re-mapping and live tuning L28ET 1982/83 S130 ECCS

Mon, 02 Jul 2018 03:58:07 +0000

Edit for latest information;
See posts further down for full details on modifying 1982/83 ECCS for re-mapping and live tuning.

All information related to reproducing this project can be found on Github.

https://github.com/eccs-reengineering/280ZX-Turbo-ECCS

Datasheets and other files can also be found on my public google drive.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mRNbCs317YusVA-wutB3DW7AYV1MVt2l?usp=sharing

Original post;

Thought someone here might get a kick out of this.

I just dumped the ROM chips from my 1982 L28ET Manual & Automatic ECCS ECUs.
The only data I was able to identify was the timing and fuel maps.

The Ignition and Fueling map were identical between Auto and Manual ECUs. There were a few other bits of data that were different but I have not identified what they are.

I've attached the .bin file to this post if anyone wants to have a look.
1982 Manual Transmission ECU A18-601-042 2603
1982 Automatic Transmission ECU A18-602-043 2111

Here's some information I've learned about each component while figuring out how to read the ROMs.

The 1982 ECCS ECU; (note, 1982 and 1983 ECCS ECM's are interchangeable)
Hitachi HD46802P Motorola 6802 CPU varient

Motorola 6800 series was fairly common in the late 70's and 80s, disassembles are available although I have not had luck interpreting the code.

6800-series disassembler DASMx, http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/pclare/DASMx/

Hitachi HD46506 ADU (Analog Data Acquisition Unit)

I haven't been able to find any information about this chip other than what it is.

1K-byte 2708-type ROM

1024-word x 8-bits

Hitachi HN25089 DIP-24

Contains ignition&fuel map data similar to the design of the dual-chip Z31 & R31 ECCS units, the data is redundant and also contained in the main 8K-byte chip.

For more information, see 'The R31 Complication' at https://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php/ECU_Chipping

This 1K ROM can be removed, and the ECU will function with the single 8K ROM as long as the IC-3 HD47LS20P quad-NAND chip is moved from the daughter board to the main board.

8k-byte 2364-type ROM

8192-word x 8-bits

Hitachi HN48364P DIP-24

Contains all microcode, fuel and ignition maps are on the last 1K of address space.

I was able to rewire the 2364 ROM to read as a 2764-type ROM on a TL866 II+ programmer.

The adapter diagrams were found on Commedore 64 forums, they also use a DIP-24 2364-type ROM.
I have a 28C256 ROM functioning as a replacement with a C64 2364 adapter from Retro Innovations.

Attached to this post you'll find two dumps of 8KB bin files from the Manual and Automatic 1982 ECCS ECU's, as well as some representations of the ignition and fueling maps in LiveEdit as well as RomScan utilities.

1982MT_S130_A18-601-042.BIN

1982AT_S130_A18-602-043.BIN

Factory EMS from modern cars

Sun, 20 Aug 2023 16:06:39 +0000

Is there any factory system that easily goes on these motors?

Seems like an LS system can be moved over, as you can change cylinder count to 6 in the tune (btw the newer model atlas 4.2s used the same ECU).

Would be kind of hilarious though buying an LS just to take off the harness, sensors, coils etc and leave behind the V8, but it is cheaper and superior to most aftermarket offerings.

Speeduino

Mon, 13 Feb 2017 02:27:18 +0000

So, I have been a long time Megasquirt guy. I have been in the Megasquirt community since 2003. I am not leaving the Megasquirt community at all, but I am looking at a new brand of do it yourself type ecu. I was introduced to Speeduino about a month ago.

I have picked up a 0.3 board component kit and the Ardunio board for about $150 (I already had the map sensor.)

Bench tests look great. I am able to use Tunerstudio, and looks like autotune will work on this as well. Although the build is not on this thread, I will be testing this out on a turbo e34.

I was looking to see if any other Hybridz members had tried this out, and if they had any pointers.

Site for reference http://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/Speeduino

RusEfi Engine Management

Tue, 07 Apr 2020 15:24:07 +0000

So I've been working with this project for a few years now, and I think it's finally time to try and bring some attention to RusEfi.

RusEfi is a DIY ECU, not unlike megasquirt. The big difference, however, is that RusEfi is lower cost, uses modern, 32-bit microcontrollers, is completely open-source, and supports electronic throttle bodies.

Here's a recent demonstration video using 2x MicroRusEfi to control a BMW M73 V12.

From BMW, this engine was controlled using 2x 6-cylinder ECUs each with their own complement of sensors, including crank and camshaft position sensors. Now it is being controlled with 2x MicroRusEfi units, sharing sensor data via CANBUS, and controlling a pair of electronic throttle bodies.

