bertio

Sized Spacers?

Traded my Motorcycle for it and the PO put $500 on top. Bike was worth 4k so I got it for 3500. Some days when I am working on it I feel like I got screwed. Then somedays I stumble upon something and realise how much time, energy, and money went into it thats why they were selling it for so much. I think they were just trying to break even. Example. THE GOOD Custom coilovers to get it to sit how it does, perfect lowering IMO I havent dragged a speed bump yet. Rims are 17 inch OZ F1 which arent too bad. 17x7.5 or 8. Should make fiting my 17x8.5 RB's pretty easy and getting the ZG flares to fit nicely since the lowering guess work has already been done. Entire underside of the car has been hit with a Rhino line substance. Rust is non existant. Full MSD ignition and timing. Dual weber downdrafts with K&N filters. Electric only full pump. New tank and all hose fittings. Decent seats, hold you well 4 point harness, cheap but its nice Harness bar Body is in amazing shape no dings, Shaved the rear end. New clutch Master and Slave, new Clutch and flywheel rear disc conversion RX7 calipers in the front with Rotors from an EVO 8 new Brake Booster and Master Cylinder Steel braided lines Momo Steering wheel with momo hub originally a auto was converted to manual with 4 speed, hung pedals. all new glass seals, door cards are imaculate, locks all work Speedo and Tach work Flip switches wired to center console for Acc, Fuel pump, and Voltage. Nice Aluminum radiator All Smog stuff was deleted and blocked off. THE BAD Needs bigger BMC Needs floor mats needs new seals on hatch and doors needed new U joints Wheel studs were tacked on the backside so they werent pressed in, causing balancing issues everytime you take off a rim, annoying as hell headlight was blowing fuses, had to do Headlight relay upgrade to fix it. Paint was done in a garage with a gravity gun, looks good but can tell it probably was the first time they had done it. Might need to change out joints in rear axles, get a vibration under hard acceleration even after replacing Ujoints on drive shaft Seats are faded from sun, probably because they are cheap. Heater core leaked so they plugged it off, going to have to fix before winter. Temp sensor works when it wants to. Need to seal some of the breather holes in the back because fumes like to suck into the cab when decelerating Thats all I can really think of and I am thinking hard. So yeah I think I got a good deal The key things are the motor is great, carbs are great, body is straight, dent free and rust free. I could fix the brakes, fix the rim issue and a few other things and drive it as is and be happy as a clam for a while. I am just personally trying to change it back purely for aesthetics.

