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  1. Today
  2. An upgrade I did was the 280zx close ratio 5 speed with matching 3.9 diff. completely bolt on swap for both parts. Quick, easy, and somewhat cheap upgrade that really does pack a punch.
  3. Hey everyone! I'm Ryan and I'm finally starting my childhood dream resto, the 280z. It's a completely stock 1978 280z with the L28 I6 motor (N47/N42 combo) with a 5 speed and R200 diff. I've already gotten it mostly down to the shell except for the dash and suspension. Before I start the motor rebuild, I wanted to ask some of you up here some suggestions instead of sifting through this entire site's worth of forums. I want the motor to have some kick and some top end but I don't think I'm gonna bore over any or get a turbo. I wanted to possibly give it an upgraded cam, port and polish, switch it to triple weber, exhaust, light weight flywheel and swap the diff with the STI diff. With switching to carbs, would i be able to delete the computer? I'm hoping you guys can give me some suggestions on good quality/size cams or any other performance tips/parts to bring this beauty back to life while also maintaining reliability as well as power. I've been turning wrenches since I was 10 but never built a motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys!
  4. Life got busy but I recently started working on the build again. Since the last post I've been cleaning out the garage and figuring out where things are at. All of the new suspension is on and I pulled the midpipe to begin refabrication around the new turbo setup. I also sent the vintage SK 50s out for restoration and started assembling my wheels with the 245s for more traction.
  5. @AydinZ71 I'm not sure that bending the strut will work for Konis as they are generally tight. I've heard rumors but never seen them in person about a certain BMW team that had a jig that mounted in a hydraulic press to bend in some extra camber. Getting the tube out of the is going to be some work but I think that might be the best way to go. Another option would be to build a custom strut and use Nascar hubs 5x5s I think are called. That will help with pad knockback. Another option if you haven't used them is 280Z struts. They are thicker and should flex less. Or you can show up with some DTM inspiration Cary
  6. Yesterday
  7. Sorry to hear life has been taxing lately. It gets to us all eventually and I hope everything starts going up for you soon ❤️ when you get to it, I'm not getting any skinnier luckily lol
  8. Yeah, lowered otherwise stock Z will have something like -3 in back and -.5 in front. Terrible.
  9. I've just completed this conversion. I was in the market for wiper arms and stumbled on this thread. Seemed like a good idea. The Mazda Miata NA arms do fit, and include the more modern "J hook" attachment system. This is nice since most wiper blades use this attachment. I found a driver and passenger set on Ebay for $45. The driver side has the odd aero foil. Note that with this conversion, you must use different size blades (at least I did). I used the Bosch blades for both sides. Driver side = 16" blade Passenger side = 15" blade
  10. @JMortensen I am glad its not just me Jon! After-all, I don't have the years of track-going experience you, Cary, and John have, and I humbly admit "camber" could have been a cheese to me as little as five years ago (ok maybe a slight exaggeration) . The more I think about it, I don't see an appropriate way around this without changing the angle of the strut tube relative to the hub. The further the strut gets away from the OEM mounting position, the less the chassis is prepared to accept the loads. My towers are all braced more-or-less at the centerline of the towers, not towards the fenders which is where the mounting is migrating towards. My concern about "bending" the tube: My Koni's are already a "tight" fit as it is. I'm concerned any bending on the tube will just mean the shock will bind when I reinsert it, somewhere along its length. One option is to cut the tube with a cutoff wheel right where it meets the cast strut assembly, locate the new angle, and use MIG welding wire to fill-in the "wedge" created by setting a new angle to the tube. I think your idea of cutting the top of the tower will definitely work (to a limit), as long as you reinforce the surrounding unibody to accommodate shift in load. Its not an option for me (race class), and changing the strut angle may end-up being easier and provide better adjustability in the end. I have not done the math yet, but I actually think one of the misconceptions I had was that the added track is driving the majority of the negative camber. I really think its the significant change in ride-height that's the significant driver in my case. It occurs to me that most street Z's that have been lowered significantly are unlikely to have checked their camber before/after. I know I certainly didn't with my own street car back in the day. PS: Anyone else doing their own string alignment? I have done so twice now, and starting to get a little faster.
  11. Last week
  12. Got my shirt yesterday, and it looks awesome…thx, Ryan! Very much appreciate all your hard work to make this happen.
  13. my hood mold is made for racing only, no inner reinforcement and no stock mounting hinge supports, design for hood pins mount only.
  14. I had both square and round flanges from a 76 and a 78 propeller shaft (what Nissan calls the center longitudinal driveshaft) and a variety of diffs with round and square flanges and they all interchanged. There are definitely different bolt patterns but you can't tell by the shape of the flange. Best to measure. Watch out for the 88 viscous LSD. Different axles. Shiro.
  15. i drove the 260 in to my garage in October and decided to do the swap😎 Old engine out and the new in :), nope.... The LSA has been started on a pallet to see that everything works ok. ECU is a E67 from a 2012 Camaro ZL1 and i added a FPCM to PWM control fuel pumps. The radiator and fan is from a Corvette C7, also PWM controlled. Homemade 180° headers. As the steering rack had some play in the bushings i decided to get a power steering rack, i went with a Vauxhall Corsa rack, flipped upside down and mounted in front of the cross member with homemade brackets, seems to work😀 Brackets on the pic is temporary plastic ones, needed to put the rack in the lathe for small adjustments. Have a nice evening Christian 20240229_171533.mp4
  16. Here’s some pics of finalized exhausting. Note the new “intake” exhaust pipe for turbo. No more flex pipe besides joiner between down pipe and modified Z-story exhaust. Everything is heat wrapped and I did pick up a nice carbon weave turbo blanket. I also got a heat sleeve for my fuel lines. The only thing I have to worry about heat wise is the strut mount. Just have to tap oil pan now and wait for my megasquirt to arrive.
