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  1. 2 points
  2. 2 points
    Semantics is a big deal on this forum. It is one way that separates us from other forums. Making sure an item is called the correct name that people recognize will go a long way. If you want I can edit the title of your post which directly asks for a workaround to the combo switch. Semantically it seems to be called a multi-function relay. The relays themselves seem to last quite a while, I'm still using several stock ones in my 71 that was in use till 2010. I would suspect as miles pointed out it may be the switch contacts on the stalk going out. The hazard lights switch has its own set of wiring so it may be acting as a red herring if you are using that as the reasoning in your train of thought. I suggest taking a breath, people are here to help of their own accord, it may be frustrating to seemingly answer the same question or when someone is caught on a seemingly unrelated point, but realize we need clarity to try and help. It may serve to help their train of thought, and it may seem tedious, but given the free help, maybe try being accommodating? It may serve better to have a post where you clarify exactly what you are looking for that you or others can refer to someone asking a question in the post. I can't answer as I've only looked at the early Z wiring in detail, but it seems odd for the blinker wiring to go through the floor so I can identify with others as to the confusion. I'm finding a note that the part number was used for a fuel pump relay, might be something else to check. I do know the pins are a standard spade connector so you could wire in a modern relay if you can pin out the contacts and make little adapter lengths, I've done that for some older plugs before. Identify power, ground, switch ground, switch power, and output. Then you can use any modern automotive relay.
  3. 2 points
    katman? Where the hell has he been for the last 10+ years? Oh, that's me, back from the dead. That thread may have been on improvedtouring.com. Assuming your friend also has to run the stock drum brakes, here's how we made brakes last in an ITS car, which at the end of its development was probably as fast as any CP vintage car. I don't know what compound Carbotech has today, but back then the HT-9 was the only thing that would hold up to the heat on the front. The HT-10's that replaced them were not as good, but that was about the time that SCCA pissed me off by outlawing remote reservoir shocks so I quit thinking about Z brakes. I ran both the Nismo rear shoe, and the relined Carbotech shoe, I think. We cryo treated rotors and drums. We ran the parking brake so we could adjust the rears during the course of a race. That and having an adjustable prop valve so you can make the rears take their share of the load is critical. If you aren't turning the friction surface of the drums blue, then you ain't there yet. Scour the junk yards and find every Z drum you can find and have them turned and expect to rotate in a new set every weekend. Up front, don't fall into the trap of using a pad that maximizes the pad material, in other words instead of this | | , you want this \ /. The outer radius of the rotor runs hotter because its going faster (linearly) and wears the pad faster. Nothing worse than having to pump the brakes every corner to take up the slop from tapered front pads, maladjusted rear shoes, and expanded rear drums. We drilled holes in the backing plate on the rears for some cooling, but not much else you can do back there. Up front we ran three 3" ducts on each side, one to the hub area of the strut to cool the bearings, one to a custom "can" that blew air on either side of the rotor, and one that blew into the caliper overtop of the pads. That one was tricky to make as there isn't a lot of clearance between the caliper and a 14" wheel that we had to run. I also drilled a series of small holes around the periphery of the pistons just behind where they contact the back of the pads so air could circulate behind the pads from the aforementioned duct over the pads. PM me and I'll send you some pictures.
  4. 1 point
    Sometimes people discover that the rear caliper bleed screw hole is not actually the highest point when installed after these conversions, because they're not designed for Z cars. It's close but still has a spot for an air bubble. They have to unbolt the caliper and rotate it so that the channel to the bleed port really is the highest point. They bleed the brakes with the caliper loose, then rotate it back and bolt it down when they're done. Be the bubble.
  5. 1 point
    Sounds more like they were just bad shocks/inserts from the beginning, or they were actually the wrong ones for the car. The oil in the strut tube would have had no effect. It's on the outside of the shock body. It doesn't move at all as the suspension moves. Just a pool of oil, sitting there, doing nothing. KYB makes a good product. Good luck.
  6. 1 point
    I don't know a ton. Previous owner had it for 10 years. Didn't drive it much. Kept it fairly clean. Owner before that was in TX. Very little scale rust. Clean car. It's been swapped to an L28. Has round top SUs. 5 speed trans. Definitely some work on it here and there, but fairly stock, original. I've changed the oil and plugs. I'm going to do trans and rear end fluids asap as well. I drove it home from the seller, 90 miles. Mostly back country roads and some highway. It'll do 70+ no problem. But it doesn't FEEL great. For a beautifully running 73, I'm happy to far. I got a crazy deal on it, $4500. Been a dream car since I was a kid. So I couldn't be happier.
