http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=77434

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=77651

Most people seem to just dump the original tach, but mine was still working fine, so I saw no reason to toss it. New 5" tachometers are a hundred bucks. The tach adapter from Summit is less than fifty.

Obviously, the tachometer signal on the MSD is something entirely different than the current triggered signal the OEM four-wire inductive loop thingy. The solution is an MSD Tach adapter. The confusion I ran into was which one to buy, and how to wire it, as the Z is just a tad different than the examples in MSD's diagrams, and all the people cheap enough to not just buy a compatible tach seem to be very poor at documenting how they get things to work.

The tach adapter you need is the 8920. NOT the 8910.

To wire it up:

Find the two ends of the tach inductive loop over near the coil. One wire is green/white, the other is black/white. I advise you to use something to check continuity and make sure you have the correct two wires, as they really aren't two wires, they're opposite ends of the SAME wire.

Remove the 8920 tach adapter from the package. Throw away the instruction sheet. Neither diagram applies to the Z.

It has four wires coming out of it:

Black - ground

white - trigger

Red - option1

violet - option2

Now, to get the tach working:

1. Take the black/white wire near the coil, and hook it up to an ignition switched 12V (hot when key is on).

2. Run the RED wire from the tach adapter and connect it to the green/white wire.

3. The white wire from the adapter goes to the MSD's tach output.

4. The black wire goes to ground.

That's it. That's all there is to it.

I'm trying to figure out the wiring before I get the engine in the car so the swap goes as quickly as possible. I've gone over the sticky as well as the more extensive and hidden version of the same thing.

Harness is from an 82/83 280ZXT and going into a '76 280Z

The diagrams and pictures I've seen have two plugs near the rubber firewall grommet, one for ignition (8 wire plug) and one for the fuel pump/fuel pump relay (6 wire plug). However, my harness has two 8 wire plugs, and the wires and colors do not match those of the diagrams I've seen. It doesn't even match the '83 FSM diagram. The person I bought the harness from labeled a couple wires in what seems to be the fuel pump and fuel pump relay plug harness, but I can't verify them obviously since the plugs and wire colors don't match what I've seen.

Diagram that has been referenced:

I'm also confused on the two wires that feed power to the EFI relay. They were connected to fusible links, but the sticky says stick them on the POS terminal of the starter. Shouldn't they be fed power after fuses? I'd assume I can hook them up to my fuses that are currently in the car (I did the maxifuse swap) but I'm not sure...

Also, I'm unsure about where to wire the power wires that are in the EFI relay loom. 1 constant 12v and 2 switched 12v. If anyone has done this swap and would like to guide me on where would be a good spot to do this please let me know.

Maybe I'm just thinking about this too much but I keep second guessing myself and running into weird issues like the plugs and wire colors not matching.

Pictures attached show the plugs in question.

This is really frustrating, because I think that this preventing me from having blinkers and there for I cannot get my car inspected. 

Long time lurker, first time caller. I have a 78' 280Z that I've been restoring for... years. I bought the car in south Ga in early 2014.

I have a motor built by Datsun Spirit, stage 4, and I'm trying to start it finally. I have the XDi crank trigger setup V1.8. I have everything wired like the manual says, I think. I'm not getting spark.

1. I've confirmed the dip switches: u, d, d, d, d, u, u, d.

2. The trigger wheel sensor is <0.06" from the 7.25" wheel. I have a flat tip sensor. The sensor mount is aluminum and is on the left side at about 9:30 position. 

3. I've grounded everything(DFU to engine block, XDi to battery and chassis).

4. I have the yellow 2 amp lead to the XDi powered from the yellow/black harness wire that is +12v run and start position, inline 2amp fuse. Spliced with a wire from 85 on 4 pin relay. I have a 10 amp fused line running to 30. I ran a ground wire to chassis and battery on 86. 87 goes to the DFU. I did the 4 pin relay wiring like so in the Electromotive manual:

I have +12v going into the XDI on yellow wire when the car is in run position. I have a green light on the XDi unit in run position. When in the start position I have a red light. I'm wondering if the DFU also needs to be grounded to the battery?

