i just want to tell ya dont be a moron like me. lol.. take some notes.

1st off dont try and build more then one car at a time.. might sound fun but really it isnt. Its a TON of work and it takes all your time.

if your like me and you want to drive your cars more then work on them, then start with the basics. do things to your Z's (or any car) that can be done in a day or a weekend. ENJOY driving them, see what each mod effects the car and your driving style.

when something big needs to be done like swap in your SBC LS1 or L28ET in your 240Z, have ALL the needed parts at hand and ready. it makes things alot easier.

ALSO.. this is a big one because i mess up on this all the time.

DONT open up your parts as soon as you get them and start fiddling with them, i mean inspect them and then put them back in the box or wrapper.

you can loose key parts from that part and then when it comes time to install that part 6 months later you cant find this and that.

IT SUCKS!

BUY good parts the 1st time, dont skimp out just because you dont have the cash now.. wait a few weeks or months to buy the good version, it will save you lots of time in the long run.

ALWAYS research the part and or swap you want to do before you just jump right into it. You might find (just like me and prob alot other people) that it might not have been what you wanted to do really, they can be cheaper/better ways to build your dream Z car.

respect and listen to the older/wiser guys on this forum, its AMAZING how much they know. And its not because they know everything and there saying your dumb, its because they have done EXACTLY what your doing now and have gone through the same problems you are now. so listen up!

Always remember that just because somebody hasnt done it yet (or atleast you dont think somebody has) that its always do-able, but respect and understand how much you can do and will do. dont try and do something thats just simply out of your league.. it will just piss you off and ruin the whole car building exsperance (sp? i cant spell for shat).

Simple most the time is better, dont try and go over board all the time.

i mean its nice to just go crazy at time, but if your young and this is your only car and dont have crazy money then stick to simple.

you can build a FAST Z car with simple and easy mods.

dont exspect that you can build/paint/modify a crazy fast and nice Z in a few months.. unless your chip foose it just wont happen. if more so if your young and only have little income. like i said before, take your time and read up. your gonna change your mind 1000000000000000000 times before you really do the mods/swap.

and the biggest thing i wanna say..

HAVE FUN.. thats the reason your building a Z anways right.

sorry to rant just wanted to say a few things.

mike

If the one you see is not available, wait an hour and check back.

In all my reading I'm continually baffled and don't want to ask what something means. Maybe when I have a question I'll just post it on this same thread.

Please add along if you've got others I'm sure there are.

AFM = Air Flow Meter

CDI = Capacitive Discharge Ignition

COP = coil on plug

CTS = Coolant Temprature Sensor

EBC = Electronic Boost Control

EDI(S) = Electronic Distributorless Ignition, add an "S" and it stands for System

EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation

FI = Fuel injection

HO2S = Heated Oxygen Sensor

HP = Horse Power

IAC = Idle Air Control

IAT = Intake Temp Sensor

IC = Intercooler

MAF = Mass Air Flow (meter/sensor)

MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure

More Rust than Mull = Huge Amount of Rust

MS = Mega Squirt

MSnS-E = MegasSquirt n Spark-Extra

NA = Normally Aspirated

O2S = Oxygen Sensor

OHC = Over Head Cam

PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation

SBC = Small Block Chevy

SBF = Small Block Ford

TB = Throttle Body

TPS =Throttle Postion sensor

LCA = lower control arm

UCA = upper control arm

TC rod = tension compression rod or strut rod

SFC = subframe connector

L28E=Naturally Aspirated 2.8 Liter 6 Cylinder L series Found in 280Z

L28ET=TurboCharged 2.8 Liter 6 Cylinder L series Found in 280ZX

L28et=FI (forced induction in this case, not fuel injected-that one can get confusing really quickly-the t on that motor is for turbo)

E=EFI Motor Used on the end of Motor type (Eg l28E)

L26E=Naturally Aspirated 2.6 Liter 6 Cylinder L series Found in 260Z

L26=Naturally Aspirated 2.6 Liter 6 Cylinder L series Found in 260Z

L24=Naturally Aspirated 2.4 Liter 6 Cylinder L series Found in 240Z

VG30et=Z31 (chassis code for early 300zx) single cam turbo engine among others in the non-us market

VG30dett=Z32 (chassis code for late 300zx) twin cam/twin turbo and possibly other models in non-us market

Rb20/5/6det/tt= these engines came from various skyline models as well as some others, generally nissan nomenclature works like this: the number is the liters (i.e. L28=2.8 liters) the e is overhead cam, de is dual overhead cam, and the number of t's indicates the number of turbos, but not always, as in the case of the Fj20e which is a twin cam that doesn't have the d in it.

