Looking for a set of bolt in brackets / sliders for driver and passenger.

Anyone have a good source??

Thanks all!

Is this even possible to have this many bad clocks. Am I not doing something right when I put them in, Do I need to hit them first or something.

And yes, I checked to see if I was getting power at the plugs;-)

I had the idea because I wanted to make a integrated 52mm gauge pod that sat right between the Tach and Speedo, and the column cover I had was in pretty rough shape. I haven't decided if I would print the gauge pod version as a single piece or print them as two separate pieces and join them after. 

I will be 3d printing them in PETG and would plan on could either sell them raw, finish them in an oem like paint, fabric wrap, or flock. The prototype pictured below was printed at the lowest quality so the final products will just need to some light sanding and paint to look like oem. 

If you are interested let me know what you would want and how you might want it finished
Upper Cover

Lower Cover

Gauge pod to mount onto an existing cover

Upper Cover with integrated gauge pod

Finish options
Raw

Paint
Fabric Wrap (Vinyl would be easiest, leather/microsuede might not stretch enough)

Flock

Im thinking rough cost would be around $50-75 for the column covers, $25 for the gauge pod. Probably a little more for fabric wrapping. 

If I can cover the cost of the time I spent making these models I could start producing other small parts as well. I already have a rough 3d model for the lower steering column cover created. 

One item I could not find any information on at all were the mounting dimensions of the RS Mach Steering wheel. I believe in period this was a competition option, with the thicker wheel material and 380mm diameter often seen on the s30 and Hako Skylines. 

It seems the RS Mach wheel mounts more like the JDM s30 wheel compared to the deeper dish of the USDM wheel. Potentially I may machine a spacer to move the wheel further out but will see when I get everything back together. I know for the JDM s30 wheels it is popular to modify the turn signal stalk to account for the difference in wheel depth. I am also around 6' tall so also likely dimensionally different than the typical JDM person in period. 

Hopefully this helps someone. There is plenty of information out there for Checkman, Nardi, JDM s30 types, etc. types but nothing on this item. 

Edit: someone sent me some information and perhaps the Nissan comp part # was 48400-E4110. Apparently there were a few types of this wheel available, it would be good to know all of the variations but that'll be future research. 

Specifically this is going into my HybridZ, a 1973 240z which is a triple carb blowthrough turbocharged L running a FMIC, oil cooler, and retaining the stock hood springs and front valence. Factory dash, radio, and gauge mounting. Nissan Versa EPS. Wizard cooling AL rad with dual Spal fans. The same concepts would apply for any Z install, but packaging considerations may differ. 

Each post will focus on a specific aspect so hopefully it'll be easier to digest for the DIYer. I'll attempt to edit and add more details over time. 

Controls:

What I found researching is most either discard their OEM controls, or perform a partial retrofit where some OE levers are used, OE lever throws may be incorrect, and it seems everyone modifies their OE housing to accept an aftermarket blower switch. I wanted retain the full look and feel of the OEM HVAC controls including the OE blower switch and levers + lever throws. 

It's important to note that the Vintage Air unit I selected uses 4 switches. I also included the Vintage Air part #'s used as applicable: 

1. Fan (Off, Low, Med, High) - Rotary (OEM Switch Used) 

2. AC Thermostat (Off -> Cold) - Linear (11088-VUT)

3. Heater Temp (Off -> Hot) - Linear (11212-SUA)

4. Mode (Defrost, Upper Vents, Lower Vents, Upper/Lower Bi-Level) - Linear (11430-VUS)

For functionality and less to remember in the car what I'm going for is when all levers are to the right AC Thermostat is Off, heater is Hot, Vents are Upper/Lower Bi-Level. When all levers are to the left AC Thermostat is On, heater is Off, Vents are Defrost. So basically all left Cold, all right Hot. Note that the wires on the Mode switch can easily be moved around for any custom order of control, but it's important to get the mounting orientation of the AC Thermostat (bimetal thermostat) and Heater (potentiometer) correct to where you want them. 

I used 1/16" AL and SS tig wire for the linkage rods. For the Mode select I added 2 detent positions for a total of 4 including the factory 2 (chamfer the new holes a bit where the bearing rides for positive engagement and smooth disengagement). For the AC Thermostat I added an overtravel stop on the left/off position as I noticed even the OE lever would overtravel and crack the hvac control panel on almost every panel I've inspected so consider that an improvement over stock 50 years later 😆. 