Can I eliminate the 4 pin relay above and try the system to see if I get spark? I am testing spark by using my timing light.

Thank for any help. Here's a photo for what it's worth.

Cheers,

Jason

Will a 2 wire magnetic reluctor that a 280Z uses, function as the trigger and what would the wiring be?

Crane box has a gray, white, and black wire that would normally go to the optic. What is the function of each wire ?

Nissan uses a ballast resistor on the ignition system of my 260. Can I just run the power wire to the coil directly and bypass this thing?

I have a 300ZX coil I could put in its place if I needed to. It just seems to me like getting rid of the resistor would be a good idea.

The 300zx ECU swap fo the L28ET was my biggest learning moment yet, and the confusion was due to mixed info online or across different diagrams.

This pinout sheet was built for my 1987 300zx Turbo ECU (a18-682 m92 California Manual). I used it to build my own harness.

"CC" is Check Connector, some form of OBD1, but I can't find much information on the Z31 usage. Everything seems biased towards the Z32.
 

In regards to the California spec ecu, I've only been able to find a wiring difference with the 1988-1989 ECU's which also use High Impedance injectors compared to low impedance from 1987 and lower. 

The '88 ECU adds Exhaust Gas Temp sensor wired to Pin 30 instead of Pin 30 going to the MAF. It also adds the ability to use the Automatic transmission version Throttle Position sensor + switch combo wired to Pin 110.

Hopefully this is able to help anyone doing this swap in the future.
I've added a photo below to see a preview before downloading the PDF. I added the PDF because my images were being compressed and it was hard to read.

87 Turbo Z31 Wiring Diagram.pdf

Thanks in advance,

Flak

I have a rebello engine I dropped in a 1977 280Z.

I’m trying to run the stock ignition coil to the distributor. From what I understand the distributor is pertonix as well. could I:

1. Wire the distributor directly to the ignition coil
Similar to 240Z wiring? Or

2. Use the same 280Z ignition wiring through the terminal block to the ignition unit under the dash?

Thanks!

Fast forward to today, injectors and radiator are installed, but my fuel pump and turn signals/hazards don't work now.  What happens is, the fuel pump will run every once in awhile, then when I try a turn signal, it all just shuts off.  Then the pump won't run and the pump relay doesn't click anymore when key is in on position.  My turn signals/hazards don't seem to work on their own anymore either.

I thought it was a battery charge/load issue, but I'm at 12.77v.  I also rechecked all the engine grounds, and they all seemed fine, but I redid them anyway.  My fuses are all good, and my fusible links are good too.  The EFI fusible link has 12v.  The fuel pump also runs when I power it directly.  I'm thinking it still might be a ground issue?  Maybe my fuel pump relay itself?

I am very familiar with heat soak, having experienced it last summer. Then my car would not start when hot, after sitting for a few minutes. I installed a switch on the starter solenoid, to allow me to manually prime the pump/fuel rail, and voila I was able to start no matter how hot the engine got.

My symptoms now do not seem to fit with heat soak, as the car does not need to sit at all for the problem to occur. I turn it off and try to start it 1 second later and it will not start. The only time when I was able to get it to restart was when I instantly restarted it before the engine had even stopped spinning.

I am able to start the car if I spray some starter fluid into the intake manifold, and initially get it running on that. Then the car will start, but obviously stumble a bit at the beginning. This leads me to think that the fuel is fine, and not vaporizing. Just for further information, I also have constant 30+ psi at the rail while I am trying this.

Due to the fact that the car can start on starter fluid and then run, I think that something electrical that is only engaged in the "start" circuit may be overheating and failing.

One thing that comes to mind is that maybe the Fuel Pump Control Relay is not functioning correctly, as it receives its 12 volt signal through a different input on the start cycle (I believe this is to bypass the Oil Pressure Sending Unit kill switch when starting). The power then goes out to the fuel pump relay, and to the pump and the air regulator.

