Jump to content
HybridZ
  • Member Statistics

    29338
    Total Members
    2076
    Most Online
    Paradise280z
    Newest Member
    Paradise280z
    Joined

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. I've had four Zs to compare against (early 71, 72, 76, 78) and from what I can tell that's not really true. The series one cars do, in fact, have thinner metal (about 0.9mm vs 1mm for later models), but otherwise the metal thickness as far as I can tell is generally the same. What you will find in the later models is additional reinforcements used, which means more metal.
  3. Yes, $3K is a very reasonable price for a solid car, even with the engine and interior issues you've noted. Also, being a 280, the shell is made with thicker sheetmetal throughout than earlier year models....so that makes it a sturdier platform for engine swaps/stiffer suspension/etc.
  4. Buy it! To me that's a rust free car, everything else that needs doing is easier than rust repair.
  5. It's the steering wheel on the Hakosuka Skyline for the first GT-R. The R comes from, GT-R.
  6. Today
  7. I am really hoping someone could shed some light on this logo. I have been searching for hours on end trying to figure out where it is from. I haven't seen that "R" used on any Nissan/Datsun vehicles. It looks really unique but has no concrete history that I could find. Some reports claim it to have been factory equipped on early C10 Hakosuka Skylines. Or that it was on Skylines that were sold under the Datsun name and not the Nissan one. Or a Datsun Compe steering wheel that was very commonly swapped onto C10 Skylines in the 70's. I've even seen it referred to as a Nissan/Prince logo. I don't know where the logo originated. Or if it was truly a Skyline logo, why it is an "R" and not the stand "S" logo. And the style of the "R" doesn't match any of the R's used in the branding of early GTRs. It is a logo that I cannot match to anything and have only found it on the center caps of Datsun competition steering wheels. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  8. Unfortunately I've been working more on the mechanical aspects of my build than this, but with the long weekend ahead of me maybe this is what ill pick back up! I promise its not dead, just waiting for it to be actually ready for reveal!
  9. did you ever finish this 100% sanded, painted, etc? was digging the design, really want to see it finished
  10. Take one apart to look at the others when you have troubles. There are not many parts.. . To me it looks you have everything needed.
  11. New or used, just need something compatible.
  12. Looking for 240z front air dam. The version without the brake ducts. New or used. Prefer local to Socal but will pay for shipping.
  13. Didn't see your location on mobile. I'm definitely willing to help you out. I just need to make the time to pull it apart and box it up, which I likely won't be able to do until next week.
  14. The steering rack issue ended up just being a small installation oversight due to the way I put the center seal in, I had pushed it over the gear and it cut the seal. I assembled the rack from the other side of the main shaft and was able to get everything to seal up no problem. After a proper alignment on a nice dug-in rack and a new set of tires, I was ready to head to my next event at jackson county sports park in Medford Oregon. For the first time in the 4 years I've gone to this track, the car cruised up great and didn't run rich through the mountains like I struggled with before. Dropped the cars off at the track, and went back to town to spend the night. We arrived at the track in the morning, attended the drivers meeting and I ended up being the first one on track, drove for a few laps and started getting comfortable and BAM! Stripped out 3rd gear on the initiation into the first corner. This is was a late KA / SR larger gearset. (there are two gearsets for the KA with the same ratios) I pulled the gearbox at the track, cleaned up the bits and resealed it and dropped it back in to drive home. A waste of a track day, but at least I got home without a tow. Luckily I have a spare gearset on the shelf, so all will be fixed soon. Also have a bunch of gearbox tech/building tips incoming for KA/SR boxes. The blown gearbox being pulled apart. Here's my spare big gearset vs another early KA box I got. The big gearset is about 2mm bigger on each gear. The state of my new garage is bad as well, so lots of things need to be addressed before this thing will be back out.
  15. Thanks for all of the really helpful responses! The owner wants $3,000 (engine doesn't run well, it's an automatic, and the interior is pretty trashed). I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't put more into body work than it costs to by a better sorted version. My goal is to make a canyon carver so new suspension, engine/trans/LS diff swap, etc. Any thoughts on that plan?
  16. Found a few vids on YouTube about these little bastards. One said you needed a different throttle rod for the linkage to work with the stock components.
  17. You didn't mention what the purchase price was; but that certainly looks like a pretty solid shell from underneath. If it's been west coast, or Colorado area, it's whole life, that bodes favorably for being close to rust-free. If you haven't already done so, pull the carpets up and inspect the floor pans, firewall, rear shelf, and spare tire well from inside the car. The ice pick idea from bunkhouse is a good one. What kind of "project" are you contemplating? If going for an all-original restoration, then obviously the condition of the interior and drivetrain can be as big a cost factor as the shell. If contemplating a track car and/or engine swap, then that stuff is obviously less important.
  18. Sometimes when you get focused on a problem you spend more time making it happen than figuring out how to make it not happen. I can make my drivetrain clunk if I want to, but I tend to drive it in a way that it doesn't clunk. The Z drivetrains are kind of sloppy. Six u-joints, a loose tolerance differential and old worn out transmissions. Once you've minimized all of the slop all that's left is to smooth out your driving skills.
  19. The pictures show a pretty normal old "survivor" car. Dents from speed bumps, light rust. No red flags at all. It even still has the damper weight on the diff mount crossmember so nobody's been modifying it. But for $10,000 you could probably find a nicer 1977 280Z. I don't see anywhere near $10,000 of rust repairs on that car though. Value depends on plans.
  20. Since you seem to have the funds going for an LS6 instead of some version of the 5.3 like so many people, Apex or Hoke are definitely going to be your highest quality options, though you definitely pay the price for them.
  21. I'd arm myself with an ice pick and crawl under it. Anything that looks suspicious, gets poked. Even a small blister under the paint can hide a rust hole.
  22. Not sure what your friend is referring to, but it looks like a good solid '77 280Z to me.
  23. I'm looking for a 240/260/280z project car and could use the forum's collective knowledge on a 280z I found. I know to expect some rust on a '77 Datsun (and with this car I would be OK spending up to $10k for rust repair and paint) but I want to make sure I'm not missing major red flags. What do you think about the vehicle shown here? A friend mentioned that the area where the control arm mounts looks like it is separating and the seams down the side looks like it has filler (and there may be some rusting through around there). And, yes, I know it's impossible to know for sure without seeing it in person. I honestly just want to know if it's worth dragging my mechanic friend across town to see the car. Thanks!
  24. Years ago I had the dreaded clunk. I found the source by putting the car on jack stands, started it up, pulled the e-brake and had a friend shift into first and reverse while releasing the clutch. I was under the car and saw the nose of the differential going up and down as he let out the clutch. New bushings cured the problem.
  25. Glad to hear thats a normal amount of play in the diff. It still confuses me a little that if I can make the diff clunk with my hand that it wouldnt cause a problem when its connected to the engine? I have all new bushings on the car, including the transmission mount and control arms. That seemed to cover a lot of the things listed in the faq thread. Thats why Im still looking at the diff even though I know its usually not the culprit. The transmission is out of the car right now and didnt notice any play in it either. Ill see if I can find anything else tonight.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...