For area 1, what have people done?   I was thinking of getting set screws in the threaded holes and welding closed.  But what about the large recess?  I really don't want to fill it in with Bondo.  Maybe just fill in the threaded holes and leave the area recessed?

Same questions for area 2.

Pictures would be really nice.

Thanks

To minimize warping would you cut the hole before or after welding? 

Don't need full penetration so I'll use whatever thinest filler wire I have on hand and control the heat the best I can. 

Im in the middle of adding a turbo to my 1984 Maxima Wagon. Im using the stock manifold and turbo and I bought the stock DP thinking I had read it would fit. Well it does not. It hits my steering shaft. No big deal, Ill just make a DP.  Does anybody have the drawing for the flange?  I know its different then other T3's  15 years ago or so there was a group buy on cnc laser/plasma cut stainless steel flanges which I had one but then sold. So I'm assuming the drawing is out there.  I can draw it up but if someone has it I can send it to my friend and have him cut one out for me while I'm at work.  

Thanks for your help

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good welder/shop that can replace my floorpans?  I've called a few, and I seem to be running into a lot of "we're booked for at least a year out" and "we don't do that level of work anymore" responses. I'm hesitant to go to just any shop that says "yeah, bring it by, we can do it" without any sort of visibility into what they've done in the past - don't want my new (to me) car to be ruined because someone was afraid to say they didn't know how to do it the right way.  

I'm in the north bay, but I can tow to east or south bay as needed; finding a good shop is more important than finding a cheap or close one. 

Thanks in advance!

Would like an AC capable unit. 

Prefer to have 120-220 volt option, also would prefer a relatively portable size, not one of those that you need a flatbed to carry about.

Budget $1000 I think at the moment, kind of excludes me from the blue and red.

Units on my list are the Eastwood digital and Everlast 185DV

The Eastwood manual has also caught my eye, it is really really affordable, makes it pretty tempting.

Your thoughts would be appreciated. 

https://www.kett-tool.com/products/AN2000

Also, do you guys hop in the car when its up on the rotisserie? There are a few things I need to get to.

Thanks!

Parts used:

Woodward UA113109 Datsun U joint

DD shaft

Dorman 614-001 uni-fit cv joint boot (autozone)...2 if you want to put one on the inside of the firewall also to dress it up

Hose clamp

ROL exhaust tubing 548510 (O'Reillys)

2 R18Z bearings (Ebay)

Saturn Vue steering column with metal control box (not plastic one) 2002-2007

Bruno controller (Ebay) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Saturn-Vue-Chevy-Equinox-electric-power-steering-controller-EPAS-/122354361512?hash=item1c7ce364a8:g:I7AAAOSw0cdZfi49&vxp=mtr

Hardened bolt for set screw

5/8 outer snap ring (Ace Hardware)

Miscellaneous parts:

primer, paint, bolts, welding wire, flat bar, etc.

I got the woodward UA113109 universal joint to connect to the Datsun rack and convert it to DD steering rod.

Has anyone done this before, and if so, did you run into any issues?

It would be incredibly difficult to get a file in and clearance the roof support where it's rubbing the roof support, but I guess anything is possible.

Thanks!

Noah

I fully backpurged my downpipe from tacks to welding but man that took a lot of argon. 

For the midpipe back does it really matter so much? Specifically for tacks, I'd still be doing backpurge on the full weld-out

Anyone have any experience or pictures where the scoop is welded to the fender?   Obviously there would be a chance to warp the metal.  But given they are tightly bolted together, curved surfaces, and it's a flanged butt joint, seems like it would be fairly resistant to warping.  Seems straightforward to jump around making a lot of tack welds, grind smooth and finish with a skim coat of filler.

But I wanted to get some opinions.  Any pictures would be great.

Thanks in advance.

It is only about 15X the size of hybridZ.

Sign up and the forum doubles in size.

EVERYTHING you wanted to know about fabrication, sheetmetal forming, welding, and tons of other metal stuff.

Just wanted to give y'all the heads-up...

However, I saw some 1/16" silicon bronze filler at the store and thought maybe that would work better since brazing wouldn't require melting the base metal which looks to be quite thin so I picked up some rods. 

Has anyone brazed over rust pinholes and how did that work out for you? I was thinking of keeping it simple tig brazing, grind down, then epoxy seal and filler over that. Since I would be using the tig I figured I could run maybe 20 amps and prevent distortion, blowing holes, bubbling paont, etc. Just enough heat to open the pores of the base metal and braze in the pinholes. Any holes (no pun intended) in my strategy? 

Picture attached for the worst of it. 

I’m running the triple dcoe cannon intake with a MSA header. The intake manifold and the exhaust header are sharing the same stud along with the same washer. There is a difference of about .2000” between them. I bought stepped washers from zcar depot but they aren’t deep enough. Anyone with the same setup, what did you use that was thick enough to grind down? 

thanks!

Does anyone have recommendations on where the best places to order are in 2021? 

Thanks!

I thought some of you might like to see

the the reinforcement I’m working on to rebuild my rusted out rocker. I have the “slip on” rocker cover for asthetics, but the inside will be home made. 
 

I have prepared a vertical rib (14 gauge) which will go down the centerline of the rocker and serve as the surface for jacking the car, and where both the floor pan and slip-on rocker will weld to. Between the inner axial rib and inner rocker, I have welded in additional ribbing to resist shear (20 gauge). I will add additional 20 gauge ribbing between the axial rib and the outer rocker. 
 

Just an engineer geeking out. I’m sure there is a lighter, more efficient design but I’m having fun. 

I fabricated a battery holder for my Braille unit last weekend. Sits in the passenger “hump” right behind where the passenger seat would sit. 
 

Made from 20 gauge 304SS. Made some minor measurements to get started, but used the battery as a template for most of the cuts and marking the bend seams. I don’t have metal brake, so I just used a straight-edge, various hammers (including a 2lb sledge) and locking clamps. As some of you have experienced, SS is much less pliable than mild cold-rolled steel, so it does take some elbow grease. I used a DA sander to debur the edges and get a consistent brushed finish. I’d say I did an OK job. It’s not great but it’s solid and should last forever. Only about $10 in raw materials. 

I didn’t want an 11lb projectile if I got in an accident, so I secured it to the body using tack welded nuts on the underbody, and eight 1/4” bolts to hold it down. I picked the location to keep the CG low, and as far back as possible. I considered putting her near the fuel cell, but I prefer the weight slightly in front of the rear wheel vs behind at a higher elevation. 
 

some of the gap you see between the battery and the holder will be padded with a thin sheet of EPDM to cushion and eliminate any rattle. 
 

as always, open to your thoughts and criticism! 

Just trying to get the process right - the design will changed.

Just wanted to share the progress.

Would other people be more interested in straight reproductions? Or custom creations?

Thanks for the feedback.