https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-hr1100u

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-wca-1034

The old MSA door mirrors fell apart and I wanted to find a better replacement.  After doing some research I found that GM part #987460 refers to the classic chrome outside rearview door mirror used on 1955, 1956, and 1957 Chevrolet passenger cars would be a good fit.

I found a kit that provides both left and right mirrors at United Pacific:

Item No.110745

Exterior Mirror Bundle for 1955-1957 Chevy Passenger Car (Pair) which includes:

• ·        Polished stainless steel mirror head & chrome plated arm with identical design as original.
• ·       Convex mirror with wide angle optics for R/H side.

https://classic.upauto.com/exterior-mirror-bundle-for-1955-1957-chevy-passenger-car-pair-110745

I purchased the mirror kit at Amazon for $57.69

https://www.amazon.com/United-Pacific-110745-Exterior-Passenger/dp/B07CSM82R6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3D4VKZQDPPL45&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Ji_ewCdOZDHJk5NTl-hJJNFlKNsQBt5lpAOLKHcRoK31x-GRce_gxezK_VKJFo0J9IkZHkDcZBC1uO-yqa9wAikFa3d3ppFs1Z_e9oMH7GHS0hSYXVCL3mPH2KdHlNipyinC19rlSI2bJ2OSt4dOu31VkbQgttxV3F9sjOnvlwdEzUBrH0x35XHZypqXaZKhHaGVoA8HQfe6yph6tpYjD9i1U7980UgA3v1My4M_ZeA.60nOt1lFZGTfNCnWtHJyTgcmFLSL1-4Gz3NCXbznMr0&dib_tag=se&keywords=car+side+mirrors+chrome+metal&qid=1783662323&sprefix=car+side+mirrors+chrome+metal%2Caps%2C189&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.9fe8cbfa-bf43-43d1-a707-3f4e65a4b666

See pictures.

The parts I sell are in Mandan North Dakota. I can be contacted either thru a private message or you can email me at chaug@bis.midco.net or text me at seven zero one -471- fifteen thirtyfour. I sell the magnet for 35.00 and the breaker plate bearing retainer kit for 30.00. If you want both I can cut you a deal for $60.00. Shipping to the lower 48 USA is included in the prices.
I do ship international. I have sent Breaker Plate Repair Kits to Europe, New Zealand and Australia. Shipping for international has been in the $18.00 - 20.00 range

recycling can be instead filling up land fills with waste materials.

https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/prospex/special/datsun_limited/

I have a Ford 5.0L Z that I got running, but never reliably, and am now looking to turn attention back to it since there’s a lot of good work on it (photos attached). 
 

What I am thinking to do is go electric and could use some feedback and thoughts from those who have either done this or thought about it. 
 

My desires:

- Minimal hacking to subframe/body, keeping it longitudinal mount with the existing rear end (R200 3.7 CLSD) or swapping to a transverse setup only if there was something obvious/simple. 
- Target 50-65 kWh of battery and 225 kW or more (300hp to 450hp would be the sweet spot). 
- Try and keep the build under $20k and weight added under +200lbs vs current setup (Ford V8, T5, gas tank)

- 120mph top speed or more

These are the options that seem to be coming up highest on my list for motors:

1. Use the Lexus GS450H transmission. My understanding is this is 225 kW rated and can be bought for about $1500. Downside is the weight of the transmission is 250lbs+ and the gearing is a 2.29:1 with a 10,300rpm max. With my setup that would be around a 92mph top speed. This setup would also require welding MG1 and some other complexities. 
 

2. Use a Cascadia Motion IM-225DX-D and Torque Trends 1.9:1 reducer. This setup would get 225 kW and a 128mph top speed, but the motor is $14k MSRP and the gear box another $4k. I’ve found a wholesale motor/inverter for $5k but it wouldn’t be warranted. This setup seems objectively better than the Lexus setup but is a minimum $9k to just get going period. 

Any thoughts for motors?

For batteries:

I am thinking either to go with:

1. VW ID4 12S modules with 9 of them which is about 400 volts total and 61.2 kWh. The modules are relatively cheap around $750/ea but they are LG Chem cells and those packs have always been surrounded with the possibility of recall and fire. I am not sure how to do the BMS at all, and the interactions with the VCU/inverter so that’s another issue. 
 

