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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/14/22 in Posts

  1. Nothing quite feels like saying "Project Complete". When the car goes from being a Project to a Driver/Tinkerer car. 13.5 months, 413 days to make her a clean driver again. From being a 50 year old, dog eared "potential", to back in the game.......LONG journey. Blessed beyond measure and to have a 240Z now....is incredible. Thank you Lord Jesus. (build is chronicled under 240Z projects, "joe's 240Z adventure, if interested.)
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  2. I would say a week + 10 posts, and see how that works. I think banning new members from posting links could also help.
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  3. I bent the 240 pedal a bit so my throttle cable went through the firewall opening correctly. Your's looks like a 280 pedal, much thicker metal. I wouldn't be afraid to bend it. If the stop and cable are adjusted, it should only ever be fighting the spring tension on the throttle body.
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  4. In your videos the starter and battery sound fine. If you watch the tachometer needle it gives a pretty good clue that you're either losing power to the coil and distributor or the ignition module is going bad. The needle does not budge when the engine is not starting, it should be showing the engine's RPM while trying to start. You can test the first possibility, loss of power to the ignition system, by watching a meter attached to the positive lead of the coil with the key on and when you try to start. Voltage should be maintained above about 10 volts. If you don't have power there then focus on that. It would be worthwhile to clean the connections to the coil and ignition module and see if things improve. The old E12-80 and E12-92 modules are known to go bad eventually though. Wouldn't be a surprise if that was the problem, although they usually fail when they get hot. p.s. the magnet under the stator ring is known to break on those distributors also. That might cause a low trigger pulse to the module at starting RPM. That kind of fits your symptoms. It's not obvious, you have to remove the breaker plate and lift the stator ring to see it. Also, one reason the magnet breaks is because the shaft bushings on those distributors wear out allowing the 6 pointed reluctor wheel to contact the stator ring. Here is a good resource showing some of those things. The result of a worn out bushing is shown way down at the bottom. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html
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  5. To add to this a bit, even though they aren't for the front, I just received some adapters I designed to put modern BMW speed sensors into a short nose R200.
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  6. I found I needed to change the rear toe-link design from left-right threads to using different thread pitches as it was super sensitive when adjusting. I planned for but never made it far enough to change this all over to shims. I wanted a faster at the track way to make changes that didn't involve needing a lot of precision and had to be repeatable. I noticed most of the pro teams and car designs from 2000 on starting using that method instead of left-right threads. Your 3D printed tool reminds me of the flag alignment system I've seen some of the formula car guys use. It mounts over the top of the chassis and uses that to establish center. Measure camber, caster, track this way. Flip 90 degrees and measure toe. Much quicker than strings to setup and make adjustments.
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  7. Thanks, and for some reason that's the filetype my iphone saves them as (I'd never heard of it either). Hopefully these will work...
    1 point
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