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Posts posted by zgeezer

  1. How do I wire my Ls1 engine harness that is wired to allow the engine control module to control two radiator fans.  My aftermarket loom is terminated with two relays: one for the low speed fan and the other for the high speed fan.  My fan is a two speed ford Lincoln unit.  I would like to wire it so as to be controlled by the GM computer.  Does anyone have any schematics or photos of the Ford fan being controlled by the GM computer?




  2. I used the a/t shifter out of my 240Z.  Pulled it out, removed the transmission actuating arm and swapped it over from the passenger side to the driver's side.  Mechanical connection with a rod threaded to fit the shifter arm and the aftermarket adjustable arm on the transmission.  Perfect fit to the transmission tunnel.


    Neutral lockout will be wired (I hope) through GM's plastic lockout switch on the driver's side of the transmission.


    Sorry about the general language; but if you can get your hands on a 240/260Z or early Maxima, automatic shifter all will become clear.


    I did this because I wanted to preserve some semblance of a stock Z interior.



  3. On 6/11/2020 at 10:22 AM, 280Z-LS3 said:

    What is the spacing on the John's Cars A/C bracket?  Can it be ordered in one of three LS spacings, Corvette, F-Body or Truck?


    The spacing between the supports is the same for all three LS, because that spacing is determined by John's a/c compressor.  That being said, I've installed Johns a/c kit on my truck engine.  I cut a .75 spacer out of AL and used it to space the entire assembly forward to match my truck alternator and crank pulley.  Looks good.



  4. If you are using  JTR's radiator and mounting, a Lincoln Mark VIII two speed fan with shroud is a perfect fit.  Need only cut out a portion of the shroud to give more room to remove the radiator hoses.  Two "L" shaped brackets for the bottom , 4 pop rivets to secure the brackets to the bottom of the JTR bottom mounting bracket and you are ready to go.  Flashes 50 amps on startup..Big fuse and relays recommended.  Some Thunderbirds may also work.  This is not the smaller Taurus fan.  JTR's first 240z/csb engline swap manual  used a top radiator mount from a 71 or so Nova with v/8.  If you are using this piece  to mount your chevrolet radiator, the Lincoln shroud mounts as if stock with three sell tapping screws.  If you have the JTR manual,look at page 12-2.








  5. This is the relay on early 240z with Automatic Transmission that is mounted on the firewall near the battery.  It works with the inhibitor switch that is mounted on the passenger side of automatic transmissions.  It prevents ("inhibits") startup in any gear other than park and neutral. These are no longer available from Nissan.


    Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the interior of this relay.  Something that one might be able to use to construct a functional equivalent using modern relays?   Or, in the alternative, does anyone have one for sale or trade.



  6. I've embarked on the installation of a Vintage Air evaporator, using John's Cars compressor and mounting, and a stock copper condenser  out of a 280Z.


    I like the condenser because it is a perfect fit.. bolts in with existing bolt holes and the high and low pressure line align with the radiator mount.


    This unit has been stored for a number of years with duct tape covering the orifices of both lines.


    The lines appear to be 37 degree cone and very similar to either jic or an fittings.  Does any know what standard  fitting was used on 280z condensers?


    I  need to match my condenser (37 degree or so cone)  to the"O" ring fittings of the compressor and evaporator unit.  Does anyone know of any adapter that might make the transference.


    Finally,  local a/c guys advise me to ditch the 280Z condenser in favor of a newer after market AL unit with  "O" ringed fittings.  The reasons they give are: 1.  the high and low pressure fitting, being a flare of some degree, are inadequate and will leak refrigerant;  that the copper construction does not transfer heat as well as AL,  and that my 280Z condenser is contaminated by the oil that was used in the '70s  and can not be adequately cleaned or used with the current refrigerants.


    So can anyone tell me:  1.  What standard are my condenser's fittings?  Are they JIC?

                                               2.  Are the newer refrigerants (134a ?) incompatible with flare fittings?

                                               3.  Is oil contamination a real problem or is it something that can be cleaned up by any radiator shop?


    I've read Tony's discussion of CU versus AL and condenser sizing, so I don't see the construction or size to be a problem.