2. Kore Power modules which are available in a 4S configuration. I would do 26 or so of them with chiller plates. Downside is cost close to $16k for the batteries, benefit is that there are integrations already for these packs and they’re meant to be used for kits. 
 

3. Do something with Tesla packs or other…

Any thoughts on batteries?

Thanks for the input!

Braap..dude with mice issue and subie..another guy with Porsche and testing..that caused strife..the other guy that tossed a beehive in his brothers friends car (I like that dude..had eyeball mostly in picture)

Another guy that was older? And got the turbo flywheel from. A kid local that I lent my snow tires too. 

A guy that had the sublime Z who and delivered for pepperidge farms. Hope he kept family together. 

I suck at names and only braaap I remember. 

Also..R200 is not strong enough 🤔😂 Y'all enforce spelling nazism👍😜

Many engineers.

SO! Why ami back? Finest sight for Z information.  My 83zx, 95k had sat for 12 years atleast while I was a father and husband first. My boy, now 19, inquired about my poor zx. I told him "you can buy it at cost of bringing it back to life and upgrades". 

Btw..I did not follow braaps advice and "pull into garage, remove radiator cap, pull car out and drive in a proper RWD car. I own 2 heavily restored 91&96 integras with serious modifications.  

Some of old chaps were old. I hope still alive.

I will use search option. Btw, obx sucks. Did modifications to quaife lsd for both my wrong cars and still unsatisfactory. My British replacements are magnificent at 35% more cost. 

Though hybridZ write up was awesome! 

I'm trying to determine if my engine is from an R33 or 34 cause, I have only one relay in my harness but, my ECM connector does'nt look like the pic. of the pin out of the R34 so, I'm a bit confused.

Edit: My part# is 23710 13V00 if anyone knows how to read that properly. When I checked some sites that showed how to read P/N's, the first two digits "23" means, electrical section 4: starter...

I have pulled the fsm up and traced pretty much everything, wired everything to the intermittent module, i get int, low, hi, but dont understand what i have to do to get the wipers to park themself.

Hazards work, turn signals don't.  I know, I know, use the search feature.  Did that and did some tracing.  I'm getting around 0.8v at the GY wire at the hazard switch junction, but then I go to the GY wire at the turn signal flasher unit, and nothing.  Signals work if I jump then at the Black C9 connector, but it seems I'm losing power somewhere along the line, and can't seem to figure it out.  Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems that the GY wire powers to signals, so I assume I'm losing power between the hazard switch and flasher unit for turn signals?  Does it go straight from the hazard switch to the turn signal flasher, or does it go back to connector C9 and then the flasher unit?

-Flak

Looking at their front and rear suspension parts.

I know a lot of wiper stuff has been covered at length, but I was curious about how to seamlessly integrate a Honda motor into the stock Z and wanted to understand the wiring circuit entirely. One little tidbit has been missed in a lot of this stuff.

From looking at the diagrams, what is interesting is that when the wipers are set to off, the polarity to the wiper motor is reversed. It then operates for a short time in reverse to fully park the wipers. It does this due to a little fact that the wipers will actually go lower when the motor is ran in reverse. I found this out on Zclub.net.

Heres' the quoted tidbit:

(reference: http://zclub.net/forum/showpost.php?s=7082a089822ad1081635656e790cb302&p=210942&postcount=9).

Final parking of the wiper arms. This is the clever bit which took me a while to work out. When the wipers are switched off the DC motor reverses it’s direction due to circuitry controlled by a relay strapped on to the side of the motor (this relay is used at other times too in the wiper operation). The linkage is attached to the motor via a short arm an eccentric cam bearing and coil spring. During normal operation the eccentric cam is in a position which has the effect of shortening the linkage, when the motor reverses the coil spring tightens due to the direction of travel, grips the eccentric cam, rotates it through 180’ and lengthens the linkage thus parking the wipers lower down the screen – clever eh? That’s why when switching to the off position the wiper always does a wipe – it’s to ‘park’ the wipers low down the screen. 