Technically, MicroRusEfi is currently intended for a 4-cylinder engine, but it has 6 ignition outputs and ETB support, so here we are ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

If you have any questions, feel free to ask in this thread or check out any of the links below. We have a pretty active Slack channel as well, for ECU development as well as installation help, project planning, general engine theory, and whatever else.

https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi

https://github.com/rusefi/hw_microRusEfi

https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi_documentation/wiki/microRusEfi_DIY_TLDR

https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1632

EDIT: MicroRusEfi is intended for 4-cylinder and simple 6-cylinder engines, which would work well for the L-series crowd quite nicely, IMO. Of course if you want more, there are several more feature-rich models being developed that you can run right now, supporting up to 12 sequential cylinders with dual electronic throttle bodies (the ECU that should really be running this v12)

Alpha-N, MAF, MAP explained

Sat, 22 Dec 2018 13:10:55 +0000

Maybe this has been posted before but I haven't seen it. This is one of the clearest explanations I have come upon so I thought it would be appreciated. The whole thread is here, https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/531905-alpha-n-explained.html

But here is the meat and potatoes,

Alpha-N Explained!

Many posts on this forum discuss what what Alpha-N is. Some accurate, some not. It is common on S62’s so I think its important to discuss and that accurate information is widely available. I will try my best to stick to strict terminology here.

I’ll first talk about Alpha-N and then talk about how it relates to S62’s (to the extent of my knowledge of S62’s, because Alpha-N and how its actually working on the S62 is more nuanced). I’ll use real world examples also.

Before I start discussing what Alpha-N is, let me explain what Alpha-N isn’t.

Alpha-N by itself is not a “tune” and its not better or worse inherently by itself. It has specific applications and benefits/drawbacks just like anything else.

Alpha-N is nothing more than a method to calculate engine flow. Thats it. The ability to properly calibrate an engine or “tune” is entirely dependent on the ECU’s ability to calculate the flow of air through the engine at any given tiny interval of time. The more accurately the ECU can do this and the smaller the time interval it can update this flow number, the better.

What do I mean by “Flow”? The ECU’s job is not to calculate the volume of air flowing through an engine. Technically its job isn’t even to calculate the mass of air flowing into the engine. Its job is to calculate the mass of Oxygen flowing into the engine. That only makes up about ~21% of the air in the atmosphere here on planet earth. This composition can slightly vary. Oxygen is the reactant thats used with fuel during combustion.

That is where we convert chemical potential energy into usable heat energy. The more heat energy combustion generates, the more average force it applies on the piston through the relevant time interval and well…you can take it from there.

How does the ECU calculate the amount of oxygen flying through it?

Two things: Sensors and Assumptions. In reality everything is based on assumptions at a certain extent.

A lot of load calculation by the ECU is done by assumptions. Now, a lot of people are saying

“Stop right there, how can that be a good thing? That can’t be an accurate method can it?”.

It can and it is...IF its done correctly.

Assuming everything is working right, ECU’s make assumptions about things that they don’t expect to change and make measurements (with sensors) of things that are expected to change.

A big example of an “assumption” the ECU makes is injector flow. An ECU is programmed to know that its injectors will ALWAYS flow a certain amount of a fuel when it commands a certain pulse width. It makes this assumption because it doesn’t expect the fuel pressure or injectors to change. If those two things do not change then the ECU can always assume that at a certain pulse width the flow will be a certain mass of fuel. If you change the injectors or fuel pressure, it makes its assumptions inaccurate. It will get different fuel flow for the same injector pulse width as before. As a result in closed loop, your trims will start to change to adjust for this. Your WOT AFR’s will be different too. If you had a fuel flow sensor, then you can program an ECU so that a change in the fuel system can be accounted for. The S62 ECU and most ECU’s however do not expect the fuel system to change because thats modification and so therefore do not need sensors to take measurements. They can get away with assuming its an unchanging variable.

That is the entire point of “tuning”. Tuning is done when you change things the ECU assumes shouldn’t change though not exclusively. That is fuel flow or airflow. With enough sensors and advanced enough software you can make a self-tuning ECU and that is actually not that difficult to program.

Anyway, lets continue:

An example of something thats measured with a sensor is mass air flow via voltage. An ECU has a MAF flow curve that tells it at Voltage=X then Flow=Y. In reality however this too is kind of an assumption. What can cause this assumption to be inaccurate? A leak after the sensor perhaps, or maybe buildup of any insulating residue on the wire in the MAF sensor. You’re measuring it, but you’re also assuming that you have no leaks or any other factors that can change. As I said before, we’re assuming everything is working properly.