  7. 1 point
    Thanks for taking things in stride. The title change I'm sure helps. The point on semantics is pretty clear, if you search combo switch as per the previous title, it brings up hundreds of links to the headlight combo switch, and a few on the blinker/high beam combo switch which are a very common problem. Switching relay module or mult-function relay per the part number brings up much fewer, but more specified posts, using the part number you get very very specific, but few posts. If someone else in the future is looking for the same CA specific relay switching module for the blinkers or turn signals it should now pop up and you will potentially be their savior pending the solution. Don't worry you aren't alone, when I announced I had ordered pipe for my tubular control arms, people were quick to correct me or to make sure I was using the right material. In my mind I know I meant tube, DOM A513 to be specific, but coming from fluids and flow I was thinking pipe, slip of the fingers and now I had to sit and try to convince people I wasn't trying to build structural components from used rusty drainage pipe. I think it is clear now that you are looking for the CA specific switching relay module/multi function relay, or a work around for that. In the early cars the lack of relays did send a lot of amperage through not so great connections, so I would suggest maintaining a relay point rather than a direct wire unless you are using low amperage items like LED turn signals. Pin it out and swap to a modern relay using male spade connectors to a 4 or 5 post 12v automotive relay. I have to say this forum was such a place, at least 9 years ago when I joined. My first posts I was dinged for grammar/capitalization. However, that is part of the character of this forum. You get a specified knowledge base that is immense, in return you may have to do a once over on your post and try and use the common term. So I will say don't throw the whole forum or forums in general under the bus. Keep in mind we could not be here if it wasn't for the generosity of donations and the hard work of those on the network end. We almost saw closure a couple years ago and then you would be relegated to searching through facebook posts. We are more oriented around engine swaps, suspension tech, and such. Looking for stock replacement parts, you may have an easier time on classiczcar as they are excellent at finding and maintaining the stock Z platform and will most likely have found a more bolt in/plug in solution if you are not familiar with pinning out relay wiring. You might try datsun parts and needs as there are a lot of Californian members, ratsun as well who may be able to find you a used replacement part.
  8. 1 point
    Goodness I love this forum, you really can find everything. Quote from this thread: Pretty sure that is what happened. I measured what I did and found that I was sticking 13mm past the flange of the aluminum spacer at first, that caused the pre-load on the master and the exact symptom of the brakes coming on and staying on. Then on the side of the freeway I moved it down to 6mm past the flange and the car drove back with no problems. I have it currently set to 9mm which is in spec, but I will be checking for preload and complete release to make sure I don't run into problems again.
  9. 1 point
    Will be interesting to see how this changes things
  10. 1 point
    Not a problem. I can make as many as there is demand for. And who ever is on the fence can always just wait for results from either my car or another customer before contacting me for anything.
  11. 1 point
    Maybe try old school bleeding methods before the pressure bleeder. As Miles suggests there might be air in the MC. An air bubble might not get pushed out of the MC by a pressure bleeder if the MC is "nose up". Be the air bubble...where would you hide?
  12. 1 point
    If the rear cylinders were leaking there would be fluid. Did you see any? Sounds more like a bad MC. The front and rear systems are stacked, in series. If one seal fails the pedal will drop that distance until the second one catches. Your new MC might fix it. Here's a drawing, they're all the same. The right seal contains the fluid, the other two create pressure. You can see how you can lose one but keep pressure on the other end.
  13. 1 point
    Thanks! A 240 tank would work fine too because I'm 85% sure I'm going to put a surge tank in anyway so having the baffles or larger flow may not be as necessary. It has been a challenge but we must soldier on. I'm open to options so I'll check them out. I did not. I think people with carbed cars like them because they come baffled from the factory so it's easier to convert to EFI.
  14. 1 point
    The links jhm & calZ are great. For a street car what I have found is that if you strengthen the frame rails then do some basic strut bars the car is plenty stiff for your needs and if you want to a bit more then do some further bars just for the towers; this will avoid needing cage. If you do want to race you would just need a hoop but for street there is no need. I added some pics of my rails and others have done similar versions. I did another 240Z where we found great boxed rails that were thinner and fully boxed so we just welded that on the bottom and eliminated welding inside the car; easier and similar result. This way your car is more street and others driving with you will appreciate not being in a cage. I own a more caged Z as well but when you get older you will find women often do not want to be in a caged car, maybe just a hoop but nothing more...