For the bracketry I used some Home Depot scrap AL L stock I had left over from my wife's garden. I'll get those dimensions later. 

In the videos everything is dry with no grease so while things are already smooth with no binding they will get much better on final assembly. My plan is to black zinc coat everything but the issue I am having now is finding someone local in the Bay Area CA who will do zinc black chromate for larger parts. So perhaps I will run it patina as I'd rather not paint and have the sliding/friction areas gum up the grease. 

Pictures attached detail the arrangement, clearances, and function. 

I am the seller. You guys can ask questions here or contact me by etsy as i check that more.

Original etsy listing here:

 https://www.etsy.com/listing/668444381/datsun-240z-260z-280z-sun-visor-bracket?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=car+sun+visor&ref=sr_gallery-1-5&frs=1

On a 71 240 Z I have, the piece that holds the sun visors in place that mounts beneath the rear view mirror, broke on the drivers side.   It was pretty annoying having the visor flop around, and I finally took the visor off until I could locate a replacement part.  

Searched all over the place for another, no luck.  Finally saw one on Etsy from a person who has a 3D printer named PlasticWiz, figured I'd give it a try.

Removed my old one, which basically disintegrated while trying to pop it loose from the vinyl covered roof frame.  Sanded the new ABS piece a bit and painted black.  I suppose the "print lines" could be removed completely with a lot of work, but for this car I just wanted a functional piece.

Here it is mounted ready to pop in the rear view mirror.

I've never used a 3D printed part on any of my cars, but I must say this really did the trick for a difficult part to find.

Anyway, just thought I'd post this since I couldn't find any recent help on this part.  I may order another for my other Z just in case...

I could either:

1) grind down the removable part of the mount.  This might not even totally fix the problem as the non removable part may also be interfering 

2) cut away the lower portion of the weatherstrip.  This should alleviate the fitment issue but that small (~2") length would not be attached to the body.

Has anyone else had this issue? 

I am in the process of putting my 280z back together after a ground up build.  I want to tint the windows.  Right now all the glass is out of the car.  My thought was that I should get the quarter windows and hatch glass tinted before install since they sit in a rubber gasket and it would look better if the tint went all the way to the edge, under the gasket.  I do worry, however, that putting the gaskets on and installing the glass after tinting may risk damaging the tint.  

Similar concern with the door glass, I would worry that if I had it tinted beforehand it would get scratched during install.  Much more worry than the quarter or hatch glass.

Wondering if anyone has input. 

Thanks

The other 350z seat install thread does a good job of showing one way to do it and it has good pictures of the seats in the car. So go here to see how others have done it.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/69503-my-350z-seat-installation/

That method keeps the 350z sliders in place then just weld a bar stock across then attach the 240z sliders. This adds some height to the seats and requires more welding for sure. IMO my method is much stronger/stiffer since the metal on the 350z sliders is really thin.

Since I'm 6'6 (220lbs) I wanted to get them as low as possible.

Here's the steps and pictures that explain what I did.

Remove the 350z sliders by cutting them in the right places. This was kind of a pain. Just cut where you need to pull them off. Should take two cuts per track.

I used some 1/8 x 2 flat bar steel stock cut to the proper width to span the width needed. Leave a little extra so you can weld on all sides. In the front this is very easy as its just flat. In the rear you can see that you need to bend it to match the butt pan of the 350z seat since it sits below the bottom of the metal sides. This is what makes the seats sit as low as possible. I used some scrap aluminum bar I had around to make a template. You'll need to match it pretty closely because the width the 240z seat tracks need to be puts them just outside the bends.

You will need to get the fore and aft spacing of the cross pieces correct on the seat so the seats sit as far back as possible. If you're tall and the only driver you have some error slack but since my wife is 5'4" and wants to drive the car it still needs to go as far forward too. It was actually different on mine because my passenger side seat tracks wouldn't go all the way back. So you can see in the pic the front cross piece is as far forward as possible. On the drivers side it was about 1" from the end of the 350z metal sides.

