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  1. Past hour
  2. Finally I am done. Had some issues with suspension and injectors. Now it is doooone! (This time for real^^ )
  3. Today
  4. I unfroze an engine that sat for years (inside the engine bay) with some PB blaster. Maybe give that a try?
  5. Sparco r100 passenger seat into a 78 280z went in fairly smooth. Needed to drill new holes for bolts onto the seat mounts because the rails are now wider apart with the sparco seat. I will update with what I did for the driver side when that’s done.
  6. Take a voltmeter and start to look for feeding wires and the volt they have. Should be the same as you measure at the battery. If it's not the same fellow the cable and measure every connection until you find the loss. Use a wire plan you can find here on the forum.
  7. madkaw

    Ms3x install

    Z life is good again. Engine running like a champ. Fires right up cold and running smooth . Ready to up the CC’s
  8. Yesterday
  9. Been driving the car around a bit. I finally got the idle tuned good enough the it doesn't die every time I let off the throttle, lol! Does anybody know of a good resource for tuning "modern" efi, specifically a system similar to Wolf v500? Seems like Haltec is similar since the owners of both companies used to be partners at Haltech, at least that's what I remember from internet folklore.
  10. I have an Akebono kit intended for a S14. 14” rotors and huge calipers. https://www.z1motorsports.com/brakes/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-14-akebono-big-brake-master-set-240sx-p-4669.html
  11. Suspension is a work in progress. Latest is I modified steering knuckles on the S14 spindles so I could use stock length outer tie rods to maintain original geometry.
  12. I Second that. Planning on copying your cross-breeded suspension ideas. I did the engine swap first, suspension/brakes now. Awesome work!
  13. Alright guys this is going to be a bit lengthy, but I'm hoping by giving as much info as possible the clues will be there and you will have a better idea, maybe I'm looking too hard at one thing. Okay I got this 1978 280z about 2 months ago. The car hasn't touched the road in 12 years and hadn't started in who knows how long. First I got a battery and hooked it up. The brake lights or night time lights were permanently on and the headlight switch would turn on the lights (it looks like someone put in new wiring to all of these things to bypass switches or fuses). The voltmeter also was the only gauge that worked. With the keys in the car there was no signs of life from turning the key to accessory. NO lights sounds, nothing. I changed the oil, spark plugs, filter, fuel filter, dropped the fuel tank and cleaned it out, switched out some lines, the fuel filter, added another in line fuel filter and put things back in. Once I did all that I turned the "crank bolt" and it was not seized. After that I gave the ignition a full turn, and nothing happened. Went back to the engine bay wiring. After watching a random youtube video I saw that two wires that were just laying in the engine bay were supposed to be hooked to the battery so I rigged them back in the terminal. I tried starting it again and there was life in the ignition. I sprayed some starter fluid in the intake and it started up and died shortly after (I was by myself so I could not continue to spray it to keep it going). Mind you still no gauges or anything worked. Then the ignition started to act funny. I would try to turn it and nothing would happen. And on the second or third time it would start again (with starter fluid). Then it would shut off, I know the fuel pump didn't work at this time. So sprayed some more starter fluid and tried again. This time the ignition didn't work until the 4th or 5th try. And upon the final attempt the ignition did not work at all. I also noticed the volt meter (the only gauge that worked) is no longer working. At this point I tried to clean up some electrical and fix some things for longevity. I did a fusible link delete with the Maxi fuses. I cleaned the positive starter terminal, took the wires off, sanded the o ring terminals, and de gunked everything and put them back on. I took off all the grounds cleaned the o ring terminals and sanded the paint where they were attached and re attached them, one with a new 4 gauge wire to replace an 8 or so. I took the two wires connected under the fuel pump and plugged the battery straight to it through the bullet terminals and the pump made no sound. I cut the terminals off and connected straight to the wires and the pump started to prime, so the connections/ wiring was bad there. Then I replaced all the cylinder fuses in the passenger kick panel with all new fuses, I noticed a decent amount of blue/green oxidation under passenger dash, not sure how that would affect it. Then the ignition still did not work. My next step is to take off the fuse box kick panel, get some connection cleaner and "dialectic grease" take the fuse box completely off (if possible) clean all the connections and prep them, and see if that makes it work. If this should not work, does anyone have an idea of where I should start looking to tackle next based on the things that have shown so far. The volt meter being the only gauge that did work, and now it doesn't. The ignition slowly stopping working. These are two clues that I just don't know what they mean.