A MAF sensor is one way to account for changes in the atmosphere that matter. A MAF sensor accounts for air density (which is affected by pressure and temperature). That is how it determines the mass/time of flow.

If you increase the flow of air through the wire, it cools it. If you flow the same volume of air but increase density (either by pressure or temperature) then the wire once again gets cooler as the air becomes more thermally conductive so it pulls heat away. All of these things affect the voltage and therefore the MAF sensor can account for the mass of air flowing through at a pretty astonishing accuracy in steady-state conditions.

The best part of a MAF sensor is that it not only accounts for atmospheric changes, but it directly sees the amount of air your engine is pulling in. Open the throttle further? More voltage. Increase RPM? More voltage.

In fact, accounting for atmospheric changes is REALLY easy no matter what you do: MAF, MAP, or Alpha-N.

The beauty of a MAF is that it accounts for changes in engine VE and that is why its so common on street cars for emissions.

For example, clogged air filters change engine VE. A change in engine VE always requires a re-tune on a MAP sensor setup or Alpha-N, otherwise fuel trims start to wander and lambda control becomes less consistent. On street cars, many of which are neglected, a MAF is an amazing way to make sure the car drives good and keeps AFR’s at the stable Lambda=1 regardless of whats happening.

Lets continue:

A quick note: A MAF cannot really account for oxygen content, but thats okay. Atmospheric Oxygen content hardly varies and we can leave that to an assumption because it will lead to unnoticeable margins of error.

Continuing on:

There is another entirely different method of calculating airflow and this type of calculation is called “Volumetric Efficiency”.

A MAF sensor system doesn’t care about volumetric efficiency of an engine. Whatever the engine flows is what it flows and that will be measured by the MAF. When you don’t have a MAF and you’re not measuring flow…you need to somehow come up with a value of flow using more indirect methods.

These indirect methods are not inherently less accurate or less capable. It all depends on how they are done in practice.

The two ways I’m talking about are using a TPS or a MAP sensor. The former method is commonly known as Alpha-N and the latter is known as Speed-Density.

Lets take a step back and look at how they work on a fundamental level.

If you run an engine at a certain throttle angle opening and then run it at a certain RPM, its flow VOLUME will ALWAYS be the same assuming nothing else changes. If you take an engine and create a certain pressure in its manifold at a certain RPM, it will always flow the same in those characteristics assuming nothing else changes.

So what we can do is start building tables in the ECU basically that say this:

If Manifold Pressure=X AND RPM=Y THEN VE %=Z

with Alpha-N its the same thing except:

If Throttle Angle=X AND RPM=Y THEN VE %=Z

This is VE tuning. You have to measure the VE in as many possible combinations of engine operations as you can. The finer you go, the higher the resolution and the more accurate it is. For example you can measure VE in increments of 100RPM or increments of 10RPM. You can measure VE in increments of 1 PSI of pressure or every .1 PSI of pressure. You can measure VE in increments of 1% throttle angles or 10% throttle angles. A table of VE can be lets say…32x32 cells. Thats a resolution that gives you 32 increments of RPM and 32 increments of your controlling sensor which is a TPS for Alpha-N or manifold pressure for speed density. Anything in between can be interpolated or the closest cell is used so margin of error is within tolerances.

This can be used to to calculate the VOLUME of airflow at any RPM and throttle angle. Part of the work is done.

So how do we get mass? Easy, an IAT sensor and Barometric pressure sensor.

Our formula can look more like this now:

If Throttle Angle=X AND RPM=Y AND IAT=A AND Pressure=B THEN Mass flow = some value of mass/time.

you can also rewrite it to be

If Throttle Angle=X AND RPM=Y THEN VE %=Z and then take the Z value and correct that volume to temperature and pressure to find density. From there you get mass. It doesn’t matter what order, the logic works here.

Now lets to get to when Alpha-N is better and when MAP is better.

Alpha-N works just fine for NA and SC’d engines. The reason is because flow of the supercharger is constant and directly related to RPM so we can make an assumption about that without actively measuring it on the street just like a naturally aspirated engine. It can get a bit complicated during rapid acceleration of RPM, but it still works within tolerances.

On a turbocharger, boost changes all the time and is not consistent at all with throttle so making assumptions is impractical (but no impossible, with enough sensors you can do it). Thats why MAP sensors are used for turbos. A MAF also works for this, but due to a very long and complicated reason, in my opinion a MAP is better for turbochargers.

