ktm
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Posts posted by ktm
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Thanks! I thought I recognized the name bidding. The buyer already contacted me, but the sale is not complete until the funds are transferred.
For those curious, the car "sold" at $19k.
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Don't know yet, my wife was asking the same question. I am done with Zs for now, but am thinking of doing an electric conversion of some sort. I don't know yet.
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The time has come to sell my car and I have listed it on Bring A Trailer. The auction is NOW LIVE at the following link: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-88/
Spread the word if you know people who are looking for such a swap.
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I can only talk about street use. I bought a B&M oil cooler when I was doing my build 8 years ago.....and never installed it. It the car is for street use, you will not need one. A good radiator with the appropriate frontal area blockage will keep the engine very cool. All I did was block the large holes in the core support save for where my CAI enters from the passenger side. I never see anything over 190 degrees unless I am in stop and go traffic.
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What trackzpeed stated. I am using the JCI kit with my 4L60E and the mount is, quite honestly, simple. It is a bar that runs through the transmount with holes on either side. You drill through the floor pans and then use the two plates that come with the kit (that have bolts/allthread) welded to them.
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JCI's kit is tried and tested. No welding, all bolt-in, and there are numerous installs using it. I don't believe that the JCI kit allows the use of the recent long tube headers, but unless you are at the point where you are chasing EVERY LAST HORSEPOWER, the shorties from JTR are more than fine.
With that said, the Hybridz mantra is still in effect......there is no best.
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When I was running 245/50s I had to trim the spring perch just a tad to allow clearance (the tires came with the wheels from a Hybridz member). With my 245/45s and the stiffer sidewall, I do not have the tire bulge and probably would not have had to trim the perch.
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Although s30 wear seventeen's very well, the suspension is crucial. It really relies on the tire profile to help absorb all the smaller bumps. I'm got fairly stiff sidewall tires, then with a standard ToKico spring setup my Z crashes over bumps.
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Correct. The coilovers are what allowed him to run 275s along with a higher positive offset wheel. Everything else (wheel offset, 5 lug conversion, etc.) just plays with the effective offset.
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Mine is mounted on the firewall right at the passenger's feet. I have my supplemental EFI power center (ancillary fuse box, relays, etc.) right above it where others mount their PCM. I was able to use the stock GM harness in this location as well.
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Correct, 16x8 +10. The whole issue of stuffing more tire under your car is more than just tire width. Even Clifton had the same issue with his car. It is a combination of tire width, the tire itself (they are not all the same), and wheel specs.
A 16x8 +0 will not support 245's without flares. Granted, I am running +10mm spacers in the front (which makes mine +0 effectively) for brake clearance, but the rears won't work. Clifton was running higher positive offset wheels to stuff 275s without flares. You can't push the wheel out, you need to suck it back by running higher positive offset wheels.
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I am running 245/45 R16 Bridgestone Potenza RE11s on my car. I do not have fender flares and I have stock (well, Tokico springs) suspension. I also have an LS1 with 370 gears.
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A bit late, but something like these? They were selling from a vendor in the Phillipines for like $80 a pair.
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Smart man, doing it off the car. When I first installed my WC kit, I thought it was only going to take me a few hours to do both sides......8 hours and many puncture wounds later I had them installed.
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I reused the stock harness for the engine. I had already rewired my car for FI from a previous swap, so I only need to connect hot and ignition hot wires for the most part. Then again, I am very comfortable with car wiring so it was very easy for me.
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I did not have an issue with my L28ET and the ST bars using the stock setup. I would venture a guess that something is not right with the engine mounts or end links.
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Your descriptions are far too generic. I've run a 245/50 on 16x8 +10 wheels with similar shocks and struts as you without flares. If you are going flares but not coil overs, you can run a wider tire/wheel combo but you will need the right offset. There is just not enough information to guide you in the right direction. The picture below is on 245/45s with the same 16x8 wheels.
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There really aren't too many S30s around, though I know of around 5 in my area that I see periodically. Too bad you are 50 miles west of me, I could meet up with you for a beer.
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I had noticed that later 280z's have an oil pressure with two male blades configured in a T. Does anyone have drawing of the internals? If it is a simple ground contact, then that may be as simple as wiring the ground side of a relay directly into one of those terminals. It can't be that simple.
I need something to kill the electric pump in event of an accident.
G
TonyD has talked about a Ford inertia switch a few times. Upon impact, it will kill the fuel pump. A quick Google brings up quite a few results.
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I missed this thread; I've been out of town the past couple weeks and busier than hell with work.
C&C is all over the place now. The gran' daddy of them all closed last December and a plethora of them opened up all over the place. The reincarnation of the original is held at the OC Fair Grounds every Saturday morning. There are also other C&C's around such as Laguna Niguel (heard that one is quite nice), Corona (at Saleen's headquarters - its ok), and a few other places. I would not worry about hitting any of the C&C's - the original was fantastic during its run and the startups, while interesting, just do not draw the diversity of the original.
Check out this site and their calendar of car events:
http://www.socalcarculture.com/
http://www.socalcarculture.com/events.html
Have fun!
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You need to be a donating member to post in the classifieds. It does not cost much to donate, you are making money from the being able to post them here, and it goes to site/server maintenance.
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Understood. If you look at my setup, my gauges are upside down. This way the viewable angle presents the operating range.
I like the industrial look so I used SS socket caps to mount the panel.
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http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/86127-my-speedhut-gauge-install/
Same concept. I did not need the controls or light but did need a radio.
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In addition to what Keith said, I would definitely replace the water pump. My LS1 had similar mileage and was fine for the first year. Year 2 and the water pump started leaking. The part is relatively inexpensive and it is far easier to change on the stand.
I would also look at the knock sensors and possibly the seals around them. One of mine became fouled with oil. Again, easier to change with the engine on the stand.
Valve cover gasket. Chances are it is weeping.
Oil pan gasket. Again, chances are it is weeping as well. I just replaced mine on the car. It is much easier to do on an engine stand.
You may need a new alternator if the P/S pump/reservoir was leaking. Mine was and it is located directly over the alternator.
That is all that I can think of at the moment.
Long time, No SEZ - (Old Timers SEZ Shootout Roll Call) - just for kicks
in Non Tech Board
Posted · Edited by ktm
I periodically check in to see what's up. I agree with Derek about the death of forums like Hybridz. This place has/had a wealth of knowledge and incredibly helpful members.
Sold my Z a few years back and recently entered the P-car world.