  7. I really "need" an OEM 280Z radiator overflow bottle.  No interest in aftermarket or "it'll fit" swaps from other cars.  I have two early "D" hubcaps [series I-- '70/'71] that are in reasonable shape, plastic "D" slightly faded, but pins are good and the chrome is good to about 3 feet.  These  hubcaps are NOT painted, are either chrome or stainless, and are not bent up.  Straight across trade.  You send me a usable bottle with cap (I don't need the mount) and pay for shipping.  I'll pack these in two pizza boxes and send them to you.  Photos available if you have the bottle.





  8. Ok, I wish to replace the fusible link from the passenger side rail to the starter in an early 240z.  I have the harness side intact.  I do not have the link.  The quick disconnect is a latchable plastic holder with one male blade on the body side and a matching female on the link to the starter.  That blade is an unusual size.  I believe it is something in the order of 10 or 10.mm.


    Does anyone know where I might find these connectors and latch "box"?


    I am not interested in purchasing a complete fusible link: only male/female/and plastic connector.  With these connectors, I expect to wire a relay/breaker/fuse box without sacrificing the body loom.









  9. They ALL had fuel pump cutoff in case the engine stalled:


    Earlier Versions had a set of contacts in the AFM that would enable/disable the fuel pump.


    Later Versions had a contact inside the Oil Pressure Swtich that would enable/disable the fuel pump.


    It is a FMVSS requirement. The inertia switch can be a PITA because it shuts off the engine on a bump and you have to reset it. Ford Tempos were notorious for getting bumped in parking lots and being rendered inoperable till someone came out to reset the switch (which was in the trunk!) The Rangers were mounted on the passengers floor under the carpet---really accessible places to have to go and reset your car. On the Tempos, you would play 'bumper cars' with Rentals: Bump the co-worker in front of you hard enough to stall him, but not hard enough to damage the 5mph bumpers permanently...which is all the bump you needed to disable the car.


    I prefer the stalled engine shutoff, myself...

    I had noticed that later 280z's have an oil pressure with two male blades configured in a T. Does anyone have drawing of the internals?   If it is a simple ground contact, then that may be as simple as wiring the ground side of a relay directly into one of those terminals.  It can't be that simple.  


    I need something to kill the electric pump in event of an accident.



  10. I had a similar issue on my '70.  Bare shell, missing engine compartment wiring, hacked body harness, and a "clean" instrument harness with plastic terminals that turned to powder at a touch. My combination switch and the spare were badly corroded from water intrusion into the heavy duty black plastic tote that I used for storage. [summer heat and water in a semi sealed container destroyed all white plastic terminal ends and corroded the aluminum].


    I purchased a complete 24 or 28 circuit wiring package from Ron Francis wires..


    I decided not to do a complete custom re-wire; instead, I purchased a '72 engine harness and stuffed it and the other two harnesses into a box and shipped them all to Dave Irwin in Washington state. What I received back was a completely  refurbished harness that could be installed in a day.


    The expense was less than I paid for the Ron Francis wires.


    Here are the pros and cons as I saw them.


    1.  How many circuits did I need.    As this would not be daily driver, not a race car, I needed more than a few circuits.  As this Z would not be equipped with aftermarket hydraulics, heavy sound, power mirrors, GPS, flashing wheel well lights, 120 watt light bars or any of a host of other aftermarket power drain, I could do quite well with the 10 or so circuits of the stock Z. 


    2.  Reliability  I know there are Z owners here that consider the Z wiring scheme to be something designed by LUCAS or that the phrase "reliable Datsun Z wiring" to be an oxymoron.  The weaknesses and idiosyncrasies  of the Z wiring scheme are well known and largely curable, most by simple plug and play harnesses.  I did not trust my wiring skill set to be adequate to guarantee my wife that we wouldn't lose lights some night somewhere between Caliente and Ely, Nevada. Remember, my use is as a driver that will see [i hope] a lot of highway miles.



    3.  Stock Interior  I did not wish to alter the interior from stock.  My desire to keep a stock appearance dictated that I would live with the Datsun combination switch.  Mr. Irwin was able to add a plug and play sub-harness that incorporated a relay for the head lights.  A major design defect of the Datsun wiring solved.  I chose to retain the Ammeter.  Perhaps not a wise decision, as Mr. Irwin could have easily modified the instrument panel harness to use a 280 voltmeter.  But, again, I wanted a stock interior


    4. Personal Growth  I did not factor into my decision any element of acquiring new skills or taking on a new challenge.  To be honest, if I were retired or 20 years younger, I would have gathered my friends, a few cases of beer, 20 pounds of carne asada and wired it like a Chevy over a weekend.  Yeah, that combination switch would be dumped in favor of something from Flaming River or GM.



