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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/22/19 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    You're going to want to bleed the system afterwards, so it's really not worth worrying about trying not to lose brake fluid during the conversion to coilovers. (Unless you leave the entire system intact, and hanging on hangers during the conversion, as Leon suggested.). Also a good time to replace your soft lines, if necessary, as Jon Mortensen suggested....consider replacing the stock rubber soft lines with steel braided lines, as well.
  2. 1 point
    I come back every time I'm banned...with this year meaning of the prior three months I've only been on FB maybe a total of 14 days. They are seriously PC and nobody can take a joke. They are also EXTREMELY Eurocentric-Communo/Socialists and anything that deals with anti-communist or anti-socialist in any way will get you scoped and flushed. They also are Anti-Goodwin, with the mere mention of Adolph, or even his face in a humorous meme poking fun at his stupidity will get you banned for 30 days. Then, while you're gone, apparently they assign some snowflake to comb through all your posts and start tagging ANYTHING that they NOW deem offensive. The Best one was last year they tried to ban me for a post that showed up in one of the FB "7 Years Ago Today" auto-posts... Go ahead and share it and BOOM BAN! not even 15 seconds. "Hey, YOU GUYS SENT IT TO ME!" Whiskey Tango Foxtrot??? The upside is, I have a lot more time to do other things. For the first time in years my Quicken is up-to-date with proper balances on ALL the accounts!
  3. 1 point
    In 2002 I started a collaboration with John Radevich of JCI in Dallas, Texas. The goal was to build my 1977 280Z into a daily driver using an LS1 and T56. Ya search of "LS1 / T56 Update" will give a lot of the history of that project that resulted in one of the first S30's on the road with that combination in June of 2003 and a conversion component kit sold worldwide by JCI. Since then over 16 years and about 45,000 miles have passed. The car has been raced on quarter mile tracks, done the combination oval and infield at Texas Motor Speedway, done autocross work and a hillclimb. In between those fun events it has been my fair weather daily driver. The move from Texas to Washington state eliminated winter driving due to the corrosive deicing material used by WSDOT. Could it have been done better? Back then, probably not, but today definitely so. I'm happy to see all the aftermarket equipment available for these cars. I used to only shop at Motorport Ajuto in Orange, CA (zcarparts.com) for my bparts but with the drivetrain conversion my world was opened up to Arizona Z Car, Techno Toy Tuning, Silvermine and so many others. Every year that has gone by has seen the development of quality parts and systems for these cars - like zledslights.com down in Weslaco, TX and Dapper Lighting with their LED lighting conversions and Braille for their great Lithium Ion lightweight batteries IMG_4214.MOV IMG_4214.MOV . One thing that has remained constant, however, is the quality of the designed parts and equipment provided by JCI during that project so many years ago. To this day I have not had issue with any component designed by them. Thanks John, you did well for me.
  4. 1 point
    The engine is in and bolted to the front mounts. And it appears my modified brackets will work. Whew! Here are a few photos.
  5. 1 point
    Well I don't see a reaction disk in there.... Edit: also based on the crustynes of the booster and the fact that i can get one from autozone for under $100 with tax and shipping I plan to just replace it.
  6. 1 point
    Sounds like reaction disk issue. I saw you said you had checked it, but that's what I'm seeing looking at your post.
  7. 1 point
    Engine has been slightly bored to get some grooves off the cylinder wall. Aftermarket forged rotating assembly (wet sump) putting the engine at 12.5-1 compression. Stage 3 cam from texas speed. Hawks 3rd gen long tube headers.
  8. 1 point
    The amount of help on here is extraordinary. I appreciate all the advice, I'm doing as suggested and picking up some books, but mainly diving into other builds more. I'm also trying to take smaller bites, or at least take a section on at a time so I don't end up with the "Paralysis by analysis" bug. I decided to just take my time/and tear it down to frame.. get it blasted then primed in 2k, which will allow me to make any adjustments during the 2jz/(154 or CD009) . Thanks again for the advice guys..
  9. 1 point
    Here's the latest on the bracket saga. I tried three sets sourced by Summit Racing, and when the third set (made by Grove) was going to hit stuff, I bit the bullet and fabricated (actually, I modified the last set I got). The folks at Summit were super about the returns, but when the third set didn't work, I felt embarrassed. After all, three times! I used 1/4-inch aluminum plate to make the modified parts, and used as many parts as I could of Grove's stuff. The compressor is off now, but with both in place, I measured and measured, and I am now certain--well, almost certain--that these will work. Here are some photos.
  10. 1 point
    Do you access to a good flaring tool? If not consider something like this,https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pro-brake-tubing-flaring-tool-with-45-and-37-degree-die-set.html It's the best flaring tool I've ever used and if you don't think you'll ever use it again you can sell it on Craigs and get a big chunk of your money back. The one I bought has done complete brake lines on four Z's now and still shows no wear.
  11. 1 point
    So my wife just test fitted the parts as best she could (6 months pregnant with a 2 year old running around) and took the following pictures. Now before saying they arent going to fit, i believe the part of the fender flare that "rolls in" in the back behind the tire is making direct contact with the metal not allowing for it to be fully seated. I believe that once the fender is cut away, the flares will fit properly. she is going to try the rear fender flares on later.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    thanks D9inger!!! that is one bueatiful engine.
  14. 1 point
    Some after market master cylinders do not have the large reservoir in front. As long as the master cylinder is correct in all other aspects then it doesn't matter. You can always swap the front reservoir from the old master cylinder onto the new one for a "stock" appearance.
  15. 1 point
    Hopefully you don't mind me adding my experience today. Didn't use anything except the saturn vue column and a 77 280z column. I figured a few more pictures of different setups in the thread is always helpful. I cut down the saturn telescoping joint so it would fully collapse and removed the thicker bottom portion of the female portion as well as turning it down about 1mm so it could pass through the datsun bearing at the firewall. Making it collapse fully let me just expand it to whatever length I needed without worrying about measuring the section behind the power steering motor. Then I could weld the original u-joint to the saturn telescoping joint, and pass the whole thing through the original firewall mount after grinding down the welds. Because the power steering motor was free in the rear, it wasn't as solid as I would like. Particularly the steering wheel could have tilted up because it was only held in with the two mounting screws under the dash. So I added an extra brace that seemed to stiffen it up nicely. Washers are a little sloppy I know, but it works and lets me adjust tension. All back together, doesn't stick out too much. I did remove the control box and bolted it to a thick aluminum plate as a heatsink under the dash. Seems to work just fine, haven't had a chance to drive it, I'll update tomorrow.
  16. 1 point
    Well after loosing interest in my previous car (2008 corvette ls3). I wanted to get something pre smog and ended up getting a early 74 260z roller. Was essentially a bare roller but cleaning the floors up was already done so a great starting point. 2 months later had it on the road with a lq4, ls3 heads, boost cam, a sprinkle of nitrous and a t56. My main goal with the car was to just build something that was a blast to drive and it does that well. So far been to a couple 1/2 mile events, been to the 1/4 a handful of times. Still need to do a road course event and maybe try out a drift event with it.
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