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  1. Today
  2. Some completed engine bay pictures of my progress. Excuse the media as I tend to work alot then forget to take progress pictures. I need a full time photographer! Welded in Bad Dog sway bar braces, Removable battery tray mod.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Fixed a couple issues. Timing was off, about 8 degrees too advanced. Distributor was off a tooth. Not sure when I last checked the timing... been years. Figured that would solve my high load/RPM cutouts. It solved hard hot starts. The car still likes 25 BTDC at idle for whatever reason. That's a relief. Replaced the pre-injector filter. The old one was clogged. Guess it is about 7 years old. Oops. Car runs rich AF now. In boost it's 10.5:1. So, went to a autocross and increased boost, of course. It's, uh, fast when it hooks.
  5. So this project actually started a while ago. I have been working slowly on my own project while working on customer cars on the side. It was one of those facebook post by some kid on behalf of the original owner who was now 87 years old. This one and only owner pre ordered it in december of 1969 and he recieved it 4/70. The maintenance records and documentation that came along with it are amazing. I have always had a passion for the S30 and this was finally my S1 I have been after. It was painted mercedes off white late in the 80s and thats the way the owner wanted it so that is the way he made it. Originally from California it traveled over to the east coast and sat inside a warehouse since 2003. (good thing too becuase I have worked enough cars over on the east coast to see what the salt does to them.) Anyhow the car was listed on FB for a few months and I had glanced over it a few times. It was a few months after I saw it that I decided to contact the seller. I asked if there was any documentation and low and behold I was presented with stacks of paperwork and service history. The ad did say it had an L28 now and this was why myself and I assume others passed it up. Turns out the original engine blew in 1990 and the owner got it serviced (like he always did) at Nissan. They had no more L24 engines so the installed a brand new NOS L28 Long block. It is all documented on the reciepts and work from the repair facility. At that moment I knew this was the car for me. I immediately worked out the viewing and hurried to pick it up with my trailer. It was better than I had expected and the documents made it that much better. It had to sit for some time after I got it home, but shortly I started work making it better. I will post in chronological order the progression of work through pictures. Enjoy...
  6. So this project actually started a while ago. I have been working slowly on my own project while working on customer cars on the side. It was one of those facebook post by some kid on behalf of the original owner who was now 87 years old. This one and only owner pre ordered it in december of 1969 and he recieved it 4/70. The maintenance records and documentation that came along with it are amazing. I have always had a passion for the S30 and this was finally my S1 I have been after. It was painted mercedes off white late in the 80s and thats the way the owner wanted it so that is the way he made it. Originally from California it traveled over to the east coast and sat inside a warehouse since 2003. (good thing too becuase I have worked enough cars over on the east coast to see what the salt does to them.) Anyhow the car was listed on FB for a few months and I had glanced over it a few times. It was a few months after I saw it that I decided to contact the seller. I asked if there was any documentation and low and behold I was presented with stacks of paperwork and service history. The ad did say it had an L28 now and this was why myself and I assume others passed it up. Turns out the original engine blew in 1990 and the owner got it serviced (like he always did) at Nissan. They had no more L24 engines so the installed a brand new NOS L28 Long block. It is all documented on the reciepts and work from the repair facility. At that moment I knew this was the car for me. I immediately worked out the viewing and hurried to pick it up with my trailer. It was better than I had expected and the documents made it that much better. It had to sit for some time after I got it home, but shortly I started work making it better. I will post in chronological order the progression of work through pictures. Enjoy...
  7. My buddy Walker Morgan build whole new turbo kit last year. Manifold alone was 60h of labor and it is pure work of art!
  8. So this project actually started a while ago. I have been working slowly on my own project while working on customer cars on the side. It was one of those facebook post by some kid on behalf of the original owner who was now 87 years old. This one and only owner pre ordered it in december of 1969 and he recieved it 4/70. The maintenance records and documentation that came along with it are amazing. I have always had a passion for the S30 and this was finally my S1 I have been after. It was painted mercedes off white late in the 80s and thats the way the owner wanted it so that is the way he made it. Originally from California it traveled over to the east coast and sat inside a warehouse since 2003. (good thing too becuase I have worked enough cars over on the east coast to see what the salt does to them.) Anyhow the car was listed on FB for a few months and I had glanced over it a few times. It was a few months after I saw it that I decided to contact the seller. I asked if there was any documentation and low and behold I was presented with stacks of paperwork and service history. The ad did say it had an L28 now and this was why myself and I assume others passed it up. Turns out the original engine blew in 1990 and the owner got it serviced (like he always did) at Nissan. They had no more L24 engines so the installed a brand new NOS L28 Long block. It is all documented on the reciepts and work from the repair facility. At that moment I knew this was the car for me. I immediately worked out the viewing and hurried to pick it up with my trailer. It was better than I had expected and the documents made it that much better. It had to sit for some time after I got it home, but shortly I started work making it better. I will post in chronological order the progression of work through pictures. Enjoy...
