I'm looking for two of the side-connecting terminals / connectors to replace the factory connections to my fuel level sender.  I've found a source but I'd need to send a check or money order to order them.  It seems unlikely that this type of connector was proprietary to Nissan for this connection and that I'm simply missing the right search term to find them elsewhere.  I'm not in dire need of the rubber hoods shown in my attached image.

Thx for any help,

njm

Some have told me that Impreza steeringrack is bolt on.

Other suggestions would be appreciaded.

This is one example...https://www.ebay.com/itm/267627181622?fits=Year%3A1972|Model%3A240Z|Make%3ADatsun&_skw=1972+datsun+240z+distributor&itmmeta=01KS609334BMNDG6SQPEXJ2WPW&hash=item3e4fd2b636:g:i2gAAeSwv3JpP9Bg&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA4GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCZFTsqk1wCfZxWigdcmX0XDhm1WxeuopSJRVFVYwR7vzCp3dgITRsa%2FtpNpgGA7S2utrSz48bi%2Fm5AqybeXcQq7DNrJwQlPMNFAB2A9rDqVL1PO5IvRtExdam2bfStFns7mL%2F5x4503h2KnNP6R2VglM632Qwgy%2B%2FG43C4mKBODcB21sKSV39rQ2yzuQuTt%2B5%2B9b9agmnubn3RYTbwWDzDd64%2FoE1VfrVbUreXHiV3mSdQoR66QLjRSpBBt0P%2BKPmRimZDyT5TPotpVMrOqB5j|tkp%3ABk9SR5KypMDJZw

I have a 1972 240z with an L28 engine (F54/P90) but my distributor is shot.  The side to side play in the shaft is remarkable is a very bad way.  So much so that I cannot set the points gap reliably.  I disassembled it and did a thorough cleaning thinking that might help but to no avail.  Anyway, I was looking for a replacement and found the EBAY offerings but I could not find any reviews etc.  I also found the Ignition123 options but they are a bit on the pricey side.    if you have any experience that you can share I would appreciate your comments.

Thanks.

This was my starting point:

Nick

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-345/

Thank you!

Videos (2) click below

(14) Facebook

Under load when driving it seems to get going ok above 2,000rpm (if that is even accurate) and it will wind around to 6,000rpm etc when WOT. Since the tach is "functional" I guess it might be an electrical signal/strength issue but I honestly don't know where to look, this car is new to me.  Thanks in advance for any help.

I spend the last few days cleaning the electrical connections and timing the ignition again as it was out of spec. The car runs way better but the AFR gauge still shows 11,5 at idle. I'd like to bring that down (or up depending how you look at it) to 14,7 as the car stinks of gas. The previous owner mentioned that that was the reason it didn't pass inspection (auction company didn't mention that). I tried messing with the idle air mixture screw but that didn't help. When turning clockwise a bunch the car did start to run richer but when turning anti clockwise it didn't get past 11,5 AFR.

Does anybody have any tips or things I should look at? The AFR does seem to be working alright as far as I can tell.

I did notice the ignition coil is a 1,5 ohm unit with a total resistance of 2 ohm with the external resistor. I believe it needs to be closer to 1 ohm total so I'll probably replace the coil.

I just thought I would share my experience troubleshooting a problem with my headlights. Basically, all of my lights were functional, except my headlights were not working. My first step was obviously to check the fuse. No such luck that it would be that easy. Next, I checked voltage at the fusible link. Voltage checked out.

I busted out my test light and started probing at the plugs in front of the radiator on the lower support. Make sure that the headlight switch is on before testing. No voltage coming through.

I did a bunch of testing in the junction block, but what I tested next is probably a better place to start. Pop the steering wheel cover off and expose the headlight switch. There is a brass colored box on top of the base of the headlight/wiper switch. It should have a couple of smaller green wires, a larger white with red stripe and a larger solid red.

Touch the white/red with a test light and make sure that it has voltage. This wire is direct from the fusible link, and if the link has power, it should as well. If not, the problem is in the wiring from the fusible link.

Next, with the headlight switch turned on, touch the solid red wire with the test light. If it doesn't light up, your switch is dead as it was in my case. You can also do a continuity test between white/red and red. No continuity with switch off, continuity with switch on is normal. No continuity with switch on is bad.