  11. You're right, of course, in that the mc is still on the car and not in my vice.  However, I'm looking for some direction as to why one side of the MC pumps and holds pressure, while the other does not.


    I suppose my real question is rather or not these "symptoms" would point to a mis-adjusted rod or a faulty bleeding procedure or a faulty/corroded m/c.


    I'm looking for direction.





  12. I am bleeding my master cylinder while installed in the car.  The power brake unit is from a 280zx 2+2 and is approximatly 10.5 inches in diameter.  I've run a clear plastic tubing  from each master cylinder bleed port to its corresponding fluid reservoir. I've filled each with DOT 5.


    After two strokes pushing air, the front reservoir has a complete cycle: fluid enters the tubing and on the second stroke completes the circuit and re-enters the reservoir.


    The back reservoir is different. On the first stroke fluid fills the tubing to almost the level of the loop back into the reservoir.  However, upon releasing the pedal, the fluid immediately returns to the master cylinder, leaving nothing in the tube.  On the next stroke, the fluid from the back reservoir will elevate in the tube; but, then immediately return to the master cylinder.


    The brake pedal has a distinct feel to it:  It has a 1/4 inch of free travel before it engages the master cylinder.  Once engaged there is a smooth transition (with a tad of resistance) throughout the stroke until the very end.  At stroke's end there is a distinct "click" both felt and heard.  The pedal returns to the up position  easily and smoothly.


    This master cylinder was purchased new several years ago and was filled, briefly, with DOT3 before it was removed, drained, and stored on a shelf in my storage unit.


    I carefully measured the brake rod length on the bench with the vacuum unit out.   I "think" that dimension  is ok.


    In terms of troubleshooting, what should be my next step?


    I have another new 280zx ('83) that looks the same; but, the mounting ears are horizontal rather than vertical.  Is the later unit a "bolt one"?









  13. I need one, maybe two, combination switches refurbished.  Can you help me locate someone that will do this service?


    I've read that a Dave Irwin in Washington state will refurbish 240-280Z combination switches.  I understand that he has posted here relating to wiring the Honda Civic wiper motor and over at Classic Z under the name similar to Z'SONDABRAIN .


    I know of a website "Datsun 240Z Upgrade" located at 6421 105th St NE in Marysville, Wa 98270.

    However no-one responds to emails  sent to their website "contact us" address or USPS first class mail to the above address.


    I would prefer to purchase from someone who supports this site.


    Any help would be appreciated.



  14. Back in 2002 a member "Brad" posted CAD or other file type with the dimensions of an aluminum panel to replace the stock plastic inset that contains a courtesy light, heater controls, and center vent.  His panel had a number of variations including all gauge, radio, and heater control cutouts.


    Are there any old timers here that downloaded and buried that file for future reference and would be willing to share it with me.


    Failing the file, does any one have contacts with  "Brad", the original poster.  I belief the file contained the following information... logos perhaps.  "Omniglass" "Brad"  "240z Com".



  15. I've received my water pump and compared it to a pump off a LS3 crate motor.  They are the same as to the radiator connections as both have driver's side horizontal piping.  The Camaro pump is spaced about .75 inch forward.  The original truck pump mounted very close to the engine block and the pump "snout" that supported the pulley and mechanical fan was spaced forward.  The Camaro pump uses the same pulley as the LS3 crate engine, but the entire pump stands away from the engine block.  Truck water pump spacers used to mount passenger car pumps give the same effect.  I'll mount photos if I can figure out how to reduce a very large file down to something less than one megabyte in size.


     LS1tech forums state that the straight thermostat cover from  1998-2000 Ford Windstar 3.8 v6 will bolt to a later Gen III water pump.  Don't know if the GEN III thermostat would fit; but one would think the Ford 'stat might work.



    The retaining bolt bore centers for the Ford Windstar straight thermostat cover are very slightly narrower than the  late Camaro pump.  The solution is to run a 5/16th inch drill down both Ford bores.  This opens up the Windstar retaining bolt bores just enough to allow the use of a stock GM 10mm thermostat cover bolts.  The Ford thermostat appears to fit nicely.


    The Ford Windstar thermostat cover is a $9:00 item.  An aftermarket GM straight cover will run about $50.00.  That would be billit item with o rings as a seal.  The Ford item uses a simple flat gasket.



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