  9. You said you wanted it to rev higher. Where is your cam timing? Did you degree the cam to Schneider specs when you installed it? You can move the powerband higher by changing cam timing. Cam timing affects "breathing". https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4706/~/advancing-%2F-retarding-a-camshaft#:~:text=A Basic Overview of Cam,the camshaft and the crankshaft.&text=Advancing or retarding the cam,other of the crankshaft centerline. https://www.jcmmachineandcoatings.com/understanding-combustion/degreeing-a-camshaft/#:~:text=Degreeing the Camshaft-,What is Meant by Degreeing the Camshaft%2C and Why is,that their rotation is synchronized. http://schneidercams.com/284-70F-14_LET6.aspx
  10. My L28et was mechanically stock, and my torque started falling off after 4800. It was obviously a breathing issue, but I never pushed it much with the stock internals. Aside from all the usual things I’m listing below, I think chief among them is the cam. To this day I still have not met anyone who has a full grasp or confident opinions on turbo cams for the L series. I often hear (what’s good for NA is good for turbo), but I’m suspicious. I even called Rebello about this, and they had only run a few L28et’s with Reground cams that they were impressed by. They could not quote me the cam they used over the phone and needed to do more research. I suppose I could call Datsun spirit next. The list to consider (in this order, although debatable) 1) polish chamber and pay very close attention to eliminating any sharp edges. Think of anything you would anticipate would “glow” when hot. Deshroud valves. Straighten and widen (within limits) the intake and exhaust runners. Port Match to your desired manifold. Shave deck or add gasket material to adjust CR. 2) cam and valve timing. I’m not an expert here so others can chime in. 3) stock exhaust manifold and down pipe are quite restrictive. Need to replace with Better flowing units. 4) 3” exhaust mandrel bent or 3.5-4” standard bending. 5) upgrade intake manifold and throttle body from stock. Obviously you will need an inter cooler, which should be 2.5” mandrel bent. I believe these improvements really matter after you get past the 250-300ft-lb range. this is just my opinion, and I do not have data to support this. Only my first hand experience which is anecdotal.
  11. thanks JHM, i have the silvermine motors "Stage 4" kit. with it i grabbed a 15/16 mc
  12. I used a 3-way splitter, too...similar to @Miles. Crazy thing though -- I had a hard time finding one with deep enough threaded female ports...eventually found a supplier on eBay (from Latvia!) that had the one I needed. Looks like they're still available if you can't source one locally. https://www.ebay.com/i/264460358871?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264460358871&targetid=934793862176&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9008565&poi=&campaignid=10460107080&mkgroupid=106723174707&rlsatarget=pla-934793862176&abcId=2146001&merchantid=113613716&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fsnFoomhpGU_ZHHRbK5CmpL-LxTRPXGb-dFDufeT6EE0ghXgev3c3xoCErwQAvD_BwE WRT to your question regarding disc brakes on all 4 corners, you may need a larger bore MC (swapping reservoirs on your current 7/8 MC won't do anything.) Depending on which disc setup you choose for the rear (and also if you're considering swapping in larger front disc setup), you typically will need to upgrade the MC to 15/16 or 1". LOTS of good reading in the FAQs on this exact topic.
  13. Tony D

    9,000 rpm?

    Yep, you would be wrong. At least you're open to that idea. There is no reason whatsoever why an L28 isn't an 8,500-9,500 powerplant same as an L24. No "large bore" necessary, we were limited by class rules to no more than 3.0 and if anything we would have stroked it for power more than bore it. The L20A was pretty much capacity classed at 1998CC, needed stock bore and stroke on that one, and it went to well over 12,500 without any valvetrain issues whatsoever. The limitation is breathing ability of the head N/A moreso than anything in the bottom end. That's benchracing in the extreme. We built both the L28 and the L20A in a home garage in Clairmont, CA. The head work was farmed out, everything else save the balancing (which was done by Electronic Balancing in Long Beach, just down the road from the old Datsun Alley and with a nice view of the C17 taxing area at Long Beach Airport)... Fitting the pistons to the combustion chamber, pre-balancing weight matching, deburring, polishing or grinding internals, etc... all done at home with Sears Craftsman Tools and whatever I and Andy had kicking around our tool boxes.
