scaotty
-
Posts
34 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by scaotty
-
-
Found one! Thank you though!
-
Just like the topic states, im in need of a straight 240z grill. I dont care if it has surface rust. I intend on painting it anyways, but would like to start off with a straight grill. Let me know prices! Thanks
-
Thanks a lot everyone! Sounds like I would be biting off more than I can chew. Plus for what Im building this car for, it would make no sense. Thanks again everybody,
-
I have a 75 280z that im swapping a 350 SBC into. At the moment Im rolling with the factory rear end, with future plans of swapping into a Gen I 300zx LSD. But Ive been offered a Ford 9inch rear end for free, and im curious how crazy of a job it is getting it into a 280z. I see from searching on here that it can be done, but I dont want to tackle something I can handle. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
-
That does look great! Thats about the color I'm going with. Viper red is what I've chosen. And I agree, it is a ton of work. I decided to weld/shave almost every seam, spot weld, and factory imperfection. Cant wait till its done
-
I picked up a Borg Warner T5 for literally next to nothing. The guy said it was out of a 94 V6 Camaro and that it was non world class. I found the id tag on it (1352-245), typed it into www.5speeds.com/t5/ and it tells me I have a GM 1994 Camaro/Firebird V6 World Class. Right after i bought the thing I re-read the JTR manual to see if this tranny would work with my project (75 280z / Gen I 350 1 Piece rear main seal). It explained that one of the differences between the V6 and the V8 T5's are the splines on the input shaft. V8 having 26, and V6 having 14(i believe). The spline count on my input shaft is 26...The other thing I've noticed is that in that JTR manual it states that the newest Camaro T5 that will work is a 92. Mine of course is a 94. Bottom line is, I'm wondering if anyone out there knows whether this tranny will work with my motor or not. Thanks for reading.
-
Assembly underway! Finally...
-
Assembly underway! Finally...
-
Typical SBC install.
How do you like that intake? Ive been looking at those and the double ones.
-
Thanks for the reply John. I got the HZ3099's but I have a feeling the same applies. Another thing I noticed is that the nut that threads onto the top of the Tokico only wants to thread down until the nut is about flush with the top of the threads. Do i need to stack washers or something to make up that space between the top of the insulator and the nut? Thanks again.
-
I've just about completed the strut sectioning/coilover conversion in my 75 280z. I just drilled out the D shaped hole in the front insulators so that the top of the Toyota MR2 strut will fit through the hole. I drilled the hole big enough to clear the first little ledge after the threads, but it seems to be resting on the second ledge (one with the arrow pointing to it) which makes it so the bearing isnt sitting all the way up inside the insulator. This seems like a problem. My first thought was to make a spacer for under the bearing so that the bearing would be placed in the correct position. Thought I would check on here first to see if anyone else has a better idea. Thanks for your time guys
-
Yes I have a complete 240z front end(valance, signals, grill, bumper) on my 75 280z. Its a simple swap.
-
Awesome pics guys! Lots of inspiration! Still waiting on the machine shop to get the balancing done. Looking forward to posting my own pics once assembly starts. Thanks again guys. Keep em coming!
-
I have a 75 280z that Im going to be lowering. I just ordered the Tokico HZ3099's for the front end, and Im about to order the GC Coilovers. Last Christmas my wife bought me the KYB gas struts off of MSA for the front end, and my question is, can I go ahead and use those on the rear instead of having to buy the Tokico HZ3012's? I know everyone prefers the Tokico brand over KYB, but Im not concerned about handling, etc. This car will never see any type of track, just want the car low. Thanks guys.
Scotty
-
This is a perfect explanation, and clears up some major questions I've had for quite sometime. I've also read the post titled "Step By Step Coilover Conversion" by theHelix112 which is much, much more complicated. But in my case, Im not ever going to race my Z so I'm not worried about perfect handling. My only goal is to be able to lower it to exactly where I want it. I already have KYB gas struts from MSA,and I'm going to be purchasing Ground Control coilovers. Is this procedure what I need? It sounds like it but I want to make sure.
Scotty
-
What wheel/tire size combination are you running?
-
I'm in the process of building my SBC and would love some inspiration. Please feel free to post any pics you have of your motor either in the car or on the stand. I would start this thread with my own pics, but at the moment, my aluminum 202 heads are in my closet along with my harmonic dampener, my pulley kit is in a box in my garage and my block, crank, pistons, etc are in the machine shop while i await the arrival of a flywheel, so I can get it all balanced. Very excited about the assembly process though. Please post pics! Thanks.
-
If anyone had to guess, what would you say the offset is on those wheels?
-
From what Ive read, the all smooth (non rubber end) bumpers are a European type. I was lucky enough to find a front one like that. The rear one on the other hand, i stripped the rubber parts off. Then when they go to the chrome shop, the holes where the rubber attaches to the bumper will be filled. I agree it does look A LOT better.
-
Fab it up! Thats what i did.
-
So i pulled the ECU off the kick panel and noticed there are other plugs that run to within the dash(didnt trace for very long), along with the efi harness that runs through the firewall. You think im safe yanking it, even though other components plug into it?
-
First and foremost, ive done a lot of searching for the answer to this question, on this site, and others, but have come up with no answer. It may be simple to some of you, but please keep in mind im still a "newbie". I have a 75 280z. I have removed the factory engine/tranny to sell. Im building a small block 350, that will be carbureted. My question is, does the factory ECU go with factory engine/tranny? Im assuming it does for the EFI, but i want to make sure that it doesnt control other things in the car that i will need it for. Thank you.
Scotty
-
Im in the process of doing this swap as well on my 75 280z. As far as the surrounds go, im going to tack weld threaded studs on the back side, and nut them on the inside of the car. The outside studs will have to go through the white plastic that surrounds the lens, and the inside studs will go through the metal of the car. Havent done it yet, but it should work.
-
Looking for 240z tail lights that are in near perfect shape. Im specifically looking for the Euro style tail lights with the amber turn signal section, but the U.S. style with the red turn signal section will suffice.
FiTech EFI
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
This whole time of building my SBZ (75 280z w/ SBC 350), Ive planned on running the Holley Street Avenger 670CFM carburetor. But I had a friend talk me into thinking about an EFI system, specifically the FiTech GO EFI 4. Ive been doing quite a bit of research, and it looks like a great product with a lot of benefits. My question is, has anyone on here used it, or anything like it, and are there any major complications I need to be aware of before I bite the bullet. Any info would be much appreciated. Thank you.