driftz240

instant torque, my 48v motor should put out 400 ft lbs torque with the batterys seriesed properly, and our battery tech says we can keep throwing voltage to the motor and it will keep multiplying till it melts the motor...hehehe 1000 ft lbs tq is not difficult to get he says.

I am a forklift mechanic and i have been collecting parts for a while for the swap into somthing, i have a 36v and a 48 volt drive motor for forklifts sitting at my shop, and i am serious about the swap, not into my z but whatever i can find thats cool, just a few questions about the potentiometer set up and the drive train, 1. are you using a scr panel or some kind of box to control the motor, or just streight up contactors/ speed pot, how do you control the smoothness of the motor for around town cruising? 2.are you using a clutch or when you lift off the throttle does the electric motor speed match the gearbox and a clutch is not needed?

I HAVE A WORKING TACH . YEAAAAAAY The 10k 1/4 resistor trick worked awesome.... http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Wiring_a_Silvertop_RB20DET_into_an_R31 use the wiring diagram under the tach section....worked for me, i bought a 29$ 2 1/2 dia tach from Oriley auto parts and some 10k 1/4 wt resistors for 1$ "5 resistors" at radio shack. sure beats a 150$ skyline dash, and hours modifying that to work. i tried it to the stock 240 tach and it went ape ♥♥♥♥, obiously way off...so you have to use a aftermarket tach. problem solved.

how can a 4cyl 240sx tach work with a 6 cyl rb? how did you do that?

ive thought of using a gm hei 4 module to run it also, maybe it would covnvert the signal to somthing usable...worst case i buy a apexi safc and keep it on the tach setting.

keep me posted, i found a thread on a r31 rb20det swap, it said use a 10k resistor between the ecu power and tach signal and it will work. but im not so sure about splicing a tach signal into exc power, sounds like it would cause bad things to happen to the ecu...

i have a rb20det and im trying to install a aftermarket tach, i know the tach signal wire off the ecu or dash harness is where to pick up the signal, but it will not work a tach, i have heard alot of ways that are saposed to work, ive never installed a tach on a distributorless ign system, they sell coil on plug adapters made by msd, but im not sure if they will work eigher. anyone have a aftermarket tach working on there rb20?

thats is the best way, i couldent bring up the pic, so i cant see what he was thinking about geting, but you are correct, get the style mentioned by rz

adam post this on expectingmothers.com also i think its the only site you havent posted it on yet. lol haha yeah that z is awesome...lol

i dont think your really going to want to yank the hand brake in an autox. but i would go with the 5/8, the 3/4 will be really hard to pull, you can get them really cheap from dune buggy shops, usually about 100$, most of them have no means of actually holding your car on a hill, there designed to fall back flat when your not using them. so you better buy some chalks also.

so do i even need it, i have no radio... all out racer im wondering if i have somthing wrong with my constants or some programing issues.

mobys write up "ms install" says to install a condenser from the coil + to the base of the dizzy. what kind of condenser "stock?" and can someone explain why i need this? maybe i have a bad condenser, will this stop it from getting spark....

Well ms1 is installed and i figured out why i am not getting spark, i dont have the proper code telling f-idle wire to trigger the coil. so i have been going step by step trying to reflash the proper code, as per a friends write up, and what he and his brother used on there z with same 280zxt swap and same ms1 system. for some reason when i try to install the boot header jumper "paper clip" it starts going threw a bunch of code and says .....waiting and on 2 of the lines it says ...error, and will not load the new code. whats up with this? i have ms1 v2.2 i have noticed that on the board itself the 2 holes for the boot harness do not look like they touch anything, one is just empty hole, the other looks like it has a line going to a diode or cap or somthing. but in my opinion looks like there is no reason to jumper the board to a empty hole that has nothing that looks to carry current anyware. im confused, maybe somthing is wrong with the board. anyone have problems flashing the inital code into the board. a buddy emailed me an artical that was on hybridz "i think he wrote" that had a step by step how to flash the code in the board. any other atricals on here, i cant seem to even find the one he wrote on here.

i like it, my personal opinion. i like stretched tires and neg camber. i wouldent have put it that low, i bet he drags that exhaust on everyhting.

where do i set up to use fidle as a trigger? i must be missing somthing