  14. Hey on the brakes topic, do I or should I get larger reservoir cups for all disc? I don't have a pic but mine currently are one with a bulge to the front and ones just a cylinder. Thanks
  15. Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to go the route of the three way as pictured above, same at the rear where it splits. Pretty excited to run brake lines ha! Finally bolting stuff on rather than cutting out and welding.
  16. The switch has been NLA for years and the piston inside was frozen. So I replaced the brake switch on my 72 240z with a three way connector. See picture.
  17. Got the battery tray drawn up just need to toss it in the bender. Fingers crossed all my measurements are close enough.
  18. Welded up the sway bar mount this past weekend, going to take @calZ advice and put a tube in there then weld everything together, Ill also beef up the sides a bit.
  19. Last week
  20. Not sure if they are still selling, the website is up. Fitment was not as advertised, definitely takes a lot of work to make it fit anywhere close to as good as stock. Unfortunately they also shipped gloss finish even though matte was requested. So it created a lot more work to refinish. You do not want a shiny dashboard, seems not only like it would be annoying but unsafe.
  21. Pistons look exactly the same plus loads of other bits. Didn’t they use to call their engines spl also? I know they use to sell Kameari parts.
  22. Shout out to my man Stefan who gave me the Tip on this NOS Front Fender for sale. Actually it said NOS but, i'm not 100% sure. it has a weird Handpainted primer-layer on the outside, but other than that looks prety NOS. it's in perfect shape (aside from a few small storage dents and scratches), has absolutely no rust (Some very small surface rust spots) and looks straight After all that's exactly what i needed, so i don't really care if it was NOS or not and i just believe in it *lol* Had to test fit it of course but nothing seems wrong with it. Looks nice in my growing collection of Fenders. Why another one you might ask? The black set is quite rusty at the bottom and with the "golden" set i realized at some point that some of the previous owner thought it's super-nice to remove the original Line that is in the fenders to make a "smooth" look. And also they deleted the Holes for the 240Z emblem This is the new fender with the original line nicely visible and all factory holes are still there. So finally, one piece more in the puzzle
  23. I know their valves aren't Kameari. Maybe their springs?
  24. That's a good idea to straighten the tubing. I used a tubing straightener since I had multiple diameters of tubing I was working with including brake lines. It was just much easier to adjust to different sizes, not to mention it came out perfectly straight.
  25. The one on the right is a proportioning valve which, according to Motorsport is first found on 73s and which is normally located on the fire wall. The proportioning valve for a 71 is located in the back by the differential. On your 71 you should find the valve in the back connected to the T that splits the left and right brakes by an S shaped hardline.
  26. Do datsun spirit still use Kameari parts? they look exactly the same still. should mean that they're well proven parts.
  27. Yes, I am trying to keep some things original as possible. Back to Fuel Pump Modifications: After measure the tank depth and setting the pump length. the pump was installed. This pump can be rotated any direction that you prefer without drilling new mounting holes. Left to Right- Return Line, Fuel Feed Line and Vent Line. The pump mounting bolts were torqued to 50 in lbs in a Star Pattern and three increments. Using the Borescope, you can see the filter on the bottom of the tank inside the surge tank. View of upper side of Fuel Pump Because of the Fuel Pump location, the new Fuel Sender Unit had to be modified to clear the walls of the Surge Tank. Using a Vise Grip, the Float Arm was bent to clear the Surge Tank Walls. The Float Arm can be adjusted further after putting Fuel in the Tank and comparing Fuel Gauge reading, A 100 micro Inline Fuel Filter was installed between the Pump and EFI fuel Inlet. This Filter This Filter uses a Stainless Mesh Filter so it is reusable. A Two Piece Bracket is constructed to hold the Fuel Filter. It was made of 1/8" plate Steel. 4Life Nickel Copper Fuel Line 3/8" x 25 feet purchased from Amazon. Came by Federal Express in a small 18" x 18" x1" box in one big coil. Start by slowly unwinding the coil slowly keeping the roll as straight up and down as possible. When the roll is about 6 feet high, it is time to go outside. Use you feet to hold the lower part of the roll as you are unwinding and sliding your feet on the line. Keep going till the line is relatively straight. Cut the line in half to about 12 1/2 feet long to make it easier to handle. A straight piece of 1/2" electric conduit(about 7-8feet) was fastened to a portable work bench using two Vise Grips. The conduit should be small as possible for the best result. Sliding the tubing back and forth rotating the tubing at the same time. Eventually the tubing should come out relatively straight. Next Step to Make AN Fittings and Braided Steel Hose for the Fuel Lines. Happy Turkey Day to All!!! The bracket will be powercoated when completed.
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