Challenger
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Posts posted by Challenger
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I actually bought a turbo off ebay that had similar damage. I dont know what caused it the guy said it was on a running ZX, my only guess would be debris. With them spinning that fast almost anything can cause damage I assume.
I ran a piece of panty hose through mine with no damage, must have been something tougher than that. haha
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Thats the only one I have, not around the car to take pictures.
I havent spent alot of time on it but I am having issues with controlling my boost, it is creeping way above what the spring says it should. I dont know if its another problem, who knows.
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The Datsun won.
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Print it all out and tape it together. Get a highlighter and mark the lines relating to the turn signals, trace everything back to a power source or ground. From there with either the voltmeter or continuity check to make sure there isn't a cut wire, corroded connection, etc. following the wiring diagram is just about impossible on a computer, it's hard enough even on paper.
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Sorry man, hoping everything works out. I had my first accident a year ago, it sucks.
Doesn't the insurance cover medical? If you have physical therapy bills you should have them covered by the auto insurance.
Don't neglect your injury. Cars can be fixed, necks are harder.
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Sorry, Double post.
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Get the fsm manual wiring diagram, it helped me figure out my lights.
Do you have a multimeter? The 6 pin connector that goes to the combination switch grounds two different wires to a single power wire. Doesn't matter if it's clean if it's broken, makes sure its actually making connections.
Same with the hazard switch. When it is off there are two wires on its plugs that allow the blinkers to work. That has to be closed or it won't work.
http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html
Look at where power and grounds come from and work backwards. Be meticulous on tracing wires and you will find the problem easily.
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Some of them. I just right clicked on the indicators at the bottom of the screen while you are synced up to megasquirt. You can change it to read other stuff and it looked like the specific errors changed. Haven't completely fixed it yet.
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Positive crank ventilation. Thats the opening on your valve cover and right behind the distributor opening. If oil is spraying out that could be burning on the manifold.
Also, how does your oil look? Do you have an oil temperature gauge?
I was gonna make a neener neener comment since I just graduated from college sunday but, I will refrain. haha
Good luck!
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Ive got 12.7V to megasquirt in boost. What was wrong with the alternator wiring for you?
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How is your PCV set up?
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Hot air is heating my cabin through the shifter hole and I have a headache. haha.
Need the above.
A black shifter knob. Nothing extravagant.
Thanks
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Its just the spring of the waste gate and the air line going to the manifold.
No leaks that I am aware of. Ill check though.
Ill check the boost gauge for leaks.
Ill try to get some good pictures.
Downpipe, you can see where the exit to the wastegate is.
Welded to the original turbo manifold is one of these. Wastegate bolts directly to the adaptor below and the downpipe.
Hard to see but here it is. As I mentioned, the port on the far side of the wastegate diaphram is open to atmosphere and the near side goes directly to the manifold.
This is from a run I just did, again I wasnt full throttle so I dont know how accurate it is but it went up to about 8+ psi and held till I left off. Seems like it was bouncing around 8 psi so I hope that is the waste gate opening.
Green is MAP and red is TP.
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So I have a HX35w on my L28et, Tial 38mm with a yellow large spring which is supposedly 10psi based on equal intake and exhaust pressures, I have a boost gauge inside the car as well as datalogs of runs with megasquirt. I just welded the original internal gate closed.
I had a few times where I have had my boost go up to 20 psi, according to my boost gauge and MAP sensor. Almost anytime I get on the throttle the boost gauge goes crazy and jumps all over the place. Generally between 0-10 psi. I went back to see my datalog and it shows the MAP to be smooth. How much filtering is done on the MAP sensor? Fluctuations like this dont seem normal, is there a possibility that my gauge is just messed up and resonating or something like that? Both MAP sensor and gauge are both coming off of the manifold.
I cant say for sure if the wastegate is opening because I am generally watching the gauge as I apply the throttle in an effort to keep it in the 10psi range. Im gonna do some more testing today to try and figure that out though. It has its air line going to the manifold as well. The top of the wastegate is just left open to atmospheric.
In the past I have had a couple times where the boost gauge came up steady and held but that was a while back and I havent got it to do it since. Im gonna try to get it to do it again today.
Also, although my car isnt tuned well yet it seems like its way faster to slowly lay into the throttle than just go to full throttle.. I kind of remember something like this on my ZX originally but is that normal or just my engine not running correctly? Again Ill have to go test it some more but if my memory is correct its been way faster when the boost holds consistent on the gauge, the times where its all over the place it doesnt pull well.
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Considering a single OEM horn is $97-$110 retail at a Nissan dealer, depending on the horn, although likely unavailable, I don't see how $15 is a lot of money? Unless you left out a zero on the end.
Then again, the stock horns sound pathetic and I can't imagine why, other than originality, you'd want new OEM ones. I had planned on going Hella, they sound pretty decent.
Because I paid $4.35 for two Z31 horns that are very loud and sound pretty good. I say $20 saved factoring in some gas is pretty good.
Either way, the Z31 84-88 horns are the same. I liked the 88 connector better so I grabbed those. They have a small sheet metal bracket that makes them perfect for the stock location on the S30. I had to splice into the wiring (12V side, other wire can just go to a good ground as long as the horn case is grounded) to put on the new connector but other than that it was all bolt on. Im very happy with them.
Specs on the 84-88 horns are 12V, 3.5A, 110dB.
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This picture makes me want to go cut up the rear end of my car... haha. Good looking project!
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I do not think those in any way fit the lines of the ZX. I think a more square body color mirror is what looks good. Do you have power mirrors or the little cable adjuster type?
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Alright, got the registered version of tuner studio and megalog viewer. Nice package.
So it was pretty cool to watch it change VE values as I went... so much better than the trial and error method.
Do I still leave EGO correction on while running VE analyze? Should it be the 5% or so while doing the autotune? I think I have it at 6% now.
Im still working with it but I did notice the AFRs were not matching up exactly when just sitting and idling. Seems like it was half an AFR or so off, is that close enough?
Working on getting organized as well. Saving my tunes as I go and making notes in the same folder for each iteration and what was changed and where it came from (eg. Tune1.3 comes from Tune1.2, etc)
Im getting to the point where I can "safely" get into boost, or so I think. Ill have to restrain myself some, I got up to about 9 psi or so with good AFRs... it felt like a rocket ship! haha
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Mine is ford dark shadow grey. See sig.
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More information = better.
I got the rear quest studs if I remember right, I think I just tapped them in and it went perfectly. If your having to smash them in theres is a problem as you have found out.
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Check out the 2+2 thread. There was a member that modified the roof line. I dont know if doing what you want will look good. I think you need the quarter windows how they are to keep the car proportional.
The doors are longer, the rocker behind the door is longer (obviously) and the rear fenders behind the wheel is different.
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This showed up once I upgraded to the paid version of tuner studio.. Seems like everything is still working with the gauges but Im just curious what it means. Also SET ECU is now checked, I dont know what that means. I went through and detected the ECU again and everything went perfectly.
Still shows this error.
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I don't think the autos had it. I had a 74 2+2 and was gonna sell the diff but it wasn't a 3.36. Pretty sure it was an auto , but either way, not all of them are 3.36.
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280ZX Turbo Exhaust Manifold
in Parts Wanted
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81-83 Turbo exhaust manifold, no cracks... Thanks!
Derek