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  1. Today
  2. Let's bump this up. Still looking for an early 280 (75-76), 260, or 240Z Gas tank. Thanks Bob
  3. Not a JCR whale tale, but it’s still pretty cool. GLWS
  4. Something like a black plastic 55 gal barrel, or one of those big black plastic drums that trees are potted in for sale....anything with at least a 3-4 ft diameter should have the right curvature.
  5. Yesterday
  6. PayPal dispute opened against Paulo. Thank goodness for PayPal dispute resolution help.
  7. For what it's worth they are posting on Facebook regularly. I sent him a couple more emails, not flaming him, but asking why he wasn't responding. Noticed on his Facebook page that days after telling me my hood was being boxed up he offered offered one just like it for sale, but with blemishes. Since I am forced to hypothesis what is going on, I would guess my hood had issues and rather then be up front with me (I probably would have taken it as is) he sold it and started ignoring my messages. I even made a post on his Facebook page asking what was going on, but the post isn't there. Really a shame as I wanted to order a number of other components, but it looks like I am more likely to have my money taken. Admins on here should be aware that this vendor is having serious problems.
  8. Man that looks really good pretty good priority as well. They want $350 in shipping alone? If that is what you want I'll ship it up to you for what it costs at the local shipping place. Or perhaps you can try eBay? I know some shipping calculators freak out when you input other countries.
  9. What kind of a barrel would that be? I can't even picture that.
  10. Thanks, I have not seen that. I tried making them out of 1/16" ABS plastic using a heat gun to shape it but there is just too many changes in direction on some parts of the fender liner and it just buckles and looks terrible not to mentioned does not fit right. I spent 3 days messing with it and just gave up. I think the best way to replicate this may be a 3D printer but who knows what that would cost. Most people just do without them. I want them on my car because I have seen S30 fenders with dents from the inside from a rock being kicked up by the tire.
  11. Nice build! Im from up in marysville, Oh. Dont see very many z's up my way!!
  12. Love the red! I've been debating a color for my 260 but wow the red and black looks amazing on the car! Where did you get the short antenna by the way...mine is broken off??
  13. Here's two thoughts - 1. Check voltage at the coil. Maybe your voltage regulator is going bad and "over-volting" things. I don't know how a tach would react to that but it's a possibility. 2. Spend $25 for a GM HEI module and wire it in quick and dirty. It might actually make things worse, sometimes they cause their own tach problems, but it might tell you something. Always good to have a backup ignition module anyway, the 40+ year old modules die on a regular basis. Two cheap checks, compared to new gauges. Good luck.
  14. Is this still available?
  15. So I ran a new signal wire from the coil (-) and relocated the resistor, tach still not doing what it should. I’m thinking the tach(s) are dying so I’ll be going the speed hut route I think. Any other insights before I spend a bunch of money is always appreciated. I still need to check the relays and flashers but... As for the hazard lights and indicators on the tach I will be, very likely, living with it for now and requiring the car in the fall.
  16. My shipping info: Tony Fiore 18800 South River Road Alva, Fl. 33920
  17. Cant beat that. Let me know the total and your mailing address and I can get you a postal money order . Thanks Tony
  18. Jeff, Yes, the hood hinges are riveted together and can not be taken apart. When I removed the hinges from my Toater oven, they were a little stiff. But with opening and closing them a few times, they were fine. But there are plastic bushings used in the rear hatch hinges so be careful. I would use some kind of Heat Absorbing Gel just to be sure if I was you. The door latches also use small rubber bumpers in them. Powder Coating is thick and will tighten clearances a lot. Use heat tape and silicon plugs when possible. Hope this information helps you.
  19. Placed some orders for some misc engine parts and decided I'd start on a new manifold. Found some inspiration online and decided to start plugging away. Tubes were cut, tacked into place and sent off to be welded professionally. The shop recommended I add a flange incase I decided to change anything down the road. They did an amazing job. Anyone know anywhere to get a stainless 1jzgte manifold flange? I was looking at the CX Racing one but they want $350 usd just to ship it up to Canada.
  20. Wanted to reuse the same swaybar so made a little template with the printer. Drilled the holes, put a couple hollow rods going through them and welded them up, everything was ground smooth and fit like a glove.
  21. I don’t have my Mac solenoid in front of me, but assuming it matches the pictures I found online, the ports on the solenoid are labeled with numbers. Looking at the nameplate side of the solenoid, the ports are numbered 2, 3, 1 from left to right, with port 3 being under the nameplate. This translates into the following labeling in the HDi manual: 1: P 2: A 3: R For your application (external WG), the solenoid will be connected exactly as shown on page 9 of the HDi manual. So, port 1(P) will connect to the turbo, and port 2(A) will be connected the upper port on the WG. Port 3(R) is left open. Note that the drawing in the manual could be misinterpreted and read as port 3 being the “P” port, since the arrow does somewhat look like it’s pointing at port 3 (the middle port). Perhaps that’s the source of your confusion, because you said that when you blew into the “P” port when the solenoid was de-energized, it was venting out a side port? If you are blowing into the actual P port (port 1) when de-energized, 1(P) is blocked with no airflow possible, and 2(A) to 3(R) is open. When energized, 3(R) is blocked and 2(A) to 1(P) is open. In operation, this means that when the solenoid is energized, boost pressure passes through port 1(P) to port 2(A), applying boost pressure to the top side of the WG and preventing it from opening, which is how boost greater than the WG spring pressure is achieved. When de-energized, the upper port on the WG is vented to atmosphere from port 2(A) to port 3(R), allowing the WG to open. By rapidly shuttling between these two states, boost pressure above the WG spring can be controlled. As a failsafe, since the de-energized state of the solenoid leaves the upper port on the WG vented to atmosphere (2(A) to 3(R)), the WG spring will then control the boost level, should the solenoid loose power for whatever reason.
  22. Exposed

    S30 Whale Tail

    any chance you have pictures of this set on the car? Was interested in getting something similar but never found anything I loved on the car.
  23. Little update from over the winter up until now. After making the patch panel I decided to dive into some more rust I had found on the rad support. Ended up finding a lot of lipstick on this pig. Bent some tube and mocked up what I was envisioning. Then I stripped her down and cut out everything I could find that had rust, and I know I should have inspected and done this before. Better late then never I guess...New frame rails cut to length and tacked into place. Decided to work on the engine a bit as well now that its out. Had some inspiration from @seattlejester with the 3d printing. Managed to pick one up and started plugging away at drawings. Still need to fine tune my settings but its a good start.
  24. Just a small update: Dash cap finally arrived - Accuform 303D. It looks the part, but holy hell is it flimsy. I'm going to have to reinforce it a great deal to have any kind of rigidity. I still may wind up trying to find another busted dash to put in as a support. Which will likely involve some of the West Systems specialty epoxies *joy*
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