I was able to find a '77 scrap car and pulled the combination switch assembly for $5 or so, not bad. I brought it home and did a continuity test between the white/red and solid red with the switch turned "on". Got continuity, switch is good. The connectors didn't match up with mine ('76), so I cut the box off both the donor assembly(good) and my assembly(bad).

Then, I spliced the wires together. I did electrical tape the connections (not in picture).

Once all back together, I gave it a shot and sure enough, the headlights worked!

To summarize, the wiring goes like this: Battery -> Fusible Links -> Headlight Switch -> Fuse block -> Headlights - And that is the order I would perform checks in.

I am in the process of adding several updated accessories to my original-owner S30.  In particular: power windows, Vintage Air A/C system and RetroSound Motor 4 radio with quad speakers.  I've already installed Dave Irwin's headlight relay system to take that load off the combo switch.  I have a rebuilt 280ZX alternator from MSA to supply power once the Optima red top kicks things off.

With all these new accessories, it occurs to me that perhaps I don't want to be chopping into the existing dash harness wires to provide them with power.  So I'm thinking about installing positive and negative busbars on the interior firewall that I can hook up to as needed.

Is this a wise idea?  Has anyone ever done this mod and, if so, what parts did you use and where did you locate them?

Pros:

1. Bodywork done - "12k, 1 year spent at body shop to cut out all rust and install new metal"

2. Modifications: Small block chev. 600 lift Roller cam, Gold roller rockers,202 aluminum heads, MSD ignition&box, H.P electric full pump, 150 shot NOS system (Not used). Purge lighting built 700R Trans&Convertor, B.M. Shifter, I.R.S. 3.9 Gears Custom built half shafts (Good for 600HP), New weather stripping/INT/Roll Bar.

3. Looks on pictures that it's done right - looks like a very clean install

Con:

1. Sat for 10 years since 2015, 3000km after the build (Drove the F-type jag he got instead).  Apparently just started couple of times a year to keep things "lubed".  Recommends all fluids changed, brakes bled etc before driving - so I won't get to test drive it and make sure everything's working properly before I buy it.

Looking for recommendations on what to look out for, and key things to prep to get it ready to get back on the road. 

Here is a link to my member intro thread where I detail getting the car.

Anywho, I just picked up my 1974 260z Sunday, complete with recently rebuilt L28 and carbs, and a bunch of other extras. The plan for now is to get it drivable ASAP, then work on the body and such on the go. For now I'll stick with the carb'd L28, but eventually I'll be doing a full megasquirt holset turbo build.

All I got around to doing this weekend was cleaning up the clutch and flywheel from the oil that leaked all over the place while it was on end in storage. I also played around a little with the shifter. Something's not quite right there, even with a washer shimming it...

List of things to do short term:

- Source bolts and such to mate engine and tranny, and install on chassis.

- Source whatever I need for the clutch system - throwout arm and bushing, m&s cylinders, etc.

- Drop gas tank and clean it and fuel lines

- Check, clean, and refresh brake system

- Start cleaning up the carbs

Does anybody know where to buy a full lock kit with matching keys? So that’s for the doors, hatch and ignition. Or can I rekey the original locks?

I can’t seem to find matching locks online but I did find lock sets for Datsun 720, 510 and 280zx. Does anybody know if I can make one fit a 1977 280z?

With these LED headlights the current draw is significantly lower than the stock headlight current draw. This means I can use the stock 240Z wiring harness by swapping two wires in the headlight switches. This swap changes the polarity needed for the LED headlights. I was going to use the Hella H4 headlights and did test them, but it would have required a new headlight harness to handle the increased current draw.

Here are the different headlights I tested and amp draw.

Here is the 240Z light switch modification that’s required to switch the headlight plug polarity for the LED headlights. This wiring modification is completely reversible. You will need the following materials.

Materials needed:

1.       ATO fuse holder with wiring extension

2.       15 amp ATO Fuse

3.       14 Gauge jumper wire

4.       2 Female bullet connectors

5.       2 Male bullet connectors

6.       Voltmeter or Test Light for testing

LED Jumper Wiring Modification with ATO Fuse Holder

Wiring Procedure: (Pictures below)

1.       Remove the steering column cover.

2.       Unplug the Black wires from the Lower Headlight Switch and the High Low Switch.

3.       Unplug the Red wires from the Upper Headlight Switch and the wire that runs to the headlight fuse block. This is the red common connection to the LH and RH Headlight fuses.