I have tried testing the Fuel Pump Control Relay according to the FSM, and could not get it to test out right, but that was before this problem arose, so I attributed it to an error on my part, or an incorrect procedure being listed in the FSM, as I found the problem I was having at the time, and it was not related to the relay.

One test I can attempt would be to hot wire the fuel pump to see if it will start when hot, but I am not sure if the injectors are firing correctly either. I still have to test them with a noid light.

All that I am fairly sure of is that it is something screwed up/overheating in the start circuit. I am studying the FSM and wiring diagrams, and also getting what I can from Blue's Tech Tip EFI Bible, so I am sure that if it is something electrical I will find it sooner or later, but any suggestion that could expedite the process would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I did try starting it with the cold start valve disconnected, and still had the same problem. Unfortunately I don't think it is anything as simple as that.

I had almost awakened my beast from it's slumber.  Attached are photos of the bay.  It is a 1978 280z.  The p/o of my car was making a "racecar.". Therefore, he ripped out all of the a/c components and all of the vapor/vacuum stuff.  I plan on daily driving this car here is PA.  I do plan on putting a/c back in, so I know I need to put back in the vacuum "water bottle" and solenoids on the pass. fender near the links.

My main question is, however: am I good to start her up with the stuff I have capped/deleted?  I have read many posts about egr delete, csv/aar delete (although I may need that back for pa winters), and the charcoal canister delete.  Although, I have been reading up on a pcv (?) Valve that I couldn't find much info on.  I would love any insight if I missed anything or need to reinstall any vacuum components to daily drive it with the best health of the car.

Hopefully this is specific enough and not just another, "what vacuum components can I delete" post.

Thanks in advance guys, these forums have been a lifesaver to a new mechanic like me.

Thanks

Putting the engine back together on my 1978 280z.  Backtracking through the FSM's section on engine removal, I have come to a step marked as "remove the wire to the distributor condenser connector."  I have the female bullet connector on my wiring harness, but can't find what/where the distributor condenser is.  Looking online, I find basic distributor condensers, but none have the bullet connector that needs to be plugged in.

Thanks in advance.

Looking for some suggestions on troubleshooting my headlights.  I have the Dapper LED 7's. They worked great until very recently, the low beam and high beam would only work intermittently which was an issue pre-dapper.  The tail lights, parking lights, turn signals, marker lights and all interior lights work great but the lo/hi have now ceased functioning.  I have since following datsundave's videos and have completely cleaned the combo switch/turn signal.  Much crisper now but still no hi/lo.  

-No power to the two headlight fuses on the fuse block.

-Headlight fusible link is receiving 12v on both ends.

-When manually adding a separate external 12v source of power, the hi/lo work great.

-I have cleaned various connectors as related to the headlights on the wiring diagram.

Suggestions?

TIA

*edit; I have replaced all fuses according to FSM

Thanks

Thanks, Elliot.

Replacing my stock fan with a Honda Civic fan one.  So far not working but  I have a red wire (shown in picture) that I can not find a location to plug back into.  It wasn't plugged into anything when I took it apart.   Could be the reason why my stock fan wasn't working in the first place along with the heater assembly lights.  The map light works as it is connect to different wiring harness.   Is this red wire used for power and if so where does it plug into, I can't seem to find it's partner unless it is a blue wire, if so which one?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,

Zell

Anyone has encountered such situation and can share how to resolve this issue? I appreciate the help!!

I took the stock alternator down and it tested bad at the parts store, so I ordered a rebuilt replacement and installed it. It still didnt charge the battery, I swapped 2 other old external voltage regulators that I had on different parts cars and still no charge at battery (guess they could have all been bad). The reman alternator was putting out like 40 volts out of the back of it ,seems like a bit much.

Changed plans and returned that first reman alternator and decided to go with the 280ZX alternator upgrade instead. I installed the 280ZX alternator and I also bought the little diode plug adapter from Z Car source and plugged it into my factory harness..I'm getting around 16 volts off the alternator now but it's not charging the battery only getting like 11.9 volts at the battery.  Has anyone ran into this issue? What could be going wrong here? Advice would be much appreciated.