zgeezer
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Posts posted by zgeezer
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Thanks, I like the stance and old school louvers.
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Ok, I need help with the math. I have a set of aftermarket alloys that I ran on my Mazda mx5. These wheels are 7 inches wide x 15" with an offset of +38mm.
I understand that the stock '71 Z offset was +10
The bolt circle for the Mazda alloys is 100mm; my datsun is114.3 mm
I have located billet adapters from 114.3 to 100mm.. The adapters are available in two different widths: 1 inch and 2 inches.
Am I correct in calculating that I would need an adapter that would be 28mm ( or 1.1024 inches) thick..
Here are the adapters I am considering: adapters
Please comment.
g:unsure:
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I've got the axles totally rebuilt off the car using a vice and getting help from my daughter. JMortensen, we are on the same basic sheet of music. In the axle rebuild, the main problem was my lacking the confidence to strike as hard as necessary with a 3 pound sledge. Once I committed to that it wasn't a big problem. I just fought and fought with inadequate hammer force because my dad was a rocket scientist and I'm an eye surgeon. The concept of pounding something into submission is just difficult for me to face up to. Once committed to the amount of force required, it was a breeze, just like you said it would be. I put my daughter on a stool and had her do the hammering while I massaged the c-clip and kept constant pressure on the shaft. My neighbors were probably spreading rumors after hearing me yelling: "Hit it harder, sweet-heart! Harder! Harder!" People always assume the worst in Alabama. It was a little scary with her swinging a 3 pound sledge right over my head-I'm surprised she didn't take advantage of the opportunity to give me a little attitude adjustment.
I and others have had some trouble getting the (already assembled) inner CV end of the axle to pop in and out of the diff, once the diff is installed in the . That is what I'm referring to. I'm sure that too, is just a matter of me being a sissy. And the lack of a chassis lift doing this on my back. I'm getting a pretty good cussing vocabulary, which always helps just about everything. It is almost 1200-noon, I need a beer just thinking about it.
I use a large cold chisle and a middle weight hammer. The chisel is used as a tapered ramp...not to cut. Lay the flat of the chisel 90 degrees to the cv axle on the differential and slide the point/cutting edge of the chisel under the cv joint dust shield and tap it. Move the chisel around to apply pressure at different points on the circumference of the joint. Easier while laying under the car than using a screwdriver as a lever.
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When you discuss checking for CV axle bind, I think you mean to unbolt the OUTER CV (typo?). You can't unbolt the inner CV; it has no bolts.
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I used to be a ford dealer tech but got out in 2007 .I had to do some home study on this engine.Found the specs here http://www.meadowlan...ngine-specs.htm Seems it is a base f150 truck engine.the 6 speed auto would keep the engine in a tight rpm range right where it produces its best power.10.5/1 compression and can run on 87 octane or e85?That z is probably getting 30 mpg on cheap gas.Cam running on bucket cam followers like a motorcycle valvetrain.Since this engine didnt come out of a performance car it will be cheap to buy .found out it is also used in a mustang with a manual trans.This is what hybrid z is really about-taking a chance and doing something different-not following the crowd.
Yea, you bet that Z would be quick. The v6 Mustang is very quick. Most auto mags put the 1/4 mile times in the 13th and around 102-105mph with the 6 speed automatic. This is MotorTrend's take on the 2011 Mustang. A lighter Z with a 6 speed automatic may very well be a 12 second...110mph toy..... stock.
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Want to go down that road? Oh man, it's why I got into S30's to begin with. They're the swap queens! But yea, I get your point and why I won't knock the idea. I just found it curious to spend money on RWD conversions when there's already a perfectly good RWD DOHC V6 platform that's affordable on the market. I think that's the very reason we don't see many northstar conversions. Yes the motors are cheap, but there's just so many RWD V8 options so much easier to do.