4.       Connect the Red wire from the Upper Headlight Switch to one side of the ATO fuse holder. Note: you will have to extend the wires on the ATO fuse holder, so you can access the fuse holder with the steering cover on.

5.       Connect the Black wire from the High Low Switch to the other side of the ATO fuse holder.

6.       Insert a 15 amp fuse in the new ATO fuse holder. This is now your headlight fuse for both LED headlights. The headlight 12v power comes from the headlight switch.

7.       Make a 2” long jumper wire with a male and female bullet on each end.

8.       Connect Black lower headlight switch female bullet connector to the male jumper.

9.       Connect the Red from the Common LH and RH Headlight fuses male bullet to the female jumper wire.

10.       Now you have switched the polarity at the headlight plugs. To test your connections you can use a Voltmeter or Test Light. At the headlight plug you will have one common ground and 12v+ for the high and low beam. 

11.       Install the new LED headlights and adjust the beam pattern per the FSM. This so you get the best beam pattern and you will not blind oncoming traffic.

12.       Reinstall the steering column cover very carefully. (The plastic screw holes in the cover like to crack and strip out very easily).

LED Jumper Wiring Modification with ATO Fuse Holder Installed

Upper Headlight Switch

High Low Beam Switch

Headlight plug electrical outputs before modification

Headlight plug electrical outputs after LED wiring modification

240z FSM Headlight Wiring Diagram

Holley Part Number

71 240z Holley Retrobright LED Headlights

These Holley LED headlights bring the headlights up to modern standards with a classic look. The have a great beam pattern that really lights up the road when you're driving and don't blind other drivers. They come in different colors and the LED bulbs are replaceable. I choose the Modern White color vs. Classic White.  They really have worked well for me so far! 

I am close to finishing up my 72 240z and doing finishing touches, the last being JDM/Euro spec amber tail lights. Since the car is not going to use many functions going to the rear of the car I decided to wire it myself just for tail lights, rear side markers, and license plate light. The issue I am running into is how to wire a 72 or 73 4 pin 2.8mm spade connector tail light sub harness? A lot of the information online seems to be for early z cars with a 4 pin 6.3mm spade that has 3 wires on each of the upper bulbs. I know that I need to run an independent wire from the brake switch output wire that goes into the turn signal switch. The wire is Green / Yellow; all good there, but not sure how to modify the tail light sub harness.

A post on ClassicZ by Arne: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/32228-modify-us-240z-rear-turn-signal-wiring-jdm-style/ is helpful, but the first reply from OniZ mentions to make the lights work I need the early 240z 3 wire bulb socket on the inner upper bulb... Is that correct? Picture attached is my 72 240z sub harness and as you can see the inner upper bulb is 2 wires only. 

I know Green / White is running lights, but not sure if it's brake light too. Also, Green wire on the sub harness is Green / Red or Green / Black on the main harness which are the turn signals, but also not sure if they are brake lights also. 

Can anyone help? Do I need 3 wire upper inner bulb or can I make my current sub harness work? 

Looks like I need to snip G from upper right bulb so only 1 wire goes to turn signal for Amber which is bottom right, but not sure about anything else. Goal is to have running lights and brake lights for 2 upper bulbs and just turn signal light on bottom right.

I am looking for a fun project and came across this ad. I am new to 280 Zs so I am not intimately familiar with all the parts/mods that come with this one. It looks like a pretty solid build that needs finishing. 

Unfortunately, I don't really know if this is a good price or not. It seems a bit high, but I'm just not sure. Does this look like a good build? Were quality parts used? What is a fair valuation for it in its current state? What questions should I be asking the seller? 

Here is the link to the listing on fb.

https://www.facebook.com/share/16UNYJrqGu/

Thank you!

The model will be setup as such:

1. Fenders and front bumper off

2. All doors open, windows down

3. Interior stripped (except ceiling)

4. Wheels off

5. RB25, tranny, installed

6. Core support cut/altered

I will be hanging the fenders, bumpers, and my turbo from my garage rails in such a way that they are included in the scan as well. I will be able to piece together the model eventually.

The reason I'm bringing this up is I will be making the point cloud available for purchase and download. It will be a multi-gig file, so I will need to setup an FTP.

Thanks,

Jeff