So... Fuel pump died on me because it was cavitating, had a shop replace it for me and mount it much much lower on the car so that it would not have to suck as much since the electric fuel pumps are meant to push not suck. Shop replaced fuel pump did an awesome job but in the process of putting my car on their lift they must have not had the lift points correctly attached as they cracked my exhaust manifold. Fought them on it as they didnt want to fix it as they said the issue could have been like that when the car came in. Fast forward a month and a very legally binding demand letter and I got them to write me a check for the cost of repairs as well as parts. Took money and bough 6-1 headers from MSA, installed headers myself (much bigger job than I had anticipated) and found out that I had 2 snapped studs and some missing spacers that hold the intake and exhaust together. Put it all together the best I could and drove back from my parents garage in Red Bluff, CA to Chico, CA with open headers. (my head hurt afterwards) Went to local muffler shop and had new exhaust and muffler installed on car from Freeses exhaust. Guy was very cool and let me watch him weld and make everything right in front of me. Took Z to parents house again to try and fix my dim right (as sitting in the car) headlight and could not figure out if it was a ground issue or what (kept blowing fuse and headlight would leech voltage making it dim) found out original owner was very confused with his wiring and so I just left the right headlight unhooked till I could figure out what I was going to do. Did some research and figured the best course of action was to get a headlight relay upgrade and bypass all my old wiring in order to fix the problem. Put that on the back burner and went on a mini vacation with my wife to my parents cabin. Went driving up to the mountains and kept having this whistling noise that I couldnt quite get rid of. Over the course of 2 hours I had a big 4 point deer run out and front of me and hit the side of my car shattering my mirror and sending glass in my wifes face as well as scaring the **** out of me. I pulled over expecting to see the entire right side of my car destroyed, and all that was there was a broken mirror (just the glass) and two tiny dents on my door (these Z's are frickin bullet proof!) Then I hit a big ass rock that made my car sound like crap afterwards. Went home took my car to muffler guy and he showed me where the impact on one of my header pipes had been dented and the shock must have knocked loose the header as the gasket was now blown and the gasket was leaking. Go online get all new stud kits and washer from MSA as well as new gasket, drive back to parents house and install new gasket and new studs and new washers and find out that my intake gasket also was shot which was causing my whistling noise and a very small leak, fixed that and car fires up cold like its new again. Three days later I get pulled over by Local Police for having one headlight out, recieve fix it ticket. Immediately pull the trigger on headlight upgrade from a local guy that surfs on here I believe. His email is wolfin32z@yahoo.com. Went to parents house, installed harness and didnt think it was going to work at all as I couldnt test the output voltage for some reason on my meter. I was also flying a little blind with the wiring colors and having to google a lot of stuff mid way. After everything was crimped it fired right up and worked, Hi, low, everything I was GLOWING with happiness, I didnt know having working headlight, BRIGHT working headlights could make you so happy. Now I am looking at finishing up my wheel issues by buying some 16x8 rota RB's with a neutral offset so I dont have to use such extreme spacers. I heard Nissan Quest studs were the way to go just in case. I am going to be snagging up a set of Rota RB-r Flat Black 16x8 in +4 offset. Eventually I will do ZG flares so I am wondering if that is something I should do all at once or if I can do it in 2 parts. The wheels I currently have are OZ F1 17 inch x I dont know. I will have to see how that is going to work out. I need to get a heater core in my car soon as cold is coming, I also need to finish up the weather stripping and get that car water proof. I am also piecing together new Sugar scoops, and hood (I think I can save the fenders) so I can restore the car back to a proper looking Z. Oh and I also pulled my first tranny today out of a 98 Honda Accord (I am a butte college Honda PACT student) Hurray for me! TLDR: Bunch of stuff happened, it cost money. Looking for Hood and Sugar scoops let me know if you know of any. Also opinions of rim options based upon my current setup, will 16x8 fit until I can save up to do ZG flares or would it be better to do rims, ZG flares all in one go?

Hi guys. Looking to get rid of my snub nosed Z and return it to stock minus bumper, plan on getting an MSA air damn. I am going for an "open nose" I am sure you guys know what I am talking about. So anyways. I am going to need a new hood (mines chopped by 9 inches) Fenders (mine are blended into the bumper) Both headlight buckets and...thats it I think just buy the MSA front Air damn and I will be cooking with gas. Oh and a grill, stock or aftermarket billet? any reccomendation just looking for something to keep the birds out of my radiator. ..and I guess ill need hood hinges etc etc I am thinking more and more towards junk yard (if I can find a 260z) but if you guys know a guy or know a place or have any good things to say about XYZ let me know 8D

Awesome quote, almost as good as "All your base are belong to us."

Although pressing them in is ideal, pulling the hubs would be a HUG headache.

Yeah I ended up getting creative on the front and just griding out a section on the dust shield and was able to get them out. On the rears I have a disc setup so we will see I ended having the wrong studs so I have to reorder and then attempt.

So as it turns out I should have listened to both of you gentlemen and order the .508 studs... Lesson learned. On a side not I found out I have brembo rotors from an Evo 8 that have been machind to 4x114.3 I need to replace them couldnt I just do that with about any rotor if you were going to machine them anyways?

Pshhhh I would be happy with just a 5th gear

That's true. Sounds like fun...I am sure a lot of guys dont want to attend because they feel like their Z isnt finished (when will it ever be?) but thats not what is about I am sure if you brough a newly bought rust bucket you would be welcomed with open arms and a lot of advice (if asked ) I am about to pull the hubs off of my car to install my longer studs so I can true my wheels...WISH ME LUCK!!!

