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  2. Looks like it rotted from the inside of the panel, meaning that's only the tip of the iceberg. I'd do a full inspection of the entire car, but I think there's a good chance you'll be sending that shell to the scrap yard.
  3. It is surprising that the red locktight didnt work, that stuff is a pain to get off. I have 12.9 grade hex bolts with low profile heads (from fastenal) with lock washers and I havent had this issue. I wonder if it could have something to do with the CVs binding? did you shorten the axles?
  4. Thanks for sharing! You asked for comments so here are a few.... Who is your intended audience? Novices? If so, I would recommend covering more of the basics. Like setting up from the beginning. I the first video what you are really doing is verifying the cam wipe pattern after you installed the correct lash pad. Was it just blind luck that you got the correct lash pad the first time? How did you pick the lash pads you are using? You should address that in your video to be helpful in "lash pad sizing."
  5. If the roof is that bad i would hate to see the rest of the car. Was it stored under water???
  6. Today
  7. SO pulled out more some panels and trim and found this!! Concerned this is a more than repairable section since it is part of the main support, any comments?
  8. As I pulled out the interior trim I noticed that the roof rear support had some major rust at the corners, is this a repairable spot or is it more of a hassle than it's worth considering I'm just starting this project and have other major areas of rust to contend with? This is a 71' 240z that I picked up at an auction in the hopes of a resto-mod project.
  9. Jeeps have made it easier to find a 7 inch dot legal led headlight. I'm not sure how that hid kit does high/low, I would guess it does not focus light very well. Many states have banned hid conversions due to the poor light focusing unless they are in a properly designed housing.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Thanks guys, can't wait to get this car done. It has been way too long.
  12. Because I haven't seen any videos talking about lash pad sizing, cam degreeing, degree wheels, or TDC on an L28, I figured I'd take a shot at it. Please excuse my video production qualities or my lack of expertise. Like i said, just wanted to take a shot at these subjects. Please comment if i've missed something big or small. thanks joe lash pad sizing.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQSf2TinWc4&t=215s TDC short block....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvcXhv-HZ_0 TDC validation with head installed ....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09AJpZ9z0EY Intake cam lobe center validation... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=895VzDZA8pA
  13. It seems to me looking at the picture of the HID kit it seems to include a new "harness." Or wiring that does the same thing as installing an upgrade harness. Does anyone know if I'm wrong on that?
  14. Lowest point of the new JCI header is flush with the bottom of the camaro oil pan (some inches higher than the frame rails). They're $425 shipped now. As for fitment, only issue so far is #3 plug wire. The sparkplug exits nearly pointing at the primary, so the plug wire boot has to bend into position and ends up smashed against the header. A 90 degree high temp plug wire might work, i'm not sure right now. I'm gonna fully mount it and see if I can remove the spark plug tonight. At the correct height to connect to the spark plug the boot hits the tube pretty well.
  15. Thanks a lot Grannyknot and LooseRocks. I took a look at the harnesses at both of the links you've suggested and noticed that both of them are labeled for 240z, I should have mentioned that I have a 1975 280z, does change anything?
  16. Harness upgrade with relays. https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/
  17. If you go with LED headlights get the best set you can afford and make sure they don't blind the on coming drivers, I have the H4 Halogens from Hella and a complete wiring harness upgrade, without new larger wires you won't see much improvement. The wiring harness upgrade that sells on MotorSport Auto are made by Zsonthebrain, this thread should give you all the info, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/32389-best-new-headlights-for-a-stock-240z/
  18. Taking a look behind the panel to see if it looks like it's been cut up, or just bondo'd over should give you an idea of what will need doing to mount up the bumpers again.
  19. Just remember to add relays into your circuit so you don't end up sinking all the current through your switches.
  20. Thx Miles for your effort, I had seen the z store before. However, I was looking for a supplier in Europe (which i found) to avoid all import taxes and transport costs. Regards, Joost
  21. One of my headlights went out and I figure its a good time to go ahead and upgrade them. I'm looking at these HELLA headlights and these HIDs. Does anyone know if I'd need to upgrade the headlight harness with either of these? Has anyone had any experience with these?
  22. So I might be able to pick up a commercial rotisserie for cheaper than normal, 2 questions: 1) This car looks like someone rolled the rear bumper so there are no brackets, should I be able to grind that down to get to the original mounting holes? 2) If there generic mounting hardware or do I likely need to fab something up myself? @1969honda that's a solid idea with the adjuster and s-camshaft, i might have to look into that further. Thanks.
  23. Yeah it would get really expensive really quick, especially since most shops around here (good ones at least) charge around $130/hr labor for sheet metal work.
  24. If I recall correctly, the reason it's not as desirable is because the lifters are NLA. They can be converted to solid, but I'm not sure about any of the details of the process.
  25. Thanks. I use bacon grease for cutting fluid. Machinist taught me that one, works great. As far as drill bits, I'm hoping my cobalt bits from HF do the trick. They're shockingly good drill bits, but the bolts are 12.9 so might be hard to get through...
  26. Go really slow when drilling bolt heads and use cutting fluid. Be prepared to break a lot of those tiny drill bits.
  27. I've seen threads about this from time to time. Always thought it was particularly the Wolf Creek CVs and it was flex between the AL adapter and the steel CV that caused it, but mine is steel to steel and still having the same problem. Figure I'll post up my problem and solution and whether it works. Problem: Z31T CV 4 bolts are loosening when racing. I replaced the hex bolts with allen bolts because the hex head was so close to the CV body that it's impossible to get a socket on it. Using 12.9 grade bolts. Ran 1 autox, they were loose again. Red loctite. Ran another autox, loose again. Solution: drill and safety wire the bolts. Bought a bolt drilling jig off of Amazon for a whopping $25. Hopefully it works well and I can safety wire the bolts. Already have pliers and all that from wiring my front rotors to the hats. Anyway, will report back when the tool comes and the install is done, then report again later on when I take the wire off and check for bolt stretch probably in the winter.
  28. MightyCarMods on YouTube used a shortnose R200 from an R34 in their 240z build. They used all TechnoToyTuning parts. I believe this was the video where they do the diff install, but they may talk more about the parts in a previous video.
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