240zphilly
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Posts posted by 240zphilly
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Pallnet, sent you a PM regarding order details
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Ive always run the intake out in front of the rad or in the wheel well for this purpose, I didnt know the science behind it other than that it seemed like a good idea.
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What a bad ass build! I wanted to go watch the pikes peak race this year so bad but i had a bunch of conflict at work! Saw a bunch of awesome cars cruising tejon, looks like alot of fun.
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Some great pics and details in here! Also good to know about the oil pan... something i would have bumped my head on along the way.
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Coming along nicely! Post pics of the new stance with the coils!
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Im gonna assume KUROMORI is chromoly 41 series steel? How much is one of those things in 6 point form? Is that yen?
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Honestly I would have gone with a precision piece only because on3's reputation for customer service when and if something is wrong with products is sub-par. Check out LS1tech for testimonials (on3 is a sponsor of that forum and disregards half of the complaints there) as far as piping and routing... I will tell you how I intended doing it on a budget:
First, get a turbo kit from a site like Ponydown designed for a 351w in a fox mustang like this, for example: http://ponydown.com/newcatalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35&products_id=95
Next get ls header flanges here: http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/108589/CSP2385
Put them together and whaddya get? bippity boppit WHOOOSH
Obviously nothing there is gonna be a PERFECT fit, but everything will be close enough to fit with a little heat and a BFH.
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I found out they were made by a company called JDS (japan datsun service) and come in four and five lug variants. Sets originally all came staggered however over the years of mix and match there may be some out there that arent. Would be very cool to run a set on a 280 someday (i cant bring myself to own a z31)
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Check the badging, 300zx special edition wheels and the kamenari kit(?)..
Kind of bringing back the dead here but the more I look at them the sexier I think those wheels are! any specs, info, got some for sale?
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Get the universal four lugs with spacing for a fox body mustang... works every time.
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Ultimately the weight goal is just free speed, putting the car on a diet will make the car faster. However the alternative to being lighter is making more power. Or both lighter and more powerful, I guess thats the real goal. Those bumpers save the car, not your life, so I've never had issue with removing them... Really I have always opted for the type 2 msa font on some self made mounts a-la home depot (saves atleast 50 lbs) and the rear low speed collision shocks are heavy pieces too but i always leave the bumper skin on for cosmetics. As far as door skins are concerned thats really in the eye of the beholder, its a chance I have taken in the past but probably wont on this particular car. Im not as young and resilient as I used to be.
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Sittin pretty.... how does it ride with all that weight down there.
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This is going to be another little side project of mine once I get back from the desert. bumpers and supports are heavy, I also intended on removing all the wiring from the car and re-doing only what I need, namely lights and my aftermarket computer. A previous owner already removed the a/c and heating systems from the car so thats weight off my shoulders. Perhaps you could run a lightweight driveshaft and flywheel? Lighter wheels and tires? smaller more efficient battery? Ounces add up to pounds. cut excess metal out of the inner doors, behind the seats, wheel wells, there are some skid plates under the car that could get cut out of there. Theres always a little more fat to be trimmed.....
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Nice swap car... I remember back in the days where people would just let us tow away their 280zx turbo lawn ornaments.... or give them 1 or 200 bucks for the privilege of throwing a battery in it, starting it up and driving it away.
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Alfa owners accept catastrophic component failures as the searing pain that goes with owning The Marque...
A certain metallica song comes to mind.... sad but true?
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I grew up working at a shop in my teens that was primarily a mustangs/ ford place... of which there are many in my hometown. We charged the most (by far) for labor and seldom gave people besides friends and long time clients a break on parts cost. The owner was very specific on why. "We charge more because we don't **** shit up." Also, I don't remember a single instance where we installed a part from somewhere else. Everything had installation error warranties and manufacturer's parts longevity warranties and the only people who ever left unhappy were just butthurt because we wouldnt install some junkyard part or ebay BS on their car. Flat out refused. To this day it's just about the only shop left of its kind from its time in the area and I think its in no small part due to that philosophy.
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thats a very unrevealing teaser! kudos on the new wheels...
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Replied. Any other heads out there? looking for a good solid core with or without valvetrain that will stand up to some modifications.
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As the topic states, I am in the market for a P90 head with solid lifters, as I understand it, there are some P90a's with solid lifters also... This would also work fine. Please let me know what you've got available, I am located in the Colorado Springs area (if you're local) but I am not afraid to pay for shipping.
Thanks in advance,
Phil
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Good to know, I've seen his ads on ebay and perused his website but havent bought anything from him as of yet. Will keep him in mind though.
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Are those chrome ROH's on that mustang?
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What an adventure! If you're still wanting some stock turbo stuff in november, I'll be back in Miami and the car will be apart... Hit me up and remind me and we can work something out, maybe trade something if you got some cool parts.
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Sounds great... celebratory burnout video? What does the butt-dyno tell you? Making good power I hope.
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My first thought was exactly as Mateo found: generally as corrosion builds, the performance starts suffering at the top of the rpm range and eventually gets to the point where most people drive...then they notice it and start looking (usually evidenced as posts of "My Z won't rev above XXXX rpms under load, but when I check it in the driveway by hand I can redline it."
My 82 was doing this. Disconnected battery. Disconnected ECU connectors. Cleaned connections with vinegar and baking soda, then rinsed with water. Then cleaned with electric cleaner. Let dry over night with a lamp projected on the connectors to make sure they were dry. Applied dielectric grease to the connector. Then she ran past 4krpms, still stuttered a little around 4500 rpms but would go through it. Pulled spark plugs regapped from 1.0mm to 0.98mm. Now it runs right through pulls hard at 10psi till 5500rpm
Thanks both, Im not sure how comfortable I am using water on the connections... I dont have a lamp or a garage to assure that it dries properly. Is there some other substance that would not potentially mess up the connector any further that I could use?
What does your zx weigh? And whats removed?
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
2880 no driver, full tank of gas, bone stock plus intercooler, tools, and spare parts (thats my race weight)