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Posts posted by ~KnuckleDuster~

  1. I decided to change out MAF's from the E60 to the slightly newer E61 model and the car is running much smoother. Eliminated a lot of off throttle backfiring.


    Second, I never liked the look of the all chrome heat shield on the air filter. Not going for a show car type of look. I considered painting it black but decided to wrap it with DEI reflect a gold heat material. First researched to make sure it does actually work so I could justify the function which it does. As far as the fashion goes I like it. I finished it off with some rubber welting around the edges. 














  2. Correct power is on both side of STOP bus bar with the fuse removed & ignition in the on position. Makes me think it's a manufacturing issue with the new box. Prior to install I had just drove the car to turn it around in the garage and replaced the fuse box. Never had any real wiring issues before this. The hazards don't work anyway so I'm thinking about just leaving this fuse out completely. I don't like the idea of masking a potential problem but the idea of having to comb through all the wiring under the dash to just have the new fuse box just be the issue is a bit of a turn off. Do you think it's worthy of contacting MSA about it? I guess the only true test would be to put the old fuse box back in and see if there's power to both sides of that fuse..

  3. It's a 73 240z. It's got it's share of wiring modifications for gauges, rb motor misc. I believe I have it isolated to the stop circuit. I don't recall if I had to rotate the connector but the wire colors do somewhat match up..the msa wiring color isn't exact but I double checked that I didn't have it reversed, the plug will only go on one way as well. The stop circuit has constant 12v power on the left side of the fuse bus as it should, with the key to ON there is 12v power to both sides of the fuse is this normal or am I getting two 12v inputs into the same circuit? I'm going to mess with it some more today, might put the old box back in to see if it goes away. MSA doesn't offer returns on electrical equipment so I really hope the issue isn't with the new box.

  4. Hey guys, so I just upgraded my fuse box to the MSA modernized unit. When I put the battery cables back on the engine electronics and fuel pump kick on as if going to accessory power. If I remove the 20a STOP fuse I can put the cables on and the key will operate the acc power as usual. Any ideas on what can be going on here?


    Edit: I originally upgraded the box because the parking lamp fuse block was starting to melt out.





  5. 9 hours ago, winstonusmc said:

    Reflowing the solder on the MAF is a common thing on those. It happens from the MAF not being bolted and flopping around. It stresses the connector and cracks the solder joints.

    I was hoping to find a loose solder joint on any of the three connector points but they all appear solid with a screwdriver wiggle test. I suppose their could be hairline cracks still. I'm thinking all the corrosion isn't good for it, even the board has an odd residue on it.

  6. 5 hours ago, Neverdone said:

    Car looks stunning! Congrats on not selling it! Now continue to not sell it.


    Make more videos.

    Haha thank you. Your feedback is much appreciated, definitely helps keep me motivated. I've been slacking on the video making because the car has been down on power for a while now and when I have time with the car it's been troubleshooting and tuning. I just can't seem to get to the bottom of it. Just recently the car developed a hot start issue followed by power cut during hard acceleration in 5th gear and progressing down into 3rd. It's got all the symptoms of a bad/leaky injector(s) so the injectors & rail are being sent out to DeatschWerks for their Dynamic Injector Service & Fuel Rail Service. Hopefully my next post is reporting the car is running 110%..fingers crossed.

  7. They have two guys working there is the problem. I live a few miles away, have gone there in person with some ideas on some work I'd like to do on my RB and exchanged a couple emails but in the end communication drops off and they just don't seem interested. I believe they get swamped with motor swaps which yields them the most $ and everything else gets put on the back burner.

  8. I also had to re-install the rear passenger fender flare. Previous owner had installed this one a bit lower than the other side. This was always playing tricks on me when I was adjusting the ride height, the car itself would be level but the right rear would always appear lower. Now the suspension height to wheel gap is just about spot on, I could even lower the rear a pinch now but I kind of like it how it is now. Never rubs.








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