Using a MAP sensor on an S62 would actually be a challenge at partial throttle. S62’s do not really have an accurate vacuum source that can be used to reference engine load. A MAP sensor can certainly be used at WOT for boost, but Alpha-N or a MAF is the only option at partial throttle. This is clearly proven by the fact that M5 owners with FI are seeing boost registered in their sensors located AFTER the throttle even at light acceleration and load. This clearly means a MAP cannot be used realistically.

Real race cars using Alpha-N generally don’t have “closed loop” with O2’s. Street cars do and IMO a more accurate way of calling it would be MAFless. O2s are a big deal. Just like with a MAF sensor, the O2s can actively check AFR and make corrections for stability during part throttle operations.

Now lets move on to S62’s.

S62’s (as far as the evidence has pointed) still use O2s to make corrections in Alpha-N operation. With a MAF system, the ECU takes a reading of flow, then provides fuel and then sees feedback from the O2 to oscillate at the stoichiometric lambda. With Alpha-N the ECU uses its formulas (or you can call them look-up tables) to deliver fuel in the same way and then checks accuracy from the O2 sensors.

The downside to Alpha-N (and MAP sensors) is that ANY change at all to the engine will toss its VE assumptions and can lead to drivability problems if they are big changes. With Alpha-N the engine has no idea if you changed a flow characteristic. A MAF is a lot more tolerant of that because any change that changes flow will affect voltage and the ECU can see that to appropriately compensate. That is why fuel trims don’t really change as the weather changes or when you install mods on a MAF car.

On an Alpha-N car, every modification you do or even a clogged filter will blindside the ECU.

For example on a MAF car, I can take my S62 and add a completely overhauled exhaust with headers, X-Pipe, wider piping and higher flow cats. I can also installed bored throttles, better stacks, less restrictive filters…etc. It doesn’t matter what I change before or after the MAF. The MAF measures flow and the car will start right up and drive even though I may have just drastically changed the VE at every RPM and throttle combination.

On an Alpha-N car you might have horrible drivability if the changes are large enough and it may require quite some work to model the air flow. The ECU does not know whats going on and therefore must be calibrated. By the way, on an exclusively MAP sensor based ECU, the same rules apply.

Also, I do not know if S62’s have ambient pressure sensors, but that is okay because pressure really doesn’t THAT much. The main contributor to air density changes from weather is temperature anyway. In my opinion, an IAT is enough.

Ambient pressure can change a lot between regions (mainly altitude), but not usually so much in a single region so that can accounted for in custom tuning much like your modifications.

To summarize, if Alpha-N is done correctly then there is no problem or worry in running it. It works just fine for a naturally aspirated or supercharged engine. There is no inherent deficiency in this system over a MAF sensor for this type of engine. The key words are that it has to be done right and that is entirely dependent on the tune itself.

Let me know if you have any questions.

kjbruckner, liquidsmoke, Rontgen and 3 others like this.

SOLD: 2000-BMW-E39-540i/Biarritz-Blue/Gray-Interior/Black-Trim/Sports Package/6-Speed/DSP.
Powertrain: TTFS Stage-2 VF-Engineering Supercharger | Dinan Manifold | Magnaflow 16858 Exhaust & X-Pipe | High-Flow Cats.
Suspension: ECSTuning Cup Kit (Koni Yellow/H&R 50464) | BF-Goodrich Comp-2 A/S.
Cosmetic: Front & Rear M-Tech Bumpers | Slimmbones Finned Rear Diffuser | Piano Black Interior Trim/Style 37's.
Extra: S62 Clutch & PPlate | AEM 320 Fuel Pump | AEM Wideband/Boost Failsafe | E60 SSK | ZHP Knob | CDV Delete | Blitzsafe Aux | Wolverine Pan Heater

Current: 2001-BMW-E39-M5/Carbon-Black/Silverstone-Interior/Sport Seats/M-Audio
Powertrain: Dinan Exhaust

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What EMS system to use for RB26DETT

Sun, 28 Feb 2016 07:24:58 +0000

Building an R34 RB26DETT with an NEO R34 Transmission to put in my 1972 Nissan Fairlady 240Z. I am not a car guru or anything like that, I just trust the technical information in this forum. Can some one suggest what EMS system to use. I've been considering buying the APEXI Power FC, it has a corded controller to program engine performance. Haltech and others need a computer hookup and software to program. I don't know what information I need to supply about the engine upgrades to make this determination. New Tomei Turbos 8260's, Okeida Plasma coil Packs, 800cc injectors, 1mm oversized valves, Nismo N1 crankshaft, Tomei exhaust manifolds and dump pipes, 90mm throttle body, New Intake, Fuel rails, Bosch high flow fuel pumps X2, looking to get between 5-600 horsepower. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Write-up on how to chip Z31 ecu???

