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  1. Today
  2. Leave it to you @1969hondato run this right over the top. That would probably work quite well! Any takers?
  3. They look fairly symmetrical, possibly flip 180 for front exit and turbo 😈
  4. As I said not looking to argue. Was just a question.
  5. Yesterday
  6. And how many built engines did Jeff go through before finally deciding to tune on a junkyard oem combo? And then he ended up making more power on that motor than most, go figure. My point is that even forged pistons aren't going to give you enough forgiveness to "learn to tune" on. Don't waste money when you don't have to. If this were still the year 2002 I'd say there's absolutely no reason to go forged pistons for me and my use case. But with today's supply of L engines, you have a bit of a point. But at what cost? At minimum I'd end up with: $500-700 in machine work minimum to get the block sonic tested, bored, decked, coolant ports opened, and studs upsized. $1,000 for forged pistons, though maybe you know of a deal I don't for a nice piston that fits the factory rods $100-200 in all the rebuild odds and ends $700-800 for a proper damper and trigger wheel (which is half of my detonation problem, thus needs to be done) If I'm doing all that, I might as well tack on: $250 head machine work to clean the deck and open the valve seat for larger valves $500 for larger valves My time and energy to clean up the valve seat backside radius, bowl, and port cheeks. $500 Camshaft $200 valve springs $150 New rockers $100 Lash pads And probably other things I'm forgetting. In all reality, investing ANY parts into an L engine starts to make you ask "where to stop" because rebuilding a motor to only do a basic bore cleanup by a machinist and slapping in forged pistons doesn't sound like a wise investment. You either go all the way, or not at all. I was a huge fan of the "not at all" approach. The issue is the supplies as of late.
  7. If the new Ujoints don't solve the problem, the next place to look is the mustache bar bushing and insulating rubber washers. When they wear out they allow the mustache bar to slam up into the subframe, unfortunately the original rubber bushings are NLA so you are stuck with using Poly bushings which come with there own problems but they will fix the clunk.
  8. I know what your saying, but forgiveness is the reason to switch. How much is your time worth when swapping and dissembling engines? As you’ve noticed, sometimes a head gasket won’t be the weakest fuse. Not meaning to argue, just explaining why I question it.
  9. No reason to go forged pistons unless you're just trying to save weight. The factory pistons break because of detonation, not power generated. Forged pistons can give you a bit more wiggle room in that they'll take the abuse of mild detonation, but that abuse is just transferred to everything else. The real answer is to tune it to not detonate, which is also why I went with a gasket I knew would blow easily. If the tune is solid, there's no reason you can't make 400+whp on a factory long block. You'll have heat issues trying to hold that power for long intervals, but for drag racing it should hold up fine. I'd say anything above 350whp will have heat management issues on a road course and you should be doing the same things Jeff is doing to his block and head to improve coolant flow. But even then, forged pistons are still not needed. If you're building a 200+whp NA build though, you'll want lightweight pistons, which means go with something for weight reasons, not strength/power reasons. That said, I've had to do much soul searching. I'm extremely unbiased and love to see any swap into a S30. I wanted the L28ET because it would supply enough power for my goals and is economical compared to any swap. The problem is my opinion on that matter has aged. I've been on these forums and into Z cars for 16+ years now. The market has changed. I can't just go find another L28 core all day long in the junkyards. I can't find turbo donors for under $1,000 regularly. If I'm going to be racing regularly (autox for now, hpde in the future) I don't want to be worried about the issues with anytime I have motor issues. I need a mill that isn't just dependable, but expendable. That second factor is really where the L engine is lacking. So I'm putting in a spare L28ET for now, but there's a good chance it's coming out come winter with something else going in. In the same vein, any suspension mods I'll be doing will also be as "off the shelf" as possible. There often over looked value of being able to get bushings, bearings, bolts, etc at your nearest parts store and not wait for something to show up online. If you look at parts used for circle track this is very much the way everyone builds their cars. You fabricate the chassis around common parts, not the other way around. I'm not interested in making or buying custom parts because they fit my chassis. I'm interested in making my vehicle fixable/repairable when things go wrong. And there's always something that'll be going wrong.
  10. I had three Wilwood MCs fail right out the box. Two of them leaked internally and the third MC had smashed MC bleeders. I ended up purchasing a 79 280ZX 15/16 MC from Dave at Arizona Z Cars for about $125. Good deal. The last time a reaction disk fell out I made a new one from a rubber stopper and used JB Weld to glue it to the push rod. Please post how you get things worked out.