Now the problem is that on most cars (your’s? mine was) this coil spring will be broken and so the wipers will not park fully! If you position the wiper to park low down then this will become part of it’s normal sweep and so the other end of the sweep will be short!

On the internet sites I’ve looked at nobody understands the purpose of this broken spring and because the wipers work with it broken it’s overlooked.

While I haven't inspected my spring yet, I will do so soon as well as check if it does indeed park lower. But now came the thought about whether I should upgrade to the Honda motor or not. My wipers work fine albeit a little slowly. I feel now I'd rather have a little slow working wiper, but have them park lower. I feel if I use the Honda motor,  it would be guess work if the park lobes (internal contacts) are setup the same to allow the reverse park to happen.

But since I fully understand the circuit now, I figured I'd throw in a definitive answer on the best way to use the 260z or 280z with the intermittent function (as well as park, and low and high).

This diagram I found on here is correct for the hookup:

It's from a 76' 280z. Not my diagram, but kudos to BackDoorZ on here. 

Here's the Wiper FSM from 74 260z:

This diagram is annoyingly hard to follow since they label the wires by function instead of color.

The 6 wires going into the motor in the diagram and their respective colors are:

B (Battery?) - Blue/Red

P (Park?) - Yellow

2 (?) - Blue/White          (Yellow/Green on 77-78 280z)

E (earth) - Black 

H (High) - Blue/Yellow

L (Low) - Blue             -  (Yellow/Blue on 77-78 280z)

As a helper I believe the S and M switch is the internal lobe contacts in the stock wiper motor. S possibly meaning "stopped" and M "moving". 

Some notes:

The middle part of the switch shows that if the switch is in 'int'/low/high, then it sends ground down the 2 wire. This energizes a relay in the wiper motor that sets the polarity so that it's 12v on top and then gets ground for either the low or high speed windings out the bottom. Tricky part is that if you switch to the off position mid stroke, then the power to the relay is cut mid stroke, so how does it keep 12v on the top of the motor. Well, when it's mid stroke, the S/M wiper will be on M and connect ground to the P wire. But it also lets current flow throw the diode to ground (in the wiper motor) keeping that relay energized till the stroke is done. So now it's finished it's default power stroke. When it gets back to the S wiper, it will invert the power to the top of the motor (you can see the top of the motor connected directly to E (earth). If you Trace the L wire back through, you can it goes back through 3, then into the box, then out P and ultimately connects back to 12v causing the motor to turn in reverse for a given period. I take it the specific phasing and size of the low will determine how much it actually rotates back.

Here's the Honda (1997 accord, though I believe all the colors are the same):

Putting these 2 together is a little tricky, but let me explain why BackDoorZ's diagram above works. He notes in his post that the Blue/white wire is never hooked up to anything. This is because it's sole purpose is to invert the power to the stock motor.

The obvious:
Honda -      datsun      - function

Green/black - blue/red - this is constant 12v power. Basically always send power to one side of the motor.

Black - black - this is always ground

Blue - Blue - low speed wire. 

blue/yellow - blue/yellow - high speed wire.

Honda's blue/white wire basically outputs 12v when the wiper is parked, and it outputs ground when it's mid stroke.

By hooking this up to the yellow wire you get the intermittent and park to work.

Looking at the 'int' diagram for the datsun, observe the 2 pole to the left of the capacitors (C1, C2). When the intermittent box actuates, it basically connects ground (E) up to M, which if you trace it back through connects to the low speed side. It probably only does this for a short moment, but enough to get the wiper into motion. But when the int box kicks off, it basically connects the low speed wire up to the P (the Yellow wire). Connecting this to the honda blue/white wire assures that you will again provide ground to the low speed wire till the wiper parks.

I know that is really wordy, but the OCD in me wanted to get all these diagrams out there for those to see why it works or to troubleshoot issues. Can help with understanding why your stock circuit is acting up as well.

ps. if you want to understand how the pie piece works on the honda diagram, assume the large part of the pie rotates and it is ground, the left small pie piece is 12v and is stationary, and the middle contact connects rides on whichever one is below it.

If you don't feel comfortable to post this in a public forum, please send me a PM.

 

https://uncrate.com/autotype-dewey-nicks-flying-datsun-tee/