  14. Do a Google search of Hybridz.org: Copy and paste into the Google search window: site: hybridz.org "brake upgrades"
  15. I would put the head back on if you have the timing chain tensioner properly locked in to place, and just put some force on it in the normal rotation direction. I had assumed that you would put the head back on before trying to rotate it. You can't turn the crankshaft with the head off because the chain has to move. If you don't have the tensioner locked you won't be able to get the sprocket back on anyway so you'll have to remove the front cover.
  16. I have a stage 1-2 kit for sale, all the highest end parts you can get. Non vented toyota fronts and maxima rears all professionally rebuilt by stop tech. All of it bolts on and uses the stock MC. Also retains e-brake. Pm me if interested. This includes everything in the first picture minus the 1" MC. Which wasn't sized right for this kit. Only selling to go z garage.
  17. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p26/Complete_Track_Attack_Kit.html Our team at Apex Engineered has once again revolutionized the suspension game for the S30 Chassis. Over a year in development we have made the worlds first BOLT IN upper and lower control arm conversion a 8.8 rear end conversion. Our kit eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis. We also converted the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic. This lets you adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others. With this design you can fit a lot more tire than with the standard McPherson strut Comes with Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil Springs Comes with Axle Shafts (capable of 1200 Ft/Lbs of Torque!) Save unsprung weight! Key Features: Improve roll center! Alter anti-dive and anti-squat! Widen track width Alter camber Alter toe Lightweight construction! Strong design! Tough powder coated finish! Customize for your needs! Included: Front crossmember Tension arm braces Billet crossmember bushing top clamp Upper and lower control arm Upper control arm adapter bracket Upper control arm adapter strut insert Quick Steering Knuckles Tie rods (Standard or Low Profile) Billet top coilover mount Rear subframe Upper and lower control arm Uprights (hub mounts) Rear strut brace Rear billet rocker Rear Billet brace Axle Shafts (capable of 1200 Ft/Lbs of Torque!) Viking Dual Adjustable shock Hypercoil Spring To source: Ford 8.8 IRS Differential (2007-2010) Ford 8.8 IRS Inner Axle (2007-2010) Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo Outer Axle (1990-1996) Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly (1990-1996) This system does not let the limitations of the car dictate the upgrade and instead looks at how their vision of an ideal suspension can be installed. This is definitely a high end option but for big horsepower Z cars and they offer it for Datsun 6, RB Skyline, and V8's.
  18. I am sure this has been discussed and I tried to do a search but the HybridZ site had two server issues when I tried to do a search? & no results so, Here are a couple of options: http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/300mm-front-big-brake-kit-240z
  19. https://youtu.be/N94E9jPvp84 This might be the ultimate truly engineered suspension swap kit made for the 240Z cars, check out the video it is amazing and Apex Engineering makes it for stock engine, RB, and V8's, Bolt in upper and lower control arm conversion with 8.8 rear end that eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis. This converts the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic. This provides ability to adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others. Use the Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil springs that was the winner of best engineered new product at SEMA 2014. Also comes with axle shafts able to handle 1200 Ft/lbs of torque!
  20. Read the brake FAQs and search the brake forum. Also search the internet by typing "240z brake upgrades". Note: stock brakes are fine
  21. Need a center cap for a Snowflake rim... still have one?
  22. Howdy, Welcome to the forum. Looks like you posted in the FAQ section. This section does not allow for replies. Please look in the announcement section for stickied posts regarding the fault. Also please take a moment to read the forum rules. "There is no best" is one of them. That is because it depends on the individual and their needs. The brakes needed for a drag car are going to be different to ones needed for road racing is going to be different to the ones needed for drifting and so on. As a forum rule there is no best, there is a good fit for a desired application, but no real best. Keep that in mind be specific and you will get more specific response, super generic questions may be sent to the tool shed per the forum rules.
  23. Would this work with control arms/ tie rods/TC Rods from Apex and/or T3? All attached to a stock Cross member? Trying to find a way to get rid of the front strut tube/spindle without breaking the bank with full T3/Apex Systems... and i like BC's. I've read through your build thread btw TUME, awesome work!
  24. Hello looking to buy both top and bottom auto climate aspirator fans for 84 Z31, in working condition. thanks
  25. Thanks guys I will definitely check them out. Are these kits avail only through APEX and HOKE websites? or is there a good distributor that offers these kits? My Shell is primed and ready for paint? This is my first build of this caliber. Can I paint the car (or at least engine bay, interior and undercarriage? As that is my plan, that is why I am looking for the best kit that wont require test fitting and modifications.
  26. Hello guys! Any suggestions on what is the best bigger brake upgrades for the 240Z? installation links if any. Thank you
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