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  1. Today
  2. https://youtu.be/N94E9jPvp84 This might be the ultimate truly engineered suspension swap kit made for the 240Z cars, check out the video it is amazing and Apex Engineering makes it for stock engine, RB, and V8's, Bolt in upper and lower control arm conversion with 8.8 rear end that eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis. This converts the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic. This provides ability to adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others. Use the Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil springs that was the winner of best engineered new product at SEMA 2014. Also comes with axle shafts able to handle 1200 Ft/lbs of torque!
  3. Read the brake FAQs and search the brake forum. Also search the internet by typing "240z brake upgrades". Note: stock brakes are fine
  4. Need a center cap for a Snowflake rim... still have one?
  5. Howdy, Welcome to the forum. Looks like you posted in the FAQ section. This section does not allow for replies. Please look in the announcement section for stickied posts regarding the fault. Also please take a moment to read the forum rules. "There is no best" is one of them. That is because it depends on the individual and their needs. The brakes needed for a drag car are going to be different to ones needed for road racing is going to be different to the ones needed for drifting and so on. As a forum rule there is no best, there is a good fit for a desired application, but no real best. Keep that in mind be specific and you will get more specific response, super generic questions may be sent to the tool shed per the forum rules.
  6. Would this work with control arms/ tie rods/TC Rods from Apex and/or T3? All attached to a stock Cross member? Trying to find a way to get rid of the front strut tube/spindle without breaking the bank with full T3/Apex Systems... and i like BC's. I've read through your build thread btw TUME, awesome work!
  7. Hello looking to buy both top and bottom auto climate aspirator fans for 84 Z31, in working condition. thanks
  8. Thanks guys I will definitely check them out. Are these kits avail only through APEX and HOKE websites? or is there a good distributor that offers these kits? My Shell is primed and ready for paint? This is my first build of this caliber. Can I paint the car (or at least engine bay, interior and undercarriage? As that is my plan, that is why I am looking for the best kit that wont require test fitting and modifications.
  9. Hello guys! Any suggestions on what is the best bigger brake upgrades for the 240Z? installation links if any. Thank you
  10. Actually, I've seen differences just between my '73 early-model 260 and my '74 late model 260. Maybe some of that is due to thicker metal, double-layering, or additional reinforcement; but the bottom line is that it results in a stronger/stiffer shell.
  11. I don't know if this is a good thing or not. I filled the cylinders with ATF for 8 hrs and didn't get anywhere. Then i followed it by soaking it over night with ATF/acetone mix, that didn't. Thinking of Villeman's idea of getting oil to the crank, etc. I flipped the block upside down and filled it up with old oil. After about a day or I was to get a degree or two of rotation with some persuation with a hammer. So, I can rock back and forth, but doesn't seem to get any more movement. I then flipped it back upright, and soaked the cylinders with the ATF/aceton mix. After a day, the mxiture seeped through the rings. Unfortunately, i still get the same range of motion. No more. Now, I plan to do what Villeman suggested. I'm going to remove all the hadware except the crankshaft, pinston, etc. Unless there is something obvious I am missing?
  12. Yesterday
  13. You will be doing rust repairs. My suggestion is do whole floor pans and bad dog rails. I wish I had. Doing it spot by spot took way longer and the result is not as good.
  14. I've had four Zs to compare against (early 71, 72, 76, 78) and from what I can tell that's not really true. The series one cars do, in fact, have thinner metal (about 0.9mm vs 1mm for later models), but otherwise the metal thickness as far as I can tell is generally the same. What you will find in the later models is additional reinforcements used, which means more metal.
  15. Yes, $3K is a very reasonable price for a solid car, even with the engine and interior issues you've noted. Also, being a 280, the shell is made with thicker sheetmetal throughout than earlier year models....so that makes it a sturdier platform for engine swaps/stiffer suspension/etc.
  16. Buy it! To me that's a rust free car, everything else that needs doing is easier than rust repair.
  17. It's the steering wheel on the Hakosuka Skyline for the first GT-R. The R comes from, GT-R.
  18. I am really hoping someone could shed some light on this logo. I have been searching for hours on end trying to figure out where it is from. I haven't seen that "R" used on any Nissan/Datsun vehicles. It looks really unique but has no concrete history that I could find. Some reports claim it to have been factory equipped on early C10 Hakosuka Skylines. Or that it was on Skylines that were sold under the Datsun name and not the Nissan one. Or a Datsun Compe steering wheel that was very commonly swapped onto C10 Skylines in the 70's. I've even seen it referred to as a Nissan/Prince logo. I don't know where the logo originated. Or if it was truly a Skyline logo, why it is an "R" and not the stand "S" logo. And the style of the "R" doesn't match any of the R's used in the branding of early GTRs. It is a logo that I cannot match to anything and have only found it on the center caps of Datsun competition steering wheels. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  19. Unfortunately I've been working more on the mechanical aspects of my build than this, but with the long weekend ahead of me maybe this is what ill pick back up! I promise its not dead, just waiting for it to be actually ready for reveal!
  20. did you ever finish this 100% sanded, painted, etc? was digging the design, really want to see it finished
  21. Take one apart to look at the others when you have troubles. There are not many parts.. . To me it looks you have everything needed.
  22. New or used, just need something compatible.
  23. Looking for 240z front air dam. The version without the brake ducts. New or used. Prefer local to Socal but will pay for shipping.
  24. Didn't see your location on mobile. I'm definitely willing to help you out. I just need to make the time to pull it apart and box it up, which I likely won't be able to do until next week.
  25. The steering rack issue ended up just being a small installation oversight due to the way I put the center seal in, I had pushed it over the gear and it cut the seal. I assembled the rack from the other side of the main shaft and was able to get everything to seal up no problem. After a proper alignment on a nice dug-in rack and a new set of tires, I was ready to head to my next event at jackson county sports park in Medford Oregon. For the first time in the 4 years I've gone to this track, the car cruised up great and didn't run rich through the mountains like I struggled with before. Dropped the cars off at the track, and went back to town to spend the night. We arrived at the track in the morning, attended the drivers meeting and I ended up being the first one on track, drove for a few laps and started getting comfortable and BAM! Stripped out 3rd gear on the initiation into the first corner. This is was a late KA / SR larger gearset. (there are two gearsets for the KA with the same ratios) I pulled the gearbox at the track, cleaned up the bits and resealed it and dropped it back in to drive home. A waste of a track day, but at least I got home without a tow. Luckily I have a spare gearset on the shelf, so all will be fixed soon. Also have a bunch of gearbox tech/building tips incoming for KA/SR boxes. The blown gearbox being pulled apart. Here's my spare big gearset vs another early KA box I got. The big gearset is about 2mm bigger on each gear. The state of my new garage is bad as well, so lots of things need to be addressed before this thing will be back out.
  26. Thanks for all of the really helpful responses! The owner wants $3,000 (engine doesn't run well, it's an automatic, and the interior is pretty trashed). I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't put more into body work than it costs to by a better sorted version. My goal is to make a canyon carver so new suspension, engine/trans/LS diff swap, etc. Any thoughts on that plan?
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