zgeezer

November 11, 2012

You may need a much longer spacer to get the axle geometry to fit.

I ended up using a 1.340" thick spacer. It all depends on which pathfinder axle you get, and what companion flange you are using.

Put your axles together, then measure what you need to get the axel travel correct.

I understand. The companion flange is MM's first set: 280z with adaptor welded on. They are a bit longer than MM billet flanges.

Which pathfinder did you use? I have a choice of several V6's: all early and middle 90's.

Did you use AL? What alloy?

G

g

November 11, 2012

I'm upgrading my rear cv axles by adding the short axle off a Pathfinder. This requires a .5' thick spacer between the cv joint and the stub axle.

What is the preferred material to use: mild steel or aluminum? If it's aluminum, how 'bout some help regarding the choice of alloy. I've searched the web for aluminum "drops". There are several different alloys... some quite pricey. 6061, 6063, 7075, and 2024 seem to be the most common. Additionally, some are tempered as T6, which I understand increases the strength of the alloy.

My real question is which of these alloys is preferred for wheel spacers?

Finally, is there any reason not to buy a 6 inch round drop and machine it to .5 thick rather than a .5" plate drop and turn it to fit.

G

October 18, 2012

I am still in need of one. When I made my last custom exhaust system, I modded mine a bit so I included it with the exhaust when I sold it a couple of weeks ago. Looks like mine is 70-72 specific.

Garrett

I have one I think is from a 70 series 1. It has an arm with rubber tip that appears to contact the pinion housing. I'm out of country at the moment.

October 1, 2012

I am looking at a 260 that has those chrome pinstripes on it. Are those just on with adhesive or are there mounting tabs on them? Trying to figure out if there will be mounting holes I need to fill when I remove them.

Thanks,

Zach

On my '70 they were mounted by pins on each end and adhesive for the rest. Dealer installed, I think.

September 27, 2012

Has anyone been able to find a 14" tire that will fit inside the small tire well? If so what size?

Depends which 280Z you have. The early ones without the "platform" will accept full sized 14" wheels/tires that have a diameter close to the original stock 240z. I know of no 14' wheel tire combination that is as small as the inflatable spare in the later 280s.

g

September 25, 2012

Are these what you're talking about? I think I have some on my parts car.

That looks right, if the "spokes" are rough as in "cast". Do you know the rim width? What size tire are you running? How much?

g

September 17, 2012

I stop using washers when I went to the larger all thread and nut.

I have never had any issues since then also.

Thanks again,

John

Going washer less worked well for me on the first pull; buuuuuuttt, the second was another story. That acme all thread [yep, that's what its called] can really put the pressure on. I used a 250# impact wrench and bell mouthed the galvanized outer pipe along with collapsing two threads. It also galled the bj out of that 17/16 nut. After searching for another nut [$17.00 + $5.00 shipping] and deciding that the price was not right, I rummaged through my junk and found a wheel bearing from one or another of my projects that was just slightly over 11/2 inches in diameter. Put that on, greased up the all thread and hit it with the impact wrench. Pulled that puppy out quicker than you could pick your nose.

This tool will be in my trunk along with a 24V lithium battery powered impact wrench and a 20 inch crescent wrench on every foray into JY . Thanks for designing it. Well worth the bux.

G

September 13, 2012

If I were doing my swap over again, I'd take a very good look at the 3.8 L Ford v6 in the new Mustangs and trucks. My brother just bought one with a 6R80 AT for $1,000.00. [sacramento, CA and it is missing some sensors] While this is going into an early Falcon, it looks good to fit the Z tunnel with some reservation about the AT. These are base engines, rated 305hp and, if one is to believe the ford forums, they are underrated and thought to put 300hp to the ground. The 6r80 looks wide and high enough to require rebuilding the transmission tunnel.

g

Hey guys, been browsing the forums for a few months and definitely learned a lot. That said, I've got a pretty in-depth question about engine swaps for the 240z. Reason I'm asking is I'm 23 years old and really want a great DD/track sports car while I'm still single and don't care too much about lumbar support. I'm absolutely in love with the 240z, but am concerned that it might not measure up to newer sports cars without throwing down some serious money. I fully realize this is an apples-to-oranges thing, but I specifically have the Honda S2000 in mind.

