Miles

Terry I used the Camaro WC T5 trans and tilted Camaro bell housing to avoid making a tilted trans mount. I used the MSA engine and trans mounts without having to make any modifications. I had to trim the shifter hole on the driver's side to clear the shifter and used a B&M shifter designed for the T5. The B&M shifter is angled to compensate for the tilted trans. The setup uses a stock Camaro T5 clutch slave and a master cylinder from a Ford pickup (uses the same roll pin hose connector as the Camaro slave). The hydraulic hose is also from a Ford pickup. Using this set up was easy and I have had no problems since installation last year. The most critical aspect is getting the trans and diff angles right to avoid driveline vibrations. You will also need to swap in a R200 differential from a 78 280 Z to handle the V8. If you have any questions email me. You can also see pics of the trans mount on my photo site. Miles

Thanks for the input. I think I'll just buy a diff from the local Nissan recycle yard. They go for about $100-$125 here in Sacramento. Thanks Miles

Solved the problem. Took top off of the carb and found bits of rubber hose in the drivers side needle valve seat screen. Floats were out of adjustment too causing the engine to stall in high speed turns and stops. After adjusting the floats the engine no longer stalls. Miles

I installed an Edelbrock performer 1406 on my 350 sbc engine one year ago. It ran well until this week. Recently the engine started stalling while cruising. The engine sputters a few times and then quits. After letting the car sit for five minutes the engine will start and run a few miles and then sputter and stop. I removed the air cleaner and worked the throttle and did not see any gas spray into the carb. Then I let the electric fuel pump run for about two minutes and then worked the throttle observing fuel spray into the carb. The engine stalls on hard braking and high speed turns. I just replaced the fuel pump thinking my old pump was dying and causing the stalling problem. The new pump didn't help. I now suspect that this my be a float problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Miles

For Dan: I like your throttle linkage. What throttle cable and firewall bracket did you use? I can't see in the picture what cable bracket you used on the carb end. Do you have a photo of the whole setup? Thanks Miles

Recently my L6 pulses or surges. It is most noticable when holding in first or second gear. At first I thought it might be a brake shoe dragging as I just put new shoes, cylinders and drums on the rear. What would cause the engine to surge? Thanks Miles

Per JTR book I removed the rear sway bar. Tire size is 225/60/14. Thanks Miles

Just installed new springs 180 lbs/in front and 225 lbs/in rear with new Tokico performance shocks in our 350 sbc 240Z. When taking a corner at high speed the rear wheels hop to the outside of the turn. Is this a weight distribution problem or are the rear springs too stiff? The car rides really well otherwise. I also have a problem with the rear wheels locking on hard braking. Installing a proportioning valve helped with the wheel lock up. Thanks Miles

I just installed an Autometer gas gauge (for Ford) in my 72 240Z. Before I installed the gauge I bench tested it with a new sending unit using a 9 volt battery and the gauge would go from empty to 3/4 full as I moved the sending unit float from empty to full positions. Once installed in the car the gauge only goes to about 1/4 when the tank is full. I assume I installed the sending unit correctly as the base of the unit has an alignment notch that aligns with a tab on the tank. I also visually checked that the float moved vertically brfore I locked the unit in place. As I recall I need to add some resisters. I don't have an ohm meter so what would be good starting values for the resisters? Thanks Miles

I experimented with both the double hacksaw blade and rotory cutting wheel after wraping the steal braid with duct tape. Both methods worked well. Has anyone tried bolt cutters? we are reinstalling the fuel tank in my son's 72 Z and I'll be replacing the line from the tank to the electric fuel pump with a stainless braided line. I am confident now that I can install the stainless line neatly cut using either a cutting wheel or hacksaw. Thanks again for your input. Miles

Overfill of gear lube makes sense. The problem seems to have gone away. The gear lube got onto the exhaust pipe and left some burnt oil stains. I'll be more careful next time I change the gearlube. Also, the plastic pipe that goes into the vent hole broke off so I may try to work some tubing into the hole and route it so it drains to the ground. Thanks Miles

thanks for the info. Miles

There is a vent hole on top of the R200 differential. What would cause gear lube to be blown out of the vent hole? Thanks Miles

what tool works best for cutting stainless steel braided fuel line? I tried an abrasive cutting wheel and a hack saw but both tools made a mess out of the stainless braid. Thanks Miles

What works best to clean a fuel tank? I am sure my 30 year old 240Z tank has some rust etc. Thanks Miles

Steve I am sealing all of the unneeded lines. For ventilation I drilled a small hole in the gas cap (cap removed from car). With just the lines plugged there have been no problems. I just want to get rid if all of the stock fuel lines that leak fumes and fuel when the tank is filled all the way. I still don't see an easy way to disconnect and reconnect the filler hose to the tank. So I may have to figure a way to cap the lines with the tank in the car. Thanks Miles

Jeromio Did you ever get the filler hose reconnected? I wonder if the whole filler hose could come out of the fender as an assembly. Miles

I am going to remove the fuel tank from a 72 240Z to close off tubes that are no longer needed. Are there any problems with removing and reconnecting the filler hose? It looks like it may be hard to get to. I am going to install a new fuel gauge sending unit while I have the tank out. I noted on the new sending unit that the electrical parts of the sending unit are all open and exposed inside the gas tank. Seems like they should be in a sealed unit. Thanks Miles

Dan My 72 240Z brakes act just like yours. So I checked the brake power booster with a Mityvac vacume gauge. I pumped up a good vacume and it held with no leak down. I still suspect that there is air getting into the lines somewhere in my brake system. The only parts I have not replaced is the switch (distribution block) under the MC and the power brake booster. I still can not get a firm pedal. Let us know how you get this resolved. Also, is your check valve between the carb and the power booster in place and working? Mine is missing and I wonder if that could contribute to brake pedal problem. Good Luck Miles

Thank you Grumpyvette: You saved me about $50.00 and several hours under the car. I thought I had a blown timing cover seal or front pan seal due to an pool of oil collecting under the fuel pump blockplate and on the cross member on the passenger side. We really noticed it while driving on the freeway with no hood. Oil was spraying back onto the windshield. I checked for the bolts on the front of the engine block near the the fuel pump and sure enough there were no bolts and the holes go all the way through the block. At high RPM oil would blow out of the empty bolt holes. I installed two bolts in the offending holes and there are no more oil leaks!!! Miles

I agree with the valve seals after doing a vacume gauge check. I am debating taking the heads to a shop for rebuild or buying a set of performance heads. It's always something. Gas take started leaking at the vent line so it will take priority for now. Anyone out there have any problems with the removing/attaching the filler hose when the tank is removed? Thanks Miles

Tim I'll pull the plugs and check for water. I only see the smoke when it first fires up. Thanks Miles

Recently my 350 sbc belches white smoke on start up. Is this caused by a rich carb or oil getting into the cylinders? It doesn't smoke once the car is moving or pulling away from a stop. Thanks Miles

Mike I actually did find that the previous owner had installed a 280 rear strut on the driver's side. To compensate for the difference in strut length he installed spring lifters on the side with the shorter 240 strut. I caught it when I rebuilt the rear brakes last Feb. So I went the bone yard and bought a 240Z rear strut for $75.00. No problems so far. I will measure the front struts to make sure they didn't get mixed up too. I have had to undo just about everything the previous owner did to the car. I was much more careful on the second 240Z I bought for future V8 conversion. Everything on the car still works. thanks Miles

chelle I had a clunk in my stock 72 Z that I finally traced down to the nut on the right stub axle. I took the car to a garage where some serious torque could be applied to the stub axle nut. No more clunk. Good Luck Miles