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  1. Past hour
  2. Stripped and mounted to a trolley:Most of this lot won't be going back on. It will look a whole lot nice afterwards. Finned diff, adjustable arms, billet drop mounts and dogbone and the moustache bar and driveshafts will be refreshed. Test fitting the super light wings, these things way nothing, I want to reinforce them a bit so they will end up slightly heavier but will still be a decent weight saving over stock, coupled with the dry carbon bonnet and that should save about 16kg from the front end, possibly more. And one thing I messed up on during engine bay resto, didn't remove the bonnet hinge mounts and this was underneath. You learn from your mistake, not making any mistakes like that this time, everything has come off.
  3. The car is with Restoshack and work is underway, currently waiting on it getting blasted and unfortunately the blaster can't do it until Mid August. Before that happens mounts will be made for the rotisserie, anything needing shaved in the engine bay will be removed, and underneath the underseal will all be scraped off. On her way to England At the other side: Some part updates: Got a wiper motor from a Honda Civic to refurb, this should be a decent upgrade to the original motor, not that I plan to need the wipers much. Converted my gauge wiring harness to a quick disconnect autosport bulkhead connector and added an oil temperature sensor as I stupidly forgot to include one originally. Will be refurbing and using a finned diff cover to make sure my OS Giken CLSD doesn't get too hot. The intercooler will be converted to Vibrant HD clamps Will be upgrading the drop mounts and dog bone to these billet units. It does annoy me that the caps are black so I will be changing them to gunmetal grey, at the moment I am thinking that all the suspension parts underneath will go gunmetal grey. I have sound deadening ready for the rebuild:
  4. I enjoyed that immensely! FPV footage was neat as well, hope to get decent enough and try my hand at some chasing sometime.
  5. Not been an update in a while, so here it goes: Car is pretty much ready to go, just got to drop the diff and thats all thats left to take off with still leaving it a rolling shell: Carbon hood fits well (it wont be staying that colour) Decided on which shop to use for the work. Its heading over to Restoshack as I believe they will do a great job on it.
  6. With the amount of tweaking involved in fitting a CD009 I would suggest having it all fitted how you want it before going too far assuming the chassis is workable. I had to widen my trans tunnel, hammer a few portions, cut out the trans mounts, and weld in new points. Taking off cheap paint/undercoating was annoying enough, can't imagine having to attack 2k primer not to mention cracking it in areas where the tunnel was hammered or the trans tunnel was stretched. As others have said, plan it all out. Doing things twice on paper is far cheaper than doing things twice in real life.
  7. Today
  8. Engine has been slightly bored to get some grooves off the cylinder wall. Aftermarket forged rotating assembly (wet sump) putting the engine at 12.5-1 compression. Stage 3 cam from texas speed. Hawks 3rd gen long tube headers.
  9. Richard and JHM--thanks. I appreciate the input. As I mentioned, I ordered (from Jegs) a more robust 8-gauge wire kit, and when it arrives, I'll finish that bit. Right now I confused as hell about the wire to drive the tach. I have a blue wire separated and labeled for that, but I'm pretty sure it's wrong. I want to get this right, because I really don't want to cook the tach. -------------------- Okay, I just tested the blue wire to the tach resistor, and sure enough, they have continuity. So, I'll attach the blue wire to the negative on the HEI when the engine goes in and see what happens. The JTR book says to turn the brass adjustment on the back of the tach 45 degrees, but the text doesn't mention which way. I'll leave that step until after I have the car running, since this may have already been done (it previously had a SBC in it). Getting closer.
  10. Richard and JHM--thanks. I appreciate the input. As I mentioned, I ordered (from Jegs) a more robust 8-gauge wire kit, and when it arrives, I'll finish that bit. Right now I confused as hell about the wire to drive the tach. I have a blue wire separated and labeled for that, but I'm pretty sure it's wrong. I want to get this right, because I really don't want to cook the tach.
  11. Price reduced!!! 20$ shipped!!! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113358577375
  12. Frame and firewall behind and above the frame is patched up. Started cleaning out the rotted floor and outter fender area. Also - Pulled back all the rusty fuel lines and dropped the fuel tank out in preparation for torching out the pass side floor. I have NOS floor panels to go in.
  13. Heya folks. I finally got enough projects and customers out of my shop to bring my 77 280z in and start fixing it. Started off by stripping everything out of the engine bay and repairing the passenger side frame, fender walls, firewall, and floor.
