hoov100
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Posts posted by hoov100
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Yeah, been without a Z for about 4 years now, Picking this 71 up tomorrow for $500.....
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Personally, I would take a VG over just about any toyota engine (aside from the diesels) Now as far as saying which is better, well that's just a matter of money. As far as the plenums being a restriction, yes they are huge issue that is VERY overlooked on the VG's thankfully custom plenums are a bit easier to fab up then a set of custom heads and would probably net a good amount of extra power as well as increase intake velocity compared to any stock lower plenum. But we are not here to get into a urinating competition about something as frivolous as who has the better motor, we are here to compare an 87 supra to a z31. (although I really think choosing the 84 to compare is a bad choice) I would say with some minor mods the z would actually hold itself together pretty good, but there is no comparing a modified car against a stock one..
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Hate to bring up the past but I have both a z31 turbo and an sr powered s13...... both mostly stock and vg kills big time. buying the vg= free, buying the sr alone cost more than building a proper 400whp vg.....unless you get a killer deal when when the p.o.s. Ka blows up.. *cough cough*
The cost of the motor or swap itself was not a factor in the debate. I still stand by my statement that the SR dollar for dollar is easier to get 300WHP out of then the vg30et. (doing it correctly)
I love the VG, but dollar for dollar the SR with it's vast aftermarket support will win a dollar-WHP contest to a point. (up to about 300WHP, then the SR will start running into problems with a stock longblock)
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We got the motor where we actually want it the other day, but to our demise we have to cut the factory body brace
so we will be rebuilding it and will get her in there. I have to still rewire the car and do a couple little odds and ends. Pics when I remember to post them! -
Search, also be sure to have budget bigger then you think it will take to build the motor. Also read through the head cooling stickies.
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Please tell me you didn't put ATF in that trans.
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No need to power the heater if you have a wood stove like cygnus and I do.
Until your wood supply runs out and you have to tunnel through the snow to get to the wood.
I love wood burning stoves, until you run out of wood and it's colder then hell outside. -
If I had snow like that and I knew it would stay like that for a while, I would seriously hollow some of it out and use it as a refrigerator/freezer and unplug the fridge to make up for the power to run the heater.
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wow it was cold today, high is just below 60!! I actually had to wear a long sleeve shirt today!
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NO THIS HAS NEVER BEEN DONE BEFORE! NEITHER HAS PROPERLY SPEC'ING A CARB FOR A CUSTOM BLOWTHROUGH SETUP. THE SEARCH FUNCTION DOESN'T EXIST ALSO.......
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65* and sunny with a light breeze here in palm springs!
I miss snow, rain and a thing called seasons. All it does is get cold for a few months and maybe an inch or two or rain and it's right back into 120* dry heat.
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lol, set that motor back just a wee bit to far....(it's coming forward about 8 inches though)
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With how cheap ls1 donors are getting, I would say $4-6k for a complete lower mileage ls1/t56 combo.
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Try taking a pick or something and bending the little ears of the connector pins inward to create a better and more secure connection,
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have you tried tightening the oil pan bolts?
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Ok ok guys no need to argue lol anyways i got it kinda mounted and im leaving it shroudless for now. I just got a question thought. What rating thermostat should i use? im not sure what rating is in there now. Thanks again for all the help guys
160*
As for the needing an entire shroud debate, I do agree with the point Bjhines is trying to make, but it's just useless nitpicking of the cooling system. Regardless if half the radiator has a shroud, or if the entire radiator has a shroud, all of those little tubes all end up going to the same place and out the same hose. so what if a small amount of radiator surface area isn't covered by a shroud, as long as the fan pulls enough air to lower the coolant temp enough so that when it mixes with the rest of the coolant the temp doesn't rise a consider amount and still in the nominal range, then there isn't a problem.
You can nit pick it all you want, but if it's not going to show any real world noticeable effects, then it's useless to argue them. If it works, it works. Who cares how it's done.
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why not?
2jz is tons more power, way more practical to work on, and hey it's a 2jz.
reasons why to not do it?
d
The engine alone weighs almost 200 POUNDS more then the vg30, the trans weighs about 100 or so pounds more then the nissan trans and you would be adding alot more weight to an already front heavy car.
You would have to find a way to wedge a strait six into and already short engine bay
you would spend more time fixing toyota engineering mistakes then actually driving the car
toyota transmissions are VERY weak
anything 2jz is going to be VERY expensive compared to vg parts and will usually not be in stock
2jz's can't take much abuse in stock form compared to a vg30
You would have to spend almost twice the amount of money in mods to get on the same level of a VG pushing a measly 400WHP.
2jz heads need ALOT of work to flow decently compared to a vg.
No need for meth injection to keep the motor intact with the VG30
VG30 is easier to work on and diagnose once you figure out how the system works
The vg30 is already in the car and doesn't require custom engine mount/exhaust/intake/wiring/oil pan...etc
(these are only a few off the top of my head)
Fix your car and get it running good, then boost it up and go slay some supra's at the drag strip.
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It's most likely aluminum/iron shavings from someone trying to cure a coolant loss problem.
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Theres actually three series of PTU's, the series 2 ones do fail but are not as common and the series 3 ones I have yet to have or see one fail. I've got a PTU harness and a series 3 PTU I'll let you borrow if you pay shipping.
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The big concern here is money, I can go to the junkyard and buy a big box of connectors for $5. I know this isn't the best way to do it, but its what I gotta do for the time being.
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I know the word "best" goes down like a fart in church around here, but for those of us who have built wiring harnesses from scratch what do you think is the best donor vehicle for weatherpack/deutsch/metripack...etc type connectors at the junkyard? I am building yet another wiring harness for a couple race cars and a couple street cars and need a few connectors.
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Why not just convert the lt1 to a carb setup if you can't get the EFI system to work?
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Ok then a padded rollbar is fine right? I was also thinking of welding in a couple of bars to the rollbar to protect from side impact.
If it's behind you when the seat it fully reclined.
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well if you pad up the roll cage real well wouldnt you think that it would offer an even softer impact than the interior panels? I would assume at least a rollbar is a must because either way you cant realy hit your head on it as long as it is behind the seats, probly better to pad it up anyway though.
No, roll cage padding is to reduce the impact while wearing a helmet and you would be amazed at just how far you actually move in a wreck, even while tied completely down in a seat,
My motto is "the safest car is the one on jack stands in the garage"
so we will be rebuilding it and will get her in there. I have to still rewire the car and do a couple little odds and ends. Pics when I remember to post them!
I love wood burning stoves, until you run out of wood and it's colder then hell outside.
vg33et 240z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Well, motor is running, car is driving. I dont know what shape the fuel system is in so its running out of a gas can. Found out it has a 71A 5 speed and the car is more or less untouched. Gotta bleed the brakes some more then it can drive across town to the shop!