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~KnuckleDuster~

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Posts posted by ~KnuckleDuster~

  1. There are some great and cheap panel mount chargers. Biggest thing of all is make sure you get the 2.1 Amp output ones or your I-device will not be happy.....

     

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    I put mine on the side of the console on the passenger side, up front quite far.

    Good to know thanks. That's the style I'm looking at. For an extra few bucks you can get one with a built in volt meter, would come in handy.

     

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  2. Shortly after putting in the new coil pack I started having another performance issue. Car seemed down on power and started running lean. Then finally progressed into hard starting where a throttle blip was necessary to keep her running. So I figured one of the last untouched items on the car should be swapped out, the fuel pump. I bought a Walbro 255 to replace the unknown branded pump that had a date of 2006 stamped on it. When I removed the old one I pulled out a chunk of medal and saw other rusty looking debris inside. I bought a mesh screened fuel filter to go in between the tank and the pump to catch whatever nasty crap still lurks inside my tank. you can open it up and clean it out which is nice.

     

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    Does anyone know what this fuel pump bracket is from?

     

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  3. Picked up a Kamaeri rear strut bar in an attempt to stiffen up this old chassis. Worked well rear end feels much tighter. I attempted the Kameari front bar which was rumored to clear the top mount intake manifold on the RB but it didn't. Ill have to have one made custom or wait and see if I go the ITB route.

     

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    I was on the hunt for a more functional shift knob. The old knob while looking somewhat period correct was from a Datsun 720 pickup truck and was too small in the hand for fast shifting and the hard plastic with a sweaty palm combo was just asking for mis-shifts under pressure. After much searching about I settled on the OEM knob from the last generation 240sx (S15). Perfect fit in the hand and doesn't look aftermarket. I does have an S on it for Silvia but that could be for S30?!? The thread pitch of this knob is unlike most Nissans. I had to find a M10x1.25 to M12x1.25 adapter.

     

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    In the process of putting together a new video with the new header music but it's slow going..

  4. The car had another episode of what seemed to be running on 5 cylinders again. Now that I know what that feels like I suspected another coil pack had kicked the bucket. Check engine light was on and sure enough another coil pack died 20 miles or so after the last one. Figured the 11 year old coils were done for so ordered a whole set of OEM packs. I was considering Splitfires but heard stories of them going out quickly. For an N/A motor I'm sure the Nissan units are just fine.

     

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    Figured this was a good opportunity to finally get rid of the old nasty valve covers. I was anxious to see the condition of the inside of the heads and to my surprise there was zero burnt or or sludge anywhere. It looked brand new inside.

     

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    Looks good with out all that non sense on top..

     

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    All back together. I painted the Neo Sraight 6 lettering silver to match the other lettering.

     

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    Test drove her with the new coil packs and shes feeling better than ever. Sounding nice and healthy too!

  5. Especially if you go ITB. Any MAF computer will not know how to handle open air ITB. Unless you are planning to run the plenum, that would just be silly, JK. I though about running the plenum in the beginning when I had problems with the MS3 not revving, but those days are long gone. Haltech elite 750 is a good option, and isn't too expensive. I know a guy that can hook you up to wire that...

    If and when, I do plan on running the plenum since I've got everything for it already and I can focus on getting that running right before I go all out crazy haha. The company that makes the manifold adapter plate says you won't be able to run VCT with it but there in the process of making an adapter to retain VCT. If I can keep VCT on the car I'll likely go for it. How did you get around this?

  6. I should have made this a main focus a while ago. I wired up the check engine light and installed it in the bezel that used to house the glove box light, the hole was a perfect fit. I then wired the check connect from the consult plug with power wire to the switch in order to get the check engine code sequences and also be able to clear them. It's giving me 1-4 Speed Sensor and 1-1-1 Inhibitor Switch. The speed sensor is no big deal, who wants a 180kph limiter anyway? The inhibitor switch seem to be on the transmission somewhere and this I might want to address but not sure how I'm going to go about it yet, must research more. Glad to know everything on the motor is good to go!

     

  7.  My exhaust header runs so close to the coupler that the endurance of the standard rubber coupler is questional. I'll be waiting for your comments on how it effects driveability.

    That was my concern as well. I took it out for a quick drive around the block and hit some sweepers. When I researched the solid steering coupler what I heard about them was the car will be to twitchy and you will feel more vibrations through the steering wheel. None of this was the case. Overall the steering just feels a little more responsive, in a good way. I didn't notice any extra vibrations through the wheel. Very pleased, more direct steering feel and I never have to replace it. Also on a side note the steering wheel was easier to turn lock to lock while sitting still, so maneuvering around parking lots and such will be easier.

     

    People who complained about the car being "twitchy" may have been running something close to stock tire width. I'm running a 235 so if anything I could use the extra quickness.

  8. A lot of progress being made on ol girl. When doing the header swap I noticed cylinder 3 exhaust port was wet with gas. The intake manifold also had some gas blow by in it as well. So prior to me noticing this I was having issues with the ecu not keeping it's memory which I fixed by wiring the memory wire directly to 12v. This made a noticeable difference but I felt the car run faster than it was and I hadn't been able to track down the issue. I went through all the vac routing and sensors to make sure it was all in the proper places but that made things better but didn't bring that power back which I had felt only a hand full of times after the car was good and warmed up. So I assumed no spark was the culprit and installed a new coil pack on cylinder 3 and BAM, shes running on six cylinders now instead of 5! The car still felt good before but now holy crap can it rip around. The power is instant and pulls hard all the way to redline. So for the first time in 5 years everything's running perfectly and strong which is a milestone for this project. Exhaust note is better than ever too, my goal is next weekend for a video clip.

     

     

    I've been chipping away at getting the gauges all finished up and so far I've got everything installed and wired up with the exception of the tach signal which I'll be tackling in the next few days. I'm in love with the GPS speedo. The features it offers are really fun to play with. As far as the counter clockwise option..love it. It feels totally natural and just takes a quick glance to see how fast your going. Really unique feel to it and I'm super happy I took the chance on it.

     

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    Here's the peak MPH recall feature. Your max mph hit for the drive will be displayed at the bottom and the needle points to the number as well.

     

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    Did a 0-60 run and came up with a 6.2 not too shabby! I should be able to get that into high 5's with a flatter road and not at 2,000ft elevation.

     

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