Sun, 22 Nov 2015 04:12:28 +0000

Evening gents...

I thought I would have a greater response on the z31performance site (http://z31performance.com/showthread.php?25303-Chipping-86-ecu-to-convert-to-turbo&p=375142#post375142), but it turn out not so.

Anyway, I have an 86 ecu out of a z31 n/a auto. I was hoping to re-chip and reprogram it for turbo. I wanted to go down path Afshin's documented (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/26230-z31300zx-ecumaf-to-280zxt-swap-guide/).

Could/would anyone suggest a write-up for this conversion?

So far, from what I gather through various sources...

I can chip the ecu in this manner...

1) remove prom chips IC4 (28-pin) and IC5 (24-pin).

2) jump J3 to J4. any other mods?

3) burn an at29c256 chip with the turbo map (burn the map onto the last portion of the 32K or double the BIN).

4) drop it into the IC4 location.

Are there any corrections/suggestions to my plan?

I have a moates chip burner, and a couple at29c256 chips in hand. Again, my goal is to use this ecu with a l28et.

TIA.

AEM Series 2 Honda box for V8

Tue, 01 Sep 2015 22:02:24 +0000

I read on XJared's S130 VK56 build over on the Nicoclub that he used an AEM Honda 30-1050U box to get his car running and I see a local classified ad for a Series 2 Honda box. I'm wondering if it will work, seller doesn't remember exact model number just that is a series 2 (as evidenced by the physical ecu box labeling); the AEM website lists the following as specs:

Wondering if this would work for my VK56 S30 project that I am currently (slowly) working on? I can't PM XJared on Nicoforums because I don't have enough posts to enable the feature. I did post on his build thread asking about this possibilities but I thought I would post here as well since I am sure some of you are way beyond me in ECU/ECM knowledge and capabilities.

I don't see any problems where it will handle 12 injectors and 8 direct fire coils. I'd feel better about bugging the seller anymore about the price, and driving the hour to get it, if I knew for sure I could make it work. I also know one of the local custom shops mentioned they have worked with AEM boxes while tuning on their dyno but they don't sell them directly. Thanks!

4 barrel TBI EFI systems

Mon, 14 Jul 2014 02:34:31 +0000

Has anyone used one of the many new TBI 4 barrel EFI systems? I am really curious how these are working with the L series engines and 4 barrel manifolds. Holley, Fast, Edelbrock, and MSD all make them and many more. Most are not boost applicable but MSD just came out with one called atomic EFI that will support 525hp and up to 14psi of boost! I am Zless at the moment but would really like to try this route once I get another Z. Just curious if anyone has had any experience with these "easy" to use systems.

Nistune Questions: Get them answered here

Fri, 07 Aug 2009 18:45:26 +0000

I have noticed a number of people that have questions about Nistune. I would like to help those who have questions or need anything cleared up.

I will do my best to answer these questions and if I do not know the answer, I will try to find it.

Thanks for taking time to read this.

-Andy (Xylemer)

RB efi system retrofitted on a L28ET ?

Sat, 05 Oct 2013 14:12:34 +0000

Just out of curiosity, I remembered reading about a Z18ET with a CA18DET efi system (http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=27957&hilit=ca18det+cas) so i was thinking if maybe the efi system off a rb25det could be retrofitted to a L28ET?

The CA and RB engines are basically the same right? And there are similarities between the Z engine and the L engine...

One would need the CAS, the maf, coilpacks with ptu, tps or the whole throttlebody for that matter, an o2 sensor.... anything else ?

If anybody wonders why i'm thinking this way it's because I'm looking for cheaper alternatives to a full standalone engine management, plus I like the challenge of doing somthing not commonly done. I'm not saying that a complete rb efi setup plus nistune will be cheaper than a aftermarket system but it doesn't hurt to check it out I think.

I know some people swap the ecu on the L28ET for a Z31 unit and swap the CAS disk from the VG dizzy into the L dizzy, but I have a eurospec L28ET which is about the dumbest thing around and is fuel only with no cas or any sort of ignition controll...

That means for the Z31 conversion I would need to get a hold of a complete Z31 efi setup also, which I can't find, but RB parts and wiring are easier found I see on ebay f.ex...

Fuel only computers

Mon, 07 Oct 2013 21:46:25 +0000

Are they worth it?

