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dreco

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Posts posted by dreco

    Brake Issue...baffled

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I"m going to "check" on the check valve.  I did not remove them.

     

     

    1. Tell us what year Z you have as there are differences in the hydraulic systems.

     

    1972 240z

     

    2. There are residual pressure valves in the outlets of the master cylinder. They look like a piece of rubber with a spring. Remove them.

     

    Will Do

     

    3. You should not have two proportioning valves (PV).  Having two PVs can cause problems other than what you have mentioned here. If you have for example,  a 72 240Z, and you have installed a PV in the rear then the stock PV should be removed. On later model Z cars you need to understand what the PV does before removing or modifying it.

     

    My understanding it that the stock 'proportion valve' (engine compartment) in a '72'  really isnt one (only the restrictor valve in the rear)

     

    4. The other question is why do you need a PV in the rear? 240SX rear calipers are  typically undersized relative to most so called "front brake upgrades". So unless you  are experimenting with high friction rear pads to fix front - rear balance issues a rear PV is not required with 240SX rear calipers.

     

    Installed it prior to going with the big brake kit up front.  I only had the rear disc brakes at the time.

     

    5. You can relieve pressure to the front or rear brake circuits by opening the respective bleeder on the MC if you need to limp home with dragging brakes.

     

    its up on jack stands.

     

    6. In my experience, the front brakes will lock up after a few stops if the booster push rod is too long. It doesn't take much as the return port in the MC is small. The push rod can be adjusted without removing the MC from the car. Just unbolt it and push it to the side.

     

    I adjusted the rod all the way back just to make sure.  There is play in the rod.

     

    7. So remove the residual pressure valves, recheck the brake booster push rod length, and road test the car.

     

    I'll try the check Valves.   I wouldnt think it would be possible for the brake distribution block in the engine compartment could hold any residual pressure, but it's the only thing I havent replaced.

    Brake Issue...baffled

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    The rod from the pedal to the booster, in the cabin, might be too long.  Not allowing fluid back in to reservoir.  It's been discussed many times if you want to search around.  "Sticking brakes", "brakes won't release", etc.

     

    If this was the case, pulling the clevis pin on the brake pedal should release the pads without opening the bleed valves.  If it's the booster, then loosening the MC from the booster should do the same.  A quick check of the mechanical pieces.

    its not that.. checked that.  

    Brake Issue...baffled

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted · Edited by dreco

    I have modern motorport rear disc brakes with AZC front brakes.  I have an adjustable proportion valve in the rear of the car.  15/16 master cylinder with stock brake booster.  Brakes were fine for a while.  Now a bad brake drag has developed in the front.    I changed master cylinders, rechecked booster shaft clearance and brakes still drag (after one pump of the brakes).  Both front calipers lock up.   I can bleed on either side and it frees up both sides.  Cant figure out where the residual pressure is coming from. Any thoughts?   Could it be the stock proportion valve in the engine bay? or could the rear proportion valve be the cause ( I wouldn't think this due to being on the rear circuit.)

    Techno Toy Tuning Strut Brace

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    These all look great, but I guess ya better pair them with some TTT adjustable LCAs if you wanna increase negative camber as needed to actually make a Z corner. My car pushed like a mother till I got camber plates. Pushed with and without a strut brace. If you look at johnc's picture, I think he has busquit style bolt in camber plates to get his camber. That's a quick and easy way to get it done. But, I don't know if losing one of three bolts per side of the strut bar would render it too flexible (?). Just try to think about what your next modification might be before you start laying down time and money. I personally do a lot of "one-step-forward/two-steps-back" spending. This part kinda looks like an opportunity to do some of that. But it does look cool, can't argue that.

    I'm running the BC bolt in coilovers with stock control arms and the adjustable control arm bushing. Running -2 degrees of negative camber in front and -1.5 in the rear.  Plenty of oversteer.  (275 tires, square set up)

    Techno Toy Tuning Strut Brace

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Most all of these style strut braces do nothing but add weight anyway. The spherical bearing can move around, which completely defeats the purpose. A completely welded solution would be a lot better, but the adjustability make it easy fit to any car.

     

    What I have done on my recent build is to weld 3/16" steel tabs to the shock towers and firewall (with reinforcing plates), and used clevis rod ends that fit snug onto the tabs.

     

     

    Still not as good as welding, but certainly better than a spherical bearing.

    Eventually I'll be welding bars through the firewall, but i'll try this for awhile.  We'll see how it holds up from my track excursions ;)

    how do you feel your engine swap changes the character of your Z?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I've driven my Datsun with a 3.0L stroker and now an LS6.  I did like the sound of that L6 stroker motor, but I sure dont miss SU Carbs.   The LS6 makes more tq at idle i think haha.  I also love the driveability of my modern fuel injected V8.  Add headers, 3 inch exhaust and a straight through muffler and it  sounds amazing! 

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwaXXpC9MK4

     

    A Datsun is a blank canvas to me.

    Please share your BC coilover feedback. -ride quality, comfort, impressions

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted · Edited by dreco

    Love the video. Camera mounted on roof? Remote microphone? How did you get such good exhaust note to pick up with all the wind? I love MSR!

    Thanks, there is more video...just havent uploaded yet.  I use my iPhone 5 with this this phone mount http://www.amazon.com/iStabilizer-ISTMG01-Glass-Windshield-Mount/dp/B00895AUBC/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1432822002&sr=1-1&keywords=iStabilizer+ISTMG01

     

    I had just put the new coil overs on, so I wasn't going to go 100 percent.   Otherwise, I would have used my Go Pro and had my iPhone hooked up to my PLX Kiwi2 with trackaddict app to overlap my obd2 data..

     

     

    Techno Toy Tuning Strut Brace

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    That is a very menacing engine bay. Like how the blue seems to match nicely with the blue on the 6

    Thank you!  Glad you noticed.  I know this Datsun is more track car than road car now, but why not make it look nice too.

     

    Dreco, where the heck are all your wires? That looks clean!

     

    Haha.. It would look worse if I did the wiring haha.  I had sourced that part of the install sourced out.  They did a great job routing the wire harness.

    that looks great ! :D LS6 :wub:

    Thanks!

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