  17. I am going to pick up some ceramic spacers. I also bought some carbon welders felt stuff. It says it’s fireproof and can withstand 1800f. I will have to test different things when I get it on the road. Here are pics of progress. Intercooler all done. Edit: not sure why most of these pictures are crap, but try to make it out
  18. The Differential will swap but you have to look at the flange that the driveshaft bolts up too. If yours is round, you will have to swap that over(FYI, it doesnt just pull off, you need some sort of puller. Even just a 3 jaw puller from harbor freight). The 300zx half shafts and stub axles i do not believe swap over. If you want something stronger than universal joint half shafts you need to source 280zxt companion flanges and CV-joints. I have custom made stub axles that allow me to run 300zxt cv joints. The company that made mine are out of business. Z car depot might make something. If you do the 280zxt cv joints, they will work in any R-200 (longnose) Diff. And you will only need the 280zxt inner stub axle (called companion flange). Your stock outer stub axle is the same as a 280zxt. Which if you are running alot of HP (400+) and a stick shift. The outer stub axle is your week point. If your under 300hp you will be fine.
  19. Man that looks good! Glad you are happy! You are the first to get the coils up and running outside of myself
  20. Don't tell my wife Like I tell other people. some like to fish, some like to bowl, I like to make.
  21. I'm in this same boat. I widened the LCAs an inch to prevent CV bottoming and the rear ended up at something like -3.5 with the camber plates flipped and maxxed out positive. I had the same idea about removing the tubes from the uprights. I actually have Mustang 36mm Bilsteins I am going to run. They are the same length as my sectioned front struts that I run now, so I'll need to run a spacer in the back. My thought was to make a mount and bolt the uprights to it to measure the strut angle, then bend the strut tube in say 4 degrees. The camber plate should handle about 2 degrees of adjustment (guesstimate) and so if I could get somewhere in the 0 to -2 or -1 to -3 range I think it would work. My other thoughts were to cut the top of the tower out, plate it and recut the hole for the camber plate (sounds like a lot of hassle), or to make a 1" thick offset plate to mount between the bottom and top of the camber plate and move everything outboard, but seems like that might be a lot of extra stress on the camber plate and strut tower.
  22. First project now that I'm home is getting the new ignition coils in. Just had to swap out the stalks along with the new spring provided by Duffy. Taped the harness I got in two spots just to keep it a little tighter. I'm not the biggest fan of wiring that branches off in only one section, much prefer it to T off in multiple spots as it goes down the line, but I know that's a lot more time consuming. Regardless I'm actually really happy with the little subharness I got. A few pics included here show the shorter stalks, taped up, finished fitment and the before and after. Already got the dwell times adjusted. Updated my megasquirt firmware for the first time in 4 years, and did some very mild adjustments. Feels like it's running much smoother than before - maybe that's full placebo effect happening, but even if the actual performance difference is negligible, I'm WAY happier with how much tidier and more serviceable this is than the previous setup. Second mini project was just 30 seconds of adjusting the dampers on my coilovers. I softened them up after reading a post. I think I was overdampened for my spring rates, especially at the front and small but abrupt dips and other holes felt like they were pounding the whole car. Feels much smoother now. I think I'll be doing a lot of small projects again while I'm here, but I think within the next year I want to completely upgrade all my wiring, move to a nexus R3, switch to electric fans and reroute the hot side intercooler piping, and color match the engine bay to the exterior while the engine is out to rebuild with flat top pistons. In the meantime I'll cleanup major spots that need some attention and tidy up anthing from the transmission back that's causing little rattles or discomfort.
  23. Hello, I see this post is from a couple years ago, but I have a 1978 280z and I want to ls swap it, I already have a 4.8 ls engine and was wondering if a 8.8, 4:10 differential would fit onto the z. It is on Facebook marketplace from a ford 2005 sport trac, 59in axel to axel.
  24. Hey guys I know these been covered alot but iam still kinda confused so I got an 82 280zx 2 seater iam wanting to swap an z31 r200 lsd with turbo axles since there stronger iam trying to get the diff axles hubs stub axles and the flanges are they basically bolt in like anything else needed or stuff like that and also has anyone done that swap and used z32 cailpers in rear
  25. Even if 100 people commited to purchase, its still tiny small numbers vs an OEM production. Its got to be done out of passion and at least not to lose money. This is why this is such a huge acomplisment for someone like Derek, We are fortunate the passion runs deep. I cant imagine the hours of "un-billed" time
  26. The most economical way forward in my opinion would be a custom casting that utilized RB components with custom timing sprockets. But even then you would have to put up a pretty large amount of cash.
  27. With new tires and shocks (BC) i decided to swap out the seats as i was all over the inside 😁. Wheels were Rota RBs that i widened rear 3/4 and front is going to be a tad narrower to get a proper scrub radius. Tires are Nankang 255/40-17 and front is 225/45-17. Painted gold for that 70ies look😎 Rear are 9.5 wide and front will be 7.5. Front hubs are Nissan S13 (modified struts) as i got some not so nice feel in my break pedal, had some flex in the old set up that made the travel in the pedal is a bit longer after a hard turn. The seats are Cobra Nogaro, super help from these guys. Comments are welcome good or bad. Have a nice weekend👍 Christian
  28. You would be better off tying into the bolts on the cold side for your attachment point. That will drop a lot of heat too. Or you could try to use the two bolt holes near the top of the block if you have those. I used those for knock sensors but they would work good as a mounting point for the turbo
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