  15. 1 point
    Not a JCR whale tale, but it’s still pretty cool. GLWS
  16. 1 point
    It's 36.3. You should check between filter and rail. If you're getting 60-70 before the filter you might have a clogged filter. But, in short, no offense...you're doing things wrong. Stop the random stuff and get in to the FSM or the EFI Book and do things the recommended way. You'll save time in the long run.
  17. 1 point
    Good catch. Thank you for pointing that out.
  18. 1 point
    TacticBurger, Do not post in an ad unless you are genuinely interested in buying. No negative comments will be tolerated. If you don't like something, walk away. And fix your location.
  19. 1 point
    All my suspension clunking is gone. The car is extremely solid now. The steering is a lot more reactive also. Overall I can't wait to try it out on the 21st at Buttonwillow. Also started the process of rebuilding an SR trans and and just waiting on a machined L series bellhousing right now from Godzilla Raceworks
  20. 1 point
    Poly bushings on the compression rod? You'll need to replace the poly bushing on the back side with a rubber bushing - otherwise you'll probably break the compression rod. Ask me how I know... There are a fair number of thread posts regarding the issue.
  21. 1 point
    I appreciate the review of the brake pad materials. I'm curious why you have not gone to a vented front rotor? That's the main reason I am changing from stock S30 brakes, as I like to drive road courses and brake cooling seems to be important. My setup will be 280ZX front calipers with turned down Z31 front rotors and Maxima rear calipers with late S130 rotors; I am shooting for a 280ZX-type brake system, so I will also swap in the 15/16 MC and late S130 prop valve. I would like to report results this summer, but there is so much to do on the car...
  22. 1 point
    1978 280Z Turbo Rebuilt L28ET 300ZX ECU reprogrammed by Jim Wolf Technologies- 91 Octane only Mustang Cobra Mass Air Flow Sensor 4-Piston toyota caliper front Disc brakes. Rear has original brakes. 5-Speed tranny with R-200 rear Tokicos 5-way adjustable shocks Front Mount intercooler Manual Boost Controller Turbo timer Reupholstered seats All new window seals Newer carpet Alpine Stereo -clean title Asking $16,000 OBO The headlight/wiper switch and Speedometer are not working speedometer stuck @85,xxx. No head liner. No A/C 323 717 Fifty Eight Forty. Text me if you have any offers or questions
  23. 1 point
    I am working on putting a passenger seat in my race car. Driver's side is on a slider and the mount on that side is totally different but thought I'd share how this non-adjustable pass side is going in. First thing was removal of the stock mount. I had done this on the driver's side 10 years ago or so and remembered it being a big PITA. I did not remember wrong. I really hate trying to get all the spot welds loose. I tried a spot weld cutter and ruined it after successfully cutting about 10 spot welds. Unfortunately there are a lot more than 10 spot welds holding the stock mounts in. After that I tried air saws and other tools, but finally ended up with the tool I hate (and use) the most: 4.5" angle grinder. I used a cutoff wheel and hacked the stock mounts out and ground down as much of what was left as I could. Pro tip: I had been using ear plugs but figured out I could use my new bluetooth over ear headphones to listen to music and podcasts, and I could hear my phone ringing and customers on my website chatting with me, etc. Huge upgrade. I cut the stock mounts out and stuck the seat on the brackets in the car to figure out where the seat mount would be fore/aft. Then I measured from the seam in the floor behind the seats to where the seat bracket would be. I drew a line on the floor where the rear of the rear mount tube would be, and another one 2" in front of that. I had already figured out that there was going to be 6 1/8" between the front and back tubes, so I measured another 6 1/8" and drew another line across and another one 2" in front of that. So now I've got 4 lines across the floor marking where the front and back of each tube would be. Then I cut long strips of 2" tall cardboard, and trimmed them to match the contour of the floor. I then traced them onto the 2x2 tubes and used an angle grinder with cutoff wheel to shape the ends of the tube. Getting the front and back templates lined up correctly is kind of a pain because the trans tunnel isn't straight, so line them up on the outside where they hit the rocker. and leave a little extra on and then grind to fit. On the driver's side I cut into the bottom of the mount tubes to clear the little hump in the middle of the floor. On this side I cut the hump in the floor. I think cutting the hump is easier. After the tubes were cut to shape and fit reasonably close to the contour of the floor, I welded in two 6 1/8" tubes to connect the two and spaced them to fit right where the subframe connectors are. Next I needed to locate the seat laterally. I put the mount in the car and set the seat on its brackets on top of the mount, and figured out where I wanted the seat, then drew lines on either side of the brackets. Knowing