Hey, I'm glad you saw the light! I agree there are so many other RWD V6 and V8 options out there to choose from: GM covers both V8 FWD and RWD with their 6sp transaxle and LSxxx engines; Ford Ecotech V6 with or w/o pressure are chewing up 1/4 mile times and get incredible gas mileage; and now the newer kid on the block.... actually not a new kid, just the funny nerdish social climber with a really foreign name who thinks RHD V6 or 5 liter DOHC v8's and 4.6 liter DOHC V8s are going to get him some attention or street cred. Ford has already been there and done that and I don't care if the nerd claims 385 or 429 hp. Even the numbers are Ford rip offs. I can tell you that this nerd and his family will never amount to anything. They'll find themselves in some low end junk yard someplace in Nevada and no one and I repeat no one will will even care. What's that you say? An eight speed automatic transmission? Gawd... how "new money" can you get. They copy Ford and now they're so pretentious they steal German ideas. I'd never date one. I hope your kids don't hang out with them.
Gollum, the next time you are in the mood for something different after Friday night rice and beans at Murrillo's, turn left on the freeway and cruise East through Sacramento, take Highway 50 around Lake Tahoe down to Carson City. Drop a few coins at the original Nugget in Carson City and then cruise on out highway 50 East another 15 miles or so. Outside Carson City you will find a Pull A Part or similar lot. Every now and then neat Nissan products appear there and the price is right. If you are a gambling man, continue East of 50 another 3 miles or so. You are looking for Moundhouse. The first signs will be a bridge overpass for the new reconstituted V&T RR, the next sign posts are advertisements on the left for "bunny ranches" of different names... do not go there. Continue a mile or so and on your right, along side one or two other brothels, there are three old school, old time junk yards that have a wide assortment of mostly rust free cars. Along with the dismantled air conditioners, refrigerators, metal construction debris, and old domestic tin, I've seen a lot of Nissan VG engines in Pathfinders, Infinity, and 350Z. Over four years, I've seen two 350z with dual turbos (which I think are VGs) and a diminishing number of S30s. The last time I was there... 2 months ago... I saw only S31s and one N/A S32. As I said, it is a gamble, but it would be a nice weekend shopping trip.
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There would be a little bit, if you have the driveshaft and halfshafts disconnected, might be 1/8" or something like that. If you still have all the rest of that connected, then it's very very difficult to feel anything accurately as described here:
http://forums.hybrid...ded-diff-clunk/
If you really wanted to see what the backlash is, the correct way to do it is remove the diff, pull the cover, and measure with a dial indicator.
Thank you for directing me to your previous post. I searched, but didn't hit that one. The pinion flange rotates just a bit less or at 1/8" as you describe..
So, this weekend, I'll pull all assemblies for paint, take one last look inside the differential and reinstall, less the CV axles. As I have the MM stub axles and and the RT mount, I lack only your short axles. No $ at the moment, but all in good time.
Thanks,
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The bind that I'm trying to fix is a bind in the length of the CV axle. The CV axle is just too long to fit without some load on the diff when you use stock control arms and stock Z31T CV axles. Having figured out the bind and fixed it before actually assembling my own car I've never actually tried turning the wheel and feeling for resistance with the bind in place, but honestly I don't think you're all that likely to feel resistance from the bind by turning the wheel.
I would guess, and it is just a guess, that you have a rotor that is moving on the studs as you turn the axle. You could fix this by putting a couple lug nuts on to hold the rotors in place on the stub axle while you are turning them. This would explain both the clunk (rotor shifting) and the tough spot (pads dragging on the rotors).
If you have MM's Extreme kit you might also look at using a dial indicator to true the rotors before you run them. This has been discussed previously, but basically it involves using stainless shims between the rotor and hat to get it trued to less than .002" runout. This will ensure no brake shimmy, and it's not that hard to do.
I do think you would be well advised to buy my short shafts regardless of whether an out of true or loose rotor ends up being the cause of your issues. Based on my calculations there should be no way that you can run the welded adapters and the stock shafts without significant bind unless you have a control arm that is something like 3/4" longer than stock, and at that point it would JUST BARELY clear. I've got some shafts on order right now and they should be here in a few weeks. You can get the group buy price if you sign up before they arrive.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, a set of short axles is on my short list as soon as I determine whether or not life and my mechanic have given it to me in the shorts as regards to my rear end.