SO... before I get a 240z I'd have to settle on an engine swap, and here's what I'm looking for:

1. 275-350 rwhp. The L24 may have been great in 1971, but it's really old and woefully underpowered in 2012 (even by BRZ standards). On the other extreme, 400+ hp seems excessive for a 2400 lb street car.

2. 6 cylinders a must. Being made by Nissan or being a straight-6 would be cool too. I like the idea of staying true to the 240z's roots, whatever that means.

3. 25-30 MPG. I'd want to keep this car for a while and am pretty darn sure gas is going to $8 a gallon in the next decade.

4. Handling. Higher midrange torque is nice, as is an engine that sits further back and helps with weight distribution.

5. Fuel injection. Kinda necessary given my horsepower & gas mileage expectations, but I also don't want to have to warm my car up every cold start.

6. Ease. I'll be doing most of the work myself and would want to get the swap done in 6 months tops. 2 or 3 months would be great.

7. Low cost. As in I don't want the entire swap+upgrades to cost more than $10k. I also don't want something that breaks down a lot or is expensive to get parts for. A great engine is important, but I'd rather save as much money as possible to put towards handling upgrades. While I'm on the subject, I'd prefer a NA engine. The way I see it, turbos are just a $1,000 expense waiting to happen. You can baby it to delay that $1k service bill, but that's no fun. In short, I'm strongly against turbos for everyday cars.

8. 5 speed transmission. 6 speed would be better. Also, the stick should definitely be able to fit in roughly the same spot as stock.

9. Room for A/C. I've heard this is a problem with the VQ series. Is that still the case with an entirely new system? (Like a Vintage Air unit?)

From research I've done already, there aren't any engines out there that fit the bill perfectly. I'm also somewhat aware of the pros/cons of the most common swaps. My big question is which engine do you guys think BEST fulfills the above requirements? L28? RB25? RB30? VQ35? VQ37?

September 13, 2012

These, along with slot mags, were common dealer installed options in the middle '70s. They are eight spokes, rough cast centers, machined lips, and often copper/gold color. They look like these: Mini Lite

If you have one or more, send me a PM. If the price is right, I'll pull the trigger on PayPal.

G

September 5, 2012

Ok im prepared to get flamed for asking but I searched and searched and couldn't find what I needed. So my question is will the factory automatic console work with the 4l60e or do I need to buy something in order for it to work. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Not really a problem. I've installed an LM7 with 4160E automatic transmission into a series 1 240z. Very narrow tunnel. I used the following kit: lokar column shift. Here are the steps: 1. Remove your shift unit out of the console. Note that the long "shift arm" is on the right side. You will remove one allen headed set screw and disassemble to unit. You will reinstall the "shift arm" on the left side. You may have to slightly dress the head of the set screw because it will have some interference when you move the lever down into "low".

2. Install the lokar billet adjustable arm on the transmission shift shaft so that it is vertical with the small narrow end pointed to 12:00 o'clock.

3. At this time you will have the shifter arm closer to the center line of the tunnel and the lokar arm very, very, close or interfering with the transmission tunnel. Massage the tunnel to gain clearance to move the lokar arm through all of the AT gear detents.

4. Now, you must construct a rod to connect the long shifter lever with the lokar transmission lever. I used heim joints such as provided by the lokar kit. It is NOT a direct line of sight rod. You will have to bend, measure, bend again and move both levers through their rotations before you have the right "angle". The problem is that the levers do not share the same planes. I used 1/4 copper tubing to mock up the connecting rod. When you have a shape that works, I suggest you transfer it to the thickest steel rod you can find, fit, and bend. This has to be stiff and the curves you will put on it to clear the transmission will encourage flex.

5. When this is done, you can now spend a lot of time and magic words to adjust the geometry between the arc of the console shifter and that of the lokar unit. Lokar has two adjustments: a serrated base and a pinch groove. This will provide you will more adjustment than you will use. The problem lies at the other end of the rod: the relocated Z shift arm and the plate that provides "detents" for the Z shifter.

