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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/27/20 in all areas

  1. Getting ready to paint the interior of the body shell. While working on this project, I have sort of been pondering how best to rustproof all the non-original lap joints that have resulted from the assorted modifications. Where possible, I primed the blind side of all the parts I welded on with epoxy, but there is still going to be bare metal (burned off) in close proximity to all the welds. There are also multiple seams where I removed the OEM seam sealer/paint and the epoxy in the course of stitch welding the shell. Since these cars like to rust as they come from the factory, and this specific one had pretty much dodged that bullet by living it's life in the desert, I did not want to add potential future corrosion areas....at least no more than absolutely necessary. Searching the internet for information on rustproofing car bodies during restoration revealed surprisingly little information. There is no consensus on the best way to do this (short of dip-priming, which for all practical purposes is unobtainable). As usual on the net, there is a wide variety of opinion, and those who seem to know the least are the ones who state their opinion in the most aggressive and obnoxious manner. I have some past experience with POR-15, some of it good, some not so good. But their recommendations for prep practically insisted on using their brand of metal prep followed by washing the surface with water. My project has huge areas of bare metal, and this just sounded like a questionable plan. I couldn't see how I could possibly dry it all quickly enough to avoid flash rust all over the place, including in many areas that I could not easily access to remove. I don't know if this is really absolutely necessary, or if POR-15 just wants to sell their metal prep. But I believed their advice, which led me to look at other products. So I tried "Rust Bullet". I tested it on some scrap metal, it adhered very well even with marginal prep, over light rust, you name it. It was also totally compatible with an overcoat of the epoxy primer I am using in the next step. It is an "apply on rust" product, which I wanted in case some unreachable surface rust has appeared in some of the lap joints during the time I have been working on the car. So after scuffing and cleaning everything, my next step was to apply Rust Bullet, with a brush, to all the joints where I felt there might be a danger of future corrosion. I chose the brush over spraying because it allowed me to force the chemical deep inside the joints in places where welding probably burned away all the primer. Next step is a light scuff on the Rust Bullet, overspray the joints with epoxy primer, seam sealer, then an overall coat of epoxy followed by single stage color. Then, Lizard skin sound/heat in specific areas and finally cover that with Raptor Liner. Thanks for looking.
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  2. I made contact with Ohm on his personal fb page, got a quick reply. That was a couple of days ago. He was getting my request taken care of, so good to get a reply, and hopefully will get what I need soon. thanks for the input
    1 point
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