The rotors and calipers have been removed. I still have the clunk from the driver's side. The passenger side seems to be smoothing out, with resistance pretty close to constant as I rotate the stub axle. When I move underneath and rotate only the pinion left and right there is a slight clunk and the pinion flange has a slight free movement before it rotates the ring gear. Unlike the passenger side, when I rotate the assembly by turning the pinion flange it turns smoothly and quietly... no perceptible change in resistance and no clunk. In a properly set up R200, how much free play at the pinion flange could I expect to see... or feel?
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Ok, before I break down this differential I would appreciate some idea of what I should be looking for.
Here are the facts:
1. R200 3:36 with Z31 lsd & CV axles. The 12mm carrier is shimmed with stainless steel tubing to fit the 10mm ring gear bolts. An item I purchased from a member.
2. Modern Motorsports rear disk brakes using MM early welded companion flanges.
3. R200 disassembled, inspected, and reassembled using all new bearings. Back lash set and contact pattern well centered. R200 filled with gear oil, pinion rotated to spread lubrication and then installed in vehicle with differential side "stubs" installed. At this time all bearings and seals in the rear struts were replaced with Nissan replacement parts. Car sat for 4 years,
4. 18 months ago, Z31 Lsd installed along with the additional friction clutches purchased from member on this forum. Spacers eliminated.
5. Interior of differential clean, LSD very clean and nothing appeared out of place. LSD broken down and assembled using gear oil as lubricant. Assembly and disassembly performed by experienced mechanic showing me step by step the process. When reassembled, the differential rotated smoothly by hand.
6. Filled with differential oil and GM LSD oil supplement.
7. CV axles dissassembled. Cages on wheel side reversed as per MM instructions. All boots removed/replaced. Cage and balls cleaned and inspected. No apparent wear or galling. CV axles reassembled and installed in Z.
8. Installation of CV axles was tight on both sides, but doable by hand without the necessity of dropping the rear control arms.
9.. Z was parked in garage for last six months, being moved from time to time as work progressed on body. Moved by hand and appeared to roll smoothly.
10. Last night, I put the Z up on stands and began to remove struts/differential for new shock inserts. The rear suspension is at full droop.
11. I removed the wheels and rotated the stub axle by hand. Smooth rotation for about 90 degrees and then a bind for another 45 degrees or so and then smooth rotation for for almost a complete rotation at which time I feel a "bind". The axles rotate smoothly through the bind. What I call a "bind" is an increase in the torque I need to turn the axle. My judgment is that if it takes another 50% of effort to turn the axles through the "bind". I can turn the axles using my bare hand (one hand) spanning the lug nuts. My thought was that this is the bind I've been reading about and the cure would be shorter axles.
12 I moved to the passenger side and rotated that axle. It turns smoothly by hand, but at about 25 degrees of rotation I hear and feel a substantial "clunk". The "clunk" does not seem to be at the initiation of rotation. It occurs during rotation and at different places.
13. I do not have the drive shaft installed and, as this is an LSD, both axles and the pinion turn together. I can observe the pinion flange as I rotate either axle: it rotates smoothly, but when I hear and feel the "clunk" the pinion flange appears to slow down and then pick up rotation speed.
14. Now, when I rotate the passenger side axles it still "binds" but the difference of perceived torque is substantially less to pull it through the "bind".
15. In trying to isolate which of five assemblies (differential ,two CV axles, and two sets of hub bearings) might be the culprit, I observe the following anomalies:
a. There is no audible clunk or felt clunk when the assembly is rotated by turning the passenger side axle. The 'bind" is still there, buy no perceived difference in rotation of the pinion flange.b. There is both and audible clunk and distinct feel of a disconnect when rotating the driver's side axle by hand.As this assembly turns as a unit, I don't understand why I hear and feel this clunk when the assembly is rotated from the driver's side, but not from the passenger's side.At any rate, I don't wish to begin disassembly without having an idea of what I should be looking for. Does anyone have suggestions for a flow chart or procedure I might employ to isolate the offending part(s). Is this a common problem? In short,...Heeeeeeelp.
