kellysautosport

I probably have too many of these stories. Most recent was cutting an opening in the trans tunnel on a 69 camaro for me to do a 4spd swap the angle grinder jump and went through my thumb from tip to nail and bled like hell for days. then a could days ago knocking cam bearing into a sbc i got a 1/16in piece of aluminum stuck in my finger that required me to use my razor knife to cut myself open to get it out. then there was the time i was knocking pistons out of a rusted to crap 351c and the lights went out and on that swing i missed the bar and hit my hand at full swinging force. then skip a few hundred wounds and go to the oldest one which is when i was 16 working on my turbo 626 i reached behind the engine to hook something up and sliced my arm open. that cut was about 7.5 or so inches long and about 1/8in deep. still have the scar but its gotten smaller. and then 2 years after that when i built my lt1 volvo my ignition coil was not secured and fell as the car was running so i grabbed it to put it back and sent who knows how many volts through my body and it left me with no use of my right arm(im right handed) for 3 weeks and i walked with a limp with a lazy eye and a slight slur... fun times. when i was 14 i had a butter knife go through my thumb trynna change a big tire, and 5weeks ago i had a 3/4 combo wrench cut the other thumb while unbolting a m22 from the bell housing.

I try not to post in threads that might just revolve around what I do for a living. However IMHO, I would stray away from an alum block, although they are great on weight savings aluminum moves a lot more than iron does and the more movement in the block the less it will seal which in turn means more power loss. The alum vortec blocks cant take much of a bore unlike the iron 5.3 and 4.8 can be bored to ls1 specs. Ls7 i would stay away from due to the Siamese cylinders and thin walls (well for boost they are too thin) Ls3 blocks are nice for boost along with most any other ls block. just be cautious of vortec alum blocks.

i just wanted to give you guys a thumbs up on your floors and frame rails. I am using either 18 or 20g if i use 20 im gonna bead roll it, and i have 2x3 that i am making my frame rails from as they are actually gonna run through the floor so that you only see an inch or less under the car. nice work guys. also Justin if you get floor made keep us posted please.

i have thought about the swap myself, however IMHO if i could get a true SVO stang for $600 and it is not rusted to death or crashed up i would keep the car as a whole and build that car oppose to swapping the engine into a z31

i just realized something. looking at how the engine mounts up. that actually appears to be a chevy style mount. ill bet that a chevy motor mount will fit right on there. the ford mount should have a hole going downward at an angle for the stud from the ford engine mount to fit into.

chris i noticed that also. and i was wondering if the 1.25 and 2.25 are revised mounts.

set of cheap aftermarket alum heads machined for a 400 (i just happen to have a set i need to get rid of brand new. casting but ill sell them assembled just PM me.) good intake, good cam( PM me about the cam too). and if possible bore it and put a set of forged pistons in it. but a good cam and a better set of heads will make you happy with the right intake can carb combo

you should expect condensation. and it's not gonna disappear that quick. it takes a few oil changes to clear out water. however i can understand your reservations with it. if its a good enough deal get the heads checked out after you get it. or look for something that has not been sitting as long in the mountains as long. you can hit me on aim if you want to further talk about it.

sounds like a good starting point. i work in an engine shop doing mostly high end and somewhat budget performance builds. forget what people might say. the 400 is not really a bad starting point. if you think its too good to pass up then go for it. you will have fun with it and most important you want to stay within your budget. every buck saved can go to some nice goodies as extras. plus you can build a nice 434ci stroker out of it.

you should be able to use the energy suspension 4.6 swap mounts. i myself am building a 351 z. i might have to join you guys on this quest. i am fabricating everything myself though.

i'm doing the same swap but building a 421windsor with 5spd. as far as the hydro clutch goes. quartermaster can hook you up with a setup for that

so id like to stay within the rules but i was wondering if i would be allowed to discuss a dyno day meet at my shop for the mid atlantic people who live in the MD,DC,VA area or are willing to travel.. i would just like to stay within the rules so if its against the rules id like to know. also what section am i suppose to post in. i hate when threads are moved so i would like to make sure i do it right so that it stays stationary

what tail lights are those and did you do a custom tail panel from sheet metal? i am planning to do circle tails in my s30 as we speak. just gettin finalize how i want it to look in the end, and looking for ideas on a good source for the circle lights.

OBD2 GM gehicles are a good source. the main reason i say obd2 is because i dont remember what year GM started with the weather connectors. some stuff you might want to source new though.

any updates on more detailed pix and info on your awsome rear end install?