These seats sit as low as any seats could easily go without any structural mods. The original seats (minus the height adjusters) sit about the same height because they're very similar mounting. If you wanted them to sit higher just use the same height adjusters off the original seats. With my height I still have plently of room and could wear a helmet if I needed to. You'll need to do some trimming on the plastic side garnish pieces of the 350z seat as well to make it look factory and fit.

I'm using the 240sx rear seat belt mod for belts. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97131-fitting-240sx-nissan-retractable-seat-belts-in-the-s30.

I simply took the buckle from the 240sx and bolted it to where the old 350z buckle receiver went. If you're using your original 240z belts you should just be able to keep them bolted to the floor.

The old 90s civic blower fan upgrade is quickly becoming obsolete. The motors are available, but usually without fan and lets face it, many of the yards dont stock 80s and 90s cars so much anymore. So I went on the hunt, after once again reading the social media and internets myths regarding what will work.

It turns out KIA was a usable option with easy mods. I spent 2 days hunting through the wrecking yards in the Sacramento area searching for suitable blower motors. I hope this is helpful to you guys here.

S130, 280zx

07-09 Kia Sorento 6"(not the 5-7/8"). You will need to dremel the plastic housing for it to fit your box opening Approx 1/8". The plug will line up, however the polarity is reversed at the plug. The fan is the correct direction, so just swap your stock pins in the connector and plug in. One major note, the fan is about 1/4 shorter than the original, and you will want to make shift a spacer or 3d print a spacer and glue it in. I used double stick tape for now.

The fan mount holes are not the same diameter, so you will have to slot those out to the end to reuse the fasteners from your car. The second major note, the case also has the fan motor cooling port orientated so that it will bolt into the s130 blower box without the need to remove the fan duct!

S30 

03-06 KIA Sorento, Similar install to the 90s civic, dremel the opening for fitment. Fan fits nearly perfect. No need to slot the holes, it lines up really close. A couple of housings I have done required me to file the holes slightly. Get VDO brand aftermarket, itll be the right one. Its the correct depth and rotation. Grab the pigtail for early s30 models. Its been some time since I messed with late model S30(i.e. 280z), but the plug may or may not be the same, and itll be up to the installer to determine polarity at the connector so it spins the correct direction. I did have to dremel one of the housing nuts near the fan on almost all fo the housings. I tried 280z and 240z, same gig. Just knocked the edge of the nut back to clear the fan blade, since the fan is so much larger than the originals.

If I am not mistaken the original dash vent just butts up against the original AC housing and there is no tubing. I designed this adapter to be glued to the back of the dash vent which would allow the 2.5in hose to plug into the backside.

my set up will be installed into a custom carbon fiber dash insert. This allows me to mount the vent, new LED lights, my vintage AC controls, and potentially another gauge over the vent (I'm looking at a digital fuel pressure gauge). There is also a little overlap from my double din radio. Ill post more pictures once the glue dries and I get it installed. Let me know what yall think

First and most important facts:

the 280Z has only 17.5" of width in the driver side rear seat well, the 240 and 260 have 20" this is due to a hump in the side of the transmission tunnel that was used for a catalytic converter, From what I have read and have also confirmed on both my 78 and 76 280z is that the hump is there even if it is a Federal version car and didn't come with a cat

I am hoping others here who read this post and have done seat swaps in a 280Z can chime in and add to the list and maybe add some pictures and tell some stories of success or woe with what it took to get them installed, so here goes.

The 280Z seat swap list:

*Mazda Miata swaps of 1994, 2004, 2006, 2007

*Pontiac Fiero

Toyota Supra MK3 1988

Toyota Celica GT 2000 (required cat hump bashing)

Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 1992

Chevy Corvette C5, C6, Z06

RSX Type S 2000 (required cat hump bashing)

Honda S2000 (required cat hump bashing)

*Pontiac Solstice/Saturn Skye

Dodge Neon SRT4 (not for a tall person, sits too high for 6'-2")

1988 Subaru Legacy

Honda Prelude 1992-1996 also late 80's through 1991

I have put an (*) next to the ones that according to the owners were the least difficult to install

Please put the year of the vehicle if it is known.

Northeast people and other rust belt areas will have a hard time locating any cars beyond 12 years old as the junk yards generally crush anything older.

Thank you,

Greg