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milesz

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Posts posted by milesz

  1. I have a 73 240z installed Eibach lowering springs front and rear.  Now the exhaust is so low, it less than an inch (+/-) from the ground. I was thinking about putting back the original rear springs in the rear. I have duel exhaust. Is there anyway I can increase the height in the rear using the lowering springs?  Anyone else had this problem and what was your solution?

     

    Thanks in advance

    rear.jpg

    rear1.jpg

    rear.jpg

  2. 6 hours ago, NewZed said:

     

    Like calZ said it's probably your "spacers".  You don't have a steering wheel problem, you have a wheel problem.  Very dangerous, especially on the front.

     

    Maybe you have some of these but haven't machined the I.D.  Don't even know why this guy sells them that way, kind of cheap and unsafe.

     

    https://zcardepot.com/products/wheel-spacer-pair-front-rear-240z-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=4da58f7ef&_ss=r

    Thanks NewZed for your reply.  I'm now looking for a reputable company to buy them.  Do you know where I can get them, plug and play?

     

    Thanks

  3. On 6/10/2021 at 5:39 AM, JQADDINGMACHINE said:

    Nope. didn't need any shims with the viper TOB to LS7 clutch and flywheel.

     

    I didn't notice your other questions either until now but I just ordered a bellhousing and input shaft by looking them up as a 2001 v8 camaro.

    I just purchase HP Tuners and have no experience turning.  Is there any advice you can give me on tuning for the t56?  I also install a ls6 cam and intake.  Can you share your tuning files that would be great.

  4. I started this journey to fix a steering wheel shack problem above 45 mpg, so I replaced the rack and pinion, all front and rear bushings, tie rod ends, brake calipers, rotors, and ball joints.  After bleeding and re-bleeding the brakes several times, now my brakes are very weak.The pedal is not firm at all.  The pedal wont go all the way to the floor and just before it reaches the floor it stops and the brakes works a little.  I'm not sure if I fixed the shaking problem, but I have to fix this problem.  Any advice?

  5. On 7/15/2020 at 11:40 AM, JQADDINGMACHINE said:

    I used a viper t56 in my datsun. I’m not sure about differences in year (my t56 was out of a 98 viper) but I had to get an ls input shaft and bellhousing. The throw out bearing retainer has the 2 holes clocked differently too, but I think I just reused a viper one because I don’t remember drilling any holes in mine. I used an ls7 clutch kit.

    Did you shim the TOB?

  6. On 4/13/2014 at 10:09 PM, alrighty said:

    It works just like any other reverse lockout prior to gm re-engineering the wheel for really no apparent reason.I used the stock internals minus the solenoid.went to the local hardware store and found the appropriate spring for the right tension,and walla idiot and bullet proof.I am in the process of machining 20 of these if interested.Dont forget that the factory solenoid can actually cause you to have to put a substantial dent in your tunnel  for it to fit.This is 3/4" shorter and requires no dent.

    How much?

  7. 9 hours ago, Daz said:

    I stayed with the Viper mid-plate and hydraulic TOB. I went with a Tilton 75-Series MC(p/n#75-280, 7/8 bore). It fits perfectly in the stock location. 

     

    NOTE: I haven't actually tested this setup out. I had my car running at one point last year but I don't have a driveshaft yet(I would like to hear your input on that. I have a s13 rear subframe with a q45 diff)and decided to switch from turbo to LSA S/C. 

    Do you have any pictures you can share?  What clutch set up did you use? Thanks for the information.

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