I'm looking for a way to upgrade my efi system for smoother and better driveability as I find the 30 year old efi system is kinda rough...

I was thinking of going full standalone engine managament but that's gonna break my wallet, so I see there are some manufacturers providing fuel only controllers, like the microtech lt-4 for example.

I was just wondering if something like that would be enough, I'm not gonna do to much in terms of modifying my engine, just install a new turbo off a rb25 and an intercooler system. So I guess I will be needing slightly more fuel.

Trouble shooting Z31 ecu install

Wed, 28 Aug 2013 22:23:49 +0000

I have an 88 turbo ecu that has been tuned by. Set up for 500cc injectors and to run a z32 maf.

Installing on a L26 motor that has P90 head, shneider reground cam. Car has 8.5 to 1 compression. Drove the car for the last 5 months on stock 83 ecu, stock injectors. Ran ok would not run on over 6 lbs boost above 4000 rpm.

With the new injectors I soldered in new wire connectors. I installed the chopper wheel from a 300zx turbo distributor and installed it the same way it came out, unless the prior owner had it out and was in upside down to start with. I installed the z32 maf wired the same way that a cobra maf would. Victor said he took care of the resistors at the plug in side to take care of the difference in volts 2-7 compared to 0-5.

I plugged the computer in , attempted to start and it did not start. Checked for fuel and have pressure on the fuel rail. Pulled a plug to see if gas was present after attempting to start and it smells like gas with some wetness to the plug. I here clicking coming from the injector solenoids.

I then check for spark at the plug. I DO NOT HAVE SPARK. I pulled the coil wire off the distributor and no fire there either. Now I drove this car last Saturday and started this install that afternoon. Nothing has changed.

I checked the computer and I have power at the pin 35, 27 when ignition is on. 35 is suppose to be the C.A.S. and 27 is for afm. Now, Pins 8 and 17 are also for the C.A.S. but do not have power when the ignition is on.

Why do I not have spark from the coil?

Z31 ECU questions

Sun, 11 Aug 2013 21:28:40 +0000

OK,

I purchased this ecu , 88 turbo model. I am going to install into my 74 260z that has a running working 83 ecu/turbo installed.

I sent this out to a person that says they know how to tune this ecu. I gave them the parts list that I am either installing on my car, (500cc inj, Z32 maf will be installed) or currently running Schneiders 270-60F-14 camshaft, 2 1/2 in exhaust. intercooler.

Well after much ado I got the ecu back.

Does anyone have pictures of the inside of the ecu. Just don't know if he did anything and with the lack of communication and excuses just a little concerned.

Alternative ECU - Anyone tried this and have any luck?

Thu, 20 Dec 2012 00:26:29 +0000

I searched, but didn't see that anyone else has tried this - but my search might not have returned everything.

Anyone try this option and what were your results?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PFFC15

It looks to be an exchange process, where you send them your working ECU and you recieve this re-mapped ECU.

I'm interested in this b/c it would be a simple plug-n-play, no muss, no fuss (I'm assuming).

Let me know what you guys think.

-Green Goblin

gotech mf1-x wirining problems

Fri, 05 Oct 2012 08:38:42 +0000

This is the issue i'm having. I don't know how to wire up my turbo distributor. Been reading the Mega Squirt website and i got a link back to hybrid Z because I can't find any information from Gotech. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=23244 And here's a picture from the manual. I just don't know what else to try. Thanks for your help

vipec runing well on home tune/not dynoed yet

Sat, 19 Jun 2010 17:20:40 +0000

switched from megasquirt to vipec.meagsquirt=long story.anyway vipec-after about an hour driving with the autotune on it made its own daily driver program.software basically is operated like windows.downside-the v44 is only has enough outputs to run a 6cylwasted spark.the v88 can run full sequential put you pay more for it.i run a v44 and i am running very few of the available functions.but the boost control and idle will be working soon.along with a/c request.another plus is it runs on usb port

PLX sm-afr Wideband AFR system

Tue, 24 Jul 2012 14:26:07 +0000

I was wondering if anybody has used the narrowband output to feed the narrowband zirconia O2 input of an ecu, stock or otherwise and had it work well?

I was also wondering if any manufacturer can do this for the titania sensors that nissan ecus feed a 1v reference instead of the industry standard 5v ref.

VIPEC is here...

Sat, 24 Jan 2009 08:04:16 +0000

a friend of mine going KA24ET with a big HX35 is going with VIPEC.

apparently it's got the berries! the auto-tune feature is intuitive, and from what I hear it uses the same internals as a LinkECU G4.

check it!