where the nuts needed to be to bolt the seat in, I cut square holes in the top of the tube. Then I cut 2 x 2 pieces of .100" sheet and welded nuts to them to bolt the seat brackets to. After that I bolted the 2x2 plates with nuts to the seat brackets and set them on top of the mount and tack welded them in place. I unbolted the seat and brackets and finished welding the plates in. Next I'll weld the top ends of the tube to the rocker and the trans tunnel. I'll stitch the two longitudinal tubes to the subframe connectors. I used a LOT of heat on the driver's side and melted through the floor to get good penetration into the SFCs. My floor was pretty bashed up when I got this car, so the floor doesn't fit perfectly on the bottom of the 2x2 tubing. Plan there is to beat the floor up to the tubing after the mounts are welded on the ends, then stitch across the front and back of the tubing to attach the tubes to the floor. That's today's project. The mount on the driver's side was as long as the slider for the seat, so more like 12". Like I said before, much different on that side.
  24. 1 point
    For my '71, I had the local high school metal shop cut one out on their plasma cutter. I gave them a pattern traced from the later style boot, including the screw holes. A real life project for the students and no cost, or skill required, for me. Win/Win! Dennis
  25. 1 point
    The current prototype... modified to use 5/8" bolts directly, without the sleeves on the Z31 mount, this saves some cost.
  26. 1 point
    On my '71, I cut a slight arch out of the console where the shift lever hit. When the leather/vinyl shift lever boot is in place, the cutout is not seen. Dennis
  27. 1 point
    So I found a true Nissan TPS at the JY and it is so much more accurate ! Don’t even know what model it came off of, but it works. Didn’t need to preload it or anything
  28. 1 point
    That is weird. You could release the three bent over clips (picture below) and pull the axles, leaving the sealing plate behind. Maybe you'll find something odd. Maybe they fastened the sealing plate on then assembled the CV afterward. People do strange things, like they did on your inboard CV. I posted a link to where my earlier picture came from that showed a source for the axles. They were used on 2+2 280ZX's or turbo 280ZX's. They're hard to find and sometimes the aftermarket parts are different. If you find one at a parts store take your old one to compare lengths. https://picclick.com/2x-CV-Joint-Axle-Assembly-Rear-Fits Datsun-280ZX-253130612896.html
  29. 1 point
    It's a spacer for the flex plate. You need to remove it anyway to mount your flywheel. Pretty sure it just pries off easily. Then the seal will be exposed.
  30. 1 point
    Hello HybridZ, just joined and wanted to say hi as i have some big plans for my 280z. Long story short, i currently own a fully build evo8, LS swapped FD RX7, and recently got into the S30 life. i had a 260z that i was going to fully restore, then found a 280z that fit my needs perfectly. Anyways, i just wanted to say hello and i am looking forward to all your support as im certainly new in the classic car world VIdeos Buying my 260z Buying my 280z 280z overview I put my 280z on a dyno
  31. 1 point
    Yep thanks wiring is ok. I found the problem, the voltage meter got damaged/jammed by sandlast media going in there during restoration process.... Will try to find another gauge..... Thanks everyone for your help!
  32. 1 point
    Will message you regarding purchase. All other questions covered in PDF https://www.dropbox.com/s/23dj8il5rru20i3/Z31%20Turbo%20CV%20axle%20ConversionV4.pdf?dl=0
  33. 1 point
    1975 2 seater with what we call over here the Californian floor pans due to the provision of a bulge for the cat converter of the day and a very irregular metal pressing check back when I have the pans this isn’t as hard as it looks
  34. 1 point
    I have a pair available. If you are interested email me at zedsn@hotmail.com
  35. 1 point
    I'm replacing most everything on my Z, and even trying to go as cheap as possible on everything, and using lots of junk yard parts and doing 100% of the labor myself, I still can't find a way to spend less then 15k. A much better way to do a "full" upgrade, would be to upgrade everything else that isn't engine related first (brakes, suspension, chassis strengthening, seats, paint, bodykit?, etc) before you touch the engine. As soon as the engine comes out, you'll want to upgrade everything "while you're there". At this point, just add 3-5 years onto whatever time budget you gave yourself unless you're one of those crazy singular focus ultra driven workhorses that apparently has no other hobbies. Man I'm jealous of those people. There's an Australian guy on youtube right who documented pretty much every aspect of his Z restoration. You might want to give his damn near 90 videos a watch and see if that's what you want to do. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCk_vb_SJctymCkwnF6sAwDg
  36. 1 point
    Dutchman Axles used to be a local company, then moved to Idaho. They're much smaller then Mosier, but big enough to not screw it up when you explain what you want.
