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Datsun660z

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Posts posted by Datsun660z

  1. I am running a 30 over SBC 400 and my idle sux. I am looking for advice on a cam I could switch in for driving on the street to get a good to fair idle. I am running 76 cc S/R torquer heads from World. Speed Pro Hyper pistons with .100 dome Current Cam is * Advertised duration: 300 intake/300 exhaust * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 246 intake/246 exhaust * Gross valve lift: .515 in. intake/.515 in. exhaust * Lobe separation: 108 degrees. Toped off With 3/4" raised Plenum Weiand Team G Intake With A Holley 4160 750 vac secondary carb. I will keep this cam for Playing But I would like to use somthing for just playing on the street Thank you All. Jon

    malebitchslap.gif

  2. Ok this is what I need to ask. I am changing from the stealth intake to a Holley street

    dominator single plane intake for (hopefully) more horse power. and at the same time

    I am going to delete the valve cover breathers (to messy for me) and go with a PCV

    but I can't remember where at the carb it hooks up. (Holley 3310-s 750cfm)

     

    So My Question is What do I hook this dohicky hose thingy to?

     

    Thank You

    Jon Peterson

     

    SBC 406 = Datsun 660-Z

  3. Hi welcome to the forum

     

    Any of the things the others have suggested may be your trouble. I know from my own

    experience that if the electrical system lacks (voltage or current) good continuity to the coil it will idle just

    fine but when you get on it, it will fall flat on its face. I just finished installing a SBC 406

    in my 1976 280z (660z) and the wire that went to the coil was too small I ran that wire to

    a relay that I added to the fire wall then a 12 gauge wire from the battery to the relay

    from the relay to the coil and that cured my problems, so get your electrical figured out

    and you just might have a car that will scare you.

     

    Good luck Jon Peterson icon_smile.gif

     

    [ August 08, 2001: Message edited by: Datsun660Z ]

  4. Ok this is my question.

    I have a set of wheels and tires that only have about 4000 miles on them I bought them for my 86 Volkswagen Jetta that I haven't driven in 1.5 years. They are 17 x 7.5 with dual lug pattern of 4 on 100 mm and 4 on 4.5"

    they have the typical honduh offset of 40 mm. tires are 205/40/17 BF Goodrich Euro TA's.

    I think they will fit the car (1976 660z) with 3/4's of an inch spacers in the front and 1/2 of an inch spacers in the rear if im wrong let me know "please". The problem I've

    run into is the wheel studs of course they are to short and I live in a hick town of only 53000 people all rednecks of course and I cant find any one of them in parts stores

    smart enough to help me find studs as long as I need. I have herd mention of ARP studs here at HYBRIDZ and have used the search engine but cant find the size I need or a source. So Please with all the knowledge here I think

    you all will help me. Thank You All.

    icon_confused.gif

     

    [ August 07, 2001: Message edited by: Datsun660Z ]

  5. quote:

    Originally posted by Dean570z:

    660:

    I'm a little late jumping in here, hope you keep reading this subject. I guess you need to define slow. My 76 280z Chevy 350/700R4 combo is set up basically the same as yours, however from the listing above you are running more compression than I. Back in '94, I ran a 12.0 quarter at the old Wilmington Calif drag strip. It has a lot more miles on it now and the engine is tired, but it will still allow you to feel the back of the seat on acceleration. These are plenty fast for street machines.

     

    W. Dean Byers

    Quartz Hill, Calif

    570z since '93

     

    Yes Im STIIL reading everything posted on this wonderfull site. I just want to THANK EVERYBODY that has posted to my messages THANK YOU.

    Jon Peterson

    W7BLU@yahoo.com

  6. quote:

    Originally posted by needwaymorespeed:

    how about some mopre info on that holley water injection?? is it an old unit or brand new-ie are they making them now and how is it controlled?

    thanks

    Curtis

     

    icon_sad.gif Sorry it is a unit from Holley that they no longer make Mine is new and unused in the box and I don't know how it works yet I havent broken the seal on the box to read the instructions. when i get to the point that I install the injection in the car I will share the information with you but in the mean time I don't want to lose any thing out of the box. Thank You Jon Peterson W7BLU@yahoo.com

  7. quote:

    As for actual hp/ET expectations-need more info; car weight, rear gears, tire size, what heads are you actually using/has your engine builder (or have you) determined what

    your final compression ratio "Static-comp.Ratio" will be?

    Here you go Kevin Shasteen. icon_biggrin.gif The weight of the car should be about 2925 pounds. From what I can figur out the rear gears are 3.70:1 Tires on the street will be 205 40 17" at the track they will be

    205 60 14". The heads are Trick Flow 23 degree aluminum 64cc chambers 2.02 and 1.60 valves 195cc intake runners. And the compression ratio is 12.3:1 Thank You Jon Peterson w7blu@yahoo.com

  8. I was told today by a guy with a 1999 Ford Mustang that my car engine combo will be slow Im just wondering if he is jealous

    or am I nuts? as I've stated in an earlier post that my engine is a Chevy small block 400 but I didn't mention any Specs. Well it

    is board 30 over it has .150 domed hypereutectic pistons from Sterling, the heads are " icon_redface.gif Cast iron Not icon_redface.gif " I dont know why I typed that. They Are ALUMINUM. 64 cc's with 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves, the cam is a Crane 100072 With 284 advertised duration 112 degree lobe separation and lift is 480 at the valves with a 1.5 rocker arm ratio, the crank is 3.75 inch stroke forged 400 sbc crank, 5.7 inch Rods, The Intake manifold Is a Weiand Stealth, The carburetor is a Holley 3310-s 750 CFM dual feed single pump with vacuum secondaries. I sure hope this engine runs well. I also ended up buying a B&M 700R4 Transmission with stage 2 shifting instead of using my B&M TH-350

    "Sold That One Quick". Thank You for any input. Allmost forgot to metion the car. 1976 Datsun 280-Z No rust AT ALL.

     

    Jon Peterson icon_confused.gifW7blu@yahoo.com

     

    [ April 30, 2001: Message edited by: Datsun660Z ]

     

    [ May 01, 2001: Message edited by: Datsun660Z ]

     

    [ May 02, 2001: Message edited by: Datsun660Z ]

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