NisTune (SR20DET Tune)

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 18:00:27 +0000

I'm just going to start off by saying THANK YOU to the Chris and Mark over at DC Performance!! Those guys are stand up people! I can't recommend them enough if you're looking for a place to get your car tuned. I wish there were more places like this.

On to the car . . .

73' 240Z

SR20DET 94' Black Top

Front Mount Intercooler

Extended Intake with Apexi Filter

Z32 MAF

GT2871R .64AR

740CC Tomei Injectors

300ZX Fuel Filter

Megan Racing SS Exhaust Header

Greddy Turbo Elbow

3' Exhaust straight pipe to Megan Racing 3.5" Muffler

Stock Bottom End

Stock Head

Stock Head Gasket

Nis-Tune Onboard DaughterBoard

Apexi ACV-R Boost Controller

Walbro 255 Fuel Pump

Nismo FPR

BKR7E Plugs at 0.32"

Well, this thing was a little hard to tune and that makes my love for DC even more so!! We had some problems with my fuel pressure and then a few problems with the MAF (turned out to be my smart ass unplugging the SAFC controller HAHA). But, throughout it all the runs were good and I think we eaked out everything we could. I was largely imnpressed with their work and their easy going attitude. I've never had my car tuned and I couldn't have asked for a better outcome from Chris. (I also noted, that the problem with the boost may have been due to my intercooler piping actually not tightened down all the way. This was my mistake and I felt pretty stupid after getting home and doing my final inspection.)

I couldn't believe how out of their way these guys went. I had my car towed out there by AAA and while I was there they bought me lunch and dinner. (I tried to buy them food but they weren't having it) After all the tuning was completed I called AAA to have my car towed back to my house (Its torn apart and not safe for the road quite yet) but AAA said I was limited to one tow a day for one car! I argued with AAA for about 1 hour, and they wouldn't budge. I was going to have to pay over $300 to have my car towed back to my house!! Then, without even giving it a second thought, Mark offered up a free tow from AAA on his account.

This was not something I was expecting to happen and I INSISTED that they let me buy them a late late dinner. So, 3 In-N-Out #1's later we finally had a AAA tow truck pick up my car and drive me back to my place. I can not tell you how grateful I am to Mark for the free tow, as well as Chris for the awesome work he did.

If you are looking to have any tuning done, I would recommend Dc performance in a heartbeat! They made the entire day a GREAT one and made my first ever tune awesome! Thanks again to you both!

Z31 electronics in an L28ET

Fri, 28 Oct 2011 03:06:40 +0000

I am looking to do an L28ET swap into a 280z. I have read many other threads about every thing i need out of a turbo 280zx but then i found out about the Z31 ecu, maf, and cas swap. I know that i can use any Z31 cas as long as i have the 82-83 distributor and i am considering using a Z31 harness. So my questions are:

Do i need the Z31t ecu/maf or will an n/a ones work?

If i do need the Z31t ecu/maf, are the wiring harnesses different?

I ask because i have never seen a Z31t in any local junk yard or on craigslist around here, but n/a's seem to be everywhere. Also any wiring diagrams for a 78 280z, 83 280zxt, or 84-86 300zx or zxt would be greatly appreciated.

FAST XFi 2.0 System...

Sat, 17 Sep 2011 15:28:41 +0000

So I'm not happy with my fuel delivery on the datsun right now, primarely because of its lack of consistancy... Welcome to old school Holley/Mallory fuel deliver right? Don't get me wrong, the carb I'm using is probably the best I've ever had on a car, but now the regulator is giving me fits and letting me down... And I'm sure then it'll be "something else"... So I'm going to move BACK to my cutler intake manifold and 42# injectors/1000CFM TB. Since I have the hardware, and now that I've found I have a FAST beta tester withing an hour of me (EB3 motorsports), I'm thinking I'll go the FAST XFi route, since I can also use their traction control system and the advantages of their 3d programing and direct scale tuning cell by cell. Anyone here have any experience? The owner of EB3 showed me some of his 228MPH passes on his 1/4 mile car and I was amazed at the level of detail and tunability. I figure I'll have about $2500 in the system, but when I swap over to an LSx platform, I'll already have the computer and some support stuff, and just transfer it all over...

I really need to start going thru the garage and putting some of this "other" stuff up forsale so I can make more room...

Mike

87T with 87 N/A ECU with NISTUNE

Tue, 13 Sep 2011 21:21:11 +0000

I'm hoping someone here can help me out. Iâ€™ve looked for about 2 weeks now and canâ€™t find the pin out to a 1987 300zx NA ECU. I have found turbo pin outs and z32s but no 87 NA.