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The title says it all. Looking for JTR radiator mount. Need top, but will take the complete package. Shipping to Riverside county, California.
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I have read the thread and there is all kinds of info here. In reading there seems there may be a possible solution for me, going with 14" wheels, but I am having trouble pulling it together.
Here's the deal. I have 1970 240 and I have 2 sets of 14" wheels: #1 14x7 iron crosses, #2 14x7 Enkei. I am feeling vintage, so I HAVE to stick with these wheels, man! I am a DD and I will TrackDaze 6 weekends this year, as well as ZCON. I need to get the best performance out of my brakes, front and rear, for this use.
- What are my options for front disk brakes?
- Vented/slotted/cross-drilled rotors?
- Caliper upgrades?
[*]What are my options for going disk on the rear brakes?
If it doesn't come together with rear disk brakes and a front disk upgrade, it looks like I will have to go with better pads/shoes, perhaps perforance rotors/drums, and call it a day.
Thanks.
Pretty much my circumstances, too. '70 Z and I wish to run old school 14 inch mini mag copies and another set of kidney cut alloys.
I have the MM rear disk brake kit using the 240sx calipers. They just barely clear a set of 280zxt stock alloys. They clear the kidney cut alloys, and will clear the minimags ONLY after grinding portions of the caliper and running 1/4 inch spacers. The issue is back spacing and width of the wheel. 6inch will work, 7 inch wide requires spacers & light caliper grinding.
I have all the parts to convert the front to ventilated front disks with the Toy calipers. I understand this combination is a bit of overkill up front when combined with the MM rear disk brake conversion. After reading every possible thread on this site and others, I think I will keep the stock front datsun solid discs with the Toy calipers for solid rotors. The Toy calipers have more pad area then the datsun stockers. I am running a larger datsun MC which I believe to be 15/16ths in diameter. The proportioning valve, which is located in the back, is gutted and a new proportioning valve mounted up front.
The ventilated Toy caliper/rotor swap is quite heavy and I understand that many folks have had difficulty in balancing the braking forces between the Toy ventilated rotors/calipers up front and MM disk conversion in the back. I hope to avoid a balance problem by sticking with the stock datsun front rotors with the 99.99% bolt on Toy solid rotor calipers.
This car will be a DD and will, most likely, never be on a track other than, perhaps, 1/4 mile drags.
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- What are my options for front disk brakes?
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Low numbers work for restoration projects or, possibly, as an investment. If you are looking at an "investment" then look for ORIGINAL: all matching numbers... no 280 blocks; no rust, original paint or at least original paint respray. Original wheels and hubcaps , original radio, and nothing bent, drilled, or exchanged. No hot rod parts and no accidents. Look for all correct paperwork: sales sheet, owner's manual, and such. In my opinion, if any of this is absent or, like rust, present, then this is not an investment. Price it as you would any Series II or 280z. If you are willing to pay a premium for trunk vents and a lighter car go for it.
If it is clean, pretty rust free, and complete; then, you may have a good candidate for a "restoration" or "resto-mod".
In the absence of the first paragraph, I would buy or not buy based almost entirely upon lack of rust and how complete the car appears to be.
I bought a "medium low" Series I for small change. It was rusty in all the same places, had a running 280Z with 5 speed, and every do dad sold by Whitneys on the interior. An automatic, blue interior middle '70. It will be worth far less than a modified Series II or 280z simply because the newer cars are.....how do I say this.."better" for most people.
On the other hand, if this were anywhere within 100 miles of my home, I'd stick a couple or three bills in my pocket and drive over to take a look.
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I hate to be the ignorant one here, but why should we be interested in putting one in a S30? (other than to say you did it, which is perfectly fine) I'm really no Nissan fanboy, though I'm sure I look like one to many, but the VQ swap can't possible be that much more money, in fact I'd imagine it'd be less, and I see no way in which the honda motor trumps the nissan. People routinely make 500+whp on pump gas in 350Z's (even here in CA with our crappy 91). They're just as light. Just as good/tunable of an ECU. Oh, and it's got better tranny options for us RWD guys
Easy answer, he believes them to be cheap, reliable, different , and very very light. A modern up to date 60degree vs with a lot of aftermarket support. Although this one is going into a Ford Falcon, It does appear to be very adaptable to an S30. Oh, did I mention that they are very cheap and light, light, light.
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Remember that the OEM Datsun inserts were not inserts per se. They were double tube shocks that used the strut tube itself as the outer tube of the shock. 299cc is 10 ounces of fluid. If you pour that much into the strut tube and then slide in a full shock you'll make a giant mess. Spray a little rust penetrant on the inside of the strut tube and then grease the shock body. That will prevent any future corrosion and let the shock come out easily a few years from now. And ignore the posts that follow this that discuss the need for oil to allow heat transfer. If you're working the shocks hard enough to fade the modern synthetic shock oils then you're got other issues.
Thanks, John,
I didn't know that Datsun originals were double tube. I just got back from assembling the strut by adding about 3 tablespoons of 30wt detergent oil. used the insert as a dipstick to gauge the oil level. My question, now, is do I leave well enough alone or disassemble, clean up, grease up, and re-assemble.
I'm inclined to leave it alone.
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First, I would plan what I really wanted in terms of performance and then I'd go for that WITHOUT any detours and frolics. The key to finishing a Project is not money or time: it is FOCUS and some money. Focus on what you are doing, do something every week.
Second, I would limit my time on this forum to once a week and review paragraph "First" three times before I varied from the original plan. [Right now, I've purchased and installed without ever cranking them three CSB Gen I, Gen II, and now GenIII.]
Third, Do not fall victim to the "While I'm here I might as well .................................................... ."
Fourth, don't stress over money. Your excavating a money pit and you are in control. If wife or kids need shoes, decide if the Project or the shoes are most important. As far as I can tell, being raised poor by loving parents has never hurt the kids. If they go barefoot for a few months, so be it. Good for Character and gives them good material to tell their grandkids how tough life was in '20s.
Now, to answer the questioned posed. As soon as the Z is sorted out and running trouble free for 6 months, I'll sell the MazdaSpeed Mx5 and set aside around $5K. The next Project will be a NB Mazda Miata, with a cold stone stock Ls2 with A/T, Ford 8.* IRS and large brakes all around. I start with a clean, straight, Mx5 with good paint and interior and go for the power. Use previously engineered kits. Put that in my garage and retire to the old man's autoX circuit. No intention of winning anything, just a good noisy time.
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My stock strut tubes had a small amount of oil that "submerged" the shock insert. The Datsun Service Manual states that when replacing the shock insert, one should also add 299cc of "damping"oil to fill up the space between the insert and the strut tube. I thought this was to transfer heat from the insert to the outer strut tube.
However, I have my new shock inserts ready for installation and the instructions that come with the new inserts does not even mention adding oil.
What is the "best", oops, sorry, "preferred" process: put them in dry and move on or measure that 299cc of shock oil and pour it in to fill up the void between insert and strut tube.
If oil is the way to go, then: 1. what oil do you recommend and 2. how do you measure 299cc of oil without a graduated decanter?
I found one thread that mentioned "submerged" shock inserts, but did not really address the question of whether it is necessary.
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I know this is a moribund thread, but I would like to think someone on this forum wouldn't mind resurrection.
Here is a thread from LS1tech.com that compares the 6L80E with our more common 4L60E transmissions. It does not look to be all that much larger, wider, or taller that the 4L60E.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?
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I tend to like the NEW New Beetle - especially the turbo model. Nice improvement over the previous model. And, yes. even though chicks may be seen driving them, it's a more masculine looking car. No more flower vase on the NEW New one.
Dennis
Actually, I liked the idea of the flower vase on a Turbo New Beetle with 6 speed. Shows a little sensitivity, perhaps a little Green, as one slams through all 6 gears on the way to something a bit over 135 mph. Other than the fact that every plastic piece, particularly the review mirror remote, would break, deform, or fall off the car, I really enjoyed the 85000 I put on a New Beetle...... actually used that vase to hold a rose every other day or so. Better smell than that "new car" smell most car washes give you.G
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:DI started with TG1 from Cascade Audio, which is advertised as R-12. I expect to add more product such as DynoMat or some other material over the TG1 for sound and vibration suppression. Probably add a few pounds to the Z. The issue is not unique to Z's. Google some of the hot rod and low rider forums.
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:mellow:Here's yet another possible furren cur heart transplant for a Z. My brother, the Ford cracker, is poised on the brink of apostasy. He appears ready and willing to fall from grace and embrace one of these. He is in love with his wife, her soccer team moving Honda van, and his "south forty" of early Falcons. This outfit apparently makes gender bending bellhousings that mate the Honda V6 to GM automatic transmissions for a N/S orientation. ... He apparently is willing to sleep with GM if that is what it takes to rotate the Honda v6. Any OooooooDa fans out there?
Scroll down past all the off road action stuff, and check out the N/S front engined Honda in the vehicle and on a stand. This looks to be highly swapable into a Z.
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I didn't know that Hyundai built their own engines and that two of them look like very good swap material. In my neck of the woods, Hyundai Genesis (Sedans) are not uncommon. Consumer Reports seems to like them and reported above average for reliability. Take a look.
GW
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My '71 series 1 shoulder straps were anchored to the perimeter rail forming the roof. The other end, after passing over your left shoulder was attached to the stock lap belt by a "post" that was inserted into a hole in the metal "tongue" that is inserted into the clasp of the seat belt. If you have assembled heavy duty metal shelving, you have used the same attachment system. Take another closer look at the seat belt tongue. You should see a perforation shaped a little like an "i" with the dot being of a greater diameter. The stud is inserted into the top of the 'I" and locks in place when it is slid up.
Here is where a picture is worth 10,000 words. Sorry, I don't have one. It was simple, but not all that convenient.
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Any one have JTR radiator mounting brackets. I need only the top, but will purchase both top and bottom if available.
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I wouldn't mind at all. Hell, I'll help install the shocks right there in my driveway if that were the case!
:angry:Da***mn, I just hit the "send" button to buy the same shock inserts from an on line provider.
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I need suggestions as to what a reasonable economical strut insert should cost: also, what brand?
Ten years ago, I installed a set of Gabriel gas shocks on all four corners. Installed and forgotten. Yesterday, I dismantled a front strut to repaint and discovered that the insert could be compressed with the palm of one hand. After four cycles, the strut regained some resistance, but it is still less than 35#. Measured on my bathroom scale. I'm looking for other strut inserts, but my budget is no more than $200 for all four corners.
Does anyone have any brand recommendations. This is not a track car, it is a Gen III swap. Most of my driving is at slightly above speed limit... 70-80mph out the 10 to AZ or up the 395 to Reno NV. I'm looking for more of a "GT" ride again not a Track Car.
This Z is not lowered and runs stock springs. My other ride is a MazdaSpeed MX5 (Miata) and I'm hoping for a much "softer" ride than that one. My tires today will be 205 x 14 and might go to 205 x 15. I'll keep the tall sidewall and don't expect to be running anything lower than 60.
All suggestions welcome.
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Actually, I liked the idea of the flower vase on a Turbo New Beetle with 6 speed. Shows a little sensitivity, perhaps a little Green, as one slams through all 6 gears on the way to something a bit over 135 mph. Other than the fact that every plastic piece, particularly the review mirror remote, would break, deform, or fall off the car, I really enjoyed the 85000 I put on a New Beetle...... actually used that vase to hold a rose every other day or so. Better smell than that "new car" smell most car washes give you.
280z dash into 240z
in Interior
Posted
I've seen it done. My recollection is that only a few of the mounting tabs actually mate up. The swap I saw used only two or three of the mounting tabs. IIRC the 280 is slightly wider, but not enough to prevent it from "going in". The other comments re console are valid. The 280 gauges were kept.
It struck me as a lot of work for little payback, as a quality cap is presentable and pretty cheap.
You might be able to flog a clean 280 dash on Ebay or here for more than enough to purchase a cap. The swap was a 280 into an early 1971 or 72 240z.
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