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GLENN280ZX

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Posts posted by GLENN280ZX

    Oil pump not pumping oil?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Just because the dist., is spinning does not meen that the oil pump is...I know I killed a crank and rod on a fresh eng. by not having the oil pump drive shaft properly in the oil pump. There is enough clearence in the dist., drive shaft and oil pump for this to happen. And just to inject, you will have oil pressure even if the head gasket was installed wrong side up. I have a long flat blade screw diver minus the handle that I use to prime my engines with, by chucking it in a drill. You do this by bolting up the O.P. with out the drive shaft. Makes a mess when you do install the shaft..but cheap ins. And after what you have done I think would be a step that I would do. Be sure to check your flats when you go to install every thing or your timing will give you fits when you do get oil pres., and you can't get the timing set properly. Hope this helps.

    280zx 5 lug conversion

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    On the front buy the 0-offset hubs from Ross, he has to machine a small amount from the seal area and this gives you the proper clearence that you need.Then you must buy a set of cobra rotors, these are 13" and this is what Ross's hubs are machined for.The last kicker for the front is you decide what calipers you are going to use and make brackets,, you may be able to use AZ for this. Give Steve a call, he is real good about talking to ya about his products and their apps. At the rear you need 84-87 turbo axles and the out-side bearing, because the 300 axle has more meat in this area than the 280.and make sure that get and use the bearing spacer. This is the 1/4" spacer that is found at the inside bearing. The second item is the c-v axle companion flange, there are 3 different ones. The one you want is 1/4" shorter than the other 2 and make sure that you get the 300's axle nuts.For the half shafts you are going to use the the 280zx turbos, or the 82-83 c-v type, they are the same and when the proper companion flange is used this will be a total bolt in except for the caliper brackets. I don't know the year of the 300,for the flange because when I went to the Z BARN to gather parts for this,Roger turned me loose in the yard and all these rear end ass. were all on the ground. I have opp. to use the cobra rotors in the back also, so again you have to make caliper brackets here to, don't know of any one who has done this but AZ makes a 4-lug kit for the rear, but I don't think the caliper brackets will work. I used wilwood calipers front and rear and bought a hyd. park brake from AZ. and still used the stock porp. valve. Beware if you already have the wheels you plan on using,not that the rear spacing changes, but because the rotor is so shallow, the caliper may hit the inside of the wheel, not the outer rim but the stud area.I bought BOYD C. wheels, and had to fill out a work order in detail about what I had. I basically ordered a wheel for a late model cobra,I don't use fender flairs and the wheels are just inside the fender lips. This operation took me about 3 weekends to do.And with the exception of making the caliper brackets, it was really straight forward.Hope this helps.Oh my car is an '80 model

    280zx 5 lug conversion

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I have Ross's 0-offset hubs on the front of my car, they are direct bolt on. I am using Power slot 13" rotors and wilwood cals. In the back I'm using 300 stub axles and bearings and cv adpt. flanges, 280zx cv shafts, Power slot 13" rotors and wilwoods also. If you go past 11.5" rotors you must use 16" wheels or bigger to clear calipers. Hope this helps. You can do a little junk-yard'n and use a lot of stock parts to achieve the five lug.

    Need Help In Ont. Canada!!!

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    I need someone in ONT., to help me get a 280zx na or turbo hood to 'SHOW CAR BODY PARTS' there. The hood does not net to be show quality or need scoops.They seem to have lost their mold and can make one from a stock steel hood.I will glady pay for the hoo, shipping(from ONT address) to show cars and for the asisstance in helping me. Thanks, Glenn

    Autometer Speedometer

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Hey, I just did the autometer swap today. I took my short cable to the locale speedo-repair shop told them I needed a 5/8 hook-up. And in 15min. it was ready to go for $5.00. He cut the orignal collar about 1/2" and swedged the new on. Simple and I thought kinda trick.

    280zx 5 lug drilling template?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Hey David,what year zx are you working on? The above tech. works, but you should really use the drill press to drill,when you go to tap for studs the tap will follow a bad hole the same as a straight hole, this is how I done my first set of 280zx axles.Moser Engineering will drill, tap, and sell you 1/2" studs for $90.00.If you are working on a 82-83, than you can use the 300 rear set-up and that is 99% bolt in. not near as much work as my earlier thread on my '80.

    280ZX 5 lug swap - front Z31 calipers?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Hey there David, finished mine about two weeks ago.Let's start with the front:I took the 280zx hub milled the rotor mounting bolt bosses down to 0, but didn't touch the rear snout of the bub since that dia. is the same for the 300 vented 5-lug rotor. I heated the 300 rotor up on a 100watt light buld making the center exspnd and installed the rotor after cooling I drilled and tapped the rotor mounting bolt holes and used the stock bolts 'cause of the shoulder that they have, and this would help hold the rotor steady also. Then I transfered the 5-4.5 lug pattern, tapped 1/2-20 and installed moroso studs.the 280zx-300zx calipers are the same as far as piston dia. goes, but I did use the 300's because I used the 300 caliper brket.I found that I was able to use 1 of the 280zx brkt. mnt. holes at the strut and simply drilled and tapped a new hole at the top bolt, and use the 300 pads.I have seince found out tht the 240-280zx have the sme offset and I'm trying to order a set of alim. hubs. The rear was just as head scathing:I redilled the 300 axles because the the org. holes are 12mm. to big to safly tap 1/2",I found that some 300's have a 1/4" spacer on the flange end of the axle, you need these to be able to install the axle,seems to be a 1/4" diff. between the 300 and 280zx and these take care of that(can't get the copan. flange down tight with-out them).I used 87-turbo vented rear rotor. Had to fab a cal mounting brket to bolt to the controll arm.This brkt. could be welded like the factory,but I change so much so often I chose to drill and tap the dust sheild bolt holes to 7/16" and used #8 hardware to attach them. and used the 300 rear cals.Now I just need to fab up the brkt. for the e-brake. I will get pics. soon waiting on a good deal on a dig. camera.

    280zx header

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    When you look at the NS picture you will see the #4 tube drops sraight down, that tube will not allow the power rack to work 'cause it hits the input shaft.I tried to install the header with the power and non-power racks installed, it will not install. You can get bolted to the head and it will clear all 3 x-members(power,non-power racks and box) but the racks will not install afterwards. The box will install but the pitman arm about half way thru the turn to the left it hits THE TUBE. Looked at the tubes for 5 days and it does not look as if you changed the problem tube it still wouldn't be enough 'cause the steering link for the 'racks' would hit 3 of the other tubes, but it could work with the box. I taled to the tech guy a 2nd time after all this and he still say that it will work....NOT. This header appears to be designed for the early cars with front steer, or having the racks mounted in the front of the x-members.I called Sthal, and the tech guy there said there 280zx header will work with nonpower box only.Then I called Pacesetter, and they said their haeder will work with all 4 steering set-ups, but no square ports for the 79-83. So they are going to send me pics. of the early car and late car headers side by side, if the tubes are the same, I'm gonna get the header for the early car 'cause of the 'square' ports (I have a p90head). And pacesetter says that the headers have 1 5/8" tubes and 2.5 collectors, should work pretty good.I also called hussler and a couple other custom header places and they wanted $1200-1500 to build a header!!!!! but to answer your ? it will not work, If it would make you feel better you can call Courtsey Nissan and ask for Matt, He worked with me for about 3 weeks to get this header to work and he can tell ya what I just did here, 'cause I told him all this and sent back 2 headers the 1.75 and 1.65 both do not work in the 280zx.Keep p with me here and I will let you know which way I go, seems like the pacesetter will be it.I know that all this seems to be a lot of babble but I did try fir the better of all of Z-kind!!!

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