I am using the studs I am because I measured the studs currently on that are too small and they already had a knurl of about .530 that's why I had to move to a stud with a larger knurl. Which also makes me think my hubs aren't stock. I also went with matching 7/16 thread gorilla lugs too. The ARP's I was going to use were .565 (and I am loving the Z you posted )

Just eyeballing it think about how much room you have if you were hit on the drivers side door while driving versus the front or rear or even passenger side door.

So in a previous thread I talked about how I was having issues with my wheels not centering because I was running 25mm spacers with studs that have too small of a knurl so they are not fitted into my hub. Anytime the wheels were taken off it was a PITA to put them back on because the studs wanted to push through the back and you couldnt get a lug started to screw the lug in. So try this 4 times on 4 wheels and things are not going to center up right. So I went to a very very well respected and accomplished Z mechanic Pettersen Motorworks' Steve Pettersen. Steve got down on all fours and took off my wheels, actually measured my current knurls and length and we worked up roughtly what size studs I needed to order. I ended up going with a: Moroso 46160 Wheel Stud Moroso 46160 I had to change my threading to 7/16 due to the only studs I could find that would work with my threads were ARP Subaru WRX studs that came in at $32 for 5. ~~~~~ Should I have any issues with a different threading and size? (12mm vs 7/16 (11.2mm)) I would think not but I am still nervous. (I did get matching lugs) I am thinking that I am going to have a PITA time installing these longer studs because the only way to get them in there would be to pull the hub, which then if not done right you need to replace bearings (and even if done right some say replace anyways) I was going to have a shop press them in but then I would be looking at $600 just to have the hubs pulled. Option 1: Pull the hubs just ever so slightly to get the longer studs in. Option 2: Grind down the studs to a D or I have even seen people make a hole in the back of the Hub to fit the Stud through (I doubt I would do this) Option 3: bend a dust plate or grind down a part of the hub to allow fitment. Option 4: Whatever you guys come up with. I am also having some issues with trying to figure out what came with the car. The PO is a 17 boy who's father seems to have done most of the work so knows very little about what has been done to the car. So far I have a stock (brand new) Booster and BMC (stock which causes issues with the next two things) 4 pot calipers from a 91 RX7 and single pots from a maxima. Rear rotors from an 82 Maxima (I think) and front rotors from an Evo 8 that have been drilled to 4x114.3 (and possibly machined down to fit rx7 calipers) I know that my current studs are much larger than the OEM stud knurl length for a 260z so now I am wondering if the hubs are even stock. What are some Common hub conversions? I guess even if it wasnt common it might already be on my car . List goes as follows. 1.Install Studs 2.upgrade to 15/16 BMC for added pressure for rear disc brakes and larger front calipers, current BMC just cant cut it 3.Replace front rotors with ???? or remachine another set of evo 8's 4.go to a rim that is actually made to fit the car without a 26mm spacer 5.New weather stripping for hatch. 6.Quick Release Hub for added security, right now my car is too easy to start without a key. 7.Install Heater Core in time for Winter. 8.swap front ends with someone who might like my front end better, 9.Repaint car White, either stock white or matte (PROFESSIONAL MATTE not rattlecan matte) 10. Powder coat or paint rims black (either gloss or matte) 11 buy MSA front air dam with brake ducts, ZG flares 12. Source out competition hood scoop. 13. Swap SR20DET motor. 14. Win Lottery. 15. Profit. I AM A MAN WITH A PLAN!!! Attached is inspirational Z porn

Moral of the story... Roll cage and good seats and harness if your worried about safety.

I am not a fan of stack welds. Might want to grind that down and cut a piece of plate and weld that proper. Damn I might have to make a run to San Jose when I do my swap so we can be best friends Lovin the motor keep it up! PICS PICS PICS PICS