  14. Glad you liked it. At the time of the video: OEM Driveshaft Datsun R180, OEM carrier and stubs Datsun 4.37 Ring and Pinion, from 1980 Datsun 720 King Cab 4x4 (front R180) Quaife ATB differential Now: Aluminum driveshaft CV stubs (and outers) are American chromoly directly into the Quaife (no adapters). Different CVs now, too. (Ermish Racing 2.0 kit)
  15. So if you turn the ignition switch to "run", pull the wire that connects to the temperature probe and then ground the wire, the temp gauge should go all the way to full hot. If, while performing this test, the gauge bounces around, then there is an issue with the sensor wire or the gauge. Could be loose or dirty connections. These links may be of some help: https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/280481-oil-temp-gauge-not-working.html https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/47277-temp-gauge-not-working.html
  16. Yesterday
  17. Hey guys, here are some updated pics which also show things I forgot about like the seats and an L24 block and who knows what else in the trunk. Any further ideas on price?
  18. 73 240Z Stock gauges Megasquirt MS3 running for a few years now. I just finished an electric steering installation. But this issue started before the steering project. Temp sensor to ground test--- Needle works its way to 250 degrees and bounces around a little with voltage pulse. after 15-20 seconds needle drops to 3/4 range and bounces there then back to full hot. back and forth This test and previous test was with MS3 completely disconnected-fuses pulled. While engine running with tunerstudio online temp is normal and steady. To test both temp & pressure gauges I would need to disconnect the wires at the gauges and reconnect with a different power source like straight to a battery, to eliminate all car wiring correct? And if I could get to the wires I need to check voltage feeding the gauges for a pulse. fun fun fun
  19. Well I couldn’t delete the original thread so I just made a new one 😂 

  20. 🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford DG508 injectors and a Megasquirt system. She needs bodywork work of course and I need some help cleaning up the wiring and hooking up all the proper gauges. Tach gauge and fuel gauge are both out. I’m also tracking that the fender mirrors are way off😂...trust me Facebook and Reddit have made that clear. I plan on on getting her epoxied and wrapped. Any advice on how long I can leave her epoxied and what I should expect cost wise? Thanks
  21. Make model and year of the car? Any modifications to the car? Stock gauges? Describe what happens to the temp gauge if you ground the wire connected to the temp sensor.
  22. You can run the wires pretty much any way you want. All things being equal, obviously a shorter run of wire is more desirable than a long run. I originally considered running my main alternator wire along the path you were considering, but it ended up being slightly shorter on my setup going down the driver-side frame rail and across the firewall. Other factors to consider are "neatness" (if that's important to you), durability/survivability, and maintainability. A lot of solutions are easy to initially implement, but become a bitch later on when it's time to work on them and/or replace them.
  23. Don't sweat it. Alternator is low driver side on my car (long way from battery). Wire runs up and over engine and then to battery. Depending on alternator that may be more challenging unless it is a one wire. HTH, Richard.
  24. Okay, without any feedback encouraging me to take the unconventional path, I will carry this feed-wire the long way around. But to avoid voltage drop, I have ordered 8-gauge to replace this 10-gauge wire. When It arrives, I'll route it around the front and be done with wiring hell. Finally.
  25. In 2002 I started a collaboration with John Radevich of JCI in Dallas, Texas. The goal was to build my 1977 280Z into a daily driver using an LS1 and T56. Ya search of "LS1 / T56 Update" will give a lot of the history of that project that resulted in one of the first S30's on the road with that combination in June of 2003 and a conversion component kit sold worldwide by JCI. Since then over 16 years and about 45,000 miles have passed. The car has been raced on quarter mile tracks, done the combination oval and infield at Texas Motor Speedway, done autocross work and a hillclimb. In between those fun events it has been my fair weather daily driver. The move from Texas to Washington state eliminated winter driving due to the corrosive deicing material used by WSDOT. Could it have been done better? Back then, probably not, but today definitely so. I'm happy to see all the aftermarket equipment available for these cars. I used to only shop at Motorport Ajuto in Orange, CA (zcarparts.com) for my bparts but with the drivetrain conversion my world was opened up to Arizona Z Car, Techno Toy Tuning, Silvermine and so many others. Every year that has gone by has seen the development of quality parts and systems for these cars - like zledslights.com down in Weslaco, TX and Dapper Lighting with their LED lighting conversions and Braille for their great Lithium Ion lightweight batteries IMG_4214.MOV IMG_4214.MOV . One thing that has remained constant, however, is the quality of the designed parts and equipment provided by JCI during that project so many years ago. To this day I have not had issue with any component designed by them. Thanks John, you did well for me.
  26. Poor connection? Poor ground? Failing sensor? All of the above? A simple double-check of your water temp can be made with a cheap IR gun.
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