  37. 1 point
    I honestly think these parts are pure bling....which is ok....but I don't see any performance improvement they would provide at all.... It seems to me there would be more benefit if they designed a part that tied together the rear control arm bushings, since they sit out somewhat cantilevered away from the body, I could see where there would be relative movement between them when loads are introduced. Even then, the benefit would be minimal, since the TTT conversion already has the "dog bone" tying them together. It would primarily be lateral movement rather than fore and aft movement, and these TTT parts seem designed only to address the fore and aft. As someone else mentioned, the control arm bushing mounts are tied pretty solidly together fore and aft by the control arms themselves. I think TTT knows that if they crank out cool, machined, anodized aluminum parts that bolt right into place, people are going to buy them just for the bling alone....without really thinking through whether there will be actual performance benefit. IMHO, these parts are a perfect example of that. I could see some appeal if the replacement front cross-member was at least designed to facilitate a dual exhaust....but it isn't.
  38. 1 point
    Ok, just took the 77/280 off the rotisserie so had a chance to weigh it, this is just the shell, all paint was removed then 2 coats of epoxy primer were applied and 2 coats of undercoat, the only thing left on the car is the vinyl headliner and the 2 rear wheel arch vinyls. Now I'm not 100% on this method but I couldn't think of any other way to do it with what I had on hand. With the car level the rear measurement was taken with the car hanging from the rotisserie bar that bolts on where the tie down hooks usually are, then jacks were placed under the rear rotisserie bar and the front was weighed hanging from the front rotisserie bar that is bolted to where the bumper shocks attach just in front of the radiator support. I checked the accuracy of the crane scale by lifting my small anvil which I know is 118 lbs and it was bang on, I have to apologize, I forgot to take a pic of the rear measurement but it weighed 289 lb, front was 246 lbs 289lbs 246lbs 535lbs minus the 6lbs of the rotisserie bars, is 529 lbs Someone with better geometry skills than me will have to verify if the method I used is valid.
  39. 1 point
    Lol yeah, I assumed as much. Figured on that first compression/decompression plastic ones would pop fairly quickly.
  40. 1 point
    Not much to report as the weather in the mid-west has been less than desirable. I got all of the drum brake parts removed and realized that my driver's side rear wheel bearing is starting to go bad. I attempted to use my slide hammer but have been unsuccessful with getting the stub axle removed. I'm waiting for a warmer day (anything above 50*) to take a space heater out there to warm up that area, blow torch it a bit, and then use the slide hammer again. Several parts arrived in January, which is always exciting. I snagged the AZC Mustache bar and brace used for about $250 less than retail. I was also able to find and buy a really clean finned diff cover, which pretty much completed the rear diff set up. At this point, it feels like I'll never have the rear end work done in time to drive the car in the spring, but I'll keep pushing through. I attached some pictures of the new parts below. I haven't mentioned this in my past posts, but I'm the outside sales manager at C&R Racing. I'm personally working on product development for many different platforms, including swapped S30s. The engineers and I are working on a dual pass set up that will work with both LS and RB/JZ swaps. I can keep everyone posted on that development in this thread.
  41. 1 point
    Not much to report. It’s been a rough year in far NorCal. Record fires last summer, and record snow this winter. Lost tress and fencing around the property and had to shut down the office a few days without power anywhere. Hoping and praying for an un-eventful weather pattern for spring and summer with plenty of opportunity to run the Z.