  11. So, with social media the way it is, this kind of relevant and up-to-date information gets lost in the cesspool of Facebook groups. ___________________________________________________________________ This information is up-to-date: Summer 2019 and affects the greater 805 area code. ___________________________________________________________________ I didn't start this thread to discover a good mechanic, but to meet other people with similar interests. With that said, Larry Butler is a very good mechanic. His hobby is 510 racing, and he owns multiple Datsuns. He also has background with Z cars, and has shown this to be the case. My car, a hybrid, is a 240Z (LS1 + T56) with a Z31 rear-end. Most mechanics look at it and don't know where to start. He's had my car on two separate occasions and completed the following within a very reasonable time-frame. I'm talking...hours. Speed-o was not working | Fixed Fuel gauge was not working | re-wired Fixed (w/o taking the dash out) Differential hemorrhaged oil | Fixed CV Axle issues | Fixed Updated coilovers with new springs (needed stiffer spring rate) | Done EFI wiring issues | Scheduled to be fixed He has not turned down a job yet, and my whole car is basically a Frankenstein. He could probably work around an OEM build with his eyes closed. Larry works at Ferrell's Auto Repair in Atascadero, CA. To schedule time with Larry, you must work through the front-desk. Call them ((805) 466-1004) with the Year, Make, Model of the Datsun, and include any hybrid information. They will assign your car to Larry by default, because it's just known that he is the man for these cars. Larry will need to look at your car to understand your needs and requests. So, your first session will be an assessment + specific job you've requested. Ferrell's is not a speed or custom shop. When it comes to Datsuns, the front-desk will have almost no information to give you, other than a quote and general time-frame for job completion. All of the focused Datsun talent is Larry. During drop-off and pick-up, Larry has been nice enough to spend up to 15 minutes discussing what he did and what he saw. This is a bonus, because mechanics work and charge by the hour. Every minute he spends talking to you about your car is time taken away from some other customer, so you have to realize that Ferrell's is going out of its way to work for you. Again, they are not a Datsun garage like the popular shops we know in LA and Bay Area. They are a standard shop that happens to employ a ******* Datsun Jedi Master. As for meeting other owners in the area...super duper bonus is that Larry probably knows most of them. Or he knows the ones worth knowing, ha. So this is my assessment of Larry.
  12. Crap luck! Next build will you be going with forged pistons? I’m scared for when I get my wastegate holding more then 2psi! Ha
  13. Also losing fluid from one of the reservoirs is usually a symptom of a bad primary cup seal in the master. If it's in the front it will usually push fluid into the rear reservoir. If it's in the rear it will dump fluid into the booster. I've had a brand new Tilton master leak. I'm sure it's not unheard of with Wilwood as well.
  14. Hole in the diaphragm makes the hissing/whistling noise.
  15. If you're going to split the wiring into 2 looms, I suggest keeping the low current sensors away from the potentially noisy high current actuators.
  16. Working on my 280zxt Cas signal, so I can do full sequential. I got a very nice 280zxt distributor without a cas from a fellow Datsun nerd. I then found a basically new fully Nissan Cas from a 1998 Nissan Quest. Which has the correct trigger wheel. Pretty neat. Dizzy is getting vapor blasted today and I should have it all installed by the weekend. Pretty excited!
  17. Hey Joe, Want to trade Shifter Relocation part? I have a GTO trans ( I didnt know this) and the MGW short shifter as well. I need the inner part and would gladly trade you my GTO for your F-Body one
  18. I'd be concerned about the kick out, especially the right one. Also as high as those are it would dump into the firewall. If the engine is kept more forward there might be room to get it turned down. The engine bay is plenty long. I don't think they will work very well if the engine is held tight to the firewall for better car balance. With how short the Coyote platform is a front/mid engine setup should be possible with the strut towers about even with cylinders 1&2. My firewall is messy anyway so I'm going to set the engine right back into it and box a bit as necessary. I plan to do some shorty equal length headers. Reports I have seen show these engines really respond to a good exhaust and tune. Because the pulses are perfectly even side to side the Voodoo exhaust can be much less complicated and still have no compromise. If they don't flare too much, those manifolds might work well to get an engine in and running initially. You could always add headers.
  19. I pulled the rod and reaction disc out and glued the disc in place as per the faq.... would the rod adjustment being wrong create a hiss or is that just from the booster failing?
  20. The hissing sound suggests a failed booster. After you test the booster per my previous post, and it fails the test, replace the booster. Typical booster installation errors include push rod adjustment and/or the reaction disk falling out. See the brake FAQ and brake forums for details. Suggest that you read up on push rod adjustment and the raction disk.
  21. For reference: I can't find any pictures of them installed though. It mildly concerns me that they angle at the end, which means they're pointing at the transmissions potentially a bit much, but they also seem to terminate right at the end of the motor, so that's probably pretty good. That'll put the flange in a place that there should be space for them.
  22. is it possible the boot on the back end (boot thats behind the pedal) has something to do with it? might have messed that up
  23. So I have a spare motor on it's way over to me thanks to stupid_fast who's really coming through for me. In the meantime, nodus is scheeming and causing all sorts of trouble (the good kind). He has a project that's likely getting parted out, so there's a motor there that will likely end up at my house. More to come later.
  24. Thanks for the response! The pedal has been making a bit of a hissing noise since the upgrade.... the booster was working fine before the install of the new master cyl (or at least i didnt have these problems....), check valve hasnt been touched. going to bleed brakes then do this test today then check mc push rod, are there common areas where the booster can leak from? is it possible that something broke in the booster when i installed the new master? Thanks again!
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