2jzgte=supra twin turbo engine from the mark IV supra and possibly some others in the non-us market

1jzgte=single turbo variant of 2jzgte available in some non-us toyota models

7mgte=mark III supra single turbo engine

thanks.

Datsun 280, Nissan 300 ZX, Brian Long, 1999, Dorchester, Veloce Pub., ISBN: 1901295060

Datsun 280ZX, Model S130 Series, Nissan Judosha Kabushiki Kaisha, 1982, Tokyo, Japan, Nissan Motor Co.

Datsun/Nissan sports car buyer's guide, John Matras, 1996, Osceola, WI, Motorbooks International, ISBN: 0760301360

Datsun Z: from Fairlady to 280Z, Brian Long, 1998, Dorchester, England, Veloce Pub., ISBN: 1901295028

Datsun Z Series: the complete story, David Styles, 1996, Marlborough, Crowood Press, ISBN: 1861260016

Datsun Z-Cars - by the editors of Consumer Guide, 1981, Secaucus, NJ, Castle Books, ISBN: 0890094373

Essential Datsun Z, 240Z to 280ZX: the cars and their story, 1969-83, Colin Shipway, 1994, Bideford, Devon [England], Bay View Books, ISBN: 1870979516

How to Restore Your Datsun Z-car, Wick Humble, 1990, Tucson, AZ, Fisher Books, ISBN: 1555610269

How to Hotrod & Race Your Datsun. Bob Waar, Steve Smith, Bill Fisher, 1984 Rev. ed., Santa Ana, CA, Steve Smith Autosports Publications, ISBN: 0936834412

Illustrated Datsun/Nissan Sports Car Buyer's Guide, John Matras, 1996, Osceola, WI, Motorbooks International, ISBN: 0760301360

Lust, Then Love: the story of the new Z, Ron Sessions, 2002, Lincolnwood, IL, Publications International, ISBN: 0785375686

Nissan 300ZX, Ray Hutton, 1990, English, Motor Racing, ISBN: 0947981527

Nissan 300ZX, 350Z: the Z-car story, Brian Long, 2004, Dorchester: Veloce, ISBN: 1904788041

Nissan 300ZX & 350Z portfolio, 1984-2003, 2003, Surrey, England : Brooklands Books, Newport Beach, CA, Road & Track, ISBN: 1855206285: Collection of articles reprinted from Road & Track, August 1983--May 2003

Nissan 350Z: behind the resurrection of a legend, John Lamm, 2003, St. Paul, MN, Motorbooks International, ISBN: 0760315752

Road & Track on Datsun Z, 1970-1983, 1985, Cobham, Surrey, England, Brooklands Books, Newport Beach, CA., Distributed by Road & Track, ISBN: 0946489297

Z: 35 years of Nissan's sports car, Pete Evanow, 2005, St. Paul, MN., MBI Pub., ISBN: 0760321817

Z Car: a legend in its own time, Ben Millspaugh, 1991, Blue Ridge Summit, PA, TAB Books, ISBN: 083063536X

Z-series Datsuns: a collector's guide, Ray Hutton, 1985 2nd ed., Croydon: Motor Racing Publications, ISBN: 0947981020

Interlibrary Loan: When a book is not available at your local library, in most cases it can be ordered very easily from another library through Interlibrary Loan. Just take the information listed above and talk to a librarian. It might have taken a week or two but I obtained all of these books this way. It is possible (but quite rare) to be asked to pay the postage to ship the book from another library. Virtually all libraries are connected to WorldCat, which is a searchable online database of the libraries that own a particular title. Easy.