  42. 1 point
    Dang I can't find the link from a couple years ago. I think I saw something on Kameari's website about reproducing new castings of the mk63 calipers. They had pics of the rough castings pre machining. I had to translate the japanese obviously. I can't find it on their site now. It was awhile ago though maybe it wasn't Kameari. Parts Assist M Speed has the new units though. I know I wasn't on their site when I saw the post about the castings from a couple years back. These were a factory Z, hako, caliper for vented rotor. I'd run these. Not sure what the "stock" rules mean in his class but the mk63's were the road racing caliper back in the day weren't they? (I don't know too much about the old factory race car setups from back in the day) I've always assumed the mk63's were the homologation brake for one of the lower sports car classes. https://www.rhdjapan.com/parts-assist-m-speed-mk63-4pot-caliper-brake-kit-s30-s31-b110-gc10-kpgc10-pgc10-kgc10-kpc10-pc10-gc110-gc111-gc210-gc211.html *I would ignore the rotor diameter callout in the RHD description. Also, found this on the "other forum" should be some info in here. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56999-looking-for-a-set-of-sumitomo-calipers-mk63/ Kameari should have a stock vented disc http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/Catalogue-v3/catalogue-075-20160731.pdf
  43. 1 point
    I used the eastwood on my car. It has the consistency of water, so cover under the car when you spray it because it will start coming out of all the holes, seams, cracks, etc.
  44. 1 point
    Thanks for the feedback! 'Plug and play' is definitely the goal here. Re-engineer as little as possible. Good news is that the STI diffs are getting cheaper. They've gone down a couple hundred from when I sourced one for my 510 a few years ago. I'd run the same setup for my 280z but I'm working on a potential R200 solution instead. If I understand your question, the OEM STI inner housing is not swap-compatible with the axle I source. I tried several ideas with no luck. The R180 STI stubs are welded onto the CV housing in 3 different locations. One weld along the entire perimeter of the stub's flange, three .4" plug welds through the flange into recessed pockets within the housing, and finally one large plug weld on the underside of the flange through the center of the housing. It's not coming off.
  45. 1 point
    Motor is rated for 120 hp 179 ft.lbs peak. I should get somewhat better acceleration around town than the stock L28 (particularly since I get peak torque now from 0-3500 RPM), but with a reduced top speed. Continuous power output is only ~40hp, so based on that and gearing/drag calcs I've found online puts top speed around 90-100 mph (this car has the 5-speed transmission), which IMO is plenty fast for a 40 year old tin-can of a car. I expect around 90-100 miles of range out of this once everything is dialed in (suspension leveled out, front aero cleaned up, etc).
  46. 1 point
    I was supposed to get the fuel hoses done, I ordered 5/8" and was sent 1/4" so I'm put off another week from finishing my fuel system. Still have plenty to do so next on the plan was to get the wiring done. This week I was able to get the rear section done. This is the first time I ever rewire a car and I think I'm doing pretty good from the condition the wiring was in before. I reused the old connectors with new terminals where I could instead of splicing new wires with old wires. It doesn't seem like a lot but it took a lot of time to research and plan what wires from the EZ harness goes into factory locations. Next week I'll have the front finished then may need help from a buddy to do the ignition and dash. I'm just saying, if I ever get rid of this car the next person will get a deal, the interior has been stripped, POR-15'd and Lizard Skin'd, new wiring and new interior ready to go in. And that's just a start. Video below, Subscribe if you don't mind. I'm working at getting better at making them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQTnTDAq1U8&t=9s
  47. 1 point
    Don't do this. Have patience, and spend more money (if necessary, vastly more money!) on a car with fewer problems. Otherwise you'll spend 5 years doing rust-repairs, 5 more years doing structural reinforcement, and 5 more years nursing your wounds after you realize in year 11 that new rust has already formed where you had replaced the old. Alternatively - and it sorely pains me to say this - look for a less rare, less rust-prone vehicle of comparable low weight... such as a Mazda Miata.
  48. 1 point
    Searching facebook never works that well for me. I love forums.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    This thread really helped me out; I recently bought a '72 240 off of eBay. It was great but the drivers side door had to be slammed to the point of concern or it would not fully latch. From inside the car it was very difficult. After finding this thread in a bout of restlessness last night; I went to Lowes and bought a 36" piece of 3/8" PEX pipe. PEX is made from polyethylene and is pretty similar to nylon in hardness and low friction. I trimmed a 3/8" piece off and made one cut along the side. After submerging it in boiling water for a few minutes, I formed it around the 1/2" handle of the x-acto I used to cut it with. It snapped right on the contact lobe of the door latch. The door closes almost without effort now. 15 minutes for both doors and $1.60 in materials. No grinding.
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