Jump to content
HybridZ

bryan01

Members
  • Posts

    206
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    mitseclps

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    South Carolina

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

bryan01's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

10

Reputation

  1. We'll have to get together though, I might have some compainion flanges for you... If you see a spare r230 lsd text me, I may go that route to get the car back on the road quickly when I get back
  2. Steve? I seem to remember tony i-can-tig-weld-anything smith talking about a buddy of his into z's as well, is this you? Thank you so much for detailed reply!, I'll walk thru it this evening "Take it off any sweet jumps?" Thats what i was imagining i might need, but it seems a bit excessive. I mean i've got some tq, but not THAT much. It seems that would only be needed for rock crawlers and the like, but maybe not. Is this normal for higher tq guys to have to do things simiar to this? It seems to be masking my issue of hopping down the track, but once that is fixed <how?>, if the case is still considered too weak and a failure point then i'll still have to do something... trade out for the flat r200 longnose cover? I'm not looking forward to having to beef it up like that. Shupee! ... The car doesnt hop on the street, it spins the tires (again, the same dot slicks) ... Your silver one is a 280z right? Isnt that a lot heavier and have a much stiffer chassis? Maybe that has something to do with it? I won't be back til the end of august, i'll let you know
  3. i guess the first step is to check the setting next time i'm back in town, what shocks do you recommend above 250? but i'll look into it, thanks
  4. I've got a spare open r200, assuming the gears are ok i can either use that cover or if there are other issues with this case now i can swap the carrier, but i'll let you know how it goes... i'm was debating on switching to an r230 setup ... still weighing the pros/cons
  5. nix - this happened a few weeks ago at the greer track ... are you in SC?
  6. i haven't pulled the diff yet, it was litterally hanging from the front mount mount, still attached to the cradle, so i'm assuming it's not cracked, otherwise it would no longer be supported up front ... i would have to check to be 1oo% sure thou, i *guess* the diff could be just resting up front and against the driverside halfshaft, which *is* currently sitting on the passenger side rcla... but from what i remember it was still attached, twisting the cradle down, meaning the front mount is still instact
  7. wow, that's interesting, thanks for the info, i'll check it out, let me know if you find it first... maybe switching back to the solid cover will hold it in the future, assuming i can stop the wicked wheel hop
  8. front mount is the simple solid arizona z mount, rear mount is poly bushed alum t3 mustache bar
  9. http://ziptiedz.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/r2oo-lsd-ripped-apart.html <--blog link for more description and pictures i've got a 240z with an RB. She's got an r200 lsd from a z31 300zxt, 280zxt halfshafts, the old style welded modern motorsports companion flanges, and 240z stub axles. The entire rear end was replaced with techno toy tuning RCLA's, drop mounts, cross bar, mustache bar, 3/4" swaybar, gc coil over kit, sectioned housings, 400# springs in the rear, all new poly bushings, and 5way tokico's. i'm running under 400 wtq with hoosier r6 dot slicks, 255's/45's in the rear on 9.5/17's. it seems that the pretty finned differential cover failed, causing the diff and associated halfshafts to slam into the pretty adjustable RCLA's, taco'ing the entire suspension, shifting everything foward, finally pulling the driver's side shaft out of socket, and then out of the diff. i *think* it's ultimately because of the massive amount of wheelhop i was experiencing during the run. first of all, do you think this reasoning makes sence as far as root cause? I initially thought the shaft or stub axle broke first as the 240z stubs are the smallest of the options (i do have 280 stubs ready to go in, but i'd need new flanges etc, it was on the list that seems to have grown) and the shafts would be the next in line as far as weak links, but the shaft seems to be in one piece, maybe slightly bent. I haven't pulled the stub yet thou, it may be bent via eyeballing it, but the wheel is still solidly attached to the car, not even wobbley while being towed at 5mph or so by the track support atv. that and the RCLA's bent forward, not inward, causing me to believe it was the diff that went first. secondly, if the above is correct, how do you prevent wheelhop without moving suspension points and building in anti-squat? I did some digging and to let you know, I *think* the tokico's were set on the stiffest settings, but i would have to go back and verify (won't be able to for a while as i'm traveling). I know I always joke about it, but would wider /stickier tires help with the car being as light, or as un-stiff, as it may be (it's stripped down to 2 seats and a steering wheel)? What I have seems to work on the street OK, but based on what happened, the tires were probably loosing traction on the street during boost and instead hopped on the track because of more than adequate track prep. As a side note, the chassis has no body stiffening, and i *think* this may have added to the wheelhop. I'm imagining a floppy chassis driving down the track like a wet noodle with 4x more torque than it was designed for. Would strengthening (over-frame rails, rear connectors, half or whole cage etc) make a difference with the lack of squat, traction, or amt of hop? I'm afraid of getting a flat cover for the r200, replaceing everything that was potato-chipped, and having the same wheelhop cause ... Help.... Thanks
  10. rawr first start vid dyno 28o z rb25 dyno vid bam.
  11. i've got a stock q45 tb if you want it, can ship tomorrow, whatever the going rate is, pm me
  12. fuel tank pickups, braided lines/-an fittings, filter/pump mountings xmas planning hoarding, all aeroquip starlite lines and socketless fittings, -8 an aeromotive a1ooo fpr fuel tank removal stock vent hoses in trunk underside one strap two strap off spill out messy night fuel tank inside one oem off general idea, walbro 255 hp and summit 1o m FI filter pickup before trimming bulkheads -an lines teaser fuel tank inside two back to fuel pickups installing new pickup with bulkhead -an fittings without cutting an access port difficult and time consuming but amazingly clean results. bulkheads filter, pump, 2x walbro mounting kits, note flow directions lines assembled fuel tank outside new fill hose it looks worse than it is carefully remove vent adapter seal all connections with rtv new grommets on -an vent hoses sneak peak of rear tire clearances back to fuel old v new rtv utters -8, -1o, -12 respectively run front vent line thru sub frame fuel level sender again, rtv everything fitting to connect soft return, saving main hardlines, fuel rail, and fpr mods for later
  13. Rota Grid's, 17x9 front, 17x9.5 rear, et+12 as said above, you will NEED fender rollings, coilovers, camberplates, possibly adjustable control arms, but not necessarily stretching although it might help. I also have brake upgrades which change the location of the mounting flange from OEM. The fronts hit the spring coilover when first installed, but they fit great with a hubcentric/wheelcentric 1o mm spacer because I did not have adjustable LCA's at the time. you can get the same affect by adjusting the LCA's out a bit, but this will cause more camber as well, so there's a limit. if you don't want it to touch lock to lock you'll also need to scallop the pinch weld where the lower fender well meets the engine frame rail, i'm going to do this soon and will post info. the rears will touch the lower adjustable pearch if you don't have 8" springs that are short enough to clear and give a low ride height. for kicks i just got them all around. my coilovers are adjusted very high in the back so that the pearch sits ABOVE the tire. I also sectioned my housings for short throw shocks. my tires are not stretched, they fit well, snugly on the rim so to speak. i've got 245 in the front, 255 in the rear, but they are r-comp's which i've been told run about 1o mm larger than normal. I'm still working through the fender rolling bit, there is some rubbing in the rear when the car squats during hard acceleration. I'm confirming, adjusting, and thinking about even stiffer springs but they're 35o/4oo# already. 240z/rb blog
  14. full rear suspension by techno toy tuning second half twilight zone diff removed, suspension columns ready spindle pin fell right out! (with a bit of convincing) second one was another story, as it usually is should have known when i saw the lack of bushing and so it begins but the center section DID NOT hammer out take a break. originally the baby press did not work (12T) man-up press did not work either (20T) do it your damn self approach weakening the mushrooming effect by drilling the spindle pin, or at least directing it inward the 12T press worked in the end using a socket and a few extensions finishing inner hole about 1/2", 2" deep, taking the entire set of drill bits and an extra evening late night success clean up. living room antics yes, back in the living room greasing bushings helper. techno toy tuning is amazing, they marked the high/low sides of the bore not matched example matched example more grease assembly won't seat yet because the bushing actually seals with the block holding air, took vice to squeeze out cleaning squeaky antiseize, copper assembled with washers, measured to center wheel, or at least symmetric to the other side. x2, even replaced ebrake hardware outside again i love this shot close ups new spindle bolts greased poly bushings all new hardware yup, still not getting old rear top hat options short and not so short one more time before install old v new old v new installed, but the mount was actually backwards (facing forward), long story mustache bar spacer break. can't stop taking suspension pictures short top hats and springs installed close up 4oo #'s in the rear STOP IT before during after approved. gel locktite. installed. painted. and finned. suspension lift drop mounts first (but don't tighten the bolts all the way until ALL bushings are aligned and bolts started) ready for lift put big id washers on top of mustache bar bushings, ask me how i know they're different push into position align studs front solid diff mount correctly positioned rearward this time assembly together, without halfshafts 28o zxt cv halfshafts not where they're supposed to be lowered columns, which incidentally clear fenders without unbolting inner RLCA bushings back together dogbone above finned lsd cover cleaned RLCA inner bushing bolts wow. bedtime. coil threading ZERO droop adjusting coils ALL the way up. back on all four's and yes, that's the maximum number of images you can insert into a single reply on HZ
×
×
  • Create New...