Hear lies my situation. I've got an 87 VG30DET TURBO. We installed HKS intercooler, 60mm TB, 2 flexalight fans, greedy boost controller. Ran the stock ECU for 2 yr everything ran great at 12lb. 6 months ago I wanted more. We through on 550cc injectors, 6262 Precision turbo, custom fuel rail, custom turbo manifold, Teil waste gate and BOV and Nistune then deleted all the emissions. During the Nistune install they said the 87T ECU went bad or something to that effect so we sent them an 87 NA ECU. Install tested good. Dropped it in the car and had a lot of idling issues. Found out we needed to use the 87 N/A Idler control valve. Replaced and it now runs a little better. Car still stutters at 2500 and during cruzing. Will wiring back in the O2 fix this? Iâ€™m trying to insure I donâ€™t mess something up by plugging back in the O2 censer. The wires are the same color but not sure about the pin out on the ECU Side.

I also had plans on running a Z32 MAF but im now told you have to do something else inside the ECU IOT run this MAF. If this is true does anyone know the limits for the stock Z31 MAF.

Fuel adjustment for stock EFI?

Tue, 16 Aug 2011 03:37:51 +0000

I'm about to get a 3.1L project running and know that stock EFI is not optimal. I ran into the item listed below and am curious about it. The question is whether there's anything valid about using this type of device, or if it can't make a complex enough 'map' to run as well as something else. I certainly have doubts about such a 'quick fix' solution, and am interested in whether anyone here has actual experience with one. Outside that, I'm leaning toward SDS, at this point.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-Control-Box-Nissan-Datsun-Toyota-Supra-Mazda-BMW-/380151907169?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5882d1c361

http://www.hiperformancestore.com/fuelinjectors.htm

Quote from ad:

"The old L-Jetronic system is an analog fuel injection system. This means it has no software to chip, flash, or reprogram. It can not take advantage of the mass air flow conversion kits out there as they only work on digital systems. With an old analog system like L-Jetronic, it's all in the hardware. For years those of us wanting to change the fuel curves on L-Jetronic cars had few choices. One popular choice was sending the ECU to a specialist for adjustments. This cost about $400 and involved a certain amount of risk to the ECU as the units are very delicate when they are apart. Hairline cracks in the boards and loosened solder joints were common on these boxes. The worst part was you had to send it back in every time you made a big change to the motor. Finally someone has an inexpensive and ADJUSTABLE solution.

Our new product allows excellent control of the fuel system. It DOES NOT make L-Jet as good as a modern injection system like Gotech, SDS, Motec, etc. However it does allow enough control over the fuel curve to handle about 5 pounds of boost with stock fuel injectors and 10 pounds with Stage 2 injectors.

If you want to avoid the hassle of upgrading to modern injection. Or you just feel comfortable with the reliability of the stock injection system then this product is for you.

Two factors can be adjusted. You can control exactly when the system signals the ECU to send in more fuel and you can alter how much extra fuel is added. The amount of fuel is not infinitely adjustable however we include 25 settings which will provide enough range of adjustment for almost everyone. The device on my car is set to trigger at 5500rpm and adds enough fuel to handle 10 pounds of boost on my 2.5 with Stage 2 injectors. Without the device the car starts to lean out at 5500 rpm and would be dangerously lean by 6000 rpm. Now at 5500 the car accelerates noticeably harder and the mixture stays in line up to 6500+ rpm.

Installation is simple and only requires one wire on the car to be cut. It does not require removal of the ECU, soldering or anything else. It's very small and can be hidden anywhere. Even in plain view nobody notices it."

Stock AFM --> MAF conversion

Tue, 28 Apr 2009 19:28:31 +0000

I found out about this on a BMW website (www.teamdfl.com/bmw/e28/induction/maf.html), then I called Modern Performance at (732) 222-3679 in West Long Branch, NJ, to ask if they could develop a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) conversion for the 280Z-280ZX, and he told me they already have it! The price includes the MAF, cone air filter, and a piggyback computer which can control other things (like additional injectors, etc., etc.) in addition to converting the signals from the new MAF into signals the Datsun ECU can use.

I've been looking for something like this for a long time, because the idea of having the restriction of the Air Flow Meter flap (vane) in the intake tract has always bothered me. I KNOW it HAS to be holding this good Datsun engine back, in terms of power and response.

Modern Performance's e-mail address is mp23cc@aol.com I was unable to find a website for them. I spoke briefly on the phone to a very friendly, informative guy at the above number. He should be willing and able to answer all your questions by e-mail or phone.

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