6. If you wish to have access to all AT gear selections, you will probably have to modify both the Z shifter arm and the detents in the shifter itself. Not easy to clearly explain, but you will know instantly what needs to be done when you have the Z AT shifter out on a bench. It is all a matter of geometry.

7. At this point, my rather flexible rod allows me to shift easily through PRND. To get the use of the lower detents, I will have to spend more time on modifying both the console shift arm and the Z's built in detent plate.

At about this time you will be looking for an aftermarket cable actuated shifter. That will be much easier to install. I've gone the stock shifter route because I'm looking for a "stock" appearance and I'm pretty cheap.

Hope this helps.

I'd post photos, but for some reason I lost access to my photo albums with the last software swap. (Any one have any help here?)

g

August 31, 2012

I had the chance to test drive for 1hr a Nissan GTR and I come up to the same conclusion.

Level of performance is incredible, passing slow car on the raod is just so easy. I went up to 210kph while passing a car that I was following just 5 second before running at 70kph (the speed limit). it was just ridiculous.

My friends were driving Z's in front of me from time to time, they were fighting with their steering wheel while I was driving with one hand looking at features on the dashboard behind with the GTR. I had no fun at regular speed limit (or even x2 times speed limit), the GTR was just too good & too comfortable to enjoy driving it.

I was actually quite happy to get back to my Z after this experience, it's so much more fun.

For me, the only time I could really take advantage of 500hp+ would be at a drag strip or making that pass around a tractor and 55' trailer beginning at 55mph. Then, I could use the HP. Meanwhile, my DD continues to be a Mazda Mx5 MazdaSpeed with a longer gear set in the back and a hard top. Not much HP... less than 180.., but little turbo lag and a great connection to the road. It makes little difference in the size of my smile, whether I'm driving over to the local stop & rob or have just come down the 18 from Big Bear to San Bernardino: its a great ride. My 10 year Z project will be my replacement for the MS... a little more comfort in the passenger side for my partner and, yes, about twice the horsepower.

G

August 28, 2012

I've got two that I pulled to replace with the MM style billet. $75.00 + shipping, PayPal only. Can ship tomorrow afternoon. Stub axles only no companion flange.

G

I'm looking for a 27 spline stub axle out of a 280z to replace the one that a shop somehow managed to bend when they pressed my new wheel bearings on. Must be in usable shape (threads not completely chewed up and flange not bent). I only need 1 but will buy two if required and I need it pretty quick... Let me know. Thanks!

August 25, 2012

If you have any left, I'll take one. Please PM me.

G

All pullers shipped...

I only have 4 or 5 left and will not make anymore...

Thanks,

John

August 23, 2012

Yeah, it's "that" pin connecting the strut to the lower rear "wishbone". I have PayPal. If you have one in straight condition with good threads, send me a PM.

G

August 2, 2012

So I talked to a lawyer one word Moron, he basically told me his game plan was the one I already had. So I left there and went to insurance lady good news they evaluated my car already. So I hear this and get ultra anxious sit down she shows me the numbers some good news some not, the good they are offering me 7k for the car. I paid 1k for it and put 1 k in to it so net profit I seriously thought they would offer me less than 1k for it. The crazy is I can buy it back for 1.5k I think not I have never paid more than 1k for a z although prices have really gone up in the last couple years, this thing is toast. So I passed. Next I ask about max coverage amounts on the guy who hit me, apparently this is no no. So I explain my position and the fact I need answers because between my girlfriend and I we are at 25k in bills with many more to come she says OK since you are that far along his policy is 25/50. So now I have to give her copies of my bills so far, what she told me is if my bills are that amount already she will issue a full policy payment of 25k a piece to my girlfriend and I 31 days after the accident. So then I will use that cash as a bargaining tool to drop prices and help negotiate better prices for the dental and chiropractors that are next. I was trying to keep my V.A. doctor out of this but since he is free I think I will make an appointment with him for my follow up head scans and evaluations. I cant do any better than a full policy payout well I could sue but turnips don't bleed blood. Oh and I found out that his truck is not getting fixed because he was using it for commercial purposes, I.E. delivering pizzas with out a commercial insurance plan. Apparently when you use a personal vehicle for work stuff regularly you have to call the insurance and declare to them the true nature of your intended use which increases your insurance to a 50/100 policy minimum I guess. NOTE.... This is Colorado and 25/50 is the state min on insurance.

