Jump to content
HybridZ

rb26zed

Members
  • Posts

    59
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by rb26zed

  1. Brisbane is like...the sticks, eh?

    Ha ha... Yeah sort of.

     

    "Shortly"

     

    Ahhh, you have great faith in Post Australia!

     

    Ha ha yaeh um I mean shortly in aus post time, maybe 3 weeks fingers crossed, Usually priority air mail advertised at 3-7 days to aus takes around 2 weeks.

  2. Yes he rang this morning (last night there) and all is sorted out. They are on the way now. Thanks for the help dragonfly. I was'nt concerned about them being late as I expect to wait for these type of specialty parts to be made sometimes, but when I got no reply to my email then went to the site and it was closed I got a shudder down my spine as you would understand. But it was just a coincidence that his site was down temporarily. I am still happy with the service and expect I will be just as happy with the parts when they arrive shortly.

  3. I ordered a set of stage 3 rear arms on the 10th of december and paid for them and priority shipping to Australia (3-7 days) I still hav'nt received them or had a reply about them. Thats about $1000us. Now the website seems to be suspended and I have no way of contacting him. Could someone please PM me another way to contact him preferrably email.

  4. I actually had a part very similar made early last year to suit the exact same parts except it is one piece machined to shape not welded. Mine is made to suit a bolt on coilover though like a s13 front, or as im using, a GTiR pulsar rear (probably called something else in US) I hadnt mentioned it yet as I havnt done any of the other bits like control arms, axles and diff cradle. Good to see someone else on the same wave as me. It looks good by the way.

  5. The site where the picture is from says it is a modified aftermarket lip. I have been to that site countless times, it has been an inspiration to me. What a beautiful zed. Sorry, he doesnt mention what type of lip it is that he used though, but I have done a small amount of research on it as I was considering the same lip myself, and it appears to be the common air dam with some of the middle cut out and re-fibreglassed. By common I mean the one you will see on most sites mentioned on hybridz.

  6. Just remember that this does not apply to all rb26 blocks. The later blocks are not drilled and plugged but do have the indentation showing where to drill!!!!

     

    This is correct, I have a late '32 rb26 and it is not drilled.

  7. I dont know which motor you are talking about but if it is a 26 I remember a thread that said you could tell by the engine number and it had the number that split the early R32 to the late R32/33 blocks. I cant think of any other reason you would need to know.

  8. I flew from Brisbane to Sydney, hired a hire car, drove one and a half hours and I had'nt even seen a picture of it yet, then I bought it on the spot and drove it home, a 12 hour drive. And I would (and probably will) do it again.:-D It was a '71 240.

  9. The Rb25det- R33 gearbox is different to both the rb20det- r32 and Z32 gearbox.

     

    The RB25DET/R33, Z32, R32GTR and R33 GTR Gearbox internals are identical. R34 5 speed box's will be the same aswell. The simillarities between these boxes are as a whole gearset as there may be some minor differences with ratios and synchros. Strength wise they are the same. R32/RB20DET are different they are the same as SR20 and CA18 boxes.

  10. In your pics, the gold anodised rods, are they aluminum? If they are, I can tell you from first hand experience that they will bend and then fail. Just a heads up... There's a tremendous amount of load being applied to both the control arm and the TC rod. The TC Rod will fail first though...

     

    And while you're at it, I'd consider opening up the strut tower opening more to get full adjustment of that camber plate, like this:

     

     

    Yes they are aluminium, I had a choice between them and steel ones but was assured by the race shop (they deal with stock car racing) that they would be strong enough. Would the steel ones be strong enough or would you recommend something else, chromoly has been suggested to me but it is rather expensive, do you know of a source for 5/8 threaded or threadable rod (I have L/H and R/H taps) that would be strong enough.

  11. That is just a test bolt up to get the car rolling to take to the cage shop. I plan to raise the inner Lca mount, use spacers where needed and that is not the steering rack or crossmember that will be used. Im still waiting for my custom rack and want to wait till I have all the parts before I focus on the geometry. The rack will not be in the position of the one pictured. I should also point out that the coilovers are set to near their lowest possible setting at the moment, for no reason, they will be set correctly later as will the camber, caster and toe.

     

    I have read quite a few of your ackerman and geometry threads jmortenson,tube80z and johnc and do plan to incorperate alot of your ideas into it before final fit. The main reasons for the swap were brakes, bolt in coilovers and 5 stud.

  12. is it possible to use the techtoy tuning rear strut mounts for the front instead, and forego the pillow ball mounts of a s13 coilover set and use that as a camber adjustment guide instead? or should one drill a large hole and weld up the exisiting ones, and then drill out new bolt holes just as they appear on the s13 strut tower,.... and then use the coilover's triangular shape pillow ball mounts like you would on an s13 as well?

     

    I found it quite easy to drill the new holes and cut an opening for the camber adjusting bolts where the original holes were. I suppose it would be possible to do it the techtoy way though, but I have not seen them before so it would just depend if the coilover you choose will accept the techtoy top.

     

    i would LOVE pics of this if you could provide them =)

     

    Working on that now.

     

    those Lca's and caster rods you made... are they the same as aftermarket s13 ones that i can get from say... kazama or cusco or some other brand? cause i can get deals on those too.

     

    and they are fully adjustable and i think they could survice a nuclear blast, they're so huge. just wondering if yours are a whole world of a difference and if aftermarket ones would suffice.

     

    The aftermarket Lca's should be fine but since the s13 has a front mounted caster rod they are shorter than the zed and to gain caster are designed to go shorter you could use them but would need to replace the threaded tube section with a longer piece. I used Afco 5/8 unf threaded tube cut them to size and tapped them to suit and got some caster rods from an old 80's skyline had a machine shop cut them down and thread the ends.

     

    I also converted to 5 stud by using nissan maxima rear hubs with spacers, you could avoid spacers by using s14 front hubs but these are hard to get over here.

     

    My parts list for the caster rods was, $AU

    caster rods (almost any nissan ones will do) $0

    machine and thread caster rods $80 (pair)

    rod end 5/8 unf female $50 (pair)

    threaded tube $25

    taps to rethread tube R/H 5/8 unf $20

    L/H 5/8 unf $200

    locking nuts $2

    5/8 bolts for rod end $5

    3/4 bolts to hold clevis to original caster rod hole $5

    5/8 id alloy tube for spacers $5

    clevis cut from 2" square tube

     

    I had plenty of other use for the taps to justify their price

  13. I am doing the swap you are talking about right now. I used the whole hub, brake and arm assembly from an s13 (with r33 discs and callipers) with a racing logic coilover. I had to redrill the strut towers to accept the camber tops, swap the left to the right and vice versa because the s13 has a rear mounted steering rack and have made adjustable s13 lca's and adjustable s13 caster rods both are on car adjustable and use rod ends. It will bolt straight up to the original lca's and caster rods. So to answer your question it is possible and is not a very difficult swap.

  14. I love those wheels, loved them ever since I saw them on on3go's car.

    So you didnt like the MSA CF ZG flares, what didnt you like about them and how bad were they? I had seen that people were not happy with the showcars parts but hadnt heard anything about MSA. I was just about to order some CF ZG's CF hood and a urethane airdam from MSA until I read this. Is the CF hood good quality? I live in australia and was quoted $860 shipping so returning them would be out of the question.

×
×
  • Create New...