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specialk

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Posts posted by specialk

  1. First off, very sorry to hear about your loss. I'm not much for participation in this board, so can't say that I've had dealings with him, but the loss of a family member is always tough. My condolences to you and your family.

     

    Second, if you post some information about the car, we can probably help. My son goes to school there, so I visit with some frequency, it might be a good way to get the word spread about the car.

     

    Again, sorry for your loss.

  2. You have a geometry problem. With X inches of pedal travel, you need Y inches of cable travel. In the post from grumpyvette, the first item he lists (the bellcrank) will almost certainly provide your solution, essentially 'multiplying' X by Z to give you Y.

     

    A little hint, replace the roller with the bellcrank, put the cable coming from the pedal in a hole close to the pivot and the cable from the bellcrank to the carb far from the pivot.

  3. linkage is all internal. you won't know what's up until you get it off (the tranny) and take it apart.

     

    The good news is that the tranny's really aren't that hard to find. So, if it runs well and looks good (very little rust/denting/damage/etc) it's probably still worth it.

     

    You can check too (crawl underneath) and see if the problem is the clutch engagement/disengagement as this is a hydraulic clutch system (pretty easy to see look underneath on the passenger side just inside the back of the front tire.

     

    Look at the online feild service manual for the car (search here to find out where to download that from)

  4. I looked and looked and looked and never really got an acceptable answer to the resistance wire questions.

     

    I put a serpentine system on an sbc, utilizing a generic wiring harness. The CS130 has S F L P connections, with the S being the big red wire :) and (IIRC) F & L being used for non-resistance/resistance respectively connections.

     

    Is that correct or do I need a 75 ohm/3 watt resistor in the L line?

  5. Note that your cam is a 110 LSA and John suggests 106.

     

    Note that you're only talking 9 thousands of a second improvement to make your mark and (IIRC) every 100lbs can be 1 tenth of a second. At that area, assuming everything else you do is correct every time, eating a smaller meal or going to the bathroom before the race could be the difference :)

     

    Seriously though, if you can find 50 lbs (hood and/or passenger seat?) you should easily pass the number.

  6. For $3500, I would look at the 350ci/330hp crate from gm performance parts (just because you'll get the warranty). As far as the 700r4, you can get a reasonably priced version (that will take pretty good HP) for ~$1500 (see bowtieoverdrives.com).

     

    As far as the rear end, I won't pretend to have a reasonable answer to that, I can only suggest more searching :)

     

    Good luck (and thanks for your service)

  7. While alot of what you say is true, you need to decide what your "Free Time" is worth. If you spent 100 hours of your time parting out that car and you got the drivetrain you needed for free then how much did your drivetrain actually cost you?

     

    Figure out how much your free time is worth to you. I figure mine like this:

     

    Hypothetically, If I get paid $25 an hour at work then my free time has to be worth at least twice that amount.

     

    So at $50 an hour for 100 hours that comes out to $5000 for your drive train. Could you have bought it for less? If so, maybe it was not worth it. Could you have saved up the $5000 to buy it? If so, how long would it have taken you to save up $5000 to buy it? What would you have had to sacrifice to use that $5000 for the purchase? Would you have had to work extra hours to save the money? Or maybe taken on a part time job?

     

    As a counterpoint to the 'how much is my time worth' I would contend that my free time is worth $0/hr. Why? Because this is a hobby where I'm not supposed to make money. If I wasn't doing this, I'd be doing something else that cost money. I could fish, hunt, m'cycle, golf, etc., etc., all of which cost money every time I do them (some of them more than others).

     

    To carry that a step farther, let's say I got a part time job to pay for the drivetrain. Let's say I get paid $10/hr. First off, I wouldn't have as much free time (which, as you will recall, is worth $50/hr). So, by working, I'm losing $40/hr. Yes, I'm being facetious, but it was fun.

     

    Anyway, I've thought about the PT job to pay for toys/hobbies and always decided that I'd rather wait, dicker, barter, etc. But, to each his/her own.

  8. i was doing some research on the symptoms of a bent valve. The backfire, sounds like like a harley inside the car, and a loss of power....sounds pretty much like what i have. any idea on an estimate how much this will cost me? :cry2: :cry2: it still drives decent, sounds loud, boosts decent, takes a while for rpms to get up.....i really don't want to have to fix something like this...but i have to cause i love this car....what am i looking at?

     

    If you have a bent valve, the cylinder with the bent valve will have very little (to no) compression. Get a compression tester (~$20 HF) and test it. If every one of them measures ~150psi (or more), you're good to go.

     

    It's an involved job, removal of the front timing covers and t-belt, intake plenum and manifold, as well as the head with the offending valve. Remove the bent valve, install a new valve, check for deflection (<8/1000") - if too much, new valve guide. At minimum the new valve must be lapped in, better to get a 3angle valve job.

     

    Installation is the reverse of disassembly :)

  9. It's really not hard to do a HG on a z31. You might want to look into the cost and labor of simply replacing the gasket, and sticking with the engine you have. I dont see it taking more time or money than swapping that Maxima VG30E. Keep in mind the work required in messing with that auto trans, exhaust manifolds (always rusted stuck) and swapping all your z31 VG30E parts over to the Maxima VG30E. Unless something is wrong with your VG30E i say use it.

    Build up the maxima engine on the side with the require z31 parts, fresh paint, new gaskets, water pump, timing belt/tensioner, cams, a turbo, whatever else and swap in reliable performance in the future.

     

    Just my .02

    -Mike

     

    Just bear in mind Mike, the exhaust manifolds do have to come off when you do a HG, they don't when you do a swap :)

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