Let me repeat.....go to another attorney... see the post above. That pizza parlor may have some liability in this. Different states have different laws affecting liability, but every state imposes liability on a master for the negligence of his servant in course of doing the master's bidding. This is employee/independent contractor stuff. Check it out before you sign anything with Progressive or Progressive.

g

August 2, 2012

So I was delivering newspapers and a pizza delivery guy in a Tacoma ran a stop sign at about 25 miles and hour and hit me while I was doing 50. Now my car is no more. I am hoping that some on here have experience dealing with insurances over z cars and can offer advice. His insurance policy and mine is with progressive not sure if that helps or hurts. I was unconscious for 7 hours my girlfriend was out off and on we spent 24 hours in the hospital and three days later still cant see straight I have to close my left eye to see anything right otherwise it is major double vision. Strangely enough no bruises on either of us but major concussions and her ankle is all jacked up it swelled up about twice normal size. My fear is I get disability from the V.A. for my ankle and my knee was just about to get approved and now the crash made them both worse so I don't know how that is going to play out. but here are pics

A "pizza delivery guy" you say. Well, you might have another insurance policy available to you: the pizza business (franchise) that requires employees to use their own vehicles for delivery of the franchise's goods. These laws are different for every state; but, given the fact that you were in another state of mind for 7 hours and have severe double vision and $25K of medical bills I'd recommend you talk to another attorney. Avoid the splashy video ads of some dude who looks tough into the camera and intones "I'll fight for you!". You need experience. Look for someone or a firm, that advertises $1.0M jury awards. Or, better yet, there are publications that track jury awards and will tell you the attorneys that are winners or losers. In Colorado, look here.

Don't stress the Z, look out after you own health.......some of this stuff doesn't show its head until 5 or 10 years down the road.

Good to hear you are alive.

G

August 2, 2012

So I talked to a lawyer one word Moron, he basically told me his game plan was the one I already had. So I left there and went to insurance lady good news they evaluated my car already. So I hear this and get ultra anxious sit down she shows me the numbers some good news some not, the good they are offering me 7k for the car. I paid 1k for it and put 1 k in to it so net profit I seriously thought they would offer me less than 1k for it. The crazy is I can buy it back for 1.5k I think not I have never paid more than 1k for a z although prices have really gone up in the last couple years, this thing is toast. So I passed. Next I ask about max coverage amounts on the guy who hit me, apparently this is no no. So I explain my position and the fact I need answers because between my girlfriend and I we are at 25k in bills with many more to come she says OK since you are that far along his policy is 25/50. So now I have to give her copies of my bills so far, what she told me is if my bills are that amount already she will issue a full policy payment of 25k a piece to my girlfriend and I 31 days after the accident. So then I will use that cash as a bargaining tool to drop prices and help negotiate better prices for the dental and chiropractors that are next. I was trying to keep my V.A. doctor out of this but since he is free I think I will make an appointment with him for my follow up head scans and evaluations. I cant do any better than a full policy payout well I could sue but turnips don't bleed blood. Oh and I found out that his truck is not getting fixed because he was using it for commercial purposes, I.E. delivering pizzas with out a commercial insurance plan. Apparently when you use a personal vehicle for work stuff regularly you have to call the insurance and declare to them the true nature of your intended use which increases your insurance to a 50/100 policy minimum I guess. NOTE.... This is Colorado and 25/50 is the state min on insurance.

Full policy payout works; but, I'd read your policy closely for language like this: "per occurrence combined single limit bodily injury/property damage or "bodily injury by accident, each accident" In a 25/50 policy this would mean $25,000 for both you and the GF.

g

July 24, 2012

Hi Gollum I noticed you were from Vacaville, I used to live there. Grew up in Fairfield, FFHS graduate.

Small world. I lived in Vacaville across from the Buck mansion, solo'd out of the Nut Tree Airport, taught at Vanden HS, and practiced law with Solano County Legal Services. Drove Fiat 124 Sport Coupes and I still eat at Murrillos in old town Vacaville.

The town lost much of its character when the garlic/onion drying facility shut down. You could identify Vacaville at 10,000 feet by the pungent smell of onions or garlic.

Still, a very nice place to live.

g

July 18, 2012

Good god. For that kind of money, I could live with my welded diff FOREVER.

If the R&P were 3.15:1 or 3.36:1 it might be worth it.

g

July 12, 2012

Exactly.

I've swapped a few S30's over to modest rear discs, purely for consistency. Most of my activities are street and autocross (where repeatability wins races). Stock fronts, appropriately sized rear discs, prop valve, and a proper set of pads have served me well... even with V8 power.

I glean that those who did the Maxima rear disc brakes, stock fronts, and a Proportioning Valve are likely to have a balanced set up. What about those of use who have the MM 240sx rear discs? Given the MM240 zx rear discs, what would be a better front set up: the stock rotors and calipers with quality pads or stock rotors with the Toyota solid disc calipers?

I understand that "better" is a four letter word, but my choices are limited. Today, I must build around the MM mount and rotors and it appears I will forgo the Toyota vented rotor calipers. What are the realistic options? Arizona Z and Silvermine are priced waaaay beyond my current budget.

g

July 10, 2012

The Scion FRS/Toy86/SubiBRZ is cheap, but it has the modern comforts, it is not so old that the plastic is disintegrating. My list of mods would include getting more grip and getting the suspension to handle more grip, upping the horsepower significantly, sweeten up the interior and electronics, and try to avoid the exterior mods.

I am beginning to think I could make it an interesting project that could require a great deal of engineering skill and creativity to deliver the experience I want. I can imagine MORE POWER, lighter weight, lower CG, more grip, and a better electronics package would be one hell of a challenge.

The Scion looks like a great car; but, if you want a modern sports car with impeccable handling and a cheap price: here is your answer. Bear in mind that these can be coupes with the drop of fiberglass top.

g

July 3, 2012

Ok, here's what I have: one 240Z gas tank modified for a internal pump from an s12. The tanks on the S12 are very similar to the S30: high on one end with a flat bottom under the spare tire well.

Given the similar shape of the tanks, I think the S12 gauge sender "might" also be "non-lineal". Are they compatible with the stock S30 gauge? Does anyone know the ohm range for the S12?

g

June 28, 2012

No. But i'm super pissed that i payed $150 for it.... from a junk yard... so i cant return it.

I realize its an open diff, but it has a 3.54 ratio? I checked it last night after i saw what it was. Question: Will the 300zx axle shafts work in my stock 78 r200 diff? Because i have that part of the conversion ready to assemble, along with the stub axles and companion flanges. At least that way i could get rid of the bad u-joint sounds... even if the diff will still be bitching at me.

Any help please?

Yes, I put a set into an early R200 long nose open differential. 3.54:1 is a good ratio; I would think even with mt6 in place. They are not too common.

G

June 25, 2012

I've seen both of those in the 60's and 70's. Both are old school and might not be more than 7 inches wide. Are they worth buying? If they are complete and cheap... sure. The bottom style I've seen on '70s muscle cars as a dealer installed option. Sorry no idea of manufacturer.

g

June 19, 2012

I wish this was cheaper... but I think it has given me an idea for making an EFI manifold from a SCUBA ali pony bottle or Spare Air bottle! Add MS and turbos...

http://www.clarkospe...&products_id=35

Intakes for the 400 would be limited, the taller deck height would mean the head faces are further apart and the valley is wider, so 351C manifolds would not work on a 400.

Not really a problem. These manifolds are "dry" so all that is needed are two spacers.... essentially widen a manifold. I've seen a 400M running '70 351C 4V heads and intake manifold. Obsolete, certainly; but, you can make good HP and serious Ford fans have a cure for every ill ever suffered by Cleveland engines. Here is some more information regarding similarities/differences between the Cleveland engines.

g

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Posts posted by zgeezer