stav2201
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Posts posted by stav2201
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I have a set of tokico reds.
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I'm in the market for a new set of rims. the klutch sl1's are what I am looking at, but before I buy them I was curious if anyone has had any fitment issues with them regarding a specific build.
here is what I am running:
-ground control cool overs
-wilwood complete brake conversion
here is what I want to install:
-16x9 klutch sl1 with 15+ offset
I have a set of enkei 92's at the moment and the clearance is very small between my calipers and rim, maybe a few mm. have any of you had clearance issues with the face of the rim and wilwood calipers using their 15+ offset rims?
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I'm looking to get a set of 16x8 of these wheels. do they still sell them in 0 offset?
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this is a rough mockup of what I want to install. the top photo is a picture of my engine bay, the bottom is how I want it installed.
this is where I am a bit confused, the stock lines in my car are perfectly suitable for an install, the brass fittings on the willwood prop valve are just not 10m so I cannot use the lines.
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this proportioning valve is still causing issues since I don't want to make custom lines, (dont have the tools). I've decided to take a different approach.
instead I plan on buying two 10m male to m10 female invertes flare adapters so I can use my stock brake lines and install it in the engine bay on the firewall. anyone have any experience with this approach and know if it is a viable solution
these are the adapters I will be buying to screw into my willwood proportioning valve
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you need.
-r200 mustache bar, reverse it
-r180 driveshaft
-r180 companion flange (r200 will not fit)
-after market stub axles
-r180 diff cover
-reverse your diff mount
no other modifications are needed
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I'm looking for an Arizona z car sump oil pan and a fidanza flywheel, shoot me a message if you got one!
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any updates on how it is holding up?
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After all the research i have done about sound deadening and user reviews on all the "Off brand" types, dynamat is the most expensive for a reason.
The biggest issue with all the other brands seems to be....
1) The smell
2) Comes off on hot days
3) The smell again... Even worse on very hot days
4) Lack of quality
Most reviews seem to say to some effect, "Should of just spent the extra money on dynamat to begin with and save myself time and the hassle".
I have dynamat in my car, made a very noticeable difference as soon as a drove it. Remember, you do not have to cover every square inch of your car in it, it just reduces the resonance the metal makes by reducing vibrations.
One box was more than enough to cover my floor pans, some of my door, and trunk space (With a couple extra sheets left over)
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Anyone ever seen some seats like this before, or know if they are still made?
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I am finishing up with my willwood install from arizona z car and i have hit a bit of a wall with installing the proportioning valve. I want to make lines in order to have it run into my cabin (right next to my right leg). Although arizona z car supplies a good "how to" install, i feel it is lacking a bit of information. I need to know if i have to remove the distribution block from my 1975 280z, connect the front lines together, then install the willwood proportioning valve between the lines of the back brakes? Silvermine auto suggests removing the distribution block (which is bolted to the firewall) while arizona z car said to place the proportioning valve after the distribution block.
Any help would be much appreciated!
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I'm setting up my 1975, 280z for a mild track build and canyon carver.
at this point I have replaced all of my bushings, balljoints, front/rear wheel bearings, 1inch bump steer spacers, ground control coilovers (no camber plates), spring rates as follows, 200 front with kyb struts, 225 rear with hp struts, rear 7/8 sway bar, rear strut bar, zx transmission, 3.9 clutch lsd, and 16x7 enkei 92s. I'm looking for a front sway bar and was looking at the msa 1inch bar. any suggestions on a proper sized sway bar I should be using or how tight I should bolt down the end link bushings?
the car will not be lowered anything more that 1 3/4 inch.
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if anyone is thinking of purchasing any parts from this craigslist ad in the bay area keep in mind that this man has zero integrity when it comes to price. I went to go buy the sway bars from him for 125 which we agreed upon. (he has no hardware or bushings for them). when I went this morning he tried to gouge me for 180$ when I got there. just make sure you get the price down way before you head out to deal with him.
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I have one, it's for a 240z, no vents front valance.
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still looking if anyone has a set.
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Im located in california and i need to ship the Front end of a 1975 datsun 280z to florida, It will be stripped and cut behind the firewall. Ive been trying to figure out the shipping situation and many companies are quoting me at extremely high rates. Anyone have any recommendations on a good company or solution to getting the shipping cost down? Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
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I'm looking for a set of 240z rods, I do not need the piston heads, please call or text me at 925 389 6934, my name is alex.
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I'm looking for a set of tokico lowering springs for my 1975 280z. Please send me an email or message through here with any information, my name is Alex and My email is alexstav2210@live.com
bumping thread, still looking for some springs.
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After a long haul on the Freeway, I always pop the hood on all of my Cars ( Audi, Camaro, Datsun 280Z ) when I refuel. Lets all the stinkin' hot air out of the engine bay. After I refuel, I check the oil level, PS level etc etc, Then I'm on my way. Haven't had any Vapor Lock issues with any car since I adopted this procedure.
Nice to give the engine a quick look over to make sure nothing is amiss.
Yes, i adopt this method now, venting the air out of your engine bay reduces the duration of vapor lock quite dramatically.
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I have a set, they need to be cleaned though, I also have the stock intake runner cleaned thourally and sand blasted.
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I'm looking for a set of tokico lowering springs for my 1975 280z. Please send me an email or message through here with any information, my name is Alex and My email is alexstav2210@live.com
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It's not hard at all, you might have a hard time removing bolts, I replace all my header bolts with studs. I prefer them although I hear regular bolts are better.
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I just recently took a 900 mile trip to southern California, bay area to san Diego. I wanted to share my car and engine specs in accordance to my mpgs from my trip.
In a distance of roughly 900 miles I maintained about 22mpg average at an average speed of 75 miles per hour.
Engine and car specs.
-Engine timing set to 8 degrees tdc
-4 speed transmission
-enkei 92 rims (16x7) with correct tire size for stock setup
-all smog equipment removed except for charcoal canister
-tire pressure at 35 psi,tire tread at 80%
-r180 differential with a 3.54 gear ratio, New fluid as well
-10/40 full synthetic with a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer, fresh oil change
-using a 280zx turbo fly wheel and clutch combination.
-minimal weight loss on car, no ac or spare tire.
-rebuilt l28 engine with an N42 head and stock cam (all cam lash within correct stock spec), stock exhaust manifold with a custom exhaust system which includes a resonator and magna flow muffler.
-champion 3 core aluminum radiator, maintained perfect temp entire trip.
-cleaned and polished throttle body
-completely new set of after market injectors with new enjector plugs.
-New spark plugs, plug wires, rotor and rotor cap.
-repacked wheel bearings
-kyb struts with coilover suspension, set 2 inches lower than stock height.
-brand new engine mounts, diff mount, transmission mount, and every single bushing replaced, even the spindle pin bushings.
Overall an excellent trip, there wasn't a massive mpg loss once I hit the grapevine suprisngly, I only lost about 1 mpg with such a huge incline from the mountain which I believe is about 12 miles full distance. Most of the trip is basically flat land on highway 5, I'm pretty sure I could of gotten 23 or 24 mph if people weren't so bad at driving and weren't constantly causing me to break my momentum. I also experienced issues with heat soak every time I stopped to refuel since I have a non egr intake manifold with no heat shield.
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I have a 1975 280z with the coilover suspension conversion (ground control brand). I do not have a camber kit installed nor any other after market suspension components other than bushings. My car is sitting about 6'3/4 above the ground in the rear from the frame rails. Does anyone have any experience with suspension geometry and switching to the 240z strut insulators? By switching to the 240z strut insulators I would allow more travel for my shocks and be able to raise my springs slightly improving ride quality, correct me if I am wrong... Does anyone have any first hand experience with this swap and would it be beneficial for for my car? I use my car as a daily driver but do drive it fast and love to hit the corners.
Port Matching N42 Head for Triple Webers
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I agree with Tony D on this, I would not grind out those fi notches. if I recall correctly, on an L28 you can use dcoe40s, but optimal power is with 45's or 48's. so a bit pointless to grind them down. Before you do any work on your head, make sure you have upgraded to some after market headers. no point increasing airflow coming in if you can't get it out properly.