KunoZ

Didn’t think 280Z/ZX's ECU's were reprogrammable. Not sure on the reason why just so I was told. I do know the Z31 ECU’s are though. The 88-89 Z31 ECU w/nistune is a good alternative for the L28 as well.

If your on a REAL budget you can pick up an old intercooler from a volvo, like you said, get some exhuast pipe and last some random radiator hose's from your local parts store for your bends. Most def gonna be cheap. Just dont run a crap ton of boost with it and should be good. Seen it done to a friend of mines and worked fine with no trouble for years.

Freon, if you’re talking about R-12, is def compatible with R-134a. It's just the old mineral that it is not compatible with. Your condenser, evaporator, and the rest of the system are good for the use of R-134a, just that the condenser needs drained (if nothing comes out when tilted up its good) and the compressor. Also the accumulator or A/C drier needs replaced anytime the system is open. The only thing you need to really worry about when retro fitting old R-12 systems is the amount of R-134a you put in. Should be a label to how much refrigerant you should put in. When charging the system, the R134a charge will be 10% less than the R12 charge. As, for pressure testing the condenser it's really up to you. Depending on how well the condition of it, it should be checked. If it is badly dented, scourged, or cracked I would pressure test it. Some would just put it on and put a vacuum on the system with a vacuum pump or machine, just depends on you really. Your evaporator is good. If you feel the need to you can drain it, but wouldn’t think anything would really come out. Your best bet if you don’t know much about A/C systems is just have the shop do it. They have the equipment to do it right and it not all leak out. Just ask for them to put dye in it just in case the refrigerant leaks all out you can see where the leak comes from. Also it is illegal to work on any automotive A/C system without being ASE certified, but really who does get caught by the EPA?! LOL! FYI Im not trying to be rude in any way just a lot of people get misinformed or misinterpreted with Freon and R12. Freon is a brand of refrigerant made by DuPont and R12 is the old refrigerant that was essentially phased out. But in all regards I hope I helped. Good day!

So, we have both determined that it is definitely burning oil, due to the oil on ALL the plugs and the grey/white smoke. The white smoke could be due to a lean mixture since there is no evidence of water in the oil, like you said. Also if the mixture of oil is heavy enough it can burn just white smoke, but like I said it has to be pretty heavy, which in your case it sounds like it. Just in case if you can do a simple check, remove one of the spark plugs (preferably #6 cylinder) and the radiator cap. Turn the engine over slowly by hand with a rachet at the crank pulley and hold your thumb over the spark plug hole until you get pressure out. Connect an air line snuggly to the spark plug hole and see if air bubbles or antifreeze comes out of the radiator fill cap. Simple check if you have an air compressor that is. If no fluid is pushed out or no bubbles we can rule out that it is burning antifreeze. But anyways, how many miles does this engine have if you know? My concern is that maybe the previous owner of the engine may have ran it dry without oil or the engine is just plain worn out. Good day and good luck!

Sounds like your head is warped. Theres no other place for the coolant to come through other than the cylinder wall or through the head, but as you said the compression is good and runs good too, so that eliminates any hole in a cylinder wall and leaves you with the head. You also mentioned that the smoke is mostly white/grey, the white which is technically steam and or coolant and the grey is oil, both cirulate through the head. Smell your exhaust as well, if the smell is sweet then its def coolant. An engine can still run good if it has a leaking head gasket and from my knowledge even still have good compression. What I would do in your case, is pull the head, have it milled or A.K.A. resurfaced by a machine shop, install a good quality head gasket and go from there. Should def solve your problem. Its hard to tell how the previous owner maintained the engine if it came from the junk yard. Could have overheated it pretty bad and in turn warp your head. Although I've seen these engines run pretty hot and still not warp or blow a head gasket, but nothing is unbreakable though. Hope I helped and if anybody else that has some insight it is appreciated.

I think growing the mullet is a task in itself my friend! HA!

Check out crawford Z in Nashville. Pretty good place! They specialize in Z cars so you should have no problem geting your engine put back together. From what I have heard they are very good at what they do. They host a the middle tennessee club also. Here's the link to crawford My link

Changing the shocks out shouldn't have done anything. All shocks do is contol the rebound of the springs. But I do think that 19762802+2 is correct. Maybe you do have the coupe springs and it may also be possible that you have the springs in the wrong places. The ones for the rear should be a little taller than the ones for the front. Wouldnt know unless you took them completely off though.

I'd get brand new injector connectors if I were you. Swapping out old used ones could just cause more problems down the road. You can pick up an entire set for around $14.00-$20.00 on ebay so they arent that expensive. It's where I picked up my set and they worked perfect. Now as for the issue with your car is, check for a vacuum leak. Rubber on these old cars can be pretty dry rotted. Also, check your ignition timing out if you can. Maybe you bumped the distributor while replacing the A/C compressor. Check the connection to the AFM too. Take it off and inspect it. Hope I helped.

There are no fitment issue's because they are the same size, if not a little bit smaller, than the filament type bulb's.

Also just a little side note from personal experience, I'd suggest using the 45-LED Tower Type. The LED type that has LED's on the side and top, that way it reflects light off the mirror inside the tail light just like a bulb, otherwise your just going to have a small circle coming out of the tail light. Kind of hard to see, but unlees of course if that's waht your going for though. Hell, they might even be able to be picked up at your local parts store.

As for removing the drive shaft flange it is easy, just you need a puller set to get it off. A simple steering wheel puller at your local parts store should do the trick and a 27MM socket for the nut if I do believe, an impact would be highly encouraged. And as for your half shaft flanges they'll just pop right out. Stick a crow bar between the flange and diff. Not sure on the bolt pattern, if they are the u-joint type they will be four. I know the 280ZXT CV's are 6. I dont think the Z31 axles are the same length, they are a bit longer. Hope I helped. Good to help out another fellow Airman.

Hey guys hooping some one out here in the HybridZ world can help me out. Im looking for at the minimum one door lock and matching key. It would be great if I could find the entire lock set (both left and right door locks, rear hatch lock, gas cap and igntion switch w/keys), but beggers cant be choosers. Thanks guys for the help!! Good day!

Also pull the intake hose off going to the to turbo and see if the compressor wheel isnt damaged. May have accidently droped something in it while doing the swap and chewed the compressor wheel up. Just a guess.

Just put the 88SS R200VLSD in my 83' ZX. I had to kind of merge two axles together or in other words I had to find a either a late 94, 95, or 96 Infiniti J30 differential for the stub axles and J30 axles them selves. I took the ends off the J30 axles and put them on my ZXT axles and put the stub axles in and just bolted right. Kind of alot of work but it pays off though. Heres the site that I got all my info from. http://www.88hybrid.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=87755&sid=a4ea4180b8efd1370218379f5c2311a2 Just scroll on down to Part II about the axles and you'll see what Im talking about. But Part I talks about taking the guts out of a short nose R200V and putting them in a long nose R200 too if thats what your interested in. Hope I helped!