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Dan B

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About Dan B

  • Birthday 05/22/1991

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    Palo Alto, CA

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    danberman0112

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  1. Do you think there is room for the stock filter in there too?
  2. Haha yes, I've learned that the hard way. Before i knew what i was getting into $200 for a 280z just seemed too good to pass up... I did tell him it was a 1995.. many.. many times. I'm a little skeptical because he kept trying to use a OBDII scan adapter, and then told me I had a problem with the diagnostic port. I guess I need to hook up power to the port, although I've been running tunercat on it no problem with just data and ground. Something is going on with my engine. It smells real strong and the emissions were off the charts, although the a/f ratio was fine. I think I may have burned out my cats trying to solve a misfiring problem I had earlier, but i'm still not sure if that'd be enough to make the smog as bad as it is. Also my EGR seems to only open for a moment when I accelerate from idle, and never when I'm cruising which is suspicious. Any ideas what could be causing that?
  3. Today I took my 77 280z with a LT1 to the ref station for the first time, and learned that I need to use a CARB approved air cleaner instead of the K&N cone I shoved onto the end of the intake elbow. Does anyone have any experience with CARB approved LT1 intakes? It looks likes K&N is the only company selling one, and I'm wondering if it would actually fit under the hood? Other than that my experience with the ref station was very positive. As people say, they are very knowledgeable and helpful, and will show you exactly what is causing an issue. If anyone else is working on a smog legal swap i HIGHLY RECOMMEND you check the EO numbers on the BAR website, to make sure they are compatible for your vehicle. It turns out the magnaflow CARB approved cats I got from Summit are only legal for trucks. If anyone wants to know more about the ref process feel free to PM me. A few other notes about my ref expirence: -They didn't appear to check the engine VIN #, or have a problem with me using a caprice motor with a manual tranny (I programmed the computer for a m/t) -They will connect your car to a snap-on scanner, so make sure you have your diagnostic port working and arn't throwing any codes -They don't have a lift to search around underneath your car, they just use a mirror to check the EO#'s on your carbs and a mirror -Make sure your exhaust is as close to stock as possible, especially up until the cats. They let me pass with a Y pipe and single exhaust only bc the Y was after the cats and right in front of the muffler (caprices originally had dual exhaust).
  4. Today I found that the reason my engine has been running like crap is not the optispark, but unfortunately is a much larger pain in the ass. Compression testing 5 of the cylinders I got 30, 0, 0, 0, and 140. Needless to say I didn't bother with the rest once I read zero's from both sides. I didn't have time to pull the heads (and probably won't for a few weeks since I went back to school today) but at minimum I'm sure I have a blown head gasket. I'm thinking at worst it could be burned valves and/or cracked heads? Also I noticed the coolant getting some brown foam in it (although the oil is clean and smells fine). My thoughts are that the engine probably got cooked (I had some issues with cooling earlier) although its possible its something the previous owner did (Like a dumbass I bought the engine as-is. Also he said he had done a 'light rebuild' so maybe he messed something up? although I don't think that he had pulled the heads) So where do you guys think I should go from here. If I pull the heads and they look alright and measure straight should I just put in new head gaskets? My debate is that I have seen some LT1's with comparable mileage going on craigslist for around 500, and replacing the head gaskets (assuming I don't have to get them resurfaced) would cost me at least 200 alone (I'm kinda on a tight budget...). If the engine got cooked do you think some other parts are going to be damaged as well, and cause more problems down the road? How likely do you think it is that the heads are warped? I hate to say it after all the time and money I've put into this engine, but it almost seems like it'd be more cost effective to replace it either with another LT1 (although that could have its own set of problems) or just a regualar sbc. What do you guys think?
  5. I just saw this thread for the first time. Has anyone made progress? I am currently looking into making some custom fiberglass body parts and it'd be great if I design them in CAD first. It looks as though some of you have already made pretty good progress, would any of you be willing to share? I'd be more than happy to send out any additions or custom parts I make.
  6. I got it figured out. Turns out when disabling VATS I had accidently turned on Data Fuel Enable, which cuts the injectors after a short time. Now i just need to figure out why its not running on all cylinders...
  7. Also with the MAP disconnected it seems to run best of all, however it still cuts out after a short while as though it has been turned off by the ECM
  8. So I just go my LT1 engine fully wired and plumbed into my 280z, and its having some strange problems. With the MAF sensor connected the engine will rev way up (and it seems smooth as though it is not misfiring) and then start backfiring and cut out as though it is starved for fuel. with the MAF disconnected and the ECM put into speed density mode it will run a little better, and will go for maybe 30 seconds and rev fairly nicely until it suddenly just shuts off as though the fuel and or spark has been turned off. It will throw a MAP voltage high code. To my knowledge all the other engine sensors are connected except the oil pressure sensor (has been replaced with the Datsun one). could that cause the ECM to shut it down? Any other ideas?
  9. Have any of you ordered from modern motorsports recently? Everything I've heard is that they have great customer service but I ordered a set of rear disc brake adapters 3 weeks ago and haven't even received a confirmation email, although the paypal transaction went through. I have sent them numerous emails with no response. anyone know what's going on?
  10. Are you in california? and are you talking about ref station passing or just a regular tailpipe test?
  11. Right on well send me a message whenever you get stuff off. Mainly I just need the evap canister and EGR solenoid. I have the air pump, EGR valve, and most of the plumbing
  12. Hey all you people that removed those smog parts, Do any of you still have them? I live in california and am looking for LT1 smog parts for my engine. I need a EGR solenoid, EVAP canister and solenoid, EVAP canister, and prob some other junk so if you have any of that lying around and want to sell it let me know. Thanks
  13. If you have a tig machine, go over the weld many times without adding any filler rod. When you do this you will see some black stuff come out. This is contamination, that causes the weld to crack. After each pass clean this off, and when it stops coming out you should be good to weld it
  14. Alright hopefully this isn't a topic that has already been extensively covered, but if it is mybad, I am working on putting a 1995 LT1 and T56 into a 1977 280z in CALIFORNIA. I have done lots of research on the smog laws and it sounds like all parts must be CARB approved. Basically, what options for exhaust does this leave. The JTR book suggests that the newer exhaust manifolds for SBC engines should work, but I am not sure if those are compatible with the LT1, because when I have searched for LT1 manifolds they look quite different. Would the LT1 manifolds work? if not are their any headers that work that are smog legal? So far I havn't been able to find any 50 state legal block huggers, and my understanding is even if I welded in a bung hole for an O2 sensor the headers still wouldnt be legal bc they are not originally CARB approved. Anyway, thats my dilemma, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  15. What did you end up doing? I have the same question
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