.
  21. Hey everyone, Can anyone give me a rundown of how to adjust my clutch fork throw? The transmission is a W58 pulled from a MK3 supra, I can't really find a spec for how much throw the fork should have. I'm running a wildwood 7/8 master cylinder with a new stock slave for the transmission. I don't want to overextend the clutch, so if anyone has a measurement, a place to find the measurement, or could measure their w58 fork throw that would help me a lot.
  22. Hey man, I apologize I haven't really been on here lately. I ended up having someone remove the bends, add crush sleeves to the rails, and weld the bolts to the rails as well. I'd like to mention though that I only had these problems because I did not weld the crossmember in. If its welded, you won't have the issues I had. I just wanted the option to be able to easily remove the crossmember. You can follow my build on IG if you want: jz_s30 (Ignore the overspray that will be taken care of at a later date)
  23. Thanks guys. I'll do those things and see if I get anywhere. Also getting a new fuel filter as well.
  24. Hey, thanks. I will check that out.
  25. Saw those pics on Facebook